Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser (4 Viewers)

Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
104
Location
idaho
This is why you bought this rig and why you joined this forum. Don't take it back to the mechanic unless you have money to just swirl away down the toilet. You can do this with help from this group. This kind of project is exactly what you need to take you from 1 :banana: to :banana::banana:.
1. Do a search! Try things like "fuel gurgle", "Pressure gas cap", "pinched fuel vent" and see what you find.
2. AFTER you do your search and if you don't have the answer, post a NEW thread titled something like, "Back pressure in the fuel tank. What could it be?"
3. Describe your symptoms, what you've done, some of the threads you've looked at, and ask for help.
4. DO what the forum members recommend and keep people updated on your progress. Get dirty. Stay up until 2AM working on it. Bloody your knuckles. Swear at it. You're going to have to swear at it, a lot, before you can up-level on the banana rating. In some religions swearing is frowned upon. Car-swears don't count against you in heaven.
5. Take pictures along the way of what you've done.
6. Celebrate your win with a traditional IH8MUD step 6. :beer: :beer:

But DON'T pay a mechanic for stuff like this. Spend your money on tools and shop supplies and fun. You can handle it, man! You've got this!

Unless it's cold outside. If it's below freezing in your workspace, just take it to the mechanic. Screw everything I just said.🥶
Will get on this and the new fun little noises and smells it started making after my near liftoff this morning!!!🚙🚀 :rofl: It's gunna peak at 33 today so not below freezing I'll be out there f***ing with it!!

Cheers
 

g-man

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
3,025
Location
Charlottesville VA
Put the turn signal back on and listen for the buzzing relay. Go under the dash and find it. With a flashlight look for burned wires going to it. You may need to drop the relay panel to look at the wires coming in from the top. Just takes one 10mm socket, nut driver or what ever, take the machine screw out and drop it down.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
4,308
Location
Vermont
Started it up again and took an audio recording. Forgot to mention it smells like something’s burning (not fuel) like burnt skin Smell or something (I didn’t burn myself lol). Can’t shut the blinker off either now!

I will bless the start your days with this awful noise😂.

Also Blinker is literally stuck on. I REAALLY jolted the truck let me tell you, e brakes only stopped me after 2 feet. It’s like it was trying to take off like a thunderbird lol.
Also forgot to mention getting a burning smell, maybe the clutch or the brakes or hopefully not something worse? It smells like of like burning skin (not me lol, always drive with burn proof medieval Chain mail on as I’m still learning!😃😃😂) any other things I should check on the drivetrain?

turn signal relay is staying on clearly. Either you have a shorted wire or connection. Try pulling the fuse for the turn signals first.
 
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
104
Location
idaho
turn signal relay is staying on clearly. Either you have a shorted wire or connection. Try pulling the fuse for the turn signals first.
Update: the freakish noise stopped, maybe jt had to do with cold weather, but others have started ☺️☺️🤬 I’ll post it on the Dropbox too. One of em is that chirping sound in the background, and the other about halfway through “new noise” recording also, it sounds like someone tapping fingers on a table. Also, anyone know a good way to test seat belts for these rigs, pulling hard hasn’t Activated it and seems a little loose. I could always do the $10000 dollar seatbelt test, where you aim for a tree in 4th gear but I think it’s a little expensive! Thanks!
 

MoaByte

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Joined
Dec 13, 2014
Messages
1,241
Location
Moab
That first noise, that beeping because your door is open with the key in the ignition is easy to fix. A black box in the passenger side kick panel, open it up and cut the wire to the little speaker. Then you will be able to listen to the stereo with the doors open.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
4,308
Location
Vermont
If you give your seatbelt a couple of quick tugs and it doesn’t lock up then it’s time for a new set. It’s a common issue and a lot of us have ordered new sets from seatbelt planet that look great and work well too. Also quite easy to change though you might need to use some of the old bracket on the new.
 
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
104
Location
idaho
Hey Y'all,
Done a lot of thinking and its time to go ahead with the engine rebuild/swap, and am deciding what to do. Basically we all know it could give out soon and that's what BTB and my local old car guy here said too, and I'm tired of getting passed by grandmas in there civics at 45mph. I made a new thread about the swap options here: Fj60 Engine Swap Best Options? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj60-engine-swap-best-options.1249596/

So, How long should I expect it to take including other work I'll have done on it too (that I can't do myself) Like: axel rebuild, suspension change, potential carb rebuild or sniper install, tranny serviced, exhuast manifold leak fixed, vacuum leaks fixed. Rust proofing and other defferred maintenance from PO I can't get to yet and hopefully can do myself one day. Luckily ive made some money off of DOGECOIN 😀😎🤠🤑😂😂😂😂😂😂 but I really cant put much more than 7k into the rebuild and those other items

Lastly, I really still want to learn to wrench and even though I cant do those big ticket items b/c im so new the coolest thing in the world would be to find an LC shop in Boise that would let me help or watch as they work on the rig. Or would a cruiser club in Boise be a good route for something of that nature too?

Thanks all, One love!

Beehanger
 

MDarius

I break stuff.
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
Messages
2,009
Location
Bountiful, UT
If you're swapping the engine your exhaust manifold leak, vacuum leaks, and potentially carb rebuild/sniper install will be taken care of. All these things are related to your engine swap and engine choices. I suck at carburetors so if it were me I would go with a fuel-injected option when I do the engine swap. I think it's more reliable, easier to maintain and adjust for altitude, etc.

You should be getting all new cooling hoses, vacuum hoses, and belts with the new engine, all that is taken care of. If you haven't already, I would upgrade/replace the radiator and cooling fan while you're in there. They'll need to be matched to the needs of the new engine.

Sounds like a great opportunity!
 

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