Builds MTKID's LX on 40's @tiny_the_200 (7 Viewers)

[MTKID]

I've owned a 60 series (that never ran), a 94' 80 series (on 315’s), 97' 100 (on 37's) and now this 200...

We purchased in Aug. 18’ w/ 175k miles and the first photo I took of it was getting 34” winter tires tossed on a few months later…

Happy to answer any questions as they come up…

 

[MTKID]

At that time I still had my 100 series and the 200 was the family rig… I tossed on 34” Cooper AT’s on another set of RW wheels I had for the summer wheels & tires…

I also modified the spare tire location to accommodate what seemed like the largest size I could fit underneath, while also doing the spare tire mount raise, like what is done to the 80 & 100 series…

@TeCKis300 had also posted that he thought the OEM strut spacer could be used on an LX, so I went for it along with 30mm rear coil spacers.

 

[MTKID]

In 2019 my 100 series got hailed out and I let the insurance have it for what seemed like a reasonable amount at that time. This is the last photo I have of it…

I kept the OMF modified true beadlock RW wheels, 37” tires and other easily removed items for the possibility of building something else. And while waiting for that something else, I had to just try some test fitting on what was, at that time, my wife’s 200 series…

My wife wasn’t impressed but images like this tend to get stuck in my mind for some reason.

 

[MTKID]

I had already done a body lift on my 80 & 100. 1” on both, but before the 100 went away, I had been testing how a 40 could fit under it…

What I found was that the front could benefit from a taller body lift than 1” to allow the tire to turn w/ minimum additional cutting and the rear didn’t necessarily need much more.

Since I had already owned 37” tires, and I knew if I ever had the chance to put 40’s under a rig I would chase after it in a heartbeat, I chose to research and create a tapered body lift. I decided on 1 3/4” at the front tapered to 1 1/4” at the back…

Some of the middle bolts I used…

Some front crash bar styrofoam trimming needed

New position sitting in Low

New position in Normal

New position in AHC High

…completed in early 2021 and those were my 34” winter tires You can see how the extra space now looked like 37’s would be easier. (Also, by this time, you can see I removed the door trim)

I liked the look even just on the little 34’s…

 

[MTKID]

In March 21’ it rolled over 200k miles, so I think that’s the official safe time to start cutting up sheet metal…

And by June of 21’ I had cut enough of the front fenders, front & rear Tupperware bumpers, front and rear pinch welds and moved or chopped the front cab body mount to get it on the 37’s…

AHC Normal the first night I got to drive it…

AHC High…

 

[MTKID]

I put it to use on a lot of local trails this way and placed 4.88 gears and e-lockers on order to be built by Zuk. I also had the ring & pinions cryo’d, shot-peened, and REM surface treated. Hoping these things help with longevity and reliability.

 

[grinchy]

great info and pics

 

[TeCKis300]

Been waiting for this thread! A fresh take on building a beast.

 

[MTKID]

A few other modifications that were done along the way…

Replaced peeling wood trim with as close of a match of fabric on the doors…

Durobump front bumpstops…

Apex Designs Quick Deflation valve…

Dobinsons UCA w/ a custom AHC tab welded on…

ScanGuage in ashtray…

Custom OMF engraved center caps…

 

[TR4RUNNER]

A few other modifications that were done along the way…

Replaced peeling wood trim with as close of a match of fabric on the doors…
View attachment 3099428View attachment 3099430

Durobump front bumpstops…
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Apex Designs Quick Deflation valve…
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Dobinsons UCA w/ an AHC tab welded on…
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ScanGuage in ashtray…
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Custom OMF engraved center caps…
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MTKid- would love to hear and see how you replaced wood door trim with fabric. Yours looks great, better than original if you ask me, and mine badly needs replacing. Thanks

 

[MTKID]

MTKid- would love to hear and see how you replaced wood door trim with fabric. Yours looks great, better than original if you ask me, and mine badly needs replacing. Thanks

I don’t have a lot of photos but I have a friend that does upholstery. I removed the door card and removed that portion around the seat memory buttons (Lexus does not offer it separately). If I recall, there are a few screws, and a few clips keeping that piece more than secure.

I dropped off that small part at my friends shop, we looked at a number of sample materials out in the sunlight, picking a close one and he then carefully removed the failing wood veneer. (I think I may have broken one tab removing this side but it still went back together plenty secure)

The passenger side veneer wasn’t peeling but I wanted them to match. The upholsterer did not remove the veneer from this side, but rather scratched up the surface so the glue would have something to bite and just went over the top…

 

[Killacaviar]

Workin hard! Can’t wait to read through this tonight.

 

[ikarus]

I put it to use on a lot of local trails this way and placed 4.88 gears and e-lockers on order to be built by Zuk.
View attachment 3099250
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Goose Lake and Morrison?

