Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser

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Beehanger said:
I was losing my mind off of fumes for a bit not gunna lie 😂
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Get her back from mechanic today, He’s a seasoned LC guy and said she needs a new motor soon. He said I can baby her around town for a little while tho. Probably keeping stock and will have the 2F rebuilt but will try to look at some threads with pros and cons. Isn’t the 2F easier to work on than the small block v6 it v8 replacements ( a lot of the reason I purchased was to learn). Also Namely how long will she be out for after I send out for the rebuild? And there’s a new 2F Pre build for $4K the mechanic found, isn’t that a similar cost to having this one rebuilt by that mudder?Just depends how much time it saves me but don’t want to take the heart out of her. He recommended in the meantime changing it out on conventional oil too if I wanna ride it out for a little. No more marathons for this girl for a while.
 
Beehanger said:
Get her back from mechanic today, He’s a seasoned LC guy and said she needs a new motor soon. He said I can baby her around town for a little while tho. Probably keeping stock and will have the 2F rebuilt but will try to look at some threads with pros and cons. Isn’t the 2F easier to work on than the small block v6 it v8 replacements ( a lot of the reason I purchased was to learn). Also Namely how long will she be out for after I send out for the rebuild? And there’s a new 2F Pre build for $4K the mechanic found, isn’t that a similar cost to having this one rebuilt by that mudder?Just depends how much time it saves me but don’t want to take the heart out of her. He recommended in the meantime changing it out on conventional oil too if I wanna ride it out for a little. No more marathons for this girl for a while.
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Beehanger said:
Get her back from mechanic today, He’s a seasoned LC guy and said she needs a new motor soon. He said I can baby her around town for a little while tho. Probably keeping stock and will have the 2F rebuilt but will try to look at some threads with pros and cons. Isn’t the 2F easier to work on than the small block v6 it v8 replacements ( a lot of the reason I purchased was to learn). Also Namely how long will she be out for after I send out for the rebuild? And there’s a new 2F Pre build for $4K the mechanic found, isn’t that a similar cost to having this one rebuilt by that mudder?Just depends how much time it saves me but don’t want to take the heart out of her. He recommended in the meantime changing it out on conventional oil too if I wanna ride it out for a little. No more marathons for this girl for a while.
[/QUOT

On a more fun note, I’m buying some rims off of @majornelson
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Beehanger said:
Get her back from mechanic today, He’s a seasoned LC guy and said she needs a new motor soon. He said I can baby her around town for a little while tho. Probably keeping stock and will have the 2F rebuilt but will try to look at some threads with pros and cons. Isn’t the 2F easier to work on than the small block v6 it v8 replacements ( a lot of the reason I purchased was to learn). Also Namely how long will she be out for after I send out for the rebuild? And there’s a new 2F Pre build for $4K the mechanic found, isn’t that a similar cost to having this one rebuilt by that mudder?Just depends how much time it saves me but don’t want to take the heart out of her. He recommended in the meantime changing it out on conventional oil too if I wanna ride it out for a little. No more marathons for this girl for a while.
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On a more fun note, getting some rims from @MajorNelson , so if anyone is in the seatle area coming to Idaho anytime soon that would want to ferry em let me know! If not I’ll just pay to ship em, gunna drop the lift to about 2 or 2.5 with stock tires and rims. I’m gunna be selling the near brand new 33Inch mudding tires it came with and the rims, wanna pick up either the Goodrich 265/75, 275/70 (heard factory spec is going out of pros tho?) and 285/75/16 whichever will look better with the lift and 16” rims.
 
Beehanger said:
On a more fun note, getting some rims from @MajorNelson , so if anyone is in the seatle area coming to Idaho anytime soon that would want to ferry em let me know! If not I’ll just pay to ship em, gunna drop the lift to about 2 or 2.5 with stock tires and rims. I’m gunna be selling the near brand new 33Inch mudding tires it came with and the rims, wanna pick up either the Goodrich 265/75, 275/70 (heard factory spec is going out of pros tho?) and 285/75/16 whichever will look better with the lift and 16” rims.
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Check out cooper Discovery st maxx 235/85/16Specs
 
Hi all,
Still getting the fuel filling issue, take the cap off-- hear a gurgle and air come out. Only can fill up a gallon or two, three days ago I put in about 77, its sporadic but I garentee unless im getting 30mpg It should be accepting more fuel :rofl:. Bought a vented fuel cap yesterday because I wasn't sure if the one on there from the PO was vented (thats what the mechanic said to put on based on what his sytem had for 1985 LC). Don't think it helped though, but I will say I left the fuel cap off for 20 mins yesterday, put the vented one on, and for my drive home I was getting noticeabley more power ( I highly doubt this was in my head) the knocking and all the noises were still there but I was accelerating faster i could have sworn. Anyway, unresolved, @Seth S didn't you say it might be a venting issue or a pinched hose somewhere? Im gunna have to take it back to the mechanic I think, hopefuly they give me a deal since they did the clogged fuel filter last time and it didn't fix this!

