maybe ill run both... I'm crazy like that
Wits-end nut huggers + Aircraft safety wire.
Wits-end nut huggers + Aircraft safety wire.
Again: Check your Knuckle-Nuts ;-) (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter hatzlibutzli
- Start date
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do you know of another kit?
what is exactly missing?
-For use on:6mm*1.0mm 8mm*1.0mm 8mm*1.25mm 10mm*1.25mm 10mm*1.5mm 12mm*1.5mm bolts
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Maybe only 12x1.25mm missing
Guys - always check your nuts before an outing and ensure any 'nutty professors' are actually what they claim to be before buying the product. 
people are really overthinking this.Guys - always check your nuts before an outing and ensure any 'nutty professors' are actually what they claim to be before buying the product.
99 pct of 80's will never break knuckle studs - Mine get checked at least annually when I do oil/coolant changes and other regular service jobs.
I run 255x85x16 inch tires and do some overlanding, and mine have never loosened. My concern is that for 4 months of the year I also install an 800 pound snowplow and plow about 10-15 storms per winter, and that amount of force on my front axle is well beyond anything Toyota ever planned for the vehicle. So some extra insurance is worth the time and effort in my situation. If I wasn't abusing my truck this way I wouldn't bother with the extra work to make absolutely certain nothing was coming apart. It's really amazing that the truck can handle the load at all considering the forces involved. Plowing snow is super hard on any truck.
This is how all my suspension bolts and nuts are marked-easy inspection. Knuckle studs are useless because they get covered in dirt pretty quick.
Only wrench that has a flat enough head to fit between the dust shield is the
VIM Tools DPW1417
this was recommended by pablovta and cruiserdrew. perfect length to do a quick check, and just perfect to slide onto those nuts up against the dust shield.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
@FirstToy Yep, that’s the tool I use. Different brand but basically the same. Makes it super easy.
Amazon product ASIN B08KRHJ3LP
Amazon product ASIN B08KRHJ3LP
Yep, replaced the OEM stuff a long time ago. I have never had a single stud loosen. Been on 37’s for 12 of the last 15 years and made up the difference on 38’s. I service the knuckles at reasonable intervals, which is to say not very often.
Trail Gear bought ARP and I’m guessing they are starting to rebrand that to “TG Super Metal”, which is fine if the price point is lower and they aren’t making it “better”. I wonder who had a meeting and best they could do was Super Metal.
Anyway, the tensioner part of the technology is likely most important since the issue is with the studs. Buying OEM isn’t all that smart when it doesn’t work properly and we’ve all known this literally for decades.
Edit: TG bought All Pro, I put it together looking at ARP stuff on TG site.
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Theres no way Trailgear bought ARP. You know how many race cars would be junk by now if they did????
This has now become one of my trail tools along with its 12/14mm mate!
17/19 is 14.5” long
17/19 is 14.5” long
I thought it was strange and you are right, I was looking at ARP stuff on TG and saw ”AP a Trail Gear company”.
Point remains that the problem is the stud so checking your nutz all the time is just agreeing to deal with a dangerous design flaw that you hope doesn’t present during eyeballing intervals. ARP or Landtank studs that address this problem are about as cost effective a fix as you can get for a serious design problem.
This forum is lore for making simple things as difficult as possible, though, so on we go.
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I really don’t see it as a design problem as the front axle was never designed to run the big ass tires that we do.
Most issues with the Knuckle bolts stem from improper torque values when the front end is rebuilt.
That being said, after installing an ARP knuckle Bolts and adding Hydro assist I’ve had zero problems with Knuckle bolts coming loose, even running 39s and running extreme trails.
Most issues with the Knuckle bolts stem from improper torque values when the front end is rebuilt.
That being said, after installing an ARP knuckle Bolts and adding Hydro assist I’ve had zero problems with Knuckle bolts coming loose, even running 39s and running extreme trails.
^^^^ this. Properly torque and maintain your stuff
Get ARPs or pay the money to get front range or hellfire knuckles. That’s kinda it…
Fixed it for you.
We need to stop suggesting that people get torque right on all of their bolts except knuckle studs. Nut torque doesn’t matter if there is a design flaw in the stud tension at recommended torque value.
I’d like to hear from anybody who has installed ARP and still has to check their nutz because the (stud) torque was backing off. 2 decades+ of talking about this. On a Jeep forum everybody would buy the fix and move on, it’s only in a world where Toyota can do no wrong do these basic issues recur over and over again with ‘yer gonna die’ warnings.
If you don’t want a design flaw, buy the fix. It could not possibly be more simple.
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Just check your nuts.Fixed it for you.
We need to stop suggesting that people get torque right on all of their bolts except knuckle studs. Nut torque doesn’t matter if there is a design flaw in the stud tension at recommended torque value.
I’d like to hear from anybody who has installed ARP and still has to check their nutz because the (stud) torque was backing off. 2 decades+ of talking about this. On a Jeep forum everybody would buy the fix and move on, it’s only in a world where Toyota can do no wrong do these basic issues recur over and over again with ‘yer gonna die’ warnings.
If you don’t want a design flaw, buy the fix. It could not possibly be more simple.
If your paranoid. Then use lock wire or nut huggers or even trailgear
CHECK YOUR NUTS!!!
Whatever NayFixed it for you.
We need to stop suggesting that people get torque right on all of their bolts except knuckle studs. Nut torque doesn’t matter if there is a design flaw in the stud tension at recommended torque value.
I’d like to hear from anybody who has installed ARP and still has to check their nutz because the (stud) torque was backing off. 2 decades+ of talking about this. On a Jeep forum everybody would buy the fix and move on, it’s only in a world where Toyota can do no wrong do these basic issues recur over and over again with ‘yer gonna die’ warnings.
If you don’t want a design flaw, buy the fix. It could not possibly be more simple.
You don't have to read the thread or even come onto Mud and you certainly don't need to fix anything for me.
Stock 80 stock studs OEM tires proper torque zero problem.
GOOD NIGHT
Or just do what I do, Keep driving until you hear a BANG . Then hope you carry enough spare parts to get going again.
