A 200 is meant to have 37’s (2 Viewers)

[nwfl4runner]

I'm in a similar situation window shopping. I was considering one if the ICON Pro wheels but have recently thought about just getting the Method 703s (bead grip) with +35mm offset. The "bead grip" just keeps things more simple vs the "innerlock technology" and the +35mm might make it easier to fit 37s and give you the option of running a small 10-15mm spacer if needed?

I'd check wheel pockets if you're gonna run a spacer less than 1.25" because of studs.

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm not sure +35 offset will be sufficient to run 37s. Someone will have to try to sort it out, but I went from +35 to +28 for the below reasons.

The UCA is definitely a concern and the tire will interfere with the arm at greater steering angles and compression. There may be a good aftermarket arm that has stock caster geometry and better clearances. I say stock caster as caster corrected UCAs will create other problem like bringing the tire too close to the body mount.

The other clearance issue is at big steering angles, the inner part of the tire will come close to touching the frame. It'll touch the wheel well engine covers. And also the sway bar is a concern.

Maybe a narrow 37 can help make this work?

 

[Tanaman]

I feel like this is a good place to ask just because I’m coming to a point where things are starting to happen with my build and I’d like to be as ready as I can be.

Rock warriors… with 1.25” spidertrax spacers and 37x12.5x17s is the plan right now…. I know that puts me at like +18 offset total so it’s probably going to be into the fenders but is it worth trying to source some different offset wheels more in the 25-35 range? Or just go for it and cut to fit?

being KDSS at the moment I know that’s likely going to be a bigger concern but I’m trying to figure out what is likely the best recipe for success.

Any and all guidance is much appreciated!

 

[nwfl4runner]

I feel like this is a good place to ask just because I’m coming to a point where things are starting to happen with my build and I’d like to be as ready as I can be.

Rock warriors… with 1.25” spidertrax spacers and 37x12.5x17s is the plan right now…. I know that puts me at like +18 offset total so it’s probably going to be into the fenders but is it worth trying to source some different offset wheels more in the 25-35 range? Or just go for it and cut to fit?

being KDSS at the moment I know that’s likely going to be a bigger concern but I’m trying to figure out what is likely the best recipe for success.

Any and all guidance is much appreciated!

Sticking with stock arms, or considering swapping to Tundra arms?

 

[Tanaman]

Sticking with stock arms, or considering swapping to Tundra arms?

Plan was to stick with stock arms…. I’d have to do uppers, lowers and coilovers if I went tundra arms right?

 

[teejnut]

I'm not sure +35 offset will be sufficient to run 37s. Someone will have to try to sort it out, but I went from +35 to +28 for the below reasons.

The UCA is definitely a concern and the tire will interfere with the arm at greater steering angles and compression. There may be a good aftermarket arm that has stock caster geometry and better clearances. I say stock caster as caster corrected UCAs will create other problem like bringing the tire too close to the body mount.

The other clearance issue is at big steering angles, the inner part of the tire will come close to touching the frame. It'll touch the wheel well engine covers. And also the sway bar is a concern.

Maybe a narrow 37 can help make this work?

I wish Methods made a 17” wheel with +25 and bead grip…

 

[nwfl4runner]

Plan was to stick with stock arms…. I’d have to do uppers, lowers and coilovers if I went tundra arms right?

Uppers/lowers/outer tie rods, and coils. You can use your current shocks if you want, but if you're going all they way it would make sense to get new ones given the change in shock angle. (edit - like @turbo8 said, axles!)

Back to your original question, I had RW and 1.25 spidertrax on stock arms and was hitting the frame at full lock on 37s, hence why I went to tundra arms. I was also hitting the front swaybar, but I have an LX so I couldn't tell you how close to the KDSS arm you would be (but I bet rubbing). If you're OK with that, then you could do a 1" body lift, body mount chop, drop front spacers and save your fenders (except likely right in front of the body mount).

If you're intending to go all out then I'd pick your favorite wheels and make them fit. You'll be cutting so much the fenders will be the least of your concern!

 

[turbo8]

Don't forget the axles.

 

[Tanaman]

Uppers/lowers/outer tie rods, and coils. You can use your current shocks if you want, but if you're going all they way it would make sense to get new ones given the change in shock angle. (edit - like @turbo8 said, axles!)

Back to your original question, I had RW and 1.25 spidertrax on stock arms and was hitting the frame at full lock on 37s, hence why I went to tundra arms. I was also hitting the front swaybar, but I have an LX so I couldn't tell you how close to the KDSS arm you would be (but I bet rubbing). If you're OK with that, then you could do a 1" body lift, body mount chop, drop front spacers and save your fenders (except likely right in front of the body mount).

If you're intending to go all out then I'd pick your favorite wheels and make them fit. You'll be cutting so much the fenders will be the least of your concern!

Already have the 1.5” body lift in and waiting on my kings to show up so I’ll likely just stick with my plan and make it all fit as is. I’m having a hell of a time finding a spare rock warrior that’s reasonable right now though. Shouldn’t be a big deal long term as I’m sure one will show up.

Maybe one day I’ll go tundra arms and associated parts but for now I think this should be a fun setup.

My rear bumper from @turbo8 should be here tomorrow so I’m going to get that in this weekend. Super excited!

 

[Heckraiser]

Curious to see how the E&E bumper looks with a body lift. Be sure to post pics

 

[ryanCA]

I'm not sure +35 offset will be sufficient to run 37s. Someone will have to try to sort it out, but I went from +35 to +28 for the below reasons.

The UCA is definitely a concern and the tire will interfere with the arm at greater steering angles and compression. There may be a good aftermarket arm that has stock caster geometry and better clearances. I say stock caster as caster corrected UCAs will create other problem like bringing the tire too close to the body mount.

