***All fixed*** real time help - should I replace Cam seal and Crank seal? Doing timing belt now (1 Viewer)

[Jczajka]

Timing belt sorted out; see my update on post #17

Stalling again like this post from me last week. No idea what's up.


I didnt order cam or crank seals when I bought all my timing belt stuff (I know, I know), but now I have everything out and wondering if I should replace them.

Crank seal is 30 mins away at a dealer and cam seals are 1 hour away at dealer (actually has all 3). Not pouring oil, but engine has some greasy dust pasted on around the front. I wiped off a bit under the cam with a paper towel, you can see where I wiped away the black under the crank seal. The greasy dust could be from the power steering hoses that are leaky and will be replaced soon.

I want thoughts on this.

I have heard replace if leaking. OR Leave them alone if not leaky!

Whats the consensus?

 

[trdcorolla]

I would since you have a non vvti motor.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I didn't do mine at 150k. I thought about doing it next time. I would leave it. Do you have a seal puller and the ability to seat the new seals?

 

[Jczajka]

I didn't do mine at 150k. I thought about doing it next time. I would leave it. Do you have a seal puller and the ability to seat the new seals?

nope, but if I go to get new seals, I will get a puller and some PVC the correct diameter.

 

[87warrior]

I didn't bother with mine when doing the cruisers 3rd timing belt last weekend. No reason to replace seals if they are not leaking or damaged (advice that was also echoed by a parts dealer here on mud). Some folks like to replace them, but I did not see a reason to.

 

[Jczajka]

Did I mess up my timing? I forgot to take photos before I pulled off the belt.

I turned the crank to 50 past TDC and then pulled the belt. I thought I was careful not to move anything, but now passenger side cam seems off.

Cam timing marks in pink. Balancer just placed on for the photo.

Do I need to rotate the passenger side to line up the pink mark with T like the driver's side?

Pass, driver, balancer:

 

[2001LC]

"T" is not timing mark. It's the straight mark before the "T"

 

[vipergrhd]

Do all of it if I were you. You don't have to go back in there again if it leaks before your next TB is due.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

This is what correctly timed engine looks like:

Passenger:

Driver:

Main:

 

[Travis Bickle]

"T" is not timing mark. It's the straight mark before the "T"

Can't quote this enough.

 

[Rolocado]

Is the T for top dead? Or what?

 

[Jczajka]

"T" is not timing mark. It's the straight mark before the "T"

Yeah, I got that. I'm at 50° past TDC, so everything was clocked towards the driver's side.

Should I just rotate everything clockwise and line all three back up with the timing marks before the new belt?

Or do I clock so everything is 50° past TDC? That what I was basing this on. Like 2000 FSM says.

That's my confusion

 

[87warrior]

I do not understand the reasoning behind the 50° rotation past TDC, but Toyota tells us to do it (though I ignored it and replaced the belt at TDC).

If you haven't moved the cams or crank, it should be timed correctly. Toss the belt on with the arrows pointing at the cam timing mark and the arrow pointing at the crank 'dot'. Stick the crank pulley and cover on, then rotate the it almost two full turns, back to TDC. The cam marks should line up and the crank should be at TDC. Marks on the belt wont be in the right spot anymore.

 

[nukegoat]

I do not understand the reasoning behind the 50° rotation past TDC, but Toyota tells us to do it (though I ignored it and replaced the belt at TDC).

If you haven't moved the cams or crank, it should be timed correctly. Toss the belt on with the arrows pointing at the cam timing mark and the arrow pointing at the crank 'dot'. Stick the crank pulley and cover on, then rotate the it almost two full turns, back to TDC. The cam marks should line up and the crank should be at TDC. Marks on the belt wont be in the right spot anymore.

It's probably so that everything is unbound and not inclined to want to rotate if it's +/- 5 degrees or something

 

[97 AZ LC]

See 12:00 to 15:00 here -

Note that he turns one cam counterclockwise and the other clockwise.

 

[2001LC]

I've yet to replace crank or cam seal. I've just not seen one leak. If I did see cam seal leak while doing a T-belt job, then I'd replace all 3 seals.

If no leak, I'd not replace any. If I did get a leak between belt jobs. I'd first make sure PCV system and all vacuum hoses in good order. This includes, that air box sealing as it should. It's issue with PCV that builds up pressure in crank , which causes most engines to leak. Using good oil and filter with regular 5K change interval, is also key to avoiding leaks. And never use High Mileage oil, it will damage the seals. If I knew and engine used HM oil, I would replace seals, and pray rear main didn't leak.

If all is in tip top shape, and I did get a leak. I'd add AT-205 re-seal (no other) to the oil, and see if that stop the leak. I any case, it's likely a leak would be very minor and hard to even see if it did develop.

If still noticeably leaking, I may go in and reseal and do early T-belt job. But likely so small I'd just wait until 90K mile or 7 yrs. up.

