Sexy pic brother. I see your ride and love that angle.I can’t speak to anything KDSS related since I’ve never even laid eyes on one. Having just switched from a 7.5” +25 with 37x12.50 ko2s to a 8.5” +10 36x11.50 toyo it does have more poke and may end up rubbing if I try to wheel it or when I inevitably tow 8500lbs. I thought my old setup would rub when I first put them on 3 years ago, but it was almost flawless.
I’ll say I think you could pull off a 37x11.50 the easiest. Having seen a 38x13.50 on a Tundra those things look absolutely MASSIVE! If you could pull off a 38 tall I’d be very impressed.
I know everyone hates on “limiting up travel” but I am a huge advocate of upgrading bump stops as part of my suspension upgrades. Especially when more lift is installed. Early engagement of bump stops can help control harsh landings while on the fast stuff while not limiting the overall uptravel when flexing off road. On the rear axle this is achieved by modifying the bump stops in the coil springs. When one side is articulating down and drooping the other is stuffing so there is no contact or limitation. When jumping railroad tracks or the like the factory in coil bumps will contact early and provide a progressive bump unlike the harsh frame mounted oem bumps.
The Timbren AOR bumps claim to not limit travel which I kind of scoffed at at first. Depends on how heavy your rig is and how you use it. I run Timbren AOR front and rear and have custom poly front front bumps and hockey pucks mounted to the rear bottom coil perches so they engage just after the Timbrens. I think a +10 puts you as far away from the body as possible without getting a ton of extra wag from too low of offset. Again I have no idea how much clearance you have now or the additional you would need but if there’s a will; there’s a way.I chose to avoid the $2,000 alignment that would have made clearance problems worse and opted for the more expensive odd size tires that I thought I could fit instead.
View attachment 3918201
A 200 is meant to have 37’s
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after reading several posts, I could use help / feedback on what may be remaining for me to fit 37s:
I have
- 2.5 inch lift with dobinsons with ucas
- +35 method 17
- 1.5 KDSS relo by Andersen
- dissent front and rear
- aggressive bmc
I believe I've heard of the following remaining paths:
Option a: adding a 1" body lift but you have to feel with a gap between bumper and frame (is this true with dissent bumpers or are they adjustable in height).
Option b (I think this is what stellar built did): roll/cut fenders. Cut rear dissent bumper. Relocate reservoir. Change tires
Option c: ?
Would appreciate any feedback from someone who has done a similar journey.
I have
- 2.5 inch lift with dobinsons with ucas
- +35 method 17
- 1.5 KDSS relo by Andersen
- dissent front and rear
- aggressive bmc
I believe I've heard of the following remaining paths:
Option a: adding a 1" body lift but you have to feel with a gap between bumper and frame (is this true with dissent bumpers or are they adjustable in height).
Option b (I think this is what stellar built did): roll/cut fenders. Cut rear dissent bumper. Relocate reservoir. Change tires
Option c: ?
Would appreciate any feedback from someone who has done a similar journey.
You'll have to revisit some of your mods.
- 2.5 inch lift with dobinsons with ucas
Both 2.5" lift and UCAs won't help. More lift actually makes the track width narrower as the control arms are at a steeper angle. Bringing things closer to the KDSS bar and/or frame. Upper UCAs increase caster by pulling the tire towards the rear of the wheel well and closer to the body mount. More lift also requires more caster so they both cascade in terms of making 37s harder to fit. Just be prepared that you'll have to do more aggressive clearancing. And possibly keep to narrow 37s.
- +35 method 17
Might not be enough offset but give it a try with narrow 37s. You might be able to get away without any fender mods this way. Watch for tire contact on the UCA at full compression and lock.
Body lift isn't really an option but a requirement for 37s. Unless you want to severely limit compression travel. Get an NST Spec Body Lift from @MTKID .
I run 37x12.5s, with a 1.5in BL and +25 wheels. I had to cut my front fenders, no way around it. I also have no front sway bar.
They rub 0 fully flexing. If your going to wheel the truck pretty hard, there is a good bit of work to be done.
They rub 0 fully flexing. If your going to wheel the truck pretty hard, there is a good bit of work to be done.
Can you post some pictures of where and how much you cut out of the front fenders? And are you on full AHC sensor lift?
37 are too big imo.....without a lift in front......looks like a fender crusher to me
Interesting, looks like these guys in Russia have managed to fit 37's with what looks to be low-offset wheels, factory arms, KDSS, stock bumpers (good amount of chopping):
Can't tell if a body lift like by @MTKID has been done.
Can't tell if a body lift like by @MTKID has been done.
