After market seat heaters in an FJ40?
- Thread starter Chamba
- Start date
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Not rusty, I think I have a pic here some place. The only 40 I've bought from knocking on the door and asking. I put miles on that one than any other.
The only rusty one I've had was my first when I was 15, in 1986. 1973 FST that had a factory top and bows. I tossed those the first day. I know.......... When it left my garage when I was 16 it was primer gray. Replaced the rear sill, bolted the hood to the fenders and bib. Cut the fenders out and made it a tilt front end using the bin hinge. I blew out so many headlights as the tow hook hit them.
In HS I raced it in the HS drags. It ran 17.70's all day long. I took second place and still have the Woodburn Drag script paper showing my 40. Top off, wind screen down having a blast.
The '82 I sold to a younger man from Beaverton. I've only seen it twice on the freeway. That was a nice original truck. My black Lab and I made a circle through southern Oregon up to Joseph and back with the doors off. It was epic.
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
- Thread starter
- #45
AATLAS1X said:
Yip, I've thrown away lots of Cruiser stuff I wish I had back. I parted out a one owner '76 with 72,000 original miles because the rear sill was rusty. I needed the fenders, hood and rear doors for my troopy, so apart it came. I paid $800 for it, sold the top and doors for $500, the disc brake axle/booster for $300, gave away the engine/Tranny/transfer (it's still going strong in my cousin's '73) and took the rest to capital scrap for about $100 or so. Oh well.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
This will be somewhat of a double post because I just updated my build thread, but for guys who are searching for seat heater installs, I'm going to put it here too.
First off, the Tuffy console with the radio compartment is not really a good fit between the FJ40 seats. I really have to squeeze it in there and I'm pretty sure the driver's seat won't slide easily now. I also had to take my newly powdercoated lever and put an elbow mid way down the shaft to work with the Tuffy console. Bummer.
I decided to mount my seat heaters to the front of the console as opposed to the dash. There was a lot of "measure three times, cut once" involved in this. I also added a 12v socket and a dual USB charger as well just for grins.
Anyway, here are some photos:
Scribed and ready to cut. Notice I positioned everything where it will cover or remove the existing cup holder holes. Also, I used a sheet metal punch to cut the holes for the chargers:
I used the modular carling switch brackets from Air On Board. The openings are too large for the provided seat switches. The widths are good, just too tall. A bit of shimming is all that'll be needed to get them to mount nicely:
The rear light switch will control the spare tire mounted flood light I'm planning to use and I'm adding interior lights using red LED lights. This will preserve night vision and since it'll look a bit like a battle ship CIC, I figured "zombie Lights" wasn't too far off. I also used nut-serts to hold the charger faceplates, which I thought was a nice touch.
Heater switches mounted up and all done!
Lastly, making a cut for the pleat in the heater element was not an option for me as I had already had the seats recovered by a local shop and couldn't see how to remove the wire buried deep inside the frame that secured the pleat between the foam cushions without destroying the foam. All I did was remove the hog nose rings around the cushion base and pulled the cover up to slide in the heater element.
First off, the Tuffy console with the radio compartment is not really a good fit between the FJ40 seats. I really have to squeeze it in there and I'm pretty sure the driver's seat won't slide easily now. I also had to take my newly powdercoated lever and put an elbow mid way down the shaft to work with the Tuffy console. Bummer.
I decided to mount my seat heaters to the front of the console as opposed to the dash. There was a lot of "measure three times, cut once" involved in this. I also added a 12v socket and a dual USB charger as well just for grins.
Anyway, here are some photos:
Scribed and ready to cut. Notice I positioned everything where it will cover or remove the existing cup holder holes. Also, I used a sheet metal punch to cut the holes for the chargers:
I used the modular carling switch brackets from Air On Board. The openings are too large for the provided seat switches. The widths are good, just too tall. A bit of shimming is all that'll be needed to get them to mount nicely:
The rear light switch will control the spare tire mounted flood light I'm planning to use and I'm adding interior lights using red LED lights. This will preserve night vision and since it'll look a bit like a battle ship CIC, I figured "zombie Lights" wasn't too far off. I also used nut-serts to hold the charger faceplates, which I thought was a nice touch.
