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***All fixed*** real time help - should I replace Cam seal and Crank seal? Doing timing belt now (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jczajka
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Very handy photos!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Check engine temp. If sending unit disconnected or bad. You may be flooding. Fuel inject may be in full on mode, dumping fuel as need during stater up. Worth a look. Look hard for vacuum lines disconnected also. This includes the idle up control vacuum lines coming from vane pump (Power steering pump) to air box (from.
Also look in FSM for test procedure for MAF sensor.
Also check the wires for crank and cam sensors aren't rubbing belt and are hooked up.
Also look in FSM for test procedure for MAF sensor.
Also check the wires for crank and cam sensors aren't rubbing belt and are hooked up.
- Thread starter
- #23
I'm leaning towards coolant temp sensor for EIF now. I've read a few other posts of people having that issue.
I checked all the other things when I thought I fixed the stalling with my Throttle Control Valve, in this post. The TCV was the only item in that group that was not within the acceptable range. I didn't replace the idle up control vacuum lines, though I thought I had ordered them, so actually ordered them last night. They look ok, but most of my other vacuum lines were brittle, dry, and/or cracked.
All the vacuum tubing was just replaced with new clamps, when I was doing the timing belt. I'll double check all of them and look for poor clamping.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Most times new vacuum lines don't need a clamp, they hold very well. But I do put on clamps anyway. Idle up line to air box would have to be off, to do much of anything. So yes I'd look to the others outlined as more likely.
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- Thread starter
- #25
May have found the culprit (though I've said that before) with this coolant sensor.
Cracked and not reading any resistance on its own or in 140° water.
Going to get a new one and see how this saga unfolds.
Cracked and not reading any resistance on its own or in 140° water.
Going to get a new one and see how this saga unfolds.
- Thread starter
- #26
The brand new large breather line that goes to the air box is a super loose fit. The clamp isn't really tight either
- Thread starter
- #27
Nope, of course not.
The sensor was definitely dead and the local dealer with the good prices had one in stock. I installed it and fired right up and then died after a few minutes.
Tried driving around the block and died progressively quicker and quicker, unil it wouldn't start.
Battery was at 10.8v when I got out to walk home. Was at 14.8 while driving when it first started after replacing the temp sensor. Previously the battery was 12.8 cold and 15 something when running. I assumed it was so low from trying to start the truck 7 times to get home and not having drivin it for 5-6 days, but maybe its a bad battery or alternator?
I've already cleaned the grounds on the fender, the engine lift point, and on the firewall. I know there are more I should probably be looking for, so time to research that.
Already checked cam, crank, pedal position, and throttle position sensors. They were all within the good range. Throttle Control motor was replaced since it tested bad. I keep reading post of people for tossed in a new crank sensor and it fired right up! I wish it was that, but it tested good.
New fuel pump and fuel filter in the last month or two from previous owner. I know fell like they were chasing down this issue right before it sold.
So now I need to read up on ground locations, alternators, best battery to buy, and fuel pressure testing...
Thought I was going to have a working truck and a weekend to relax. Time to drive over and pull the battery to throw it on the trickle charger. I didnt feel like carrying it home.
The sensor was definitely dead and the local dealer with the good prices had one in stock. I installed it and fired right up and then died after a few minutes.
Tried driving around the block and died progressively quicker and quicker, unil it wouldn't start.
Battery was at 10.8v when I got out to walk home. Was at 14.8 while driving when it first started after replacing the temp sensor. Previously the battery was 12.8 cold and 15 something when running. I assumed it was so low from trying to start the truck 7 times to get home and not having drivin it for 5-6 days, but maybe its a bad battery or alternator?
I've already cleaned the grounds on the fender, the engine lift point, and on the firewall. I know there are more I should probably be looking for, so time to research that.
Already checked cam, crank, pedal position, and throttle position sensors. They were all within the good range. Throttle Control motor was replaced since it tested bad. I keep reading post of people for tossed in a new crank sensor and it fired right up! I wish it was that, but it tested good.
