A 200 is meant to have 37’s (24 Viewers)

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I wanted to ask and see who is successfully running 37’s with KDSS.

Is it the Tundra front end that allows this? Or has anyone done it without the Tundra front suspension?

Also, can you remove just the front KDSS bar and not have any warning lights on the dash?

I’m getting questions about getting LC’s onto 37’s and want to make sure I’m giving correct information in addition to sharing this great thread with people.

Thanks 🤙🏼
I'm only on 35s but 100% you'd have to do something significant with the KDSS arm and sway bar to avoid contact. With the KDSS relo I clear mine, but just barely. A specialized KDSS relo bracket could allow me to move everything 1/2" further forward, but to go from 35s to 37s I'd need double that.

Maybe if you go to a very low offset you could avoid the KDSS arm, but there's a lot of fender interference as I'm sure you know. Tundra conversion might do it... I can't say but hopefully someone else can.

You can remove the front sway bar and there won't be any lights, but the KDSS system is hydraulic and if you do that the KDSS ram on the driver's side will extend. I'm not sure what you'd need to do to remove that but it would involve depressurizing and repressurizing the KDSS system and at that point just remove it all and fab some sort of non-KDSS sway bar options.
 
I'm only on 35s but 100% you'd have to do something significant with the KDSS arm and sway bar to avoid contact. With the KDSS relo I clear mine, but just barely. A specialized KDSS relo bracket could allow me to move everything 1/2" further forward, but to go from 35s to 37s I'd need double that.

Maybe if you go to a very low offset you could avoid the KDSS arm, but there's a lot of fender interference as I'm sure you know. Tundra conversion might do it... I can't say but hopefully someone else can.

You can remove the front sway bar and there won't be any lights, but the KDSS system is hydraulic and if you do that the KDSS ram on the driver's side will extend. I'm not sure what you'd need to do to remove that but it would involve depressurizing and repressurizing the KDSS system and at that point just remove it all and fab some sort of non-KDSS sway bar options.
And to be clear, there is no connection (electronic or hydraulic) between the front and rear KDSS bars, correct?
 
A little update on my 37's journey, the wheels are on the rig and it still fits in the garage! I am pretty happy about that. I did a little bit of trimming up front. Somewhat of a BMC. I just need it welded now. I don't have any rubbing around town the little bit of driving that I have done. I jacked up the rear a little to see how that will be impacted. I'll probably start trimming my dissent rear this weekend 🙄🫨🫢. I don't have any wheeling trips planned soon, but I really want to get the clearance issues dialed so I can see how much better this thing does on 37's on the trail.

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And to be clear, there is no connection (electronic or hydraulic) between the front and rear KDSS bars, correct?
The fluid all goes to a central reservoir so you can’t remove part of it
 
A little update on my 37's journey, the wheels are on the rig and it still fits in the garage! I am pretty happy about that. I did a little bit of trimming up front. Somewhat of a BMC. I just need it welded now. I don't have any rubbing around town the little bit of driving that I have done. I jacked up the rear a little to see how that will be impacted. I'll probably start trimming my dissent rear this weekend 🙄🫨🫢. I don't have any wheeling trips planned soon, but I really want to get the clearance issues dialed so I can see how much better this thing does on 37's on the trail.

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I posted some pics a while back of how much I cut my dissent rear back. If it helps. Wheels look amazing! Can’t wait for them to release the polished.
 
A little update on my 37's journey, the wheels are on the rig and it still fits in the garage! I am pretty happy about that. I did a little bit of trimming up front. Somewhat of a BMC. I just need it welded now. I don't have any rubbing around town the little bit of driving that I have done. I jacked up the rear a little to see how that will be impacted. I'll probably start trimming my dissent rear this weekend 🙄🫨🫢. I don't have any wheeling trips planned soon, but I really want to get the clearance issues dialed so I can see how much better this thing does on 37's on the trail.

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Thanks @Wafflroo. I'll look back through the earlier thread again before I get too crazy cutting away.
 
The fluid all goes to a central reservoir so you can’t remove part of it
So if you remove the front swaybar, the rear KDSS bar must be removed then. Thank you for clarifying.

Is there a rear Toyota swaybar part that is a standard, non-KDSS swaybar that can be reinstalled?
 
So if you remove the front swaybar, the rear KDSS bar must be removed then. Thank you for clarifying.

Is there a rear Toyota swaybar part that is a standard, non-KDSS swaybar that can be reinstalled?