Heater switches mounted up and all done!
Lastly, making a cut for the pleat in the heater element was not an option for me as I had already had the seats recovered by a local shop and couldn't see how to remove the wire buried deep inside the frame that secured the pleat between the foam cushions without destroying the foam. All I did was remove the hog nose rings around the cushion base and pulled the cover up to slide in the heater element.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
Not really great ones, but here are a few shots of the seats.
Here are the heater element leads coming out of the cushions:
I'd go take some for you but I've already got the seats (and everything else) removed for body and paint work and they are in storage right now.
This is what it looked like last week... before re-disassembly:
Here are the heater element leads coming out of the cushions:
I'd go take some for you but I've already got the seats (and everything else) removed for body and paint work and they are in storage right now.
This is what it looked like last week... before re-disassembly:
Where did you end up with the switches? Are they installed yet?
Warm seat on a cold morning - now that'll be something!
I understand you're predicament with regard to getting jobs done in the cruiser.....
I'm still in the NT - when I return I'll be heading to NSW so I doubt I'll have much time to sort out anything with my steering (but I'll try).
I'll have to swing past Chris's workshop to pick up an air filter and check to see if he has a set of shackles.
I understand you're predicament with regard to getting jobs done in the cruiser.....
I'm still in the NT - when I return I'll be heading to NSW so I doubt I'll have much time to sort out anything with my steering (but I'll try).
I'll have to swing past Chris's workshop to pick up an air filter and check to see if he has a set of shackles.
wow!! that is sweet!!! do you have more info on where you got this stuff
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
- Thread starter
- #53
Hello lads,
Quick update: time has been tight, but I have wired my seat (in time for our first snow of the season and first hard freeze) and it works fantastically well! I have not mounted the switch yet but have purchased the 3/4" drill bit to do so.
Once I get the switch mounted I'll post pics of the wiring and install. Suffice to say I LOVE this upgrade. Why have I waited so long? I can't wait for roof and door off season!
Quick update: time has been tight, but I have wired my seat (in time for our first snow of the season and first hard freeze) and it works fantastically well! I have not mounted the switch yet but have purchased the 3/4" drill bit to do so.
Once I get the switch mounted I'll post pics of the wiring and install. Suffice to say I LOVE this upgrade. Why have I waited so long? I can't wait for roof and door off season!
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
This is how I type when I'm jealous. Can you tell?
Very cool! I'm going to have to think up a way to one-up you with the 45 now.
Dan
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
- Thread starter
- #55
DanS HJ-45 said:This is how I type when I'm jealous. Can you tell?
Very cool! I'm going to have to think up a way to one-up you with the 45 now.
Dan
I'd say you've done it with the 1hz, turbo, 60 series power steering and frame off....once you do it, that is
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
I'd say you've done it with the 1hz, turbo, 60 series power steering and frame off....once you do it, that is
You know about compartmentalization. I need to top the seats.
And, the current plan isn't for 60 series power steering anymore, remember?
Dan
I hear an 80s box is where it's at 
;p
;p
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
- Thread starter
- #58
Purists: Avert thine eyes!
OK, sorry for the delay, but when you only get to wrench at night after your son goes to bed, work proceeds slowly.
First, I mounted the relay and wiring harness to the bottom of the seat using zip ties. I can only just hear the relay click when I turn it on but cannot feel it at all through the seat bottom.
Second, I wired the power up to my factory air con unit wiring using a spare male connector I had so it would click right into the existing harness (I replaced the factory unit with a Yokohama 747 unit as the factory unit was just not up to the task of cooling during the Australian furnace season... and now rarely use it in beautiful New Mexico). I did this because the seats use 10 amps each when on high and the factory air con is rated at 20 amps, so it was ideally suited. It was also an ign 'on' power source, so no chance of leaving the seats on and killing the battery. I did not want to hook it to the heater for obvious reasons (I'd likely be using seat heat and factory heat at the same time and would overload the circuit). This wire came with an inline 10 amp fuse and 55" of wiring, so I did not have to add a thing to reach the power source. I then zip tied the wires to the existing harness running to the rear of the car for seat belt and hand brake lights (no rear heater fitted to this rig as it is an Aussie spec and I rarely even used the front heater over there). Before mounting the seat heat switch, I tested it and it worked like a champ.
