Builds A 60 Runs through it… (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Hojack
- Start date
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- 4bt nv4500 overlanding soa
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Did your fj have factory air conditioning? If so, did the condenser fit between the rad and the intercooler?
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
My tires and wheel combo is very similar to Hojack’s mine stick out about 1” to 1-1/2” I’m either wanting to get the JDM fender flares from Japan or this option:
Land Cruiser 60 Series - Gozzard Composites
You can kind of see how far they stick out past the fender in that picture. My backspacing is the same as hojack’s
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,032
@cruisermatt the Hutchinson backspacing is 4-1/2”. I’ll take pictures of the 60 tomorrow as the tires are off again.
Shock time
Choosing location and fitment of the shock hoop. Orange ratchet strap was used to hold the shock about 3” extended for install placement.
Custom fitting the Ruffstuff axle shock hangers.
Tack welded the hanger on the axle and turned wheel to check for clearance issues. The grade 8 bolt needs to be shortened and a jam nut used instead of a nylon lock nut.
Opening up access in the upper wheel well for top of the shock hoop.
Cutting and bending the drivers side shock hoop to allow access to the power steering gearbox. Took 4-1/2” off both from shock hoops.
Shock time
Choosing location and fitment of the shock hoop. Orange ratchet strap was used to hold the shock about 3” extended for install placement.
Custom fitting the Ruffstuff axle shock hangers.
Tack welded the hanger on the axle and turned wheel to check for clearance issues. The grade 8 bolt needs to be shortened and a jam nut used instead of a nylon lock nut.
Opening up access in the upper wheel well for top of the shock hoop.
Cutting and bending the drivers side shock hoop to allow access to the power steering gearbox. Took 4-1/2” off both from shock hoops.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,033
Passenger side shock mount access. Used 2” hole saw and angle grinder cutoff disc to cut the opening.
Rewelding the shock hoop after shortening the length by 4-1/2”.
The rear upper shock mounts with two bolt options for shock mounting. Painting and ready for install.
Tack welded the drivers front and it has clearance issues. Need to rotate the hoop clockwise and clearence the wheel well some more, but that’ll have to be tomorrow. Both front shock reservoirs will be mounted inside the engine bay on top of the wheel wells. Thanks Mike for another fun build day buddy. The cookies were great
!
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- 575
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- 16,139
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
That is not a good way to shorten those shock towers unless you sleeved them. Butt welded tubes with the welds ground down are not going to last.
Why didn’t you do the Ford towers? Would have been a ton easier.
You need a jam nut and shorter bolt for the axle side, the knuckle is going to hit that. Mine is the positioned exactly the same.
Why didn’t you do the Ford towers? Would have been a ton easier.
You need a jam nut and shorter bolt for the axle side, the knuckle is going to hit that. Mine is the positioned exactly the same.
The shock body looks like it's really close to the upper shock bracket. When the suspension flexes the shock body will likely move a good 1/2" or more closer to the frame. I see the draw to want to use shock hoops because they look cool and fairly easy to install. I think in your situation though that ford towers would work better for you with less clearance issues and result in a cleaner install. Rough stuff makes a tower that is similar to the Ford tower but ultra beefy, is more expensive too though. 4plus products also makes a cool and beefy set of shock towers that are for Fj40s that u could adapt easily. I try to put my lower shock mount bracket on top of the axle housing to protect it from rocks. Maybe I missed it, but where are your steering stops on the housing? Keep in mind too that when you weld near the knuckle, you run a risk of melting the inner axle seals.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,037
Steering stops still need to be put on the axle.
Mike runs the shock hoops on his 60 and they seemed the most easily to adapt. When you have a 60 that’s running the same setup as your doing then why not just try to copy it.
Mike runs the shock hoops on his 60 and they seemed the most easily to adapt. When you have a 60 that’s running the same setup as your doing then why not just try to copy it.
Cool. Not trying to beat u up on your build, just throwing out input from what I see. It's gonna be a fun cruiser. You need to build a mount on your trailer hitch and some hydraulic outriggers and u can use it to drill wells and wheel it .
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,039
I don’t think anybody is beating on the build...Cool. Not trying to beat u up on your build, just throwing out input from what I see. It's gonna be a fun cruiser. You need to build a mount on your trailer hitch and some hydraulic outriggers and u can use it to drill wells and wheel it .
I like to read others input that’s why we’ve got this forum. I decided to post yesterday’s pictures without it being the end product to get some input. A bit of tweaking the front drivers hoop and it’ll be ready.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Dont forget to put the gusset from the hoop back down to the frame without it you will end up ripping two holes in your frame where the hoops are welded to the frame
