Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser (6 Viewers)

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Great spitballing here. No harm in mental gymnastics. Best use of time is becoming ever more clear as years go by. You have time to mess around and get your plan together. Rushing it usually does not pan out. I was at a well known hot rod shop once speaking with the owner and he shared some words of experience “my best mechanics/shop crew have come from guys who spent time sweeping the shop floor”. Watching how the sausage is made prevents all kinds of f’ups down the road.
 
I have been a mechanic my entire life. I have made good living as a licensed aircraft mechanic and once owned my own automotive shop. In the end I enjoy aircraft work as my daily profession and automotive as my hobby. The aircraft industry is currently having a major shortage of qualified mechanics. Find an A&P (Airframe and Powerplant) school and get started, the airlines are hiring and pay well. Oh and I love my slow FJ60, good excuse to not be a hurry to get where I am going.
 
Major Update!( posted further in-depth on this other thread as well:)

Looking for input on and creative ways to ship cruiser to Idaho where landed a job at a cool JDM shop doing a little wrenching but mainly business dev work for them. My strength. Very excited-
Anyway the LA shop said machine shop is almost done with build but am freaked out by the $7700 quote he sent. Because of this and Now that I have a shop to work in along with more inner confidence and yearning I want to tackle the reinstall and make the 60 whole again, and not deal with the pain having it hostage. Considering driving down and using A uhaul mini trailer to take It back up or just pay for the parts, complete engine, and the cruiser to be shipped back up via a recommended mudship guy. It seems to makes sense intellectually, but might not financially with my last mudship quote being $2700 for the LA Idaho route.
Regardless, I can’t say how much of a struggle bus it feels I have been on and it feels like the clouds have parted some!
Anyway Hope y’all are well, Maybe I’ll finally reach :banana::banana: and get to hit the trials with you guys after all??😂😂
Dan
 
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Cruiser shipped back, completed engine (minus assembly of head and block together) and all items in the back. Everything’s paid for and gunna finish what I started. Exhausted, but I’m still here
Thanks for all your prior comments
Beehanger

AFA52960-61AE-4969-AD70-DCB32F5CF1EA.jpeg
 
For the record paid $3400 for the rebuild and $1440 for the original uninstall. It stings but could have been worse, learned to negotiate quotes upfront- to be less naive - and to really choose the people you trust with your stuff and money
 
Update! Been grinding on the weekends to get everything semi sorted and cleaned. engines out of the truck and every part that was in there has been taken out. Our head mechanic that Im gunna pay 27 an hour to help me has been out most weekends so ive just been killing time until he's ready. As I get closer to getting this beast running again I'm noticing a lot more things that need to get done. It's a long one dammit. I'm posting here so I can have my line of thinking verified on certain items. I've briefly asked some mechanics/friends but I want your guys take if possible. Posting pictures below. Trying not to waste people's time with all these questions, so ive bolded out most important things.

While cleaning the intake mani on a wire wheel I noticed a small pinhole sized leak in it. Gunna take to a metal fab shop so they can fix it.

The shop didn't label lifters. So im getting them machined. this this is necessary correct?

There's rust everywhere, no parts were wiped in the 1.5 years they sat around that shop s they've got some nice surface rust going. I've decided to wire wheel what I can and paint over the scraped rust. Is this a bad idea?

Engine, transmission, have surface rust on them which I;m going to scrape off with wd40 and metal brushes. will this be enough to get it off? after doing some scrub tests the matng surfaces still have dark spots of rust even though everything is smoothed out. If i use more elbow grease with the sandpaper I might warp the surface so so far ive left the dark spots. Is this a bad idea?

Engine builder friend thought I should disassemble what they've done so far with the head mechanic at my shop to double check the machines shops work considering it really looks like they didn't do me any favors. They didn't spray the engine with wd40 and the front of the block was uncovered. Is this a bad idea for liability reasons?

They also claim rockers need to be "polished" but my mechanic buddy says he sees nothing wrong with them. What the f*** is polishing mean beyond wiping it with some degreaser..?

My fuel level and oil pressure gauges don't work anymore ---- do I need to have this fixed before I break in the engine?