Third, the part I found hardest: where to mount the driver's switch. After toying with a number of locations which would require fabricating a bracket (and realising that none were in a very convenient location) I reluctantly decided to cut the dash. I bought a 3/4" drill bit, marked the location with an awl (this is the part which may affect some purists viscerally and for that I appologise), drilled a 1/8" pilot hole, moved to a 1/2" drill bit and finally to the 3/4" drill bit. I then smoothed the edges of the hole with my dremmel, touched up the cut edges with some 6L4 touch up paint and let it dry for about 10 minutes while I lengthened the switch harness.
Fourth, I measured the distance I would need to run the wire with a piece of string, subtracted the 12" harness from that length and found I needed to add 41" of 14 gauge wire to my harness. I spliced the wires about 2" from the female plug, soldered, shrink wrapped each wire and then wrapped the entire new harness in electrical tape for durability.
Finally, I tested the new harness to make sure it worked and then installed the switch in my new hole. Sunday at dawn I drove to my 'other' job flying planes which is about an hour from here and made the whole drive with the factory heater off but the seat heater toasting my backside beautifully. I am not sure why I waited so long to do this... what a fantastic addition to a fantastic rig.
Now to figure out where to mount the passenger switch......
OK, sorry for the delay, but when you only get to wrench at night after your son goes to bed, work proceeds slowly.
First, I mounted the relay and wiring harness to the bottom of the seat using zip ties. I can only just hear the relay click when I turn it on but cannot feel it at all through the seat bottom.
Second, I wired the power up to my factory air con unit wiring using a spare male connector I had so it would click right into the existing harness (I replaced the factory unit with a Yokohama 747 unit as the factory unit was just not up to the task of cooling during the Australian furnace season... and now rarely use it in beautiful New Mexico). I did this because the seats use 10 amps each when on high and the factory air con is rated at 20 amps, so it was ideally suited. It was also an ign 'on' power source, so no chance of leaving the seats on and killing the battery. I did not want to hook it to the heater for obvious reasons (I'd likely be using seat heat and factory heat at the same time and would overload the circuit). This wire came with an inline 10 amp fuse and 55" of wiring, so I did not have to add a thing to reach the power source. I then zip tied the wires to the existing harness running to the rear of the car for seat belt and hand brake lights (no rear heater fitted to this rig as it is an Aussie spec and I rarely even used the front heater over there). Before mounting the seat heat switch, I tested it and it worked like a champ.
Third, the part I found hardest: where to mount the driver's switch. After toying with a number of locations which would require fabricating a bracket (and realising that none were in a very convenient location) I reluctantly decided to cut the dash. I bought a 3/4" drill bit, marked the location with an awl (this is the part which may affect some purists viscerally and for that I appologise), drilled a 1/8" pilot hole, moved to a 1/2" drill bit and finally to the 3/4" drill bit. I then smoothed the edges of the hole with my dremmel, touched up the cut edges with some 6L4 touch up paint and let it dry for about 10 minutes while I lengthened the switch harness.
Fourth, I measured the distance I would need to run the wire with a piece of string, subtracted the 12" harness from that length and found I needed to add 41" of 14 gauge wire to my harness. I spliced the wires about 2" from the female plug, soldered, shrink wrapped each wire and then wrapped the entire new harness in electrical tape for durability.
Finally, I tested the new harness to make sure it worked and then installed the switch in my new hole. Sunday at dawn I drove to my 'other' job flying planes which is about an hour from here and made the whole drive with the factory heater off but the seat heater toasting my backside beautifully. I am not sure why I waited so long to do this... what a fantastic addition to a fantastic rig.
Now to figure out where to mount the passenger switch......
Last edited:
Very nice!
Looks good Josh,
I thought that you were going to use the old A/C controller?
My thoughts on the passenger switch is to mount next to the drivers switch. That way you have them both in quick reach.
Dan
I thought that you were going to use the old A/C controller?
My thoughts on the passenger switch is to mount next to the drivers switch. That way you have them both in quick reach.
Dan
