Builds A pig for Father's Day (11 Viewers)

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Pulled the rear glass, mechanism, etc. and got the wiring harness out of the rear sill - finally. That oval shaped grommet between the gas tank and the rear sill is a total pain to access. So everything is out or off the truck that is coming out by me from the 2nd row back except for the fuel vapor equipment which I will save for last. I guess the wiring harness still isn't completely out yet either so that is also left.

Rookie mistake disassembling the rear tailgate glass and internals. I raised the glass a few inches with the tailgate open and started taking things apart. That's a fine plan if you only want to remove the mechanism and/or anything else but not if you actually want to pull the glass. If you want to pull the glass, you first need to remove the inside sweep or outside weatherstripping across the top of the tailgate with the glass all the way down. Then you can raise the glass a few inches and carry on. I couldn't lower the glass because I had already disconnected the glass and couldn't pull it out either as there wasn't enough clearance. The glass itself is obviously not an issue but the U-Channel holder on the bottom of the glass is - and I wasn't about to try to remove it inside the tailgate. I finally did get it done but it was painful.

Tailgate looks pretty good inside but isn't perfect by any means. Rear window mechanism is pretty dirty but no rust to speak of.

Speaking of the rear glass, that metal U-Channel with the gasket (Toyota calls it a "Holder Sub Assembly) that holds the glass will come off but that disassembly is not for the faint of heart. I used a block of wood and a dead blow hammer with the glass resting on a blanket. It did eventually come off but I wasn't sure for the first few minutes.

The only other problem I had was finding 3 of the 4 screws that hold the window runs on each side stuck. I followed the advice of @J Mack and drilled the heads with a left hand bit about the diameter of the shaft. That released the runs from the body and allowed me to work them in a vice. I went down one or two sizes of bits, drilled though, and then worked them out with an extractor (and a bit of chisel work).

Probably going to move on to the front of the cab (doors, seats, dash, etc.) and then do the engine bay last.

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I noticed that my torsion rod cover has 6 screws closely spaced on the passenger side (see photo). Is this factory or an addition by a PO? Screws appear to be the same as the others. The parts diagram shows the screw(s) as a standard part and unfortunately it doesn't give a quantity or even attempt to show how many are used.

Also, can I remove this cover or is it holding or helping to hold the torsion rod in place? I know some of you have gone through the arduous installation process but I always thought the ends were held in place by the hinges.

One of many questions I already have - I will try to space them out. :D

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Also, can I remove this cover or is it holding or helping to hold the torsion rod in place? I know some of you have gone through the arduous installation process but I always thought the ends were held in place by the hinges.
On the '71 models, the left side goes into the body. I would take off the hinge first then the cover, if I remember right.
 
They didn't do a great job rolling it down so it is peeling off, albeit slowly and with great effort. They obviously didn't understand how this stuff works either as they covered a lot of areas with no metal - total waste of material.

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Does anyone know how to remove this part of the hood latch (Toyota calls it a "hook") from the hood? Referencing the cut and paste from the parts diagram, I backed the Retainer off the hood a 1/4" with a pair of channel locks and it moves pretty freely. Dowel isn't moving however with a giant screwdriver. I'm assuming the dowel is rusted frozen inside what I assume is a captive nut in the hood. Just wanted to ask if there's something I'm missing before I treat it as a stuck bolt.

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53503 is a jam nut, grab it with some channel locks and loosen it.
I did. You need to read past the first sentence. :D
 
So what else today. I obviously removed the hood and messed around a bit with rubber bits around the edges of the engine bay. All the rubber is in pretty good shape except for those two glued on rubber strips in front of the cowl. And of course all 5 of the cowl screws are frozen and will need to be drilled out.

Also made a bit of progress removing the dynamat from the front doors. That's a tough chore but doable. However, a few minutes ever so often and pretty soon you have a lot of it removed. Also removed the lower B pillar trim and all the remaining weatherstripping and molding from the doors and body. Thankfully the hard rubber, gray trim around the door openings is in decent shape and will only need a good scrubbing.

Pulled the glove box and started on the dash. I have a nice hard plastic dash pad cover if anyone wants it. I have decided to send my upper and lower dash pads, instrument surround, and glovebox door off for restoration.

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have decided to send my upper and lower dash pads, instrument surround, and glovebox door off for restoration.
I saw the dash restoration outfit on Jay’s Garage channel, didn’t sound cheap but the work was amazing!
 
Well Jim, thanks again for the advice. I removed two of them this morning. Wasn't sure the jam nut thing was ever going to run out of threads and catch but it eventually did. I had to remove two as I'm swapping hoods and the Hook assembly on the original hood is in better condition than the new hood. It looks like these were originally plated, maybe a combination of white and yellow zinc?
 
@WarDamnEagle what restoration company are you going to go with for the dash? I recently chatted with the folks at just dashes and for the dash pad, glove box door, instrument cluster, and the piece below the heater controls it was around $2200. Not horrible, not great. I have no idea how this stacks up to other restoration companies. Really gonna kill the 5K budget.
 
@WarDamnEagle what restoration company are you going to go with for the dash? I recently chatted with the folks at just dashes and for the dash pad, glove box door, instrument cluster, and the piece below the heater controls it was around $2200. Not horrible, not great. I have no idea how this stacks up to other restoration companies. Really gonna kill the 5K budget.
That's the company I was considering. Not sure if there are any great alternatives. Appreciate the price point; that's helpful. Was that for the entire instrument cluster or just the front pad? I know they can do both.
 

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