I think the bulk of everything made it in the shipment and figure I can go to a junkyard an hour away where two fj60's live and get parts that are missing vs waiting on the airhead in LA to ship them even if he can find them. Do most mudders go to junkyards for things or is this bad practice?

I got the number of the machine shop one of the boxes and am going to call them asking for refunds on things they quoted me on and I prepaid for but they didn't do. Pretty pissed off.
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Beehanger
 
Engine builder friend thought I should disassemble what they've done so far
If you don’t trust them - nothing is guaranteed. Yeah- examine what they claim they did
My fuel level and oil pressure gauges don't work anymore ---- do I need to have this fixed before I break in the engine?
No not at all.


Do most mudders go to junkyards for things or is this bad practice?
Finding a FJ60 in a junkyard is exceedingly rare. Its a gold mine. Definitely scavenge as many parts off those two vehicles as you can. Everything.
 
Update! Been grinding on the weekends to get everything semi sorted and cleaned. engines out of the truck and every part that was in there has been taken out. Our head mechanic that Im gunna pay 27 an hour to help me has been out most weekends so ive just been killing time until he's ready. As I get closer to getting this beast running again I'm noticing a lot more things that need to get done. It's a long one dammit. I'm posting here so I can have my line of thinking verified on certain items. I've briefly asked some mechanics/friends but I want your guys take if possible. Posting pictures below. Trying not to waste people's time with all these questions, so ive bolded out most important things.

While cleaning the intake mani on a wire wheel I noticed a small pinhole sized leak in it. Gunna take to a metal fab shop so they can fix it.

The shop didn't label lifters. So im getting them machined. this this is necessary correct?

There's rust everywhere, no parts were wiped in the 1.5 years they sat around that shop s they've got some nice surface rust going. I've decided to wire wheel what I can and paint over the scraped rust. Is this a bad idea?

Engine, transmission, have surface rust on them which I;m going to scrape off with wd40 and metal brushes. will this be enough to get it off? after doing some scrub tests the matng surfaces still have dark spots of rust even though everything is smoothed out. If i use more elbow grease with the sandpaper I might warp the surface so so far ive left the dark spots. Is this a bad idea?

Engine builder friend thought I should disassemble what they've done so far with the head mechanic at my shop to double check the machines shops work considering it really looks like they didn't do me any favors. They didn't spray the engine with wd40 and the front of the block was uncovered. Is this a bad idea for liability reasons?

They also claim rockers need to be "polished" but my mechanic buddy says he sees nothing wrong with them. What the f*** is polishing mean beyond wiping it with some degreaser..?

My fuel level and oil pressure gauges don't work anymore ---- do I need to have this fixed before I break in the engine?

I think the bulk of everything made it in the shipment and figure I can go to a junkyard an hour away where two fj60's live and get parts that are missing vs waiting on the airhead in LA to ship them even if he can find them. Do most mudders go to junkyards for things or is this bad practice?

I got the number of the machine shop one of the boxes and am going to call them asking for refunds on things they quoted me on and I prepaid for but they didn't do. Pretty pissed off.
---------------

Beehanger
I think it is nice to have someway to confirm your oil pump is working during the first starts. Oil pressure gauge is one way. Another would be to leave the valve cover off and watch that oil makes it up there.
 
Update! Been grinding on the weekends to get everything semi sorted and cleaned. engines out of the truck and every part that was in there has been taken out. Our head mechanic that Im gunna pay 27 an hour to help me has been out most weekends so ive just been killing time until he's ready. As I get closer to getting this beast running again I'm noticing a lot more things that need to get done. It's a long one dammit. I'm posting here so I can have my line of thinking verified on certain items. I've briefly asked some mechanics/friends but I want your guys take if possible. Posting pictures below. Trying not to waste people's time with all these questions, so ive bolded out most important things.

While cleaning the intake mani on a wire wheel I noticed a small pinhole sized leak in it. Gunna take to a metal fab shop so they can fix it.

The shop didn't label lifters. So im getting them machined. this this is necessary correct?

There's rust everywhere, no parts were wiped in the 1.5 years they sat around that shop s they've got some nice surface rust going. I've decided to wire wheel what I can and paint over the scraped rust. Is this a bad idea?

