***All fixed*** real time help - should I replace Cam seal and Crank seal? Doing timing belt now (1 Viewer)

[Jczajka]

While problem present, try: Removing fuel line from up-stream side of fuel filter, remove the clip, slip a hose over filter nipple and run to a catch can. Then crank and see if you get fuel!

Good call. I'll give that a shot.

Going to check the pump and wiring too.

Scanguage showed battery in the 10.8 range when trying to start. Jumped back up to 12v after I was done cranking. Going to bring the battery to the store to have it checked as well. Just need to sort out which battery to get.

 

[Jczajka]

Tried

While problem present, try: Removing fuel line from up-stream side of fuel filter, remove the clip, slip a hose over filter nipple and run to a catch can. Then crank and see if you get fuel!

Tried that, no fuel coming out of the filter when cranking.

I sucked on the hose that is connected to the filter and fuel came right out. Not sure what that means, but I assume the fuel pump isn't pulling fuel to the engine.

Have to go home to watch the kids so my wife can go out, to I'll have to get back to this later.

 

[Jczajka]

Fuel pump tested within range but low.

Where does the wiring for the fuel pump go?

I have some wires just under the rear DS door, near the AHC accumulator, that look like they are wrapped in a foot of electrical tape. Is that stock, or is that someone's repair?

Battery started fading after trying to start the truck 5-6 times, so maybe it is the battery? Was at 12.5v when it I got to the truck to test @2001LC hose from the fuel filter idea.

I suspect funky wiring

 

[Infinity00]

“Tried that, no fuel coming out of the filter when cranking.

On the hose that a connected to the filter and fuel came right out. Not sure what that means, but I assume the fuel pump isn't pulling fuel to the engine.”

I’m confused, if no fuel is coming out of the filter when you are cranking, isn’t that your problem? Maybe a clogged filter or line?[/QUOTE]

 

[medtro]

While problem present, try: Removing fuel line from up-stream side of fuel filter, remove the clip, slip a hose over filter nipple and run to a catch can. Then crank and see if you get fuel!

This is a good test to see if the pump is operating but it doesn't tell if the pump meets the fuel pressure spec for starting/running. I had one that passed this test but it didn't start until I put in a new fuel pump. OP, see if you can get fuel pressure before the engine dies.

 

[Jczajka]

Welp, wouldn't you know it, out the new Red Top in and she fired right up and puring like a kitten!

13.92v running, ramps up to 14+ when I grab a hand full of throttle cable, so I think the alternator is good. RPM at idle and TPS seem good.

Dare I say it's fixed!?

 

[Jczajka]

“Tried that, no fuel coming out of the filter when cranking.

On the hose that a connected to the filter and fuel came right out. Not sure what that means, but I assume the fuel pump isn't pulling fuel to the engine.”

I’m confused, if no fuel is coming out of the filter when you are cranking, isn’t that your problem? Maybe a clogged filter or line?

[/QUOTE]
Sorry, typing with gloves. I sucked on the hose attached to the filter and fuel came right out.

Fixed it with a new battery it seems...

 

[Infinity00]

Awesome!

 

[Jczajka]

I feel like the Throttle Control Motor and the Coolant Temp Sensor may have been part of the issue, but truck is running great now.

 

[kruisinkid]

just caught back up to the end of this from your other post. seemed a lot like battery once you started taking readings. batteries can show voltages that seem good but the only way to know for sure is to take to a big box store and have them load test it on the fancy machines. i lived through this not so long ago. my alternator died not long after, maybe a couple months. but it was some no name reman. i put the denso 130A reman in. all good now. hopefully yours stays running this time. you certainly threw enough cash at it, but sometimes thats my method too. now you got all sunday to drive!!

 

[Petertn45]

Congrats on the happy ending!

 

[Jczajka]

just caught back up to the end of this from your other post. seemed a lot like battery once you started taking readings. batteries can show voltages that seem good but the only way to know for sure is to take to a big box store and have them load test it on the fancy machines. i lived through this not so long ago. my alternator died not long after, maybe a couple months. but it was some no name reman. i put the denso 130A reman in. all good now. hopefully yours stays running this time. you certainly threw enough cash at it, but sometimes thats my method too. now you got all sunday to drive!!