Best
Dan
 
Beehanger said:
Hi all,
Still getting the fuel filling issue, take the cap off-- hear a gurgle and air come out. Only can fill up a gallon or two, three days ago I put in about 77, its sporadic but I garentee unless im getting 30mpg It should be accepting more fuel :rofl:. Bought a vented fuel cap yesterday because I wasn't sure if the one on there from the PO was vented (thats what the mechanic said to put on based on what his sytem had for 1985 LC). Don't think it helped though, but I will say I left the fuel cap off for 20 mins yesterday, put the vented one on, and for my drive home I was getting noticeabley more power ( I highly doubt this was in my head) the knocking and all the noises were still there but I was accelerating faster i could have sworn. Anyway, unresolved, @Seth S didn't you say it might be a venting issue or a pinched hose somewhere? Im gunna have to take it back to the mechanic I think, hopefuly they give me a deal since they did the clogged fuel filter last time and it didn't fix this!

Best
Dan
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Other than that, enjoying the rig, taking it one project at a time. Wish I knew more so I could DIY, I am changing the oil to conventioanl in the next few days myself which will be cool, first time. Throwing in Carquest 10w 30, the LC shop here recommended I use convenntional for the engine. Also If anyone recommends a good LC manual for the 60 ill buy it tonight haha, do some night reading. Btw, I'm seeing the mechanic again Monday to get this fueling issue checked out, unless yall think I can youtube it and do it myself hahah. They'll give me a loaner for the day. One of the LC guys in town also thinks I need a new engine soon which ive heard three times now (like I said, knocking, burning oil). Is what it is, still happy with the rust and leak free pruchase, I can drive it for now but come spring I may be looking at a rebuild or throwing in a 3fe or 2f. Was hoping to wait longer so I could save up for a nice v8 but I figure if I want to do that down the road I can always sell a recently rebuilt 2f or 3fe. Thanks for all your help everyone, wouldn't trade this process for anything.

Cheers,
Dan
 
Beehanger said:
Hi all,
Still getting the fuel filling issue, take the cap off-- hear a gurgle and air come out. Only can fill up a gallon or two, three days ago I put in about 77, its sporadic but I garentee unless im getting 30mpg It should be accepting more fuel :rofl:. Bought a vented fuel cap yesterday because I wasn't sure if the one on there from the PO was vented (thats what the mechanic said to put on based on what his sytem had for 1985 LC). Don't think it helped though, but I will say I left the fuel cap off for 20 mins yesterday, put the vented one on, and for my drive home I was getting noticeabley more power ( I highly doubt this was in my head) the knocking and all the noises were still there but I was accelerating faster i could have sworn. Anyway, unresolved, @Seth S didn't you say it might be a venting issue or a pinched hose somewhere? Im gunna have to take it back to the mechanic I think, hopefuly they give me a deal since they did the clogged fuel filter last time and it didn't fix this!

Best
Dan
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This is why you bought this rig and why you joined this forum. Don't take it back to the mechanic unless you have money to just swirl away down the toilet. You can do this with help from this group. This kind of project is exactly what you need to take you from 1 :banana: to :banana::banana:.
1. Do a search! Try things like "fuel gurgle", "Pressure gas cap", "pinched fuel vent" and see what you find.
2. AFTER you do your search and if you don't have the answer, post a NEW thread titled something like, "Back pressure in the fuel tank. What could it be?"
3. Describe your symptoms, what you've done, some of the threads you've looked at, and ask for help.
4. DO what the forum members recommend and keep people updated on your progress. Get dirty. Stay up until 2AM working on it. Bloody your knuckles. Swear at it. You're going to have to swear at it, a lot, before you can up-level on the banana rating. In some religions swearing is frowned upon. Car-swears don't count against you in heaven.
5. Take pictures along the way of what you've done.
6. Celebrate your win with a traditional IH8MUD step 6. :beer: :beer:

But DON'T pay a mechanic for stuff like this. Spend your money on tools and shop supplies and fun. You can handle it, man! You've got this!

Unless it's cold outside. If it's below freezing in your workspace, just take it to the mechanic. Screw everything I just said.🥶
 
Did the mechanic say why "she needs a new motor soon"? What did he say was the source of the knock?

Did you get the temp gauge to read?

Is the oil pressure gauge working?

Check your oil and coolant regularly. I mean every time you get a chance and keep them full.

2f Motors can go to 400K miles before a rebuild. How many miles on yours?
 
