It's a no-brainer for LX guys. There's no driver-side front KDSS arm to contend with. I saw an LC200 on 37s on a FB page. After an inordinate amount of harassment, I was only able to get a bit of information from the reluctant owner. Full tundra front end including the swaybar, which meant he deleted KDSS and also a complete delete of the swaybar in the rear.
A 200 is meant to have 37’s
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YellowJacket
SILVER Star
The issue is that it seems so rare, I can’t find anyone who does it, especially locally. I can’t even get a quote. But when I do get lucky enough to get a quote, I am sure it’s more than I can afford right now. I would hope and assume a body lift would be more affordable. I also have to imagine that it’s going to mess up all my lines. For example, heading into my aftermarket bumpers.
I should add that although I don’t rub right now with my 315s, I do technically rub on full stuff in the rear.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
I get it, it does makes sense. A body lift would eliminate the concern with rubbing at the 12 o'clock position and the need to mess with the bump stops when fitting a larger tire, but it's not as simple as doing a BL and you're good to go.
I believe to fit a true to size 37" tire from my experience one would need 1 or 2 things a body lift won't address:
1. more extreme chop of the body mount (may need a relocate)
2. more ideal alignment with 3.5*+ of caster to push it further from the body mount.
3. more suspension lift than just a sensor lift for more BM clearance. (this will help in some and not in other situations)
4. Upgrade bumps
My current 37" KO2's fit with 2.5* caster, a sensor lift, 4 upgraded bump stops, rear mud flaps intact, and occasional kisses to the sway bar at full lock. I know they are closer to a real 36" tire.
I've thought about trying out 39" KO2's and it's obviously an even more slippery slope. One of my cam bolts in my LCA in seized so while I can get 3.9* caster on one side, I can't on the other without spending about $1k for new LCA and all. Things to consider and address before anyone takes the plunge and ends up having to spend way more money or time to get it to work.
Also I know quite a few are re-geared, but be ready for a much slower top end. When I went from my 315/70 65.5lbs to the 37x12.50 64.8lbs I didn't notice at all on the bottom end with my 8 speed, but man did it suck the power on the top end. Here is a couple pics of over a year ago when someone hit me and I had a free shot to cut the other QP and bumper to see what it looked like with the free high clearance look.
I believe to fit a true to size 37" tire from my experience one would need 1 or 2 things a body lift won't address:
1. more extreme chop of the body mount (may need a relocate)
2. more ideal alignment with 3.5*+ of caster to push it further from the body mount.
3. more suspension lift than just a sensor lift for more BM clearance. (this will help in some and not in other situations)
4. Upgrade bumps
My current 37" KO2's fit with 2.5* caster, a sensor lift, 4 upgraded bump stops, rear mud flaps intact, and occasional kisses to the sway bar at full lock. I know they are closer to a real 36" tire.
I've thought about trying out 39" KO2's and it's obviously an even more slippery slope. One of my cam bolts in my LCA in seized so while I can get 3.9* caster on one side, I can't on the other without spending about $1k for new LCA and all. Things to consider and address before anyone takes the plunge and ends up having to spend way more money or time to get it to work.
Also I know quite a few are re-geared, but be ready for a much slower top end. When I went from my 315/70 65.5lbs to the 37x12.50 64.8lbs I didn't notice at all on the bottom end with my 8 speed, but man did it suck the power on the top end. Here is a couple pics of over a year ago when someone hit me and I had a free shot to cut the other QP and bumper to see what it looked like with the free high clearance look.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Why someone would remove the rear sway is beyond me. LC rears already flex really well. If anything that would inhibit the front from flexing. Personally I'd much rather remove the front and upgrade to a HD rear bar if I were trying to improve off-road ability.
KDSS.. you would have to add an aftermarket rear sway bar...
I'm sure there is one for the Non-KDSS 200 series out there, but it would most likely need to be sourced from AUS.
most trucks in my experience are fine with just a front sway bar (in this case tundra if you go that way).
Of course they will not drive like stock no matter what.
I'm sure there is one for the Non-KDSS 200 series out there, but it would most likely need to be sourced from AUS.
most trucks in my experience are fine with just a front sway bar (in this case tundra if you go that way).