New fuel pump and fuel filter in the last month or two from previous owner. I know fell like they were chasing down this issue right before it sold.
So now I need to read up on ground locations, alternators, best battery to buy, and fuel pressure testing...
Thought I was going to have a working truck and a weekend to relax. Time to drive over and pull the battery to throw it on the trickle charger. I didnt feel like carrying it home.
- Thread starter
- #28
I already checked for severed or frayed wiring and didnt see anything. I didnt pull back the wire cover to check to see if there was any damage underneath, but from what I've read most cut wires are obvious and not something tucked up in a wire loom.
These issues seem to be symptomatic of almost anything; fuel delivery, spark, any freaking sensor in the car, battery, alternator, now I'm reading starter as the cause for some people.
Here is what I have done so far:
I've also found broken glass in my rear tailgate that is probably related to the rear defroster issue below. For the first 5-6 days the truck drove fine, then the stalling started.
Prior to my buying it there were these things from the Lexus site. I hope this helps piece it together. I undelined the pertinent info
194056 MILES
DATE: 04/16/2019
SERVICE:
DESCRIPTION: CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART ~|~CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART BUT WILL JUST KEEP CRANKING, CUSTOMER TXTED TECH ABOUT REPAIR ISSUE. PLEASE ADVISE. ~|~FUEL FILTER CLOGGED ~|~194056 FUEL FILTER CLOGGED INSPECTED AND TESTED EXTREMELY INTERMITTENT STALL AS POSSIBLE. INSPECTED REAR WIRING HARNESS FOR ADDITIONAL CORROSION, BREAKAGE, ETC; NONE FOUND. INSPECTED AND TESTED STEERING COLUMN COMPONENTS FOR INTERMITTENT SHORT TO GROUND OCUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART
193542 MILES
DATE: 03/22/2019
SERVICE:
DESCRIPTION: CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART ~|~CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART BUT WILL JUST KEEP CRANKING, CUSTOMER TXTED ADVISOR / TECH ABOUT REPAIR ISSUE. PLEASE ADVISE. ~|~ ~|~193542 COULD NOT CONFIRM CUSTOMERS CONCERN AT THIS TIME. ROAD TESTED VEHICLE OVER 15 MILES WITHOUT CONFIRMATION OF CONCERN. RELEASE VEHICLE TO CUSTOMER AND RETURN IN CONDITION PRESENTS ITSELF.CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART
192834 MILES
DATE: 03/05/2019
SERVICE:
CUSTOMER STATES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER TURNED ON ENGINE IDLES ROUGH
DESCRIPTION: CUSTOMER STATES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER TURNED ON ENGINE IDLES ROUGH ~|~CUSTOMER STATES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER TURNED ON ENGINE IDLES ROUGH ~|~CORROSION IN REAR HATCH CONNECTOR ~|~192828 CORROSION IN REAR HATCH CONNECTOR SHORT TO GROUND OF FUEL PUMP DURING REAR DEFROSTER OPERATION CAUSED STUMBLED. EXCESSIVE/CONSTANT SHORT TO GROUND CAUSED FUEL PUMP TO MALFUNCTION. CLEAN HARNESS AND CONNECTORS OF CORROSION AND APPLY DI-ELECTRIC GREA
SERVICE: ENTER CONCERN
DESCRIPTION: ENTER CONCERN ~|~ENGINE STUMBLES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER IS ACTIVATED ~|~CORROSION IN CONNECTOR FOR REAR DEFROSTER ~|~192828 CORROSION IN CONNECTOR FOR REAR DEFROSTER REMOVE HARNESS, CLEAN HARNESS, APPLY DI-ELECTRIC GREASE TO CONNECTOR, RE-TEST POST FUEL PUMP
These issues seem to be symptomatic of almost anything; fuel delivery, spark, any freaking sensor in the car, battery, alternator, now I'm reading starter as the cause for some people.
