Builds Alaskan Cruiser build (1 Viewer)

[FJ907Warrior]

Actually was able to crop a Facebook video I posted of it starting up last week before I really went to town on the above.

Any thoughts on the noise would be greatly appreciated! Actual timing and tuning would probably be a good start

Don't mind the vice grips

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Definitely having a extreme blow by issue now, didn't have that on it's first start up. Don't know if it's common, but piston rings seemed to have disintegrated.
Also not getting oil to the valves, post 2nd oil change it's easy to determine things got clogged. No metal flakes tho, so definitely a rebuild able block.

Figure if a rebuild is in order, might as well rebuild a 2F to put in. Put my feelers out and found one (1984 block) with 180 miles when pulled, a runner but been sitting outside on the ground for a hot minute. Also found one (1985 block) about to get pulled for a Diesel swap.

So two local blocks I'll be taking a gander at when I'm back from work. Regardless of which one I get, it's going to have a rebuild done. Not going to get myself in this pickle a 2nd time.

Now start reading up on that swap

 

[JohnnyC]

adjust valves … adjust timing

Need a good tune up

Sounds very advanced … a little advanced is ok … I’m at about 12

Use timing light

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Exciting, Traveling to central Alaska today for the replacement 2F engine!

Got compression before it was pulled, seems kinda high at 150-160 for a engine with 160000 miles (probably more hours) on it.

Planning to desmog, simplify vacuum, swap manifolds, carburetor and air filter. Any tips are welcome, sure I'll have questions.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Exciting, Traveling to central Alaska today for the replacement 2F engine!

Got compression before it was pulled, seems kinda high at 150-160 for a engine with 160000 miles (probably more hours) on it.

Planning to desmog, simplify vacuum, swap manifolds, carburetor and air filter. Any tips are welcome, sure I'll have questions.

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Rest of compression photos & doners milage

 

[samatulich]

My compression numbers were the same back in 2019. 40+ year old 2F, 170K or better miles.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Got most the smog junk off today.

Cleaning the block for a paint job, but mostly waiting for gaskets to get barged up from Seattle.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Primered and painted....

Had to do something while waiting for gaskets

Going to start cleaning and possibly painting things as they go back on and clean up the gasket surfaces I painted on with some scotch disks.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Got the alternator from the 60 on today, used the 1F lower bracket, and reversed the upper.

Anyone know what (if any) wiring needs changed? Do I need a voltage regulator with a 1985 60s alternator?

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Got the alternator from the 60 on today, used the 1F lower bracket, and reversed the upper.

Anyone know what (if any) wiring needs changed? Do I need a voltage regulator with a 1985 60s alternator?

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Think I found what I needed here for bypassing the external regular:

Cruiser Wiring

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Got the alternator from the 60 on today, used the 1F lower bracket, and reversed the upper.

Anyone know what (if any) wiring needs changed? Do I need a voltage regulator with a 1985 60s alternator

After striking gold on a 71, 72 & 76 in various stages of decay after sitting in moist Alaska surviving min of 20 years of winters and summers I found out I was either going to be cutting them up and building a half decent tub that was going to be ugly or I would need to find a decent tub locally. Not an easy task in Alaska. Finding decent cruisers, they come up for sure, but finding parts.. I found out this was the hard part.

Regardless I finally scored a 69 tub w/title in decent minimum rust condition 300 miles away, day trip. The project started soon after I was off hitch from work.

Started by prepping a frame, it was already torn down to bare Bones. Made it somewhat easy. Unfortunately I was not able to treat the frame as I wanted to, wanting to either sandblast the inside of the channels or acid dip it. Everyone I've heard of in Alaska has shut down or was not able to sandblast the inside of the channel. Knowing I would be tearing this apart next summer for a more thorough rebuild, I opted for doing what treatment I could now and redo it next summer.

Currently I've swapped the disc brake running gear from the 76, the engine, transmission and transfer case. Got the engine running, sounds great! And started to install body panels so I could mate the dash back to the tub as they were cut in half.

I also decided to use the steering column from the 76, so I had to weld in the steering column mount to the firewall. And I've been doing some other body prep.

After spending about a week and a half on it, I got to get some other projects done during my 3 weeks off. I'll be picking this back up when I get back in September.

Thoughts questions and tips always welcome!