Of course they will not drive like stock no matter what.
not sure how that would work since the links are inbound of the axle as opposed to the lx570 swaybar link mounts
Dobinsons makes non KDSS sway bars. Mounts same way as the LX. Both axles have the provisions to mount the sway bar.
adventuremotorsusa.com
Dobinsons Rear Sway Bar For Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series (NON KDSS) (SB59-1929)
Suits 200 Series Land Cruiser (NON KDSS ONLY) Increased rate for better sway controll on loaded vehicles. Includes Sway Bar with replacement bushings -- Dobinsons Front Sway Bar Packages are the perfect addition to a 4WD.The resistance to the fitment of bigger front Sway Bars to 4WD vehicles is...
of course it'll fit non kdss land cruisers....they share the same axle housing as US lx570Dobinsons makes non KDSS sway bars. Mounts same way as the LX. Both axles have the provisions to mount the sway bar.
Dobinsons Rear Sway Bar For Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series (NON KDSS) (SB59-1929)
Suits 200 Series Land Cruiser (NON KDSS ONLY) Increased rate for better sway controll on loaded vehicles. Includes Sway Bar with replacement bushings -- Dobinsons Front Sway Bar Packages are the perfect addition to a 4WD.The resistance to the fitment of bigger front Sway Bars to 4WD vehicles is...
Yea my mistake. I had it backwards. LX can run non KDSS swaybars because LX and non KDSS have same axle housing.
There is one spot about an inch square where the rears will run fully compressed
Rolling fenders is really pretty easy, the real hurdle here is probably gonna be getting a fender rolling tool to actually reach from the hub to the fender. I have a couple ideas on how to make it work, but my LX is gone until about Tuesday.
Bit of before and after of a roll and pull I did on my E36:
Great question and a really good thought experiment to do to establish goals before applying said mod. For me, I'm looking for #2 and #4. I don't want my rig taller than necessary as sidehill stability is as important to me as clearance. I'm leaning towards a 1" body lift, but I'm also trying to sort out in my mind if 3/4" is enough, because I want to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. 37s will improve approach/breakover/departure not only from the added height, but from the tire faces pushed closer to the front and back of the axle centerlines, which itself improves angles.
I'm looking to setup my AHC more so that normal height is where I keep it 90% of the time, with better traction and sidehill stability, only tapping into high when I absolutely need clearance.
Funny enough, I broke my rear sway bar end link a couple days ago wheeling over some deep moguls. My bad as when extending my AHC shocks for 1" more droop travel, I only spaced down my rear sway bar end links by 3/16". Not enough.
To your point, without rear sways, the rear is overly flexy, and doing most of the articulation. The front gets lazy and doesn't do its part! What I'm also looking to do is a custom front sway frame bracket to reduce front sway spring rate by 20%. That would make me happy.
I’d like to get some ideas on the radiator drop bracket. I have something pictured in my mind, machined in one piece from aluminum, and using additional nuts and bolts to the body, but there’s a lot smarter people on here than me.
Here is @nwfl4runner ‘s simple solution…
Is there any reason to do this any differently? I was picturing an aluminum block machined down to have the post threads already on it, then the nut and bolt still being used, but I often overcomplicate things.
I have some bulk UHMW round stock getting machined down this week to start some testing with just 3/4” blocks. Then we’ll cut some 1” next week.
Just trying to keep things simple and help get some more people a little more clearance to have fun with a tire size they might not have previously. Admittedly, us LX guys will have it easier w/o KDSS. I don’t plan to have any solution to alleviate that possible interference (edit: maybe there is a simple swaybar solution we could also provide. Feel free to give input on that)
Here is @nwfl4runner ‘s simple solution…
Is there any reason to do this any differently? I was picturing an aluminum block machined down to have the post threads already on it, then the nut and bolt still being used, but I often overcomplicate things.
I have some bulk UHMW round stock getting machined down this week to start some testing with just 3/4” blocks. Then we’ll cut some 1” next week.
Just trying to keep things simple and help get some more people a little more clearance to have fun with a tire size they might not have previously. Admittedly, us LX guys will have it easier w/o KDSS. I don’t plan to have any solution to alleviate that possible interference (edit: maybe there is a simple swaybar solution we could also provide. Feel free to give input on that)
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Trying to put together a solid list of parts for 37s and didn’t have a BL on there. Why the BL? Or just for aesthetics?
For an LX parts list seems to be:
BMC
UCAs: to move the front wheels forward
Westcott Designs front Spacer kit
Bump stops front and rear
Rear shock mount drop: Turbo8
Extended brake lines
Trimming of front bumper
Trimming of rear bumper and lower wheel well
Rolling of fenders
For an LX parts list seems to be:
BMC
UCAs: to move the front wheels forward
Westcott