The other clearance issue is at big steering angles, the inner part of the tire will come close to touching the frame. It'll touch the wheel well engine covers. And also the sway bar is a concern.

Maybe a narrow 37 can help make this work?

i have +35 methods on mine. given the work 37s require (i am not ready for), what is biggest tire you would recommen? I run 275/65/18 now

 

[teejnut]

What's everyone's thoughts on 18" wheel/tire vs a 17" wheel/tire?

What are the downsides of going with a 18" setup? Seems like cost is the biggest downside. 2nd is the tire selection, but the usual Toyo, Falken, Nitto, BFG comes in 37x12.5x18 E-rated.

 

[Heckraiser]

17" is cheaper, you got that right. And you'll also have more choices in a 17. Pretty much all the major and most of the minor manufacturers make 17" sizes, so you got that right too. I also prefer a C or D rated tire for ride quality and sidewall compliance. I'm not aware of any 18" truck tires that are NOT E-rated. My ride quality improved soooo much when I ditched my E-rated Nittos and got D rated Mickey Thompsons.

Also more sidewall translates to more aired down compliance and less risk of pinch flat (though at 37" tires, not much difference at this point). More sidewall = more big truck tire looks

 

[Tanaman]

Curious to see how the E&E bumper looks with a body lift. Be sure to post pics

I’ll be sure to post some pics when it’s all done

 

[dubyahard]

I'm not sure +35 offset will be sufficient to run 37s. Someone will have to try to sort it out, but I went from +35 to +28 for the below reasons.

The UCA is definitely a concern and the tire will interfere with the arm at greater steering angles and compression. There may be a good aftermarket arm that has stock caster geometry and better clearances. I say stock caster as caster corrected UCAs will create other problem like bringing the tire too close to the body mount.

The other clearance issue is at big steering angles, the inner part of the tire will come close to touching the frame. It'll touch the wheel well engine covers. And also the sway bar is a concern.

Maybe a narrow 37 can help make this work?

So If I'm running 1.5" spacers now and use the ICONs with 25mm offset, is that too much offset? Or do I need to take the spacers off and just use the methods (35mm) or icons (25mm)?

 

[Tanaman]

So If I'm running 1.5" spacers now and use the ICONs with 25mm offset, is that too much offset? Or do I need to take the spacers off and just use the methods (35mm) or icons (25mm)?

If you leave the spacers on and do 25mm wheels you will have a total offset of -13mm or so which would be pretty dramatic and stick out well past the fenders

 

[dubyahard]

If you leave the spacers on and do 25mm wheels you will have a total offset of -13mm or so which would be pretty dramatic and stick out well past the fenders

So wheels and no spacers then.

 

[Tanaman]

So wheels and no spacers then.

That’s definitely what I would recommend. I’m shooting for around 20mm offset and it’s going to be difficult to make it all fit but it should be a fun challenge

 

[TeCKis300]

i have +35 methods on mine. given the work 37s require (i am not ready for), what is biggest tire you would recommen? I run 275/65/18 now

+35s are the perfect offset to run a full fat 35x12.5R18. It's honestly pretty straightforward and something that could be done in a weekend on the LX. This biggest open secret to huge capability for cheap is to buy a 2016+ LX570 and throw 35s on it. All the good stuff of gearing, brakes, and suspension is already there.

Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX

Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...

forum.ih8mud.com

What's everyone's thoughts on 18" wheel/tire vs a 17" wheel/tire?

What are the downsides of going with a 18" setup? Seems like cost is the biggest downside. 2nd is the tire selection, but the usual Toyo, Falken, Nitto, BFG comes in 37x12.5x18 E-rated.

I have a different take that is probably in contrast to most. A lot of this is also because I'm not strictly looking to build a one dimensional rock crawler or relaxed overlander. I drive aggressively on-road and off-road, including towing big loads.

There's definitely a trade that is not great to running smaller wheels. Especially so when running even taller tires.

The traction control system will complain in more aggressive driving because of all the added compliance and sideslip. Handling limits on-road and on tight switchbacks get reduced substantially with smaller wheels and more sidewall. The added sideslip will cause the traction control to interfere with a beep beep, grabbing of brakes, and cutting of power. Simple things like a more aggressive right hand turn at an intersection to merge can trip the traction control.

This also impacts off-road and aggressive baja style driving where again the traction control will kick in. Airing down only further exacerbates the problem off-road. I hate that as I like to drive spiritedly offroad.

There are some mitigations like using more air pressure than RCTIP, which can help bring limits back to a degree. At the cost to ride quality and compliance. Off-road, turning on the center diff will disable traction control for more fun again, but I only do this on more lose surfaces.

Long way to say for 35s and 37s, I prefer 18s.

I already miss my 35x12.5s on dubs for the added performance and pace. Same reason I dislike narrows that compromise cornering, and will always go full fat.

So If I'm running 1.5" spacers now and use the ICONs with 25mm offset, is that too much offset? Or do I need to take the spacers off and just use the methods (35mm) or icons (25mm)?

I don't think I linked my 37s build thread which should give some more insight into offset. My goals may be different than most as I'm running full fenders on only a .75" body lift. Most doing 37s have chosen a taller BL and cut fenders. Just don't underestimate how much uptravel there is into the fenders.

LX570 Build v37 for 37s

Stock on 31s, then 33s, 35s, and now what feels like build v37 of Flexus on 37s. Can't leave well enough alone and it's an itch that must be scratched. Previous build on 35s - Builds - TeCKis300 LX570 "FLX" Build -...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Supra Turbo]

i have +35 methods on mine. given the work 37s require (i am not ready for), what is biggest tire you would recommen? I run 275/65/18 now