Again: Check your Knuckle-Nuts ;-) (2 Viewers)

[landtank]

As I see it there is a design choice on the original studs that lends itself to loosening.

The cone washer only interfaces with the shank of the stud by 2mm. This doesn’t provide a lot of clamping force on the stud to prevent it from backing out.

On my studs I extended the shoulder by 7mm so it actually passes through the entire cone washer plus a little more to ensure full engagement and provide maximum clamping force.

Other aftermarket studs that I’ve seen have have just copied the original design but made the studs stronger. Not sure about the ARPs. As I haven’t seen them.

I run 35” tires and the situation was getting tiresome so I did something about it.

If your running 37” tires and the factory studs with no issues, I’m thinking you aren’t wheeling hard enough.

 

[hatzlibutzli]

And again!

Regards Simon

 

[SNLC]

Never ever had a problem with knuckle studs and I run my Cruisers hard.

I always clean the studs hole 100%, if reusing old studs same thing. Run a tap down the holes to get them extra clean. Then I set them with red loctite nice and snug. When all done I mark them with a paint pen so I can quickly look and see if they have moved. Zero issues.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Not that I've ever seen, and I wonder why. On all essential aircraft fasteners it is pretty much mandatory, but not on automotive fasteners that would also present a severe safety issue if they loosen. Wouldn't it make sense to lock wire them? Why wouldn't you?

I used to work a lot on old Nissan Patrols. They use safety wire on all kinds of things including diff cap bolts. Some old 40’s use it here and there but not nearly as much as the old Patrols.

Nothing wrong with safety wire but you are going to have to drill the hardware and possibly use castle nuts. Also use proper safety wire (most is stainless) and proper safety wire pliers.

Cheers

 

[thatcabledude]

Never ever had a problem with knuckle studs and I run my Cruisers hard.

I always clean the studs hole 100%, if reusing old studs same thing. Run a tap down the holes to get them extra clean. Then I set them with red loctite nice and snug. When all done I mark them with a paint pen so I can quickly look and see if they have moved. Zero issues.

Cheers

Every time I read threads like this I’m like

because I just don’t have this issue and feel like I’m a poser or something.

 

[SNLC]

Every time I read threads like this I’m like

View attachment 3431633

because I just don’t have this issue and feel like I’m a poser or something.

I hammer on my 80, lots of rough rocky trails. My Yokohama’s are going to be toast from rock rash, cuts, sidewall slices and gouges way before the tread is worn down. I also do lots of 30-55mph on rough terrain, rough enough to bottom out the suspension. Even hit cattle guards at 65+mph on gravel roads trying to get airborne. Then there is the 80 I rolled in the dunes, took that one to Baja and back, KoH and lots of off-roading. Or my old 60-series. Or the dozens we have done for customers. Patrols (old ones 1960-90) didn’t use cone washers on the knuckle caps. Arms is cast into the knuckle, still modified the caps to take cone washers like an 80, because it is a design that works. Never had them come loose on a Patrol either.

Again, never ever had an issue.

Cheers

 

[BILT4ME]

I hammer on my 80, lots of rough rocky trails. My Yokohama’s are going to be toast from rock rash, cuts, sidewall slices and gouges way before the tread is worn down. I also do lots of 30-55mph on rough terrain, rough enough to bottom out the suspension. Even hit cattle guards at 65+mph on gravel roads trying to get airborne. Then there is the 80 I rolled in the dunes, took that one to Baja and back, KoH and lots of off-roading. Or my old 60-series. Or the dozens we have done for customers. Patrols (old ones 1960-90) didn’t use cone washers on the knuckle caps. Arms is cast into the knuckle, still modified the caps to take cone washers like an 80, because it is a design that works. Never had them come loose on a Patrol either.

Again, never ever had an issue.

Cheers

Do you actually torque the studs into the knuckle or just snug them?

If so, how much?

I have my way and I got hammered from the group early on, now everyone is recommending to do it the way I do. Same as yours with a torque spec.

 

[OGBeno]

Every time I read threads like this I’m like

View attachment 3431633

because I just don’t have this issue and feel like I’m a poser or something.

Do moar drugz and all of these threads/posts begin to make some semblance of sense.

 

[bj70bc]

NOW I know why th PZ isnt done yet

 

[Broski]

Every time I read threads like this I’m like

View attachment 3431633

because I just don’t have this issue.

Maybe it has something thing to do with proper maintenance and torque values

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Do moar drugz and all of these threads/posts begin to make some semblance of sense.

I'm down........

 

[SNLC]

Maybe it has something thing to do with proper maintenance and torque values

One thing is for sure, HF torque wrenchs are garbage.

Cheers

 

[John McVicker]

And here is how I check my nuts. Not absolutely necessary to have a torque wrench. Just remember, ‘Good n Tight‘ means just that.


17m offset wrench, a pipe to use as a breaker bar and then some torque paint to help identify anything loose.

 

[largeone]

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the paint to stick with all the grease and 90wt all over the nuts and studs? Help please!

 

[John McVicker]

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the paint to stick with all the grease and 90wt all over the nuts and studs? Help please!

Rebuild your knuckles & the leaks will not be an issue.

 

[NorthWA]

Magic fairy dust or try degreaser and elbow grease with possible knuckle rebuild in the future if you want to stop the mess.

 

[landtank]

IMO part of it is that once a faster yields it needs to be replaced. Just like wheel studs, if you find loose nuts it’s often from a bad faster that hasn’t been replaced.

Once a stud yields it will never hold torque again. And with the thread pitch difference between each end the problem is exacerbated.

So the problem actually gets worse after the first incident.

 

[largeone]

So i am thinking of bringing my LC Stateside from Mexico.

I am both Mexican and US citizen.

Does anyone know what this entails import-wise? I know it is not a simple answer but any general pointers would help.

Cheers!

Rebuild your knuckles & the leaks will not be an issue.

Haha...I was just being sarcastic. Although I do have one side that is starting to show the need. This will be my 3rd knuckle rebuild over the many years. Need to fix a front pinion seal leak while I'm at it. Will probably replace the studs this time as well.

 

[sunrk]

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the paint to stick with all the grease and 90wt all over the nuts and studs? Help please!

Degrease the heck out of them first so when you check the torque the outside faces don't have seeped grease on them. Then paint marker pen markings will work.

If there is no grease coming out via the wipers there's not enough grease inside the swivel hub spaces in my view. Also remember the top kingpin bearing can really never be replenished with grease via the square plug.

 

[mudgudgeon]

IMO part of it is that once a faster yields it needs to be replaced. Just like wheel studs, if you find loose nuts it’s often from a bad faster that hasn’t been replaced.

Once a stud yields it will never hold torque again. And with the thread pitch difference between each end the problem is exacerbated.

So the problem actually gets worse after the first incident.

This makes a lot of sense.
Every cruiser I've had, I've changed hub studs because previous mechanics have beaten shìt out of them to release cone washers, or over torqued them.

Sounds like knuckle studs should almost be treated as single use fasteners too.
I haven't rebuilt knuckles on my current cruiser, but did find the knuckle studs loose on one side. I have new hardware waiting for a rebuild.
For the cost of new studs, swapping them as a routine part of a knuckle rebuild is kind of a no brainer