Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Does the newer plastic intake plenum come apart or is it all one solid piece? I was debating taking mine apart (even though i had mistakenly bought the gasket that goes between the two pieces) but i was glad i did. Mine had oil and carbon deposits that i was able to fully clean.

What i found worked best for removing that oil/crud and the carbon deposits in the intake: gasoline on a shop towel. Worked a lot better than any cleaner i tried, wont hurt the intake either.

Mine was from leaking valve cover gaskets.

VVTi (06 to 07) intakes are plastic and do not come apart, no gasket sold for this. 98-05 are two piece: Split Intake Manifold take a look & Gaskets & Seals Poll

thanks. I've been own the cap and line checking. I wasn't going to replace the fpr but for a possible mpg bump and 76$ I will give it a shot and see what happens.
I didn't think about taking the throttle out and reaching under there. I'm going to try that.

Best price I found for FPR (on fuel rail) is ~$100 plus.

Good lucky on that vacuum hose!

 

[jerryb]

partsouq 66 plus 10 shipping. Those 30 dollar vacuum hoses are cheap there also (if you bunch a few of them together. I got a box of stuff yesterday from them. I wish I would have included the fpr sunday when I ordered.

no- taking the throttle off doesn't give you any more room for an adult hand to get in there, I checked though. I'm being ocd, I just don't like unmetered air getting in past the maf, among other things.

OH, and I meant I measure 39.5psi on the rail, not 38.5

 

[2001LC]

partsouq 66 plus 10 shipping. Those 30 dollar vacuum hoses are cheap there also (if you bunch a few of them together. I got a box of stuff yesterday from them. I wish I would have included the fpr sunday when I ordered.

no- taking the throttle off doesn't give you any more room for an adult hand to get in there, I checked though. I'm being ocd, I just don't like unmetered air getting in past the maf, among other things.

OH, and I meant I measure 39.5psi on the rail, not 38.5

I used Partsouq once last year out of Dubai IIRC. Cost was 60 cent on the dollar from lowest price online in USA. I don't know how they do it. But it was a very light weight item.

I check my vacuum hose from the VSV connector for the AI system (dangling). It's as good under side of intake as end on top going to VSV. So I'd say if your top end is good don't worry about hose.

For grins, took the shot of curved forceps on hose end. It very close to front,T-body is not in the way. Warning this hose on is tight.

 

[2001LC]

Today is parts and machine shop day...

I picked up 44 parts from Toyota Dealer.

Waiting now UPS for 10 parts.

Tomorrow Fedx for 65 parts.

Drop off fuel injector today at FIS drop location.

Then over to machine shop to drop off PS HP line to have new hose installed. They quot me $125 to $150 and two hours. $146.57 & 2:15 later I had my rebuilt line.

They cut off end, then brazed on their fitting, rebuilt the pressure value in center clamping with there band and attached new hose. New hose is removable so if it leaks again for about 1/2 price to redue. Hose is rated at 2K psi working 8k psi burst. There record is so good the old see about one return every five year or more and they do high volume 5 years...

 

[2001LC]

@PADDO the one front shock is still leaking as you know from our conversation. I found weep stopped when I crank (CW) T-bar up, yielding 5.5MPa. I then back off T-bar (CCW) yielding ~7MPa and weep started again cover about half the bottom of shock (wet). I understand from our conversation Toyota lays out what they consider "normal" oil tainting on a shock - anything up to 1/2 the body can be covered with an oil smudge but a run/drip or more then 1/2 shock covered then it's considered failed and needs replaced. (conventional shocks)

Even though this one front is consider serviceable (ok), I find myself uncomfortable with a weep for the long term reliability.

So i'm going to replace just the one shock. Do you see any reason I should replace the other front shock (the pair)?

Any advise on replacement/tricks procedure would be very helpful

Thanks my friend!

 

[2001LC]

More parts a lot more.......

OEM front drive shaft, oh man those are sweet:

Axle hob flange & cone washer to pair up with new axles:

Coil springs:

Front stabilizer bar:

Lots of stuff:

 

[2001LC]

More parts! More on the way and more to be ordered

Fan bracket:

 

[2001LC]

Pull the timing belt. The Drive belt, Fan clutch, Timing Belt & Water Pump look very good. The Fan bracket, T-belt Tensioner, Tensioner & Idler pulleys, Drive belt tensioner & idler pulleys were all on last leg.

 

[Rolocado]

Pull the timing belt. The Drive belt, Fan clutch, Timing Belt & Water Pump look very good. The Fan bracket, T-belt Tensioner, Tensioner & Idler pulleys, Drive belt tensioner & idler pulleys were all on last leg.
View attachment 1501443
View attachment 1501441 View attachment 1501442 View attachment 1501444 View attachment 1501446

Dang, mind me asking the parts cost for this operation roughly?

 

[2001LC]

I'm in more than $3k.

I'm working on addition parts list now. Some new areas are going to be: front diff mounts/stops/bushing like you did, steering rack bushings, both front shock AHC, oil sending unit just for the grins. I still need to pull apart front end (wheel bearings, knuckle and such) so may find more stuff.

