Greg
I’d say huge difference! I forgot about tubs @J Mack recommended.
Kim finally taken initiative to pack up her stuff in trailer so I’m going to be investing in more racks to store things.
Beautiful shop!!
Builds A pig for Father's Day (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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I’d say huge difference! I forgot about tubs @J Mack recommended.
Kim finally taken initiative to pack up her stuff in trailer so I’m going to be investing in more racks to store things.
Beautiful shop!!
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #602
Not sure how much stuff Kim has but if she’s anything like Suzy you’re going to need a lot of square footage….or at least a few square speculums.
Look into pallet racks, new or used. So much better than HD or Costco racks. Other than the ones they put merchandise on.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
LOL. I see what you did there!
Well played...
Well played...
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #604
And so it begins...
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #605
Now that the Christmas rush is over, I decided today was the day to commence disassembly. After missing my original October date, I have a new deadline of mid March to get the body out to Flagstaff. We are going to make this a road trip, dropping the body off and then going on to Las Vegas where we have tickets to see the Eagles at the Sphere a second time. This time though we are taking our two youngest boys (both adults but unmarried) for their birthdays. One will come with us and the other will fly in to meet us.
So this morning I emptied the pig of a bunch of parts, spare tire, tools, etc. and have just starting probing around in some areas. I took the back panel off the tailgate, removed the rear door panels, etc. I have plenty of Ziplock bags, a sharpie, and a stack of buss trays as recommended by @J Mack.
I really wish I could just snap my fingers and make the few problem areas go away as 95% of this pig is in great condition. That 5% though is very problematic so frame off it is.
So this morning I emptied the pig of a bunch of parts, spare tire, tools, etc. and have just starting probing around in some areas. I took the back panel off the tailgate, removed the rear door panels, etc. I have plenty of Ziplock bags, a sharpie, and a stack of buss trays as recommended by @J Mack.
I really wish I could just snap my fingers and make the few problem areas go away as 95% of this pig is in great condition. That 5% though is very problematic so frame off it is.
Pigeaten
GOLD Star
pictures, pictures, pictures! wish i'd taken more
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #607
Trying to take lots of photos. Here's a few for your viewing pleasure.
following along.....
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #609
After pulling the door cards I decided to tackle the rear seat and then basically everything in the rear and cargo area. So far I have only broken one small M5 bolt (rear seat release cable hold down clamp bolt). I did have to to drill the head off of a couple of sheet metal screws (rear wheel well cover trim screws) but those were pretty trivial to remove. The aluminum rear kickplate screws were very rusty but I was able to just unscrew them from underneath with a pair of channel locks.
I am trying to separate any parts that need painting so that they can go with the body to the shop. The rear seat bottom is pretty easy in that regard; just remove the bottom metal plate, the bumpers and a couple of other things and you are done. The rear seat back is another animal. You have to completely disassemble it to get all the metal parts separated. Spring assemblies looked new under both so no issues there. In fact, and I know I keep repeating myself, but just about everything in the back seat and cargo areas have minimal rust, if any at all. But where there is rust, like one or two areas in the rear footwell, it's severely rusted. Wheel wells looked brand new when I pulled the vinyl covers. They still had the small adhesive strip on them so I'm pretty sure they had never been removed. All the vinyl/rubber mats are in good shape; just need a bit of cleaning.
Here's a few photos:
I am trying to separate any parts that need painting so that they can go with the body to the shop. The rear seat bottom is pretty easy in that regard; just remove the bottom metal plate, the bumpers and a couple of other things and you are done. The rear seat back is another animal. You have to completely disassemble it to get all the metal parts separated. Spring assemblies looked new under both so no issues there. In fact, and I know I keep repeating myself, but just about everything in the back seat and cargo areas have minimal rust, if any at all. But where there is rust, like one or two areas in the rear footwell, it's severely rusted. Wheel wells looked brand new when I pulled the vinyl covers. They still had the small adhesive strip on them so I'm pretty sure they had never been removed. All the vinyl/rubber mats are in good shape; just need a bit of cleaning.
Here's a few photos:
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #610
I had always naively assumed that the upholstery in this pig was original but I'm pretty sure it's not now after finding these notes under the rear seat back skin. Original fabric/vinyl information is pretty hard to find on these pigs. SOR only sells vinyl skins (last time I checked) for all years. Any idea if there was ever a factory vinyl/fabric combination?
Get some "Left Hand Cobalt Steel Maintenance Length Drill Bits". A couple each 1/8" - 3/16" - 5/16" are my go to bits, if you get lucky as soon as you relive the pressure from the head the left hand drill will back out the shank, if its good and proper rusted in there then at least you have a centered drill spot started for you... Win Win!
I like these; McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/drill-bits/flute-direction~left-hand/
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Kibble "N" Bits is me go to 
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #613
Thanks Jim; that's good advice. I have a set of left handed bits that I use when it's a bolt (and not a screw) for that same reason. I actually remembered I had them about the time the bolt disappeared on the third progressive pass with bits from the top. Threads are all good. The heads I drilled out were just sheet metal screws. They fell through the floor pan as soon as the head popped off.
I might have to upgrade my left hand set to the one you linked. I have a set of metric taps with bits in my shopping cart at the moment anyway. I need some better ones for this project.
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WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #614
Got the headliner out this morning along with all the trim, handles, mirror, visors, etc. Carefully labeled the rods from front to back. Odd that some of these had washers on each end but most didn't. One (second from front) actually had a nut on one end and a washer on the other. Maybe the headliner was replaced at one time? Bolt looked Toyota and a 12mm wrench fits. Odd?
Pulled the factory insulation off the roof. That stuff couldn't have been doing much. Will definitely go back with some Damplifier Pro. Thankfully no rust on the roof although there is lots around the drip rails topside. Headliner rods even looked pretty good.
Pulled the factory insulation off the roof. That stuff couldn't have been doing much. Will definitely go back with some Damplifier Pro. Thankfully no rust on the roof although there is lots around the drip rails topside. Headliner rods even looked pretty good.
Interesting seeing this well documented tear down, I suspect that even though these were “mass produced” fitment for things like nuts & washers on headliner bows was done on a case by case basis by each worker, tolerances were not great on these bodies.
Sets the tension or height from rod to rod, mark the order now and recheck with a straight edge to confirm a smooth transition and shim accordingly before you install/glue the new headliner. The webbing on the new headliner will be different heights than the old headliner and hang different.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #617
Makes sense and I actually assumed that might be the case. I just found it odd that they used a nut instead of a couple extra washers.
FWIW I am only posting less than 10% of the photos I'm taking so if someone is particularly interested in an area in the future, I might be able to provide some insight.
I have everything marked and attached with painters tape. Pretty sure it won't be me installing the new headliner but still good advice to pass along.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #618
Did not expect to find these.
This type tool works great to get the last of the headliner crap off. Harbor freight it and throw away when done. The flat blade is the one you want.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #620
Thanks Ron. I've had a Fein Multimaster for years; fantastic tool when you need it. For this project, the body is going to the shop with the residual adhesive, etc. They'll have to prep the surface anyway.