 

[MTKID]

Goose Lake and Morrison?

Goose, Independence, then two from two different trips up Morrison

And the video that went with that Goose Lake trip…

 

[TR4RUNNER]

I don’t have a lot of photos but I have a friend that does upholstery. I removed the door card and removed that portion around the seat memory buttons (Lexus does not offer it separately). If I recall, there are a few screws, and a few clips keeping that piece more than secure.

View attachment 3099562

I dropped off that small part at my friends shop, we looked at a number of sample materials out in the sunlight, picking a close one and he then carefully removed the failing wood veneer. (I think I may have broken one tab removing this side but it still went back together plenty secure)

View attachment 3099563

The passenger side veneer wasn’t peeling but I wanted them to match. The upholsterer did not remove the veneer from this side, but rather scratched up the surface so the glue would have something to bite and just went over the top…
View attachment 3099564

Thanks for info MTKID!

 

[Omega3651]

Wonder if Lexus door cards would fit in a LC?
I believe the Lexus door cards have built in window shades. I would like those window shades in the LC.
Are the Lexus door cards padded where your elbow sits?
In the LC they are just hard plastic, not the most comfortable after hours of driving.

 

[MTKID]

Wonder if Lexus door cards would fit in a LC?
I believe the Lexus door cards have built in window shades. I would like those window shades in the LC.
Are the Lexus door cards padded where your elbow sits?
In the LC they are just hard plastic, not the most comfortable after hours of driving.

The window sill isn’t padded and my 08’ doesn’t have any window shades, but down where my elbow normally sits where it extends forward to the pull handle, that is padded and pretty comfy for my skinny little elbow
The Lexus door cards were quoted at over $1k, so I didn’t go that route possibly some used LC ones could be found for a reasonable amount? This was and still is the only peeling wood veneer in my rig, so I’m happy.

 

[Killacaviar]

I would love some more detail on the BL. Photos of the pucks you used? Where did you source everything etc

 

[MTKID]

I’ll try to outline the body lift a little more, but you’re going to want to kill me, I didn’t record everything real clearly and hope this helps…

I took the time to remove all of the factory bolts and measure them. I found that the four main cab mount bolts could probably be used in other locations since they were longer than the front and back.

I think these were photographed back to front…

I think I purchased six new bolts of the position three and two more of position two (from the front). The longest of the factory bolts. Then, for position three location I purchased two standard grade 8 bolts from the local Tacoma Screw Products. The shiny new bolts from my previous post.

I tried measuring for the diameter of the body lift spacers that I would need and spoke to Roger Brown - 4Crawler.com and ordered bulk UHMW in the diameters that I thought were needed but I measured the front one incorrectly…

I had a local machinist take these down to the thicknesses written on them. And then I had to have one pair (the front 1 3/4” tall pair needed to be smaller in diameter than my initial measuring) machined down in diameter. Also, I tried and failed to dye these black with RIT dye. So I ended up wrapping good 3m electrical tape around each one to hide them and the tape has survived fine.

Here’s my quote from the Body Lift thread started by @MScruiser and these are what I believe to be my final correct diameters used…
“I measured and I have 3.5” diameter in locations 2 & 3. 2.25” in position 1 (front most) and 3” in position 4 (rear)”

Yup. Fat Amy gets a body lift.

No I didn’t do it. I may do a small (5/8”) body lift at some point. I haven’t looked yet to see how much stuff will be affected. @MScruiser spent more than a day on it, so it isn't trivial.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[MTKID]

Then there’s the issue of connections and the radiator fan. I’m a little redneck, so I merely cut a moon shape out of my radiator shroud. Two reasons for this decision, simplicity of not needing to create brackets to drop it down, and really wanting to keep it higher so that when I create the front bumper, the bottom will be able to sit even a little higher. I reached up from underneath with my Dremel w/ the extension wand on it…

For connections, there is a clamp holding some lines to a cooler in front of the radiator. I merely moved the line up to the top space on the clamp. Seems secure just holding one line.

On the passenger side there is another support clamp from the same cooler lines in front of the front tire that needs loosened. Look for something bolted to the outside of the frame just behind the front passenger body mount.

I loosened the trailer harness wiring and I think there is one additional frame clamp on something near there. This was on the inside of the frame rail.

Finally, there is the issue of the steering linkage. I loosened what I think is the sleeve that should allow movement, but I failed to mark where it was to begin with, so I don’t know if it slid out to the new spot or stretched something. I have no reference, but I tightened it back down and everything has been fine.

There’s also a small body to crossmember bolt that’s somewhere near the back of the second row that should be loosened. I think it’s on the body mount diagram but you will need to get under the carpet there to loosen it too. You’ll see it if you’re looking up under the car. It’s between the frame rails nearer to the middle.

I’ll add anything else as I think of it.