I've also over $10K in tools acquired over two life times (some of Dad's). Along with ~$2.5K in shop supplies. Supplies like greases, oils, sealants, FIPG's, compounds, waxes, conditioners, solvents, paints, metal preps.... the list goes on. And over $800 in FSM for the 100 series. I've no more room in my garage at this point, it is packed.

I may need one more FIPG tube today. I'll need to check what FSM recommends, then see what I've on-hand. Worked a little late last night, had to stop when eyes got tiered and I pulled a bolt from oil pump just next to tensioner. Darn old eyes. OH WELL!

The bolt will require a sealant/FIPG on threads, red I thinking by looks of it:

 

[2001LC]

I though it strange that the above stud has what appears to be red FIPG. I check my FSM and it doesn't call for any sealant or thread lock on that it. The oil pump does use black according to the FSM, but no red I know of. So I call my parts guy. He confirmed my supply of FIPG is all there is and red is trans/transmission stuff. He suggested maybe someone put lock-tight on it, I'll bet he's close. I think it's red FIPG some mechanic used when he did same as me and pulled that stud. He then reached for what was at hand (red) and sealed the treads to hold tight for next service.

I put a dab of my 102 FIPG and torqued it back in, hopefully end of store.

 

[04UZJ100]

Wow. Just wow. Subbed.

 

[2001LC]

Got a few more new parts installed:
Water pump, Timing belt, T-belt Tensioner & Idler pulleys, Tensioner, Thermostat , PCV, Spark plugs.

Some of stuff used to clean:

New gasket water pump fitted:

Checking underside for cleanliness:

 

[2001LC]

Cleaning new water pump before install:

Making sure to clear cam sensor wires without cutting with sharp edge of water pump:

Setting timing mark RH cam which is set one tooth CW for easy of install (I did not paint the T whatever that is for IDK)

Cam Timing mark LH set half a tooth CW for easy of install:

Crank timing mark set and #1 TDC on compression stroke:

 

[2001LC]

I like installing belt before idler pulleys:

Then install Belt Tensioner (hand grenade pin, take cover):

I have all spark plugs out, makes turning crank much easier. Coils in as covers to keep dust/water/grim/sand out of cylinder heads. Except #1 I keep my compression gauge in to determine when on compression stroke:

 

[2001LC]

CW turn two times check for binding and that all timing marks line up:

Cam sensor plate on curved side out. If it touch belt it's on wrong:

Now it's time for #1 cover:

 

[2001LC]

Got the ribs of the harmonic balancer protected with old timing belt, ready for chain wrench:
Note: Oil sending unit must be removed to use chain wrench. Make sure if not replacing oil sending unit to put some thread sealer on it. I just use 102 Black FIPG.

Chain wrench holds great, makes my 1/2' torque wrench look small. Ready to muscle up on that bad bot bolt:

Here is the part/piece forgotten the most and is not in the FSM that I've seen. I call it #1 sub cover. It's in two pieces. I put a dab of 102 black FIPG to hold the small piece to the larger (small) triangular cover. This cover was reported missing in a fellow mudder's rig. A mouse climb in the Timing belt area. The mouse later got trapped between belt & gear and actually caused the belt to slip:

Don't know if you can see but I'm pointing at #1 sub cover:

My tools will start going back in box as I proceed from here:

 

[2001LC]

Time for the new Fan bracket. I've a few tricks here to make go very easy.
FSM states to remove the 3 compressor bolts, do not. Just remove the front two.
Put a dab of lube on thread holes where compress bolts go into fan bracket.

Start all bolts/nuts on front of fan bracket but do not tighten (torque yet). Make sure fan bracket seat all the way in. Then put in those two forward compressor bolts but do not torque yet.

The compressor bolts are very difficult if not impossible to threat if you first tighten down the front fan bracket bolts. You need to be able to wiggle bracket to position for threading bolts from compressor side.

Now go back and torque the front bolt on fan bracket to firmly seat.

Then come back and torque the compressor bolts. One can be accessed from below the other from above.

You know me and marine grease. A little on fan bracket fan mount, it's a rust spot.

 

[2001LC]

Now for the drive belt tensioner install:

I knock out old tensioner pulley bearing with old junk/busted socket on a lead block so don't bend or mare pulley. Wood can be used, and may be better as it will aid pulley in hold sharp better than lead.

Press in my new bearing:

True out bearing on pulley as it sometimes doesn't seat perfectly square. You don't want off centered, as it will make drive belt noisy.
I just brace a metal object very close (slight rub) and lightly as I spin pulley. The rub tells the story!

 

[2001LC]

IIRC I installed #2 timing belt cover now. Sorry no pictures.

Now on with install of the new drive belt idler pulley/bearing. I've given up on finding a bearing replacement or using OEM. These Hydens idler pullety's are cheap, but caution un-tested as to how long they last.

Then #3 RH, and Finally #3 LH timing belt covers. It's important with these to get the little plastic latches/hook on cover placed. I find getting #3 in place then push cam sensor wire block through from back easy. Lastly the rubber grommet.

Tip for tear down at start of timing belt job: On #3 LH timing cover the wire housing block from cam sensor can be trying to remove. Two option here:
Remove timing belt cover far enough to remove clip by squeezing from back side to release.
Or slip a thin round object up from the bottom between black clip fastened to cover and gray wire block house. The slid house up.