We've found we can the spin crank or cam with timing belt off without interference in the non VVT 2UZ. This is not the case with the VVT engine. So whereas I do follow the FSM out of habit, religiously. It's written as if it is interference engine. So don't get hung on 50 degrees or what not. The one thing kind of helpful, is have cam set back 1/2 a tooth. It makes lining up the belt easier as I recall. I do like my cams and crank set on the marks, as I put on the belt. But that's not a big deal either, it just make me feel good. Getting belt aligned to marks on crank and cams is very important, it's the key. Then turning crank 720 degrees CW to marks. They (cams & crank marks) then must all line up to marks on engine, before you button up.

Tip: change spark plugs with timing belt job. Reason. Well not bad idea every 90K with re-torque ever 30K miles. But also if you remove the spark plugs, it makes turning the crank and cams so much easier.

You'll fine helpful tip & procedure in these threads as well as many more in mud. Including time when crank or cams are out of phase.

Something timing belt-ish failed

Tuesday morning I was happily driving to work and all the sudden, the truck just quit. I pulled over to the side of the freeway. It would crank but not start. I got it towed home and put the scanner on it and it returned a P0340 code. Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction. I looked at...

forum.ih8mud.com

Timing belt Install; post #134 Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

 

[Jczajka]

Everything is good.

Left cam just sprung forward, as you can see in the first pic. So I had to adjust them all like @OTRAMM did in the video. Belts all lined up and spun it all around a couple times and it all lands on the marks.

Thanks for everyone's input. I followed all the steps and it works great. Only thing I didn't do was trust myself. Just being overly cautious.

 

[Jczajka]

I've yet to replace crank or cam seal. I've just not seen one leak. If I did see cam seal leak while doing a T-belt job, then I'd replace all 3 seals.

If no leak, I'd not replace any. If I did get a leak between belt jobs. I'd first make sure PCV system and all vacuum hoses in good order. This includes, that air box sealing as it should. It's issue with PCV that builds up pressure in crank , which causes most engines to leak. Using good oil and filter with regular 5K change interval, is also key to avoiding leaks. And never use High Mileage oil, it will damage the seals. If I knew and engine used HM oil, I would replace seals, and pray rear main didn't leak.

If all is in tip top shape, and I did get a leak. I'd add AT-205 re-seal (no other) to the oil, and see if that stop the leak. I any case, it's likely a leak would be very minor and hard to even see if it did develop.

If still noticeably leaking, I may go in and reseal and do early T-belt job. But likely so small I'd just wait until 90K mile or 7 yrs. up.

We've found we can the spin crank or cam with timing belt off without interference in the non VVT 2UZ. This is not the case with the VVT engine. So whereas I do follow the FSM out of habit, religiously. It's written as if it is interference engine. So don't get hung on 50 degrees or what not. The one thing kind of helpful, is have cam set back 1/2 a tooth. It makes lining up the belt easier as I recall. I do like my cams and crank set on the marks, as I put on the belt. But that's not a big deal either, it just make me feel good. Getting belt aligned to marks on crank and cams is very important, it's the key. Then turning crank 720 degrees CW to marks. They (cams & crank marks) then must all line up to marks on engine, before you button up.

Tip: change spark plugs with timing belt job. Reason. Well not bad idea every 90K with re-torque ever 30K miles. But also if you remove the spark plugs, it makes turning the crank and cams so much easier.

You'll fine helpful tip & procedure in these threads as well as many more in mud. Including time when crank or cams are out of phase.

Something timing belt-ish failed

Tuesday morning I was happily driving to work and all the sudden, the truck just quit. I pulled over to the side of the freeway. It would crank but not start. I got it towed home and put the scanner on it and it returned a P0340 code. Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction. I looked at...

forum.ih8mud.com

Timing belt Install; post #134 Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

Thanks @2001LC all good stuff. I figured out clocking the left cam half on my own and half from watching the video again for the 15th time.

I changed the spark plugs and coils last week when I was chasing down a stall and low idle issue. Turned out to be my Throttle Control Motor after testing everything with my multimeter and help from everyone here.

All vac hoses and PCV/Grommet picked up from @beno so the will be replaced as I button it back up. So I think I should be good. At this point I feel like I'm fine not replacing the seals and I don't suspect I'll have any leaking. I plan a full Mobil 1 oil change after I button up the timing belt.

Only thing left to do after this is clean and bleed my Power Steering and put new hoses on, per your write ups, and bleed and dial my bouncy AHC.

Thanks so much for all the help from the community!

 

[Jczajka]

Truck started right up, first kick and ran great.

Had it running for about 8 minutes maybe to try to burp the coolant I just added. It was running with a pretty high idle for a while and then settled down.

Smelled a little rich, with some white smoke, maybe just vapor from the tailpipe. The idle settled to about 850 rpm and after a minute the idle dropped and it stalled again.

Started it again, started right up and then dies after a minute. Heat started kicking in after second start. Died again after a minute... Just keeps stalling now after a minute or so.

No dash lights, no codes on the Scangauge.


I thought I fixed the stalling with a new Throttle Control motor. What should I be looking for now?


Though I was all good. At least it looks nice

 

[Jczajka]

Now it just immediately stalls.

Anything I should look at in Techstream?