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Where are you located? I'm restoring an FJ40 in North Pole. My build thread is: New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-alaskan-fj40-intro-thread.1301094/page-6#post-14876852

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Where are you located? I'm restoring an FJ40 in North Pole. My build thread is: New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-alaskan-fj40-intro-thread.1301094/page-6#post-14876852

I'm in Kenai, been following your build, very nice!

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Was wondering how I was going to plug the Alternator in and have it look somewhere professional.

Ended up getting the original connector sent my way, but already made this so thought I would share.

I used a PAL40 amp fuse (because it was green) sanded the sides of the fuse housing down, cut out the 'fuse' and soldered the wires to the connectors. Sealed it with automotive black hot glue and installed.

Hope it can help anyone out there!

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Engines going to look nicer then the 40

Gaskets take too long to ship to Alaska...

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Been researching on if I could install the FJ60 carburetor on my 40 and get away from the very worn but simple 2Jet rockchester.

Best simplified breakdown I could find for installing was buried in 60 pages here:

87 carb on 79 2F

I am installing a 1987 FJ60 carb on my 79 2F and need help with the connections as they vary greatly from my 79 carb. The 79 2F is fully desmogged. A Idle Mix? B Advancer Port for dizzy? C ? CAP D ? CAP E ? F ? CAP G ? CAP H Choke Breaker, Leave hooked up as from factory I Choke...

forum.ih8mud.com

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And more examples here:

1975 2f FJ40 with 80-87 Aisin Carburetor Advice Needed

My 1975 FJ40 came desmoged with a Weber carburetor installed and what I thought was a factory Aisin carburetor. The Aisin is between 8/80 - 8/87 per the Spector off-road carburetor identifier. I rebuilt the Aisin and installed it and now having a problem I can’t seem to fix so I’m asking for...

forum.ih8mud.com

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Simplified:
Original info by JimC (paraphrased here)...

• A - Idle Mix - Used for infamous "lean drop" FJ60 carb usually has a metal cap over this (drill out to access)
• B - Cap - Decel fuel cut port - Connect to decel fuel cut switch - not used if you ground out your idle solenoid aka "green wire mod"

Green wire mod:

Green Wire Mod question:

Is the green wire modification needed IF the FUEL CUT/DECEL VACUUM SWITCH is connected to the appropriate port on the carb (fuel cut port)?

forum.ih8mud.com

"If you're using a 60-series carb, there will be a white wire and green wire coming from the ICS in the carb. Cut the white wire at the green connector and put a ring terminal on it and ground it to a screw on the air horn, or any point on the carb. The green wire should get switched 12v power."​

• C - Ported vac to distributor - low vac at idle, increases w/ rpms (Cap if retarded point distributor is being used)
• D - CAP - Is HAC - not used
• E - Choke hi-idle screw - Adjust to 1800-2000RPM w/ choke on, engine warm.
• F - CAP
• G - CAP - More HAC - cap em both.
• H - Choke Breaker - Leave hooked up as from factory - to green VTV on carb to middle port top of carb
• I - CAP - Choke Opener - Cap if it makes you happy. It's a vac sink, not a source, so doesn't need capped.
• J - Base idle speed screw - Set to whatever you like w/ engine warm. ~650 rpm
• K - Evap Cannister - Keep, unless you ditch the canister.
• L - CAP - AC Idle up - If you don't have AC. Otherwise gets vacuum from AC idle up VSV on driver

 

[FJ907Warrior]

I do believe I'm ready for my gaskets that should be in tomorrow!!!

Exciting!!!

 

[FJ907Warrior]

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[FJ907Warrior]

Been scratching my head on how to hook up my throttle cable without more modifications to my firewall to accommodate the linkage throttle from my '76 or something that looked homemade or out of place.

While digging through my extra part boxes I stumbled across a bracket that does exactly what I need. No idea what it's off, none of my part 40s, no idea I even had it.
The 71 was cable with the 2 jet Rochester
The 76 had the linkage.
The 72 tub didn't come with anything
All I can figure it was in one of the random boxes of parts in the back of the 76... But no idea honestly.

Either was, was rough for wear, someone had way too many return springs attached to it. Cleaned it up made some minor modifications and I'm planning to run it. Woot!

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Got my rear crankshaft seal in.

Looks like the same size eyeballing it, but I have a felt ring on what assume is the outside (towards transmission) that is not on the original. To my understanding spring always goes towards pressure(in this case the engine).

Confirmation this is correct?

National # 231004

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Get OEM seal. Not worth the hassle with aftermarket ones.