Sexy pic brother. I see your ride and love that angle.I can’t speak to anything KDSS related since I’ve never even laid eyes on one. Having just switched from a 7.5” +25 with 37x12.50 ko2s to a 8.5” +10 36x11.50 toyo it does have more poke and may end up rubbing if I try to wheel it or when I inevitably tow 8500lbs. I thought my old setup would rub when I first put them on 3 years ago, but it was almost flawless.
I’ll say I think you could pull off a 37x11.50 the easiest. Having seen a 38x13.50 on a Tundra those things look absolutely MASSIVE! If you could pull off a 38 tall I’d be very impressed.
I know everyone hates on “limiting up travel” but I am a huge advocate of upgrading bump stops as part of my suspension upgrades. Especially when more lift is installed. Early engagement of bump stops can help control harsh landings while on the fast stuff while not limiting the overall uptravel when flexing off road. On the rear axle this is achieved by modifying the bump stops in the coil springs. When one side is articulating down and drooping the other is stuffing so there is no contact or limitation. When jumping railroad tracks or the like the factory in coil bumps will contact early and provide a progressive bump unlike the harsh frame mounted oem bumps.
The Timbren AOR bumps claim to not limit travel which I kind of scoffed at at first. Depends on how heavy your rig is and how you use it. I run Timbren AOR front and rear and have custom poly front front bumps and hockey pucks mounted to the rear bottom coil perches so they engage just after the Timbrens. I think a +10 puts you as far away from the body as possible without getting a ton of extra wag from too low of offset. Again I have no idea how much clearance you have now or the additional you would need but if there’s a will; there’s a way.I chose to avoid the $2,000 alignment that would have made clearance problems worse and opted for the more expensive odd size tires that I thought I could fit instead.
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A 200 is meant to have 37’s
- Thread starter LC200JG
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after reading several posts, I could use help / feedback on what may be remaining for me to fit 37s:
I have
- 2.5 inch lift with dobinsons with ucas
- +35 method 17
- 1.5 KDSS relo by Andersen
- dissent front and rear
- aggressive bmc
I believe I've heard of the following remaining paths:
Option a: adding a 1" body lift but you have to feel with a gap between bumper and frame (is this true with dissent bumpers or are they adjustable in height).
Option b (I think this is what stellar built did): roll/cut fenders. Cut rear dissent bumper. Relocate reservoir. Change tires
Option c: ?
Would appreciate any feedback from someone who has done a similar journey.
I have
- 2.5 inch lift with dobinsons with ucas
- +35 method 17
- 1.5 KDSS relo by Andersen
- dissent front and rear
- aggressive bmc
I believe I've heard of the following remaining paths:
Option a: adding a 1" body lift but you have to feel with a gap between bumper and frame (is this true with dissent bumpers or are they adjustable in height).
Option b (I think this is what stellar built did): roll/cut fenders. Cut rear dissent bumper. Relocate reservoir. Change tires
Option c: ?
Would appreciate any feedback from someone who has done a similar journey.
You'll have to revisit some of your mods.
- 2.5 inch lift with dobinsons with ucas
Both 2.5" lift and UCAs won't help. More lift actually makes the track width narrower as the control arms are at a steeper angle. Bringing things closer to the KDSS bar and/or frame. Upper UCAs increase caster by pulling the tire towards the rear of the wheel well and closer to the body mount. More lift also requires more caster so they both cascade in terms of making 37s harder to fit. Just be prepared that you'll have to do more aggressive clearancing. And possibly keep to narrow 37s.
- +35 method 17
Might not be enough offset but give it a try with narrow 37s. You might be able to get away without any fender mods this way. Watch for tire contact on the UCA at full compression and lock.
Body lift isn't really an option but a requirement for 37s. Unless you want to severely limit compression travel. Get an NST Spec Body Lift from @MTKID .
I run 37x12.5s, with a 1.5in BL and +25 wheels. I had to cut my front fenders, no way around it. I also have no front sway bar.
They rub 0 fully flexing. If your going to wheel the truck pretty hard, there is a good bit of work to be done.
They rub 0 fully flexing. If your going to wheel the truck pretty hard, there is a good bit of work to be done.
Can you post some pictures of where and how much you cut out of the front fenders? And are you on full AHC sensor lift?
37 are too big imo.....without a lift in front......looks like a fender crusher to me