Here is what I have done so far:
- New air filter
- New MAF
- Cleaned throttle body
- New Throttle Control Motor; tested bad
- Tested Cam, Crank, Pedal Position, throttle position, sensors and all check out.
- New Denso plugs (x8)
- New Denso coils (x8)
- Cleaned and greased batt terminals, new clamps, cleaned greased ground at fender wall, engine lift point, firewall
- New Alternator fuse
- New 100a, and 80a fusible link (I dont remember what they were for)
- Replaced almost all vacuum lines in the engine bay.
- Just did timing belt and all bearings in there, plus new radiator and hoses (stalling was already happening)
I've also found broken glass in my rear tailgate that is probably related to the rear defroster issue below. For the first 5-6 days the truck drove fine, then the stalling started.
Prior to my buying it there were these things from the Lexus site. I hope this helps piece it together. I undelined the pertinent info
194056 MILES
DATE: 04/16/2019
SERVICE:
DESCRIPTION: CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART ~|~CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART BUT WILL JUST KEEP CRANKING, CUSTOMER TXTED TECH ABOUT REPAIR ISSUE. PLEASE ADVISE. ~|~FUEL FILTER CLOGGED ~|~194056 FUEL FILTER CLOGGED INSPECTED AND TESTED EXTREMELY INTERMITTENT STALL AS POSSIBLE. INSPECTED REAR WIRING HARNESS FOR ADDITIONAL CORROSION, BREAKAGE, ETC; NONE FOUND. INSPECTED AND TESTED STEERING COLUMN COMPONENTS FOR INTERMITTENT SHORT TO GROUND OCUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART
193542 MILES
DATE: 03/22/2019
SERVICE:
DESCRIPTION: CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART ~|~CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART BUT WILL JUST KEEP CRANKING, CUSTOMER TXTED ADVISOR / TECH ABOUT REPAIR ISSUE. PLEASE ADVISE. ~|~ ~|~193542 COULD NOT CONFIRM CUSTOMERS CONCERN AT THIS TIME. ROAD TESTED VEHICLE OVER 15 MILES WITHOUT CONFIRMATION OF CONCERN. RELEASE VEHICLE TO CUSTOMER AND RETURN IN CONDITION PRESENTS ITSELF.CUSTOMER STATES VEHICLE IS INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AND THEN TURNING OFF AND THEN TRIES TO RESTART
192834 MILES
DATE: 03/05/2019
SERVICE:
CUSTOMER STATES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER TURNED ON ENGINE IDLES ROUGH
DESCRIPTION: CUSTOMER STATES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER TURNED ON ENGINE IDLES ROUGH ~|~CUSTOMER STATES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER TURNED ON ENGINE IDLES ROUGH ~|~CORROSION IN REAR HATCH CONNECTOR ~|~192828 CORROSION IN REAR HATCH CONNECTOR SHORT TO GROUND OF FUEL PUMP DURING REAR DEFROSTER OPERATION CAUSED STUMBLED. EXCESSIVE/CONSTANT SHORT TO GROUND CAUSED FUEL PUMP TO MALFUNCTION. CLEAN HARNESS AND CONNECTORS OF CORROSION AND APPLY DI-ELECTRIC GREA
SERVICE: ENTER CONCERN
DESCRIPTION: ENTER CONCERN ~|~ENGINE STUMBLES WHEN REAR DEFROSTER IS ACTIVATED ~|~CORROSION IN CONNECTOR FOR REAR DEFROSTER ~|~192828 CORROSION IN CONNECTOR FOR REAR DEFROSTER REMOVE HARNESS, CLEAN HARNESS, APPLY DI-ELECTRIC GREASE TO CONNECTOR, RE-TEST POST FUEL PUMP
- Thread starter
- #29
Just yanked the battery and brought it home. 12.35v out of the car. WTF!?
Could the stalling be starter related? The battery has a seemingly good charge, but wont restart after stalling. OR does this mean fuel delivery. The stalling get progressively worse once it first stall.
I am at a loss here.