I feel like an alternator is probably in my future. Or a starter. Something large and intricate will pop up! Ha.

If I have time Sunday I'll throw my Pioneer head unit it that's been chilling in a box. Most likely I will wrangle kids and let my wife have time for herself tomorrow.

 

[2001LC]

Temp sending unit was for sure part of the problem.

As I said these 100 don't like low voltage, an do act funny if voltage low. Fresh battery can make big difference.

But, I am, still concerned with fuel delivery. Fuel should have flown out fuel filter while engine cranking and battery over 12.5 even 12.3v. I suspect you've a build up of resistance in or to your fuel pump. The issue may come up again, like on a very hot day. Heat increases resistance. Could be, the weak battery was revealing a weak spot!

@abuck99 you've been doing some fuel pump study and work lately, what your thoughts?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Glad your truck runs, you certainly put in a lot of work
I would still check on the fuel pressure to make sure your pump is up to the spec

 

[Mauser]

Wonder if low battery voltage was the reason for the key programming problem.

 

[Jczajka]

Wonder if low battery voltage was the reason for the key programming problem.

I was thinking the same thing

 

[abuck99]

Temp sending unit was for sure part of the problem.

As I said these 100 don't like low voltage, an do act funny if voltage low. Fresh battery can make big difference.

But, I am, still concerned with fuel delivery. Fuel should have flown out fuel filter while engine cranking and battery over 12.5 even 12.3v. I suspect you've a build up of resistance in or to your fuel pump. The issue may come up again, like on a very hot day. Heat increases resistance. Could be, the weak battery was revealing a weak spot!

@abuck99 you've been doing some fuel pump study and work lately, what your thoughts?

Resistance came to mind seeing low range of spec on multimeter and when new battery seemd to solve the issue. Fresh battery maybe temporarily masking the issue. Time will tell. I think pressure testing the FP would show its health more effectively.

I hadn't any FP issues, but did have intermittent fuel sender issue giving faulty gauge readings. I pulled and replaced the sender and preventatively changed the fuel pump while I was in there (@195k miles).

 

[KTP]

i Had a similar issue and actually threw a light. i Pulled off my throttle body and it was clogged with black tar from the PCV valve crap all around the edges keeping any air for entering to keep it idling, Once i cleaned it on both sides...Walla' purr's like a kitten, and NO LIGHTS.. and i bought new cats thinking they were clogged.

 

[Jczajka]

Resistance came to mind seeing low range of spec on multimeter and when new battery seemd to solve the issue. Fresh battery maybe temporarily masking the issue. Time will tell. I think pressure testing the FP would show its health more effectively.

I hadn't any FP issues, but did have intermittent fuel sender issue giving faulty gauge readings. I pulled and replaced the sender and preventatively changed the fuel pump while I was in there (@195k miles).

I have a feeling it's due to the "repaired" wiring going to my fuel pump. You can see all the tape wrapped around the wires. I could not for the life of me get the connector apart to try to see what was going on with the wire under the tape.

Anyone know the trick for this type of connector?

 

[abuck99]

I have a feeling it's due to the "repaired" wiring going to my fuel pump. You can see all the tape wrapped around the wires. I could not for the life of me get the connector apart to try to see what was going on with the wire under the tape.

Anyone know the trick for this type of connector?

View attachment 1976561

Thats stock wiring wrap- its not been repaired as far as I can tell. It has foam under the tape to insulate/protect the wires going into each side of the connector.

I dont see any reason to disconnect that plug to work on the fuel pump. You can remove negative batt cable if your concerned. If you still wish to remove it read on. I just did this a few days ago.

Ok the connector on mine was a Mo-Fo to get apart; you're not alone. Between dirt and sand falling into my eyes and mouth and trying not to break a wire or the mounting tab, I fiddled with it for 10min. Spray it off liberally with some maf or electrical cleaner because small debris or pebbles get lodged under the release tab. Push down the tab and try to walk the connector off, also there are two small nubs on either side of the connector towards the end, these lock the connector into place. You can gently use a pick too to release the connector off the nub and maybe walk the other side off. Just be gentle- its 15+years old and brittle- you dont want to create a new problem.

May the force be with you