Yes! Absolutely 4.88 with 37s.
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (14 Viewers)
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Yes! Absolutely 4.88 with 37s.
Coming from someone who just finished breaking in the 4.88 gears on 37s I see your point of view. However, having an aftermarket exhaust, my 4.88 running at 60mph is super droney lol. I can’t imagine a 5.29 on the highway lol. That’s just me.
That's your aftermarket exhaust's fault.
Factory exhaust, 4.88s and 35s. I don't notice any exhaust drone on the highway... all my noise is from tires and wind (roof rack). Closing the sunroof helps a bit.
Practically speaking, 37s should be slightly better noise-wise since they'd put you a few RPMs lower.
I also don't notice any drone or excessive noise when towing in 5th on the highway, which revs me higher, 4th is noisier when towing but I expect that at ~3500 rpms and it's not exhaust drone from the rear just good 'ol fashioned V8 revs from the front.
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Yeah. I was gonna say the same thing. Revs are just to low in 6th. Heck even in 4th.
I run a Flowmaster Super 44 (mainly for weight and space savings) with a turnout behind driver rear and I don’t notice it all on the HWY. Its definitely noticeable on the trail though
.5”?Don’t be giving anyone any ideas about .5”. Next thing you know someone will ask for .25”
1” should be a good starting point for anyone to consider 37’s, but 1.5” is best, imo. .75” maybe if someone is just trying to give themselves a little extra for an aggressive 35” tire.
I was only planning on offering 1” to start and 1.5” sometime after that.
If you’re starting a build, don’t take baby steps with the body lift. Do it once and build the protection around that height.
(And your chart should say “Highly Motivated” for the last column)
Yeah, right? And .625"!
I do think there is merit to a .75" body lift over the 1"? All the body mount bolts seem to have 3/4" excess thread with the exception of #2 that has 5/8". #2 also has an extra thick washer. Solutions could be to replace with a thinner washer and/or normal nut over the castle nut and be fine without replacing any body mount bolts? That would allow a BL without buying or shuffling of any body mount bolts?
From what I'm seeing of 35s, I do think I can squeeze 37s in with a .75" BL and just the slightest .25" shimming of OEM bump stops. Most going with aftermarket bumps like Durobumps will have more clearance to the body.
This is #2. Sorry about the pic without the display active as it was flashing on low batt, but it read .65"
Some 3/4” going out for testing…
Anyone who has been involved in figuring out a manufacturing process knows things aren’t fast. And this stuff doesn’t cut like metal, but be patient, I’ll keep working towards offering something as soon as I can.
Anyone who has been involved in figuring out a manufacturing process knows things aren’t fast. And this stuff doesn’t cut like metal, but be patient, I’ll keep working towards offering something as soon as I can.
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But does it melt?
Yes, it does melt. But at about 266 degrees. And I have seen photos of an exhaust too close and partially melting one, but I don’t think that’s a problem on our chassis. One source shows 180 degree “maximum continuous service temp in air”, again, good to know but I don’t think this should be an issue where these are located. They haven’t been an issue on any of my three vehicles using UHMW.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Never done body mounts before. How hard are these to install?
Sorry, I was very unclear. I was suggesting that instead of milling perhaps they could be shaped by hot wire or similar.
You’re a saint
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Not hard, but you need access to the pinch weld on each side by removing the plastic. Lot of bolts to loosen, including under the second row.
Oh, I see. I’ll have to research that method
bloc
SILVER Star
No harm to the diff?
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Nope. Pulled the 3rd and flushed everything as good as could be done. There were a few marks from the axle flopping around (I ended up having to drive about 20 miles on the broken axle) but locker still works and everything is good almost 2 years later.
I keep a cut off wheel in the truck now. If it happens again I'll pull the axle on th trail and cut the axle off close as I can to the bearing. I think I could drive from Moab back tp Ga like that if I had to.
I hate that these trucks aren’t full floater
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bloc
SILVER Star
Meaning the wheel bearing or the diff bearing?If it happens again I'll pull the axle on th trail and cut the axle off close as I can to the bearing. I think I could drive from Moab back tp Ga like that if I had to.
I hate that these trucks aren’t full floater
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Wheel bearing. That way you don’t have 3 feet of axle flopping around and putting leverage on the wheel bearing.
Pulling the axke takes about 10 minutes in the field so it’s not too bad to do in a pinch.
bloc
SILVER Star
I actually had in my head that the splined end of the axle needed to be in the diff to stabilize the wheel bearing.. that these bearings are different than the front.. the races are closer together really increasing the leverage of the tire over them, and that Toyota may have depended on the axle resting in the diff to keep things stable. Basically, that these axle bearings really aren’t designed to be used in a full-float manner.
Pure speculation on my part.
I also thought there was a ring within the housing that roughly locates the axle going into the diff, and that might reduce flopping. But it would be metal on metal and not a good candidate to drive halfway across the country..
I agree with what @bloc said about the bearing requiring the support from the shaft engagement into the diff - it's not like a unit bearing on the front (unit bearings have 2 bearings and are designed for those forces).Nope. Pulled the 3rd and flushed everything as good as could be done. There were a few marks from the axle flopping around (I ended up having to drive about 20 miles on the broken axle) but locker still works and everything is good almost 2 years later.
I keep a cut off wheel in the truck now. If it happens again I'll pull the axle on th trail and cut the axle off close as I can to the bearing. I think I could drive from Moab back tp Ga like that if I had to.
I hate that these trucks aren’t full floater
Edited to remove incorrect info - the rear bearing assy does contain 2 ball bearings as shown here: Rear axle bearing postmortem - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-axle-bearing-postmortem.1245734/
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Most definitely. The axle is meant to be in the carrier to stabilize the bearing. This is just an emergency fix.
The bearing is stout. It’s not something I would want to do unless I had too. But I would feel comfortable driving a few hundred hwy miles on it. Bearing has to replaced anyway. If I started feeling wild vibes I would know it’s time to pull over.
I can tell you breaking a rear on the trail 2k miles from home is close to being the ultimate bummer. There’s just no trail repair for that unless you carry 2 spare axles built with bearings ready to go in.
I ended up having to send the truck to Cruiser Outfitters from Moab via flatbed, and fly home and back while all this was getting sorted. Not a fun time.