Engine, transmission, have surface rust on them which I;m going to scrape off with wd40 and metal brushes. will this be enough to get it off? after doing some scrub tests the matng surfaces still have dark spots of rust even though everything is smoothed out. If i use more elbow grease with the sandpaper I might warp the surface so so far ive left the dark spots. Is this a bad idea?

Engine builder friend thought I should disassemble what they've done so far with the head mechanic at my shop to double check the machines shops work considering it really looks like they didn't do me any favors. They didn't spray the engine with wd40 and the front of the block was uncovered. Is this a bad idea for liability reasons?

They also claim rockers need to be "polished" but my mechanic buddy says he sees nothing wrong with them. What the f*** is polishing mean beyond wiping it with some degreaser..?

My fuel level and oil pressure gauges don't work anymore ---- do I need to have this fixed before I break in the engine?

I think the bulk of everything made it in the shipment and figure I can go to a junkyard an hour away where two fj60's live and get parts that are missing vs waiting on the airhead in LA to ship them even if he can find them. Do most mudders go to junkyards for things or is this bad practice?

I got the number of the machine shop one of the boxes and am going to call them asking for refunds on things they quoted me on and I prepaid for but they didn't do. Pretty pissed off.
---------------

Beehanger


Absolutely go over what the other shop did. Plenty of horror stories and 1/2 @ss work. Verify it’s done correct.
 
Absolutely go over what the other shop did. Plenty of horror stories and 1/2 @ss work. Verify it’s done correct.
Talked to the mechanic at my shop that’s helping me, he said that we don’t have the tools necessary to rebuild it after bare block. I think the best bet is to examine it and go with their assembly, might have to take a shot in the dark here with that.

They left the lifters out of order, but My mechanic said they look smooth and we can just use them. Is this agreed??

Assembling the head today and rest of rngine today

Thanks
Beehanger
 
They left the lifters out of order, but My mechanic said they look smooth and we can just use them. Is this agreed??

Each lifter wears into its original matching push rod and cam lobe. They’re matched through wear. If the lifters get mixed up with different push rods, and riding on different cam lobes the mating surfaces will be slightly different — so they’ll wear faster until they break in again. How long will that take? I have no idea.
But you’ll have to keep a close eye on the valve clearances (and adjust them) for at least the first 40,000 miles as the parts will wear in faster than normal.
 
Each lifter wears into its original matching push rod and cam lobe. They’re matched through wear. If the lifters get mixed up with different push rods, and riding on different cam lobes the mating surfaces will be slightly different — so they’ll wear faster until they break in again. How long will that take? I have no idea.
But you’ll have to keep a close eye on the valve clearances (and adjust them) for at least the first 40,000 miles as the parts will wear in faster than normal.
I think I’ll just use them, if it’s easy enough to check in replace I just have to get something in there today
 
Talked to the mechanic at my shop that’s helping me, he said that we don’t have the tools necessary to rebuild it after bare block. I think the best bet is to examine it and go with their assembly, might have to take a shot in the dark here with that.

They left the lifters out of order, but My mechanic said they look smooth and we can just use them. Is this agreed??

Assembling the head today and rest of rngine today

Thanks
Beehanger

I have to read back again, but didn’t they rebuild some of the engine?
What machine work did they do?
Lifters aren’t expensive at all.

If you do go this route check every spec you can and double check all torque values.
Use new break in lube again.

Polishing rockers, they are talking about the pads that touch the valve stems. Gets rid of any wear patterns. However this isn’t something you take the grinder to and take off.

It’s your call, but I’d hate to be this deep in and slap it back together only to take it back out and fix someone’s mess. I don’t have much faith in that shop that just let it sit unfinished and flash rust.
 
Folks,
Things are pretty going well over here so far! Engine is almost together and hoping to have this puppy running in a couple weeks.
Figuring out parts situation etc. Ran into a few hiccups after getting the rig here... engine had some rust on it from sitting without wd40. I've mainly been cleaning parts with wire wheel and trying to order dozens of different items from missing head bolts to a new Clutch kit, and helping assemble engine with one of our mechanics here.

