A 200 is meant to have 37’s (1 Viewer)

[MTKID]

I’d buy your kit.

I’ve got some self-clinching flush head studs on their way now, so…

something will happen. I think I’ll have enough material for about 20 1” kits to start. No steering spacer yet, so if you want a 1.5” kit (which I personally really like the idea of) you may have to purchase the extension that was shared earlier.

There is some concern for that steering spacer staying locked onto the shaft, so @Rusty Hinge drilled and ran a pin through his. I’m not comfortable offering to do that type of drilling for other people, although I’m fine doing it on my own vehicle.

I hope this doesn’t discourage people from considering a 1.5” BL, because I’m happy to provide the 1.5” blocks and radiator drop brackets.

If anyone has any other ideas for a rock solid steering solution, I’m all ears.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I’ve got some self-clinching flush head studs on their way too now, so…

something will happen. I think I’ll have enough material for about 20 1” kits to start. No steering spacer yet, so if you want a 1.5” kit (which I personally really like the idea of) you may have to purchase the extension that was shared earlier.

There is some concern for that steering spacer staying locked onto the shaft, so @Rusty Hinge drilled and ran a pin through his. I’m not comfortable offering to do that type of drilling for other people, although I’m fine doing it on my own vehicle.

I hope this doesn’t discourage people from considering a 1.5” BL, because I’m happy to provide the 1.5” blocks and radiator drop brackets.

If anyone has any other ideas for a rock solid steering solution, I’m all ears.

This one has the machined flat for the factory bolt and then another bolt to tighten it up. I think it would be safe?

 

[MTKID]

This one has the machined flat for the factory bolt and then another bolt to tighten it up. I think it would be safe?

View attachment 3571007

Hopefully @Rusty Hinge chimes in, but I will share his comment that “the shaft extension itself will not close and does not interface with the steering shaft the same as OEM.” He almost had the shaft slip out of the extension, as I understand it.

This was his solution…

 

[Rusty Hinge]

Hopefully @Rusty Hinge chimes in, but I will share his comment that “the shaft extension itself will not close and does not interface with the steering shaft the same as OEM.” He almost had the shaft slip out of the extension, as I understand it.

This was his solution…
View attachment 3571069

Nice work on the mention Tiny.

I found that piece to have a less than confidence inspiring fit to the OEM upper steering shaft. I did end up tossing the part in the drill press and using a roll pin to secure it fully.

I am a firm believer that there should as close to a 0% chance of failure with safety items. Steer, stop and start.

After a bit of partying on the Arizona backroads with the LX, I surely did notice that the yoke slipped out of the coupler and *nearly* made a great time turn into a rather unruly sideways situation.

After limping it back to Texas and noticing it’s movement even on the less than smooth I-10 freeway pit stops, my solution was a roll pin that went nearly all the way through.

Please practice your attention to detail on items like this. I may only have a dog at risk with my adventures but if you have family, do it for them. Take the time to do this with patience and use my unfavorable experience as an avoidable lesson.

I have since tested this, no degradation, full movement, better steering feel, and it has been as close to OEM as possible with my limited brain capacity.

Happy to help with anything.

 

[Heckraiser]

I’ve got some self-clinching flush head studs on their way now, so…

something will happen. I think I’ll have enough material for about 20 1” kits to start. No steering spacer yet, so if you want a 1.5” kit (which I personally really like the idea of) you may have to purchase the extension that was shared earlier.

There is some concern for that steering spacer staying locked onto the shaft, so @Rusty Hinge drilled and ran a pin through his. I’m not comfortable offering to do that type of drilling for other people, although I’m fine doing it on my own vehicle.

I hope this doesn’t discourage people from considering a 1.5” BL, because I’m happy to provide the 1.5” blocks and radiator drop brackets.

If anyone has any other ideas for a rock solid steering solution, I’m all ears.

In for the 1" kit if no steering mods required

 

[dubyahard]

In for the 1" kit if no steering mods required

Same...

 

[nwfl4runner]

Then you’ll be in - running 1” and no steering or brake line mods required. Drop radiator and trim factor rear bumper skin is all

 

[teejnut]

What's the ideal gear ratio for 37s? For a 2013 LX, so 6-speed.

 

[linuxgod]

What's the ideal gear ratio for 37s? For a 2013 LX, so 6-speed.

For a built truck with craptacular aero definitely 4.88.

