Builds Bean! The Adventure Continues (1987 FJ60) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bullzi
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- 1987 build thread builds fj60
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- #322
Knuckles cleaned up with a fine scotch-brite pad and painted:
I have been using and really liking Eastwoods Internal Frame coating. It is meant for inside the frame, but works well on frame and suspension components. On some things I top coat it with VHT or Rustoleum.
It applies super thin and dries very hard. You can put it right over surface rust, although I prefer to get all that crap off!
The knuckle balls are coated with a very thin coat. It will probably wipe off from the felts eventually.
I have been using and really liking Eastwoods Internal Frame coating. It is meant for inside the frame, but works well on frame and suspension components. On some things I top coat it with VHT or Rustoleum.
It applies super thin and dries very hard. You can put it right over surface rust, although I prefer to get all that crap off!
The knuckle balls are coated with a very thin coat. It will probably wipe off from the felts eventually.
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- Thread starter
- #323
Front and read diffs pulled!
Rear is getting a set of 4.11 Yukon gears and the front is getting a locker.
Rear:
Front:
Next weekend I’ll be getting some help with this as I’ve never set one up before.
Excited!!
Rear is getting a set of 4.11 Yukon gears and the front is getting a locker.
Rear:
Front:
Next weekend I’ll be getting some help with this as I’ve never set one up before.
Excited!!
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Always impressive stuff. This is one lucky land cruiser.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Can't wait to see the transformation. I have been considering this exact thing for mine. 
What do you think your final caster number will be with plates?
- Thread starter
- #327
That’s a great question… Not quite sure.
The geometry of this kit is very close to a stock 80 series, but with stock 80 springs this kit gives the 60 series a 2ish inch lift. This has to do with weight differences as well as the placement of the spring towers. This means the caster is going to be lower than the stock 80 series by a few degrees.
When we were designing this kit at Torfab we used castor correction bushings on the test rig (Tor’s truck). I think that got it to stock-ish caster which is about 1-2 degrees IIRC.
I think with the plates I’ll get a few more degrees. I plan on measuring when the conversion is done. I’ll keep you updated.
I think 3 degrees would probably be good with the larger tires.
Torfab told me that these plates are what they use on their swaps because they seem to drive the best. I’m assuming they have tried different plate angles to find the right match.
Great write up. I believe on the 80 series are somewhere at 3 degrees. I can't recall.
I took measurements before the swap and it does look like a 2"ish lift with stock springs. During the upcoming months I will be doing testing with diffrent radius arms.
- Thread starter
- #329
I am excited to watch this one. Gonna be a great build!
Done at wellsorted.
- Thread starter
- #333
Love the paint color and graphics combo!
Conversion looks great! I'm getting more and more excited!
It has an 80 steering box. Not sure if you will use one.
It's been on there since 1985. It was a dealer option. It's actually painted.
That's why I said you will love it.
- Thread starter
- #337
My engine sits about 1/2" too close to the steering box to use the 80 series box...I already tried to put one in. I resealed my 60 box and it is working pretty well. I sourced an 80 series pitman arm that I will be using though.
Tight fit. Test fit if not you might have to get one with a slight drop.
- Thread starter
- #339
New brake lines bent up. I’m going to reuse the Tee off my 60 series axle, so I left them a little long and will flare them when I decommission the old axle.
I’m pretty happy with them. I made a few scratches through the coating so I’ll probably give them a light coat of the internal frame coating to keep them rust-free for at least a while.
I’m pretty happy with them. I made a few scratches through the coating so I’ll probably give them a light coat of the internal frame coating to keep them rust-free for at least a while.
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- Thread starter
- #340
Been sick this last week with a bad head cold / sinus infection which is a bummer because I had to cancel on the diff re-gear session I had planned.
This might set me back a few weeks. Learning how to set up diffs was the last thing I needed to get the front axle all buttoned up.
In other news, I took @cruisermatt ‘s advice and got a new tie-rod tube. After he had mentioned it, I just couldn’t stop thinking about those old rusty stripped-out threads failing and causing a serious (potentially dangerous) situation.
I went with an aftermarket (Joint-Fuji) one for about 1/2 the price of OEM. It seems to be an exact replica. I’m sure the quality is similar as well.
I hope to be feeling better soon and getting back to it!
This might set me back a few weeks. Learning how to set up diffs was the last thing I needed to get the front axle all buttoned up.
In other news, I took @cruisermatt ‘s advice and got a new tie-rod tube. After he had mentioned it, I just couldn’t stop thinking about those old rusty stripped-out threads failing and causing a serious (potentially dangerous) situation.
I went with an aftermarket (Joint-Fuji) one for about 1/2 the price of OEM. It seems to be an exact replica. I’m sure the quality is similar as well.
I hope to be feeling better soon and getting back to it!