My lack of mechanical ability and being able to move the project at the pace I want it is frustrating. I feel semi helpless without supervision from my mechanic co workers. and its hard to know how to study especially because of the following point::::

Usage of online recourses for diagrams, parts numbers, and ordering has been a learning curve enough. From finding part numbers to finding the right diagrams not included in FSMs has been a task in itself. It's honestly hampering my learning as I can't study enough at night because I don't have the means how. Youtube doesn't have much, and my in person time with the mechanic is only so helpful as he basically just does it without explaining it. If I had the proper diagrams in one spot I'd have a chance. I can't tell you how much time I've wasted chasing my own tail trying to find comprehensive diagrams. For instance the one on the right in attachments Ive seen before but can't remember where... Im never sure if the one Im looking at is comprehensive, so knowing if I have all the parts is super difficult. without a mechanic helping I could literally just roll through a project and be missing parts and not know it. its a scary thought and I need a way to have all the diagrams on how things attach to the engine including all parts listed and stop wasting my time as im on a timetable to get this done and out of the shop.

So....

Where the hell can I find fj60 diagrams all in one spot? I've been through Partsouq and all the posted FSM's on the recourses page,
but I'm noticing that the 2f manual and beyond doesn't have everything.

For instance, I thought I had everything I needed to assemble the head by looking at the FSM diagram but then this second one turns up in my old photos and I realize im lacking the proper nut to screw the cylinder head in... the first diagram never had that in there, let alone the part number or what it is even called.

So what's the best way, from your guys experience teaching youselvess, to find out: what all the parts are in full, and what their part numbers are, and if possible what their function is.


Basically I think I'd get a lot more out of this build process if I had someone explain to me all the recourses they used and how they organize them. I don't have the experience yet to just use intuition or logic to know how things go together.

Ive used all the following links without a complete picture, just bits a pieces.. what are more I can use??:

DIAGRAMS Cylinder block for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60LG - Auto parts - https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/land_cruiser/fj60lg/3692/engine/1105/11434C/


For converting PNC numbers to actual parts numbers Cylinder cover head bolt - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cylinder-cover-head-bolt.1305708/#post-14832770



More FMS Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals


Hope you all are well, as you can tell im a bit frustrated but just at the end of the day happy my rig is coming together even if It's not as efficient as I'd hoped. I try not to ask for help unless I need it but in this instance I actually need people to spell it out for me :/

Best
Dan

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Your first link is one to an electronic parts catalog. However is is linking just to one page of several pages. You asked about the alignment pins which are installed on the block but the valve cover bolts are going to be associated with the head.

You can navigate “up” from the original link to see more pages. You will have to spend time studying all the pages to do what you are asking, I think.

 
Dan, very cool story. Other life events seem to become less trivial longer you work on your own stuff. Most days it is rather lonely when no one around to feel the pain of issues. I’d find a club you can meet up with folks.

If you haven’t already some good resources at CruiserCult. I’ve got a huge resources list with websites as well. If it’s not on mud it probably doesn’t exist.

Run with the winners, there’s a lot of opinions on here, some can be taken negatively however a lot of honesty and at times sting but will shoot you straight. I’m in 2 of new and it’s overwhelming sometimes. I wouldn’t change a thing though. Message me if you have issues finding something I’d love to help if I can.

Neil
 
I agree with all of the previous posts. There are many worse choices than a 62. If you love them, then do it. You will learn a lot and the trial by fire of keeping it running is part of the bonding process. Having one is like getting married. It will take up most of your spare time, drain your bank, it will be moody, it will bring other cruiser heads into your life. You will have greasy finger nails all week long. You won't own it, it will own you.
I didn't know it at the time, but This is proving to be one of the more accurate posts ive ever read as I search for seemingly extinct bolts 60 series bolts at 1 am with my wallet helplessly get shellacked in the corner of the room.
Cheers!
 
I'm laughing with you of course.
Tonight more of the same except I’m Currently sitting in my mechanic clothes in a 4 star restaurant waiting for a margarita pizza— last place open and I’m not eating F***ing twinkies
 

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