Builds A pig for Father's Day (5 Viewers)

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks everyone for the positive comments. Now that I have seen the rust up close via FaceTime and close-up photos the body work will certainly be more involved than I had anticipated. I guess many of you guys have already been through that process though and came out the other side. I'm going to use a wire brush, gallon of Corroseal, and some rattle can paint on it for now. It will go into a 10 x 20 storage unit when we are gone. Hopefully that will slow things down a bit.

It looks like the engine serial number is 2F-1241xx; 40 years of grime to get through and can't quite make out the last two digits yet. Needs a good scrubbing with a brush.....I can only ask the BIL to do so much. That would put the manufacture date pretty much on top of the frame serial number of October 1976; assuming the SOR website data is accurate.

I have a question concerning power steering. If you want to go "factory" it appears from all the threads that I have read that pre late 1978 blocks aren't set up for the factory PS pump bracket? So even if you had all the parts from a 1979 you still wouldn't be able to set it up like factory?

Not positive I will ultimately go with power steering. When I tear it down my current idea is to go back with City Racer 16" rims and 235/85-16 tires. It appears that those that have gone that route on 40's or 55's have found the manual steering to be tolerable.

is there Not a Drivers Door Jamb small in size , DATA ID Plate ?

look on the drivers door itself too , lower rear facing edge

maybe its covered in paint for example

good luck

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I have photos of both ID plates; driver's door jamb and firewall. Those don't have the engine serial number though.

FJ55-67244. October 1976

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I have photos of both ID plates; driver's door jamb and firewall. Those don't have the engine serial number though.

no they wouldn't

if your block Serial # is Obscure , u need the steel tooth brush u mentioned , a dental Pick set , and small can of PB blaster

brush in a small amout of the Blaster , brush , then wipe with a towel dry

now , get picks and pick all the Detent grooves carefully ,

wipe and see , if not good enough yet repeat .

may take 3-4 cycles , but method i have used with good success


good luck

 

[wngrog]

77 was the transition year for Pigs. You have the best year. All the right stuff. Stamped tailgate. Square windows. Small tail lights.

Hose it down with Fluid Film and drive it.

SSS19.....

 

[wngrog]

no they wouldn't

if your block Serial # is Obscure , u need the steel tooth brush u mentioned , a dental Pick set , and small can of PB blaster

brush in a small amout of the Blaster , brush , then wipe with a towel dry

now , get picks and pick all the Detent grooves carefully ,

wipe and see , if not good enough yet repeat .

may take 3-4 cycles , but method i have used with good success


good luck

You forgot to tell him to clean his camera lense before taking the pictures.

 

[onemanarmy]

I've got a late 77, and no TOYOTA stamped tailgate. I am sad about that.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@WarDamnEagle it's Time to Put a Saddle on Her ............................

 

[FJBen]

So today’s question, will a Warn 8274 fit on the front of this pig without extending the frame? Either by using a mounting plate with the original front bumper like this: 8274 Winch Mounting Plate

....or an aftermarket bumper?

I have read several threads and I’m confused because I see reference to frame extensions and it’s not clear to me if they are needed. Thanks

Congrats on the pig, looks great!

I had a belleview on my pig, which is basically an older 8274. It was just a custom small bumper and a winch plate that fit good on there.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I've got a late 77, and no TOYOTA stamped tailgate. I am sad about that.

A question about the TOYOTA stamp, were they ever painted the main color or were they always the color of the surrounding area (white for most pigs)?

 

[scrapdaddy]

I believe they were painted the white color. I opted to paint mine the green color.

 

[RUSH55]

I've got a late 77, and no TOYOTA stamped tailgate. I am sad about that.

You may not have the stamped tailgate, but you should have the emblem!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So I'm starting to gather parts that I know I will ultimately need to do a frame off. The windshield weatherstrip seemed like a safe place to start and I got this information off ToyDIY.com:

56121-90357

FOR W/MOULDING (03/1969 - 08/1977)

It appears to be NLA from Toyota and City Racer only sells the one "without groove". Looks like I might need longer than 3 years to gather parts.........


Edit: Only $35 for OEM if you don't need the moulding groove: 56121-90358 - Genuine Toyota WEATHERSTRIP, WINDSHIELD

This is going to be a little frustrating......

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Also doesn’t look like the installed one will be reusable.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Made it home to our condo around 7pm last night after 24+ hours of travel. We had to run through the Miami airport to catch our connection...immigration was a zoo yesterday. Brother in law had ribs and brisket waiting on us. Fantastic; especially after being in pork free KSA for a while.

Drove the pig this morning. Drives really well but manual steering is a bit of a pain in a tight parking lot. Mechanicals seem to be in really good shape but body will need some TLC. Frame has some surface rust but absolutely solid. There are half a dozen or so rust throughs but body is rock solid right up to the hole.

I’m happy with the purchase.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I’m happy with the purchase.

That's all that matters!

 

[RUSH55]

Let the fun begin!!

 

[Gordobe]

Remember it’s all about the journey

Congratulation yeeha

 

[wngrog]

Glad you are happy I recommend highly that you treat and coat the body and leave it alone. You start digging and you are not going to like what you find.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Glad you are happy I recommend highly that you treat and coat the body and leave it alone. You start digging and you are not going to like what you find.

I like patina on a late Georgian mahogany secretary as much as the next guy but I'm not really into the whole patina car thing. I'm leaning toward an E Coating process with, of course, all the metal repairs that are exposed after the initial stripping. Cut and paste from one shop's website:

• Sheet metal parts are baked in an oxygen-deprived oven at 750–800 degrees.
  • The oxygen-deprived chamber prevents warpage.
  • The oven reduces to ash all contaminants, paints, and any material other than metal.
  • A pressure-wash with water follows the baking procedure.
• The metal components are then dipped in phosphoric acid.
  • This is a 10% solution used to remove rust and substances which were turned to ash in the oven.
  • The panels are pressure-washed with water after this treatment.
• The metal components are then dipped into a hot caustic soda bath.
  • This bath neutralizes the phosphoric acid.
  • All panels are then again pressure-washed with water.
• The metal components are then dipped in an electrolysis “de-rust” solution.
  • This bath is also a low content caustic soda solution.
  • This process removes rust and returns a bright sheen to the metal.
  • All parts are pressure-washed with water following this bath.
• The panels are treated through electro deposition.
  • This process is sometimes referred to as E-coating.
  • It’s necessary to seal the cleansed metal to prevent corrosion on all surfaces from the inside out.
  • This is also a liquid and electric process.
• The parts are treated with zinc phosphate for corrosion protection; a submerged electro-plating process.
  • The parts are rinse, de-ionized, and then rinsed again.
• The parts are positively charged and submerged to receive a Cathodic Epoxy Coating inside and out.
  • This coating prevents rust and promotes paint adhesion.

I assume any metal repairs are done after the initial baking procedure? Plan to call this particular shop (in Louisiana) this week to get more information.

For now though, it will be treatment with Corroseal as it will be at least 3 years before I am ready to tear it down. I am extremely pleased with the frame, just a bit of surface rust and frankly the body looks almost rust free from underneath as well. I don't think the vehicle has seen much, if any, salt. It's also interesting when you examine the rust throughs. The metal is solid right up to the edge of the hole. It's almost like you used a torch to make the hole.

 

[wngrog]

The body shop is where pigs go to die. Just keep that in mind.