Could the stalling be starter related? The battery has a seemingly good charge, but wont restart after stalling. OR does this mean fuel delivery. The stalling get progressively worse once it first stall.
I am at a loss here.
I have no idea but I have had a bad battery do some weird stuff. Sounds like you have done more than I would have known to do.
- Thread starter
- #31
Anyone know a good spot to dump a burning Land Cruiser into the river in the Philadelphia area? Asking for a friend. 
2001LC
SILVER Star
RH PCV Hose. Should be snug! Old clamp is always loose.
I've been fixing a number of air box nipples. Guys bust them and try to fix with epoxy, which will not hold. They break if vacuum line not worked off! The fuel line you used for the small air box nipple near firewall. Connected to a VSV pipe of different diameter. Makes challenging = Not to tight Not too loose.
Could be battery is not fully charging. Much less than 12.5V, 100's get funky! If battery not fully charged each time, it's hard on them too. A number of thing cause this. Most common; Tired battery, Dry battery post with oxidation built up, Alternator, Parasitic drain or Drive belt issue.
Your vacuum lines all look good. Air box, fuel lines as well. Did you replace all 8 coils, nice. Fuel filter sweet. Nice looking engine bay. Put in the new OEM temp sending unit. Clean and grease a fresh charged battery to over 13.1V. Fire it up and have fun!
I went through a temp sensor problem on mine. It turned out the wires for the temp sensor was burned in the loom and also needed replacing.
- Thread starter
- #34
Ah, ok I'll check that now. Going to walk over and put the battery in that's been charging all night.
- Thread starter
- #35
I've ordered new lines for the makeshift lines. New clamps as well for the new PCV to airbox connection.
All the bearings and belts in the engine are brand new.
I'm going to get the battery tested today and maybe get a new one if needed. What's the battery consensus? I've read of people going oversized.
I fell asleep with the laptop open on battery, alternator, and starter tabs all open. Ha
Hoping it's just a tired battery. Reading battery posts like the 27F AGM post now.
My concern is the previous owner appears to have been chasing down this same issue of stalling before I bought the truck. The battery is relatively new as well and fuel filter/pump and almost everything else at this point.
I'm going to keep digging. Check fuel pump wiring, investigate the rear defroster, check alternator, coolant sensor wiring. Ahhhhhh
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- Thread starter
- #36
Pulled my Interstate 24F off the charger where it's been for the last 10 hours and it's a 13v. The truck usually starts fine after a ECU reset, but starts acting up after that. We'll see how it goes.
- Thread starter
- #37
Welp. No go. Took a long turn of the key to get it to start and then died after 2 seconds or running.
Now just cranks and won't start.
It's a 5min walk from my house in me neighborhood, so not the ideal spot to be working on it
Def looking more deeply into the pushing it into a river option at this point
Now just cranks and won't start.
It's a 5min walk from my house in me neighborhood, so not the ideal spot to be working on it
Def looking more deeply into the pushing it into a river option at this point
Sorry to hear about all the trouble.
I’m not car expert, but long ago I had a similar issue with my old Maxima starting and stalling. Traced to a fuel problem and was the fuel pump wiring harness that was fried/corroded. It looks like there was some mention of that in your post above from the prior owner. Have you checked that?
Good luck! At least most of your parts are new and hopefully will last a bit longer once you iron this kink out.
I’m not car expert, but long ago I had a similar issue with my old Maxima starting and stalling. Traced to a fuel problem and was the fuel pump wiring harness that was fried/corroded. It looks like there was some mention of that in your post above from the prior owner. Have you checked that?
Good luck! At least most of your parts are new and hopefully will last a bit longer once you iron this kink out.
- Thread starter
- #39
Yeah, that's next on the list to test. The neighbors will love me yanking seats out of the back of my car, while parked in front of their house!
2001LC
SILVER Star
While problem present, try: Removing fuel line from up-stream side of fuel filter, remove the clip, slip a hose over filter nipple and run to a catch can. Then crank and see if you get fuel!