They have a different front sway bar, so no KDSS.
FYI with my 1.5” KDSS relo (and sway bar end links outside the cradle) I have enough clearance on +25 offset wheels to fit a 36” tire. (E.g. my 35s for without rubbing and there’s still a finger of space on the KDSS arm). I don’t think I could fit a 37 without contacting the arm though at full lock.
Also the fenders… i ever so slightly will clip mine on the edge of the tire lugs when hard turning off-road and taking a hard bounce. I need a 1/2” body lift or some fender rolling, and a 37 would make both a necessity. Also like a BMC.
It’s awfully tempting though…
This is the recipe they're using - giant bump stop limiters that likely limit uptravel by 2". That's 2 steps forward but 2 steps back IMO. Hard to tell but it doesn't look like there is a body lift.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Chopped fenders over extended bump stops for life!
I put "37's" (36.5") on mine. No body lift and no bump spacers. This was a challenge with tundra arms as this allows the tires to travel further up into the body.
For the front, I had to cut and raise the inner fenders up an inch to allow the full travel, which was pretty time consuming. This raised the inner fender components up an inch too. The windshield washer tank was also removed, TBD what I'll do to get a functioning tank.
The usual body mount, pinch weld and fender clearancing was also required.
For the rear, fender and pinch weld was required. I'm still rubbing a little in the wheel wells deep into the up travel, so a might have to do a little cutting and raising. Hopefully just a BFH.
For the front, I had to cut and raise the inner fenders up an inch to allow the full travel, which was pretty time consuming. This raised the inner fender components up an inch too. The windshield washer tank was also removed, TBD what I'll do to get a functioning tank.
The usual body mount, pinch weld and fender clearancing was also required.
For the rear, fender and pinch weld was required. I'm still rubbing a little in the wheel wells deep into the up travel, so a might have to do a little cutting and raising. Hopefully just a BFH.
There bottle/reservoir relo kits already available. It moves the bottle up to the front crossmember in front of the radiator but behind the grill.
Incredible what these guys can do. But I’m not saying the Russians aren’t building amazing rigs—they always seem to—yet I suspect there’s more going on here than simply bolting on 37s and trimming a bumper.
I’m on 34.5 x 13 Wildpeak AT4s with:
I have 10 mm Bora spacers that would probably solve it, but I don’t want the additional poke. A conventional 35x12 or 35x12.5 would likely rub less, and the thicker sway bar is definitely costing me some inner clearance—although it dramatically improved the LX’s on-road feel (the rig is so much more premium and luxury feeling in driving dynamics now).
So based on my set up and what I went through to make it all work, I have a hard time believing 37s run completely rub-free with anything less than 25 offset without going pizza cutter tires, or, additional suspension, AHC, alignment, or body modifications that aren’t immediately obvious.
I’m on 34.5 x 13 Wildpeak AT4s with:
- 18x9 Method wheels, +25 offset
- 1.5-inch body lift + UCA's
- 33 mm Whiteline front sway bar
- PerryParts bump stops at stock height
- Factory AHC sensor settings
- Minor bumper trimming and a BMC by them boys at Stellar
I have 10 mm Bora spacers that would probably solve it, but I don’t want the additional poke. A conventional 35x12 or 35x12.5 would likely rub less, and the thicker sway bar is definitely costing me some inner clearance—although it dramatically improved the LX’s on-road feel (the rig is so much more premium and luxury feeling in driving dynamics now).
So based on my set up and what I went through to make it all work, I have a hard time believing 37s run completely rub-free with anything less than 25 offset without going pizza cutter tires, or, additional suspension, AHC, alignment, or body modifications that aren’t immediately obvious.
I’ve got about 3,000 miles on my ‘21 LX570 running 37x12.5R17 Falken AT4Ws. At this point, I’m down to two very minor clearance issues:
- A slight rub on the front sway bar at full steering lock.
- A very slight rub on the front edge of my CBI bumper, but only under hard braking from highway speeds as the suspension compresses.
There’s definitely no cookie-cutter, bolt-on solution for fitting 37s on a 200 Series/LX570, but with a bit of trimming, tweaking, and patience, it’s honestly not that difficult to make it work.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Just FYI, I had to trim 2” off the dissent wings on each side to clear at full bump/lock
Do you have the NST body lift on your truck? I had the boys at Dissent make me a custom bracket that accounts for the 1.5inch body lift, so hoping that will give me the extra clearance needed to not have to cut the wings.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Yup, 1” - you’ll be shocked though at how high you can actually stuff the tires at full bump. I use this picture a lot as the example. I trimmed more after this but you can see the issue.