brian
SILVER Star
you can normally find half a case(5) for $35.
Best oil filter for a 1978 fj40 2F (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Landlover12
- Start date
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77mustard40
SILVER Star
Good choice, Motorcraft FL 1-A, a solid large can filter for a 40. I run the Toyota YZ on the 80.
Assuming more filter = more oil filtered...
Left - not an original equipment oil filter. Denso lists no oil filter for the 2F
Right - aftermarket alternative, 25-micron filtration, it has an anti-drainback valve (unlike the AC Delco one I once used)
Left - not an original equipment oil filter. Denso lists no oil filter for the 2F
Right - aftermarket alternative, 25-micron filtration, it has an anti-drainback valve (unlike the AC Delco one I once used)
- Thread starter
- #24
So what are you thinking that the Toyota one is not good?
It’s fine. Don’t over think this. Get the cheap Toyota filter and be done with it. Better things to waste your mental energy about. It’s a tractor engine not a McLaren.
It works if you question the manufacturer recommendations - because, the manufacturer overthought it, not me, right. Anyone have a Tundra, 4Runner, FJC, etc., and do these Owner's Manuals call for a 40-weight summer viscosity? No, it won't break the 2F, but, how is the smallest oil filter in the group happen to be the best? This thing is dwarfed by the filters that came with F or 2F.
Baldwin B2
77mustard40
SILVER Star
The YZ filter packs a high volume of filter material in that little can, and has a high quality anti-drain back valve which is really important at startup specially for any of us that drive our 40’s periodically. No issues for me with higher viscosity oil and that filter.
Word of caution from the 80 Section regarding Napa Gold/WIX filters, there are a number of dead 1FZ-FE motors using these filters due to anti-drain back valve failures that resulted in oil starvation. I ditched them a while back after hearing the woes from those owners.
I'd not expect issues with the Denso YZZD3, or any other filter, again the thread is about the best filter. The pressure relief valve should have a sensor to indicate when the filter is bypassed, if you are judging the performance merit of any set-up. The pressure relief valve, on all but the NAPA / WIX is at the other end of the filter, not where oil enters the can, but on the other side. That means that unfiltered oil will pass by the dirty side of the pleats of the filter, to the top of the filter (as installed on a 2F) where it is released back into the motor via the pressure relief valve. Maybe that is why the NAPA / Wix filter is ahead, in terms of design, as the pressure-relief valve is integral to the anti-backflow valve - it doesn't purge the filter-media of particulate when the pressure from the pump is greater than what can be worked thru the downstream oil galleries?
I've opened up a few oil filters and they have never looked impressive. No little metal rocker arm bushing parts (brass flakes), no particulates, nothing that appears at the bottom of the oil catch pan when I do oil changes.
They say to always pre-fill an oil filter. It is better for the top-end of the engine. They found that when you do it you find less water in the used oil analysis samples. I use a drier on my air compressor, that catches water, so I'm basically convinced. I'd imagine that means that there should be as much oil in the new filter as there was in the old filter when it was removed. I probably need to fill the filter in a horizontal position, and roll it as I add oil.
Maybe it is the newer TOYOTA - font that is painted on the YZZD3 can that bothers me? I'm a somewhat of a purist, so vintage is important. I'm not going for restoration-quality, but, rather as close to 'un-restored' original as possible. The sticker came off easily from the Microgard filter, and it isn't a distraction in the engine bay. I've removed stickers from the battery as well, which helped the overall appearance. All the stuff with the 2F-updates is a distraction to me, the gear-reduction starter, the later non-smog carburetor, swapped-in distributors, headers (albeit headers are totally practical given parts availablity), the newer coolant overflow bottle, and the oil filter.
I've opened up a few oil filters and they have never looked impressive. No little metal rocker arm bushing parts (brass flakes), no particulates, nothing that appears at the bottom of the oil catch pan when I do oil changes.
They say to always pre-fill an oil filter. It is better for the top-end of the engine. They found that when you do it you find less water in the used oil analysis samples. I use a drier on my air compressor, that catches water, so I'm basically convinced. I'd imagine that means that there should be as much oil in the new filter as there was in the old filter when it was removed. I probably need to fill the filter in a horizontal position, and roll it as I add oil.
Maybe it is the newer TOYOTA - font that is painted on the YZZD3 can that bothers me? I'm a somewhat of a purist, so vintage is important. I'm not going for restoration-quality, but, rather as close to 'un-restored' original as possible. The sticker came off easily from the Microgard filter, and it isn't a distraction in the engine bay. I've removed stickers from the battery as well, which helped the overall appearance. All the stuff with the 2F-updates is a distraction to me, the gear-reduction starter, the later non-smog carburetor, swapped-in distributors, headers (albeit headers are totally practical given parts availablity), the newer coolant overflow bottle, and the oil filter.
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These fellas adhere to a 500 mountain pass OCI, but will reuse the filter until they can get to the local Mr T store for a new one.