For an otherwise stock truck, check Teckis300’s definitely gearing post table

 

[dubyahard]

Then you’ll be in - running 1” and no steering or brake line mods required. Drop radiator and trim factor rear bumper skin is all

So maybe there should be some chart made to reflect what is needed for each level of BL like the below example (which is not at all correct and will delete if someone knows enough to make a more accurate list).

BL height	Minimum	In between	Extreme
0.5"	Body mount chop, .5" pucks, radiator brackets...	Basic plus bumpstops and trim rear bumper	Delete KDSS, more stuff
1.0"	Above plus something else.
1.5"	Above plus steering ext.

 

[MTKID]

So maybe there should be some chart made to reflect what is needed for each level of BL like the below example (which is not at all correct and will delete if someone knows enough to make a more accurate list).

BL height	Minimum	In between	Extreme
0.5"	Body mount chop, .5" pucks, radiator brackets...	Basic plus bumpstops and trim rear bumper	Delete KDSS, more stuff
1.0"	Above plus something else.
1.5"	Above plus steering ext.

.5”? Don’t be giving anyone any ideas about .5”. Next thing you know someone will ask for .25”

1” should be a good starting point for anyone to consider 37’s, but 1.5” is best, imo. .75” maybe if someone is just trying to give themselves a little extra for an aggressive 35” tire.

I was only planning on offering 1” to start and 1.5” sometime after that.

If you’re starting a build, don’t take baby steps with the body lift. Do it once and build the protection around that height.

(And your chart should say “Highly Motivated” for the last column)

 

[MTKID]

For a built truck with craptacular aero definitely 4.88.

For an otherwise stock truck, check Teckis300’s definitely gearing post table

I feel 4.88 is appropriate for any vehicle with the 6-speed on 37’s. Even without heavy armor.

 

[Rusty Hinge]

Woah @MTKID, I just got caught up on this thread with the last few pages. You weren’t lying about the interest to get a kit together.

 

[ga12r1]

I feel 4.88 is appropriate for any vehicle with the 6-speed on 37’s. Even without heavy armor.

I run a 4.88 6 speed and definitely would like lower gears. She's a little too fast in the technical stuff in 1st lo and I can't maintain 75(gps) on the interstate without the TC constantly locking and unlocking unless I'm in 4th. I have to set cruise at 60 (close to 70gps) indicated on HWY to keep TC locked in 5th or 6th. That makes for a fabulous ride from south Georgia to Colorado or Utah. The 4.88s were perfect with 33s (for me) and ok with 35s.
Thats really the only issue I have with my build. It sucks

 

[grinchy]

I run a 4.88 6 speed and definitely would like lower gears. She's a little too fast in the technical stuff in 1st lo and I can't maintain 75(gps) on the interstate without the TC constantly locking and unlocking unless I'm in 4th. I have to set cruise at 60 (close to 70gps) indicated on HWY to keep TC locked in 5th or 6th. That makes for a fabulous ride from south Georgia to Colorado or Utah. The 4.88s were perfect with 33s (for me) and ok with 35s.
Thats really the only issue I have with my build. It sucks

Am I reading this as you would like 5.19 (or whatever the next stop is ABOVE) 4.88 on the 37s?

 

[ga12r1]

Am I reading this as you would like 5.19 (or whatever the next stop is ABOVE) 4.88 on the 37s?

That is correct. A deeper gear. I wish it was possible to do a transfer case reduction, both high and lo. That would be ideal.
The juice would not be worth the squeeze from a 4.88 to 5.19 or 5.29 IMO.

 

[MTKID]

That is correct. A deeper gear. I wish it was possible to do a transfer case reduction, both high and lo. That would be ideal.
The juice would not be worth the squeeze from a 4.88 to 5.19 or 5.29 IMO.

Do 5.19 or 5.29 gears exist for our platform?

 

[ga12r1]

Do 5.19 or 5.29 gears exist for our platform?

Good question/ I’ve never researched it since I went 4.88 years ago and wouldn’t change now unless I somehow blew the front and rear
I know 5.29 exist for the front because of tundra. But unsure of rear for us.
@cruiseroutfit would be sure to know.

 

[tbisaacs]

Who’s gonna be the first to swap to a tundra 10.5” R&P and 5.29s?

 

[ga12r1]

Who’s gonna be the first to swap to a tundra 10.5” R&P and 5.29s?

That would be nice. Especially if the axles were beefier but I don’t think they are.
I’ve already broken one rear axle and feel like it’s just a matter of time before it happens again.