Builds A pig for Father's Day (20 Viewers)

[RUSH55]

That's what it's all about. As Rush would say "you can do it"

 

[Pigeaten]

Looking good!!
@WarDamnEagle shot you a PM about the dash cover.

i used just dashes out of LA, i dropped it off, they told me they would contact me with price when they were ready to start, they called about 4 months later, about $900 shipped at the time, came out great

 

[Pigeaten]

but only did dash

 

[Ol Yeller]

but only did dash

Yeah the glovebox door and instrument pods would add to that in a hurry

 

[RUSH55]

i used just dashes out of LA, i dropped it off, they told me they would contact me with price when they were ready to start, they called about 4 months later, about $900 shipped at the time, came out great

Did this include new foam or the cover material only?

 

[Pigeaten]

Both I believe, i tried to feel cracked areas , but couldnt

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Both I believe, i tried to feel cracked areas , but couldnt

That's good to hear. God knows I have enough of those!

 

[Pigeaten]

Heres a few pics

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Heres a few pics

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Sold!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So yesterday morning I put on Pink Floyd's "The Wall" double album and commenced removing the dash. I already had the glovebox assembly pulled so I started by trying to remove the two nuts that are just inside the glovebox. You need a deep 8mm socket and a good sense of touch. I also pulled the rubber molding that covers the pinch joint just behind the top of the dash cap. That was pretty easy peasy compared to the 5 nuts that you have to remove. In all, again, there are 5 studs along the bottom of the dash cap and a small clip on either side. Once you remove all 5 nuts from the studs the clips will come out with a bit of jiggling, or at least they did for me.

It took the entire album to actually get the dash off and in my hands. Unless there's an easier way to remove it, you have to pull the instrument cluster and the center control panel - or at least you have to pull them out far enough to get your hands under the dash pad. Otherwise you can't access the remaining 3 nuts. I didn't have an issue with pulling all of that out as it was coming out anyway but I can imagine that if you only wanted to remove the dash you might find this task more than a little arduous.

I won't go into all the details on the instrument cluster or the center control panel; both of those operations have been discussed at length by others. I will reiterate though a few important steps. Take the time to chase the speedometer cable in the engine bay and remove it from the two clips that hold it on the firewall. That will free up enough slack in the cable to allow you to pull the instrument cluster forward enough to disconnect the speedometer cable. Also, I removed the two bolts holding the steering column in place. Not sure if that was 100% necessary but it appeared to be.

For the center control panel, I think at minimum you would need to loosen the choke cable and remove the far end of the three push/pull cables for the ventilation levers. Just follow those cables out of the back of the center area (two on driver's side and one on passengers) and you can unhook them (they are looped on the end) from the damper they are operating.

The dash needs some TLC but at least it's all there. Lower dash pad is in pretty good shape but a PO had something screwed into it so it also needs some attention. Glovebox door looks fine until you open it and see the expanded foam on the backside. Metal is in excellent shape though. Instrument Cluster pad is also in very good shape and could probably go back as is. Not sure it would ultimately match though unless they were all done.

The center control panel has been cut for the radio but it doesn't look cut with the radio facia in place. I have another center control panel which I know is uncut in my stash. I might look into a more retro looking head unit that would fit into the uncut panel, but I won't be giving up the modern tunes or the amp and 4 speakers. This is an area, at least in my mind, where original and practical have to get together and compromise.

 

[PabloCruise]

Pulled the rear glass, mechanism, etc. and got the wiring harness out of the rear sill - finally. That oval shaped grommet between the gas tank and the rear sill is a total pain to access. So everything is out or off the truck that is coming out by me from the 2nd row back except for the fuel vapor equipment which I will save for last. I guess the wiring harness still isn't completely out yet either so that is also left.

Rookie mistake disassembling the rear tailgate glass and internals. I raised the glass a few inches with the tailgate open and started taking things apart. That's a fine plan if you only want to remove the mechanism and/or anything else but not if you actually want to pull the glass. If you want to pull the glass, you first need to remove the inside sweep or outside weatherstripping across the top of the tailgate with the glass all the way down. Then you can raise the glass a few inches and carry on. I couldn't lower the glass because I had already disconnected the glass and couldn't pull it out either as there wasn't enough clearance. The glass itself is obviously not an issue but the U-Channel holder on the bottom of the glass is - and I wasn't about to try to remove it inside the tailgate. I finally did get it done but it was painful.

Tailgate looks pretty good inside but isn't perfect by any means. Rear window mechanism is pretty dirty but no rust to speak of.

Speaking of the rear glass, that metal U-Channel with the gasket (Toyota calls it a "Holder Sub Assembly) that holds the glass will come off but that disassembly is not for the faint of heart. I used a block of wood and a dead blow hammer with the glass resting on a blanket. It did eventually come off but I wasn't sure for the first few minutes.

The only other problem I had was finding 3 of the 4 screws that hold the window runs on each side stuck. I followed the advice of @J Mack and drilled the heads with a left hand bit about the diameter of the shaft. That released the runs from the body and allowed me to work them in a vice. I went down one or two sizes of bits, drilled though, and then worked them out with an extractor (and a bit of chisel work).

Probably going to move on to the front of the cab (doors, seats, dash, etc.) and then do the engine bay last.

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That tailgate and window lift will teach you all kinds of lessons.
(Vocabulary and other)

 

[PabloCruise]

I noticed that my torsion rod cover has 6 screws closely spaced on the passenger side (see photo). Is this factory or an addition by a PO? Screws appear to be the same as the others. The parts diagram shows the screw(s) as a standard part and unfortunately it doesn't give a quantity or even attempt to show how many are used.