MDarius said:
This is why you bought this rig and why you joined this forum. Don't take it back to the mechanic unless you have money to just swirl away down the toilet. You can do this with help from this group. This kind of project is exactly what you need to take you from 1 :banana: to :banana::banana:.
1. Do a search! Try things like "fuel gurgle", "Pressure gas cap", "pinched fuel vent" and see what you find.
2. AFTER you do your search and if you don't have the answer, post a NEW thread titled something like, "Back pressure in the fuel tank. What could it be?"
3. Describe your symptoms, what you've done, some of the threads you've looked at, and ask for help.
4. DO what the forum members recommend and keep people updated on your progress. Get dirty. Stay up until 2AM working on it. Bloody your knuckles. Swear at it. You're going to have to swear at it, a lot, before you can up-level on the banana rating. In some religions swearing is frowned upon. Car-swears don't count against you in heaven.
5. Take pictures along the way of what you've done.
6. Celebrate your win with a traditional IH8MUD step 6. :beer: :beer:

But DON'T pay a mechanic for stuff like this. Spend your money on tools and shop supplies and fun. You can handle it, man! You've got this!

Unless it's cold outside. If it's below freezing in your workspace, just take it to the mechanic. Screw everything I just said.🥶
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Will do. Looks like I have another project, I pulled a bonehead move starting the car this morning. Pitch black, 6am morning shift, half asleep, forgot to throw it in neutral as I park it in first. Car jolts forward big league on startup, stalls. Luckily I had the ebrake on or I would have become a fj60 snowplow. Now its making a terrible raddling noise, just drove it the 2 mins to work but am worried I did some damage, It makies the new loud noise literally in sequence with the blinker when I turn it on too. Still shifts the same as far as I can tell, but by god it doesn't sound good right now at all, sounds like its behind the dash. . Did I just **** the starter motor with this massive jolt/stall or worse?
 
At least your parking brake is tested and working.

Easy enough to check the starter. if the rattle is still heard at idle, and with the truck in neutral and parking brake on, inspect the starter. Look for other things that may have come loose. One known issue is that the driver's side motor mount located under the power steering pump can break loose. Over years transmission fluid that leaks from the power steering drips onto the rubber mount causing the rubber to weaken and break. It's hard to see because the rubber is sandwiched between 2 pieces of metal. When it breaks free that side of the motor jumps upward when the motor revs. this causes the fan to hit the fan shroud (the rattling sound)...esp when the truck is on a hill or maybe turning or if the frame is flexed. You can check this by having someone stand to the side and watch to see if the motor tries to jump up while you lurch the truck forward. Start in first gear at a stand still and rev the motor a bit and pull the clutch out. Like forcefully move it forward a few feet.

the fan hitting the shroud sounds bad but really is not a big deal. The fix is simply jacking the the motor up slightly and replacing the motor mount.
 
And the weakened motor mount will break when you are revving the motor under a load...like trying to rock crawl over a log, trying to get unstuck in some rocks and revving the motor, or in your situation....fighting your parking brake.
 
Seth S said:
Starting in gear really shouldn’t cause an issue. The noise you are hearing behind the dash could be your wiper relay.
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Started it up again and took an audio recording. Forgot to mention it smells like something’s burning (not fuel) like burnt skin Smell or something (I didn’t burn myself lol). Can’t shut the blinker off either now!
g-man said:
At least your parking brake is tested and working.

Easy enough to check the starter. if the rattle is still heard at idle, and with the truck in neutral and parking brake on, inspect the starter. Look for other things that may have come loose. One known issue is that the driver's side motor mount located under the power steering pump can break loose. Over years transmission fluid that leaks from the power steering drips onto the rubber mount causing the rubber to weaken and break. It's hard to see because the rubber is sandwiched between 2 pieces of metal. When it breaks free that side of the motor jumps upward when the motor revs. this causes the fan to hit the fan shroud (the rattling sound)...esp when the truck is on a hill or maybe turning or if the frame is flexed. You can check this by having someone stand to the side and watch to see if the motor tries to jump up while you lurch the truck forward out of first gear.

the fan hitting the shroud sounds bad but really is not a big deal. The fix is simply jacking the the motor up slightly and replacing the motor mount.
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I will bless the start your days with this awful noise😂.

Dropbox

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Also Blinker is literally stuck on. I REAALLY jolted the truck let me tell you, e brakes only stopped me after 2 feet. It’s like it was trying to take off like a thunderbird lol.
Also forgot to mention getting a burning smell, maybe the clutch or the brakes or hopefully not something worse? It smells like of like burning skin (not me lol, always drive with burn proof medieval Chain mail on as I’m still learning!😃😃😂) any other things I should check on the drivetrain?
 
Could be damage to the parking brake. I'd start there since that could effect the way it drives...and stops. I like my vehicles to stop reliably.
 
Sounds electrical. Check your relays. Also check the ground junctions. Do a search on ground junctions. One in the large wiring harness coming into the firewall above the relays. You will have to cut into this carefully. Look for white with black stripe wires (ground wires) coming together. Look for burned ground wires going to the relays.
 
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