A 200 is meant to have 37’s (15 Viewers)

[ga12r1]

I agree with what @bloc said about the bearing requiring the support from the shaft engagement into the diff - it's not like a unit bearing on the front (unit bearings have 2 bearings and are designed for those forces). If I'm not mistaken, the rear bearing is just that - a single bearing with no means for torsional(?) support. You could probably make it a few miles to get off the trail with the shaft cut off, but you're definitely not making it from Moab to GA.

How far have you been able to drive these trucks with the rear axle disengaged from the 3rd?

 

[bryson]

How far have you been able to drive these trucks with the rear axle disengaged from the 3rd?

I don't want to argue with you Lee, I am just pointing out that the rear bearing is certainly not designed for those types of loads and I wouldn't trust it beyond limping it off the trail like you have done.

 

[ga12r1]

I don't want to argue with you Lee, I am just pointing out that the rear bearing is certainly not designed for those types of loads and I wouldn't trust it beyond limping it off the trail like you have done.

Not trying to argue. I was just curious what your experience had been with it. Saying i could drive from Moab back to Ga was a bit of hyperbole (although I would not hesitate to do it if no other option existed) but I do think i could’ve gotten from Moab to SLC no problem. I drove it off the trail and then from the Spanish Arena to the airport about 20-30 miles. The entire time it felt like someone was beating the bottom of the truck with a gigantic hammer because of the unsupported axle flailing around.
When the axle was pulled again the bearing was still tight as a tick.
I just think that sometimes we don’t give these trucks credit for how strong they are. Even when outside of design parameters.
And next time I’ll be ready to at least cut the shaft off so it’s not banging around. I honestly think it will get me to the closest/best shop to do the work. Or if I’m on the east coast home to do it myself

 

[bloc]

Point taken about hyperbole. I was picturing a lot of miles for something dramatic to happen, but you’re right that it would probably give plenty of warning.

I agree with what @bloc said about the bearing requiring the support from the shaft engagement into the diff - it's not like a unit bearing on the front (unit bearings have 2 bearings and are designed for those forces). If I'm not mistaken, the rear bearing is just that - a single bearing with no means for torsional(?) support. You could probably make it a few miles to get off the trail with the shaft cut off, but you're definitely not making it from Moab to GA.

It’s actually a two-row bearing but with much less spacing between the races than the front (which dramatically changes the forces each race sees) and only a slip collar to hold the inner races together vs the huge bolt on the front. If you want to see pictures check out the thread where I disassembled my failed rear bearing out of curiosity.

Rear axle bearing postmortem

Some of you may have been watching my process to track down a rumble/whine/bearing noise over the past few months. That thread is here: New driveline noise after lift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-driveline-noise-after-lift.1228472/ Turns out it was a rear axle bearing, which is...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ga12r1]

Yes. The bearings are VERY heavy duty. Interestingly enough I’ve had to replace both driver and passenger around the 160k mark. They failed within 7k miles of each other.
My truck shakes and rattles a lot, but like you said in your thread dead giveaway was ABS codes. That wouldn’t go away even after changing sensors from front to back. If that happens it’s usually the bearing.

 

[bloc]

Yes. The bearings are VERY heavy duty. Interestingly enough I’ve had to replace both driver and passenger around the 160k mark. They failed within 7k miles of each other.
My truck shakes and rattles a lot, but like you said in your thread dead giveaway was ABS codes. That wouldn’t go away even after changing sensors from front to back. If that happens it’s usually the bearing.

My passenger failed, which is what the thread was about. I changed the driver side preemptively because you weren’t the only one with that phenomenon but on disassembly it was perfectly fine. Still glad to have it done.

 

[ga12r1]

My passenger failed, which is what the thread was about. I changed the driver side preemptively because you weren’t the only one with that phenomenon but on disassembly it was perfectly fine. Still glad to have it done.

Both of mine were pretty loose when I pulled the axles. I didn’t cut them apart but you could move the splined end back and forth 2” with the bearing end stationary
Coincidentally I lost both original fronts about the same time.

 

[ga12r1]

Ive been meaning to pick up a set of salvage axle/bearing assemblies and cut the backing plate off of one. Then wrap it tight and keep it in the truck as a trail spare. I need to look at it closer but with the backing plate cut off I think enough slack could be had in the brake lines to use it on either side in a pinch.

 

[bryson]

I definitely agree with @ga12r1 's comment about hating that 200s don't have full float axles - it would be rad if someone made a bolt-on spindle that indexes in the current bearing pocket and allowed use of a later 7x series rear wheel hub, bearings and a custom length axle shaft(I assume 7x stuff is narrower). Hell, I'd even weld a spindle on to have FF...

 

[MTKID]

Can anyone see any problem (aside from a little reduced clearance to the fan for maintenance) to have the radiator drop brackets 3/8” thick?