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Non-KDSS rear. Dobinson's sells one too that's heavier spring rate. However If I recall it's all or nothing, like they mount differently (KDSS and non-KDSS) but axle has provisions for both.
 
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Non-KDSS rear. Dobinson's sells one too that's heavier spring rate. However If I recall it's all or nothing, like they mount differently (KDSS and non-KDSS) but axle has provisions for both.
The LC axle mounts are different for the rear sway bar. You’d have to do some welding of new mounting points to make it work, or swap in a diff from an LX
 
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So if you remove the front swaybar, the rear KDSS bar must be removed then. Thank you for clarifying.

Is there a rear Toyota swaybar part that is a standard, non-KDSS swaybar that can be reinstalled?
Yeah. Maybe there’s a way to plug the front lines but realistically you’d have to remove it all and decide what to do. One option is to run without sway bars, which might be fine for a dedicated trail rig, but less ideal for a highway rig on meaty 37s
 
I believe the guys at Stellar Built are running a Tundra front stay after removing all the KDSS equipment.
 
has anyone limited their travel up front with extended bump stop or spacers for bump stops to avoid contact with the windshield washer fluid container?
 
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has anyone limited their travel up front with extended bump stop or spacers for bump stops to avoid contact with the windshield washer fluid container?
Westcott makes these little spacers that come with the front “preload kit” you could place between the front bumpstop and the frame, or a taller aftermarket bumpstop, or the combination. And Perry Parts can make a custom one as well, which would be my first choice if I was to do it over.
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has anyone limited their travel up front with extended bump stop or spacers for bump stops to avoid contact with the windshield washer fluid container?
Perryparts here. Like them a lot
 
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A little update on my 37's journey, the wheels are on the rig and it still fits in the garage! I am pretty happy about that. I did a little bit of trimming up front. Somewhat of a BMC. I just need it welded now. I don't have any rubbing around town the little bit of driving that I have done. I jacked up the rear a little to see how that will be impacted. I'll probably start trimming my dissent rear this weekend 🙄🫨🫢. I don't have any wheeling trips planned soon, but I really want to get the clearance issues dialed so I can see how much better this thing does on 37's on the trail.

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Did you trim your rear Dissent yet? Got any pics of what was trimmed?
 
Did you trim your rear Dissent yet? Got any pics of what was trimmed?
I went little by little. I had to trim more and more on each side. Sawzall with a fresh metal blade was the best tool for the aluminum cutting. I'll get some more pictures for you of the finished cut. I feel like my spare swing out has more play in it than before when I swing it closed . I think I'm going to have to have someone weld on a replacement trim piece on that edge there for rigidity. The swing out doesn't move much while driving, but the idea of flying down a washboard road and losing my swing out scares me.

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Not the most beautiful cuts, But functional.

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This thread needs more posts.

I have about 2k miles left on my Kenda Klever RTs (that'd be about 40k on them) and there are two sweet deals circulating on 37x12.5R17s that I might need to jump on soon. Cooper AT3 XLTs at Tirerack for $333 and BFG KO2s at Discount for $359. Figured I could buy the tires and wheels now then take them to the shop to finish fitment when the Kendas are done.
For wheels, I like the Titanium or Charcoal finishes of ICON and Methods. Looking at ICON Vector 5s, Recon SLX, and Rebound Pro all with 25mm BS. Looking at the Method 703s with 35mm BS.

Any opinions?
 
This thread needs more posts.

I have about 2k miles left on my Kenda Klever RTs (that'd be about 40k on them) and there are two sweet deals circulating on 37x12.5R17s that I might need to jump on soon. Cooper AT3 XLTs at Tirerack for $333 and BFG KO2s at Discount for $359. Figured I could buy the tires and wheels now then take them to the shop to finish fitment when the Kendas are done.
For wheels, I like the Titanium or Charcoal finishes of ICON and Methods. Looking at ICON Vector 5s, Recon SLX, and Rebound Pro all with 25mm BS. Looking at the Method 703s with 35mm BS.

Any opinions?

I'm in a similar situation window shopping. I was considering one if the ICON Pro wheels but have recently thought about just getting the Method 703s (bead grip) with +35mm offset. The "bead grip" just keeps things more simple vs the "innerlock technology" and the +35mm might make it easier to fit 37s and give you the option of running a small 10-15mm spacer if needed? 🤷‍♂️
 

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