Also, can I remove this cover or is it holding or helping to hold the torsion rod in place? I know some of you have gone through the arduous installation process but I always thought the ends were held in place by the hinges.

One of many questions I already have - I will try to space them out.

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That looks about right...

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Next step is to remove all the items bolted to the dash metal; Toyota lists this item as the "Panel, Sub-Assy, Instrument". It is shown as a separate part but that doesn't mean it isn't permanently attached. Maybe someone can chime in here?

It looks like the vent pulls, warm air pull, AC blower, and ventilation blower will need to be unbolted before I can attempt to pull this panel. There's probably another half dozen or so items as well that I don't have listed.

 

[PabloCruise]

I noticed that my torsion rod cover has 6 screws closely spaced on the passenger side (see photo). Is this factory or an addition by a PO? Screws appear to be the same as the others. The parts diagram shows the screw(s) as a standard part and unfortunately it doesn't give a quantity or even attempt to show how many are used.

Also, can I remove this cover or is it holding or helping to hold the torsion rod in place? I know some of you have gone through the arduous installation process but I always thought the ends were held in place by the hinges.

One of many questions I already have - I will try to space them out.

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Check this out: Builds - POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/potm-march-2014-javelina-by-pablo-cruise.798519/page-5#post-9121136

 

[PabloCruise]

I noticed that my torsion rod cover has 6 screws closely spaced on the passenger side (see photo). Is this factory or an addition by a PO? Screws appear to be the same as the others. The parts diagram shows the screw(s) as a standard part and unfortunately it doesn't give a quantity or even attempt to show how many are used.

Also, can I remove this cover or is it holding or helping to hold the torsion rod in place? I know some of you have gone through the arduous installation process but I always thought the ends were held in place by the hinges.

One of many questions I already have - I will try to space them out.

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This is a good one too:

Builds - POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise

The story of my Pig - I am now going to try to organize and categorize posts to make it easier to find content. Enjoy!

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Check this out: Builds - POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/potm-march-2014-javelina-by-pablo-cruise.798519/page-5#post-9121136

Thanks Pablo. I refer to your thread often. It's a plethora of information.

Not sure you have to reinstall that torsion rod for paint though. Regardless, it ultimately needs to go back on!

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks Pablo. I refer to your thread often. It's a plethora of information.

Not sure you have to reinstall that torsion rod for paint though. Regardless, it ultimately needs to go back on!

Take a read about how we thought through the process for establishing paint lines.

The fun with the tailgate torsion rod starts here: Builds - POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/potm-march-2014-javelina-by-pablo-cruise.798519/page-3#post-9116958

 

[PabloCruise]

They didn't do a great job rolling it down so it is peeling off, albeit slowly and with great effort. They obviously didn't understand how this stuff works either as they covered a lot of areas with no metal - total waste of material.

View attachment 3808921

Maybe they thought it would be a swell moisture barrier?

 

[Pigeaten]

So yesterday morning I put on Pink Floyd's "The Wall" double album and commenced removing the dash. I already had the glovebox assembly pulled so I started by trying to remove the two nuts that are just inside the glovebox. You need a deep 8mm socket and a good sense of touch. I also pulled the rubber molding that covers the pinch joint just behind the top of the dash cap. That was pretty easy peasy compared to the 5 nuts that you have to remove. In all, again, there are 5 studs along the bottom of the dash cap and a small clip on either side. Once you remove all 5 nuts from the studs the clips will come out with a bit of jiggling, or at least they did for me.

It took the entire album to actually get the dash off and in my hands. Unless there's an easier way to remove it, you have to pull the instrument cluster and the center control panel - or at least you have to pull them out far enough to get your hands under the dash pad. Otherwise you can't access the remaining 3 nuts. I didn't have an issue with pulling all of that out as it was coming out anyway but I can imagine that if you only wanted to remove the dash you might find this task more than a little arduous.

I won't go into all the details on the instrument cluster or the center control panel; both of those operations have been discussed at length by others. I will reiterate though a few important steps. Take the time to chase the speedometer cable in the engine bay and remove it from the two clips that hold it on the firewall. That will free up enough slack in the cable to allow you to pull the instrument cluster forward enough to disconnect the speedometer cable. Also, I removed the two bolts holding the steering column in place. Not sure if that was 100% necessary but it appeared to be.

For the center control panel, I think at minimum you would need to loosen the choke cable and remove the far end of the three push/pull cables for the ventilation levers. Just follow those cables out of the back of the center area (two on driver's side and one on passengers) and you can unhook them (they are looped on the end) from the damper they are operating.

The dash needs some TLC but at least it's all there. Lower dash pad is in pretty good shape but a PO had something screwed into it so it also needs some attention. Glovebox door looks fine until you open it and see the expanded foam on the backside. Metal is in excellent shape though. Instrument Cluster pad is also in very good shape and could probably go back as is. Not sure it would ultimately match though unless they were all done.

The center control panel has been cut for the radio but it doesn't look cut with the radio facia in place. I have another center control panel which I know is uncut in my stash. I might look into a more retro looking head unit that would fit into the uncut panel, but I won't be giving up the modern tunes or the amp and 4 speakers. This is an area, at least in my mind, where original and practical have to get together and compromise.

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This is when you wish you has small surgeon hands

 

[PabloCruise]

I did. You need to read past the first sentence.

Did we get this all sorted out?