If no one objects, that will be the thickness of the part.

Also, is this circled hole in use on anyone’s 200? We intend to use it.

Or does anyone not have that hole present?

 

[nwfl4runner]

I think 3/8 should fit once assembled - the only issue is it’s a tight fit on the lower 2 spacers. I know the radiator was hitting the fan as I tried to tighten the screws and my bracket was 1/4”

Granted, I was lazy and in retrospect I’d have yanked the fan

 

[DrivenLyfe]

So the .75” BL doesn’t require any additional modification?

How long is the anticipated time until it becomes available?

Thank you for going out of your way to offer something to the market for those of us trying to fit 37s with minimal or simplistic mods. Think I could fit 37s with some mods I have referenced before, but if this helps provide additional clearance with no real negative impacts or complications I am all for it.

 

[MTKID]

So the .75” BL doesn’t require any additional modification?

How long is the anticipated time until it becomes available?

Thank you for going out of your way to offer something to the market for those of us trying to fit 37s with minimal or simplistic mods. Think I could fit 37s with some mods I have referenced before, but if this helps provide additional clearance with no real negative impacts or complications I am all for it.

The .75” thickness was just a test run for a friend. He is planning on figuring out his own radiator drop bracket.

The problem with .75” is the drop bracket doesn’t appear to expose the center of the offset hardware to be able to tighten it. But with 1”, at least the center of the offset flat head hardware allows you to reach the Allen head portion. 1.5” makes inserting the hardware as you lower it in place possible, which is easiest.

That’s not to say a 3/4” drop bracket isn’t possible but we haven’t explored it specifically and this is becoming a much more elaborate, expensive and time consuming project than expected. I’m still on board though. It just may take more time. Probably looking at only being able to offer 5 sets of 1.5” first, with the first install getting done April 4th. Then eventually the 1” kits.

 

[NoClue]

looks like the falken wildpeak RT will come in 37x11.5x17. wish more tire companies would follow this trend!

 

[Heckraiser]

The .75” thickness was just a test run for a friend. He is planning on figuring out his own radiator drop bracket.

The problem with .75” is the drop bracket doesn’t appear to expose the center of the offset hardware to be able to tighten it. But with 1”, at least the center of the offset flat head hardware allows you to reach the Allen head portion. 1.5” makes inserting the hardware as you lower it in place possible, which is easiest.

That’s not to say a 3/4” drop bracket isn’t possible but we haven’t explored it specifically and this is becoming a much more elaborate, expensive and time consuming project than expected. I’m still on board though. It just may take more time. Probably looking at only being able to offer 5 sets of 1.5” first, with the first install getting done April 4th. Then eventually the 1” kits.

In for 1" kit whenever it's ready

 

[MTKID]

looks like the falken wildpeak RT will come in 37x11.5x17. wish more tire companies would follow this trend!

Absolutely agree!!! Is that size available yet? I’d also like to see some more 38x12.5’s other than the Nitto.

In for 1" kit whenever it's ready

Thank you man! Here’s the logo my creative daughter helped come up with. Website parked. I’m excited to do a lot more than body lift kits. If I can just keep my excitement going.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

In for 1” or 1.5”, guess it just depends on final install complexity.

 

[teejnut]

What's everyone's plan to deal with aftermarket front/rear bumpers and sliders with a body lift?

 

[DrivenLyfe]

The .75” thickness was just a test run for a friend. He is planning on figuring out his own radiator drop bracket.

The problem with .75” is the drop bracket doesn’t appear to expose the center of the offset hardware to be able to tighten it. But with 1”, at least the center of the offset flat head hardware allows you to reach the Allen head portion. 1.5” makes inserting the hardware as you lower it in place possible, which is easiest.

That’s not to say a 3/4” drop bracket isn’t possible but we haven’t explored it specifically and this is becoming a much more elaborate, expensive and time consuming project than expected. I’m still on board though. It just may take more time. Probably looking at only being able to offer 5 sets of 1.5” first, with the first install getting done April 4th. Then eventually the 1” kits.

I appreciate the clarity. I thought the 3/4” body lift was one that did not require the radiator drop or modification to steering input shaft modification. I have been doing a lot of research as I prep for suspension refresh and mods with the intent of moving up to 37s when my 35s were out and must have missed those details.

Does the 1/2” body lift avoid the radiator drop and steering modification? These two mods and any modification to my hidden winch mount, while still gaining additional clearance would be ideal.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

What's everyone's plan to deal with aftermarket front/rear bumpers and sliders with a body lift?

Not the answer you're probably looking for, but I've been patiently holding off so that BL goes first and then all necessary tupperware trimming can accommodate the gaps.

That said, my 80 has a 1" body lift (post bumpers/sliders) and the gap is not very noticeable, plus it provides room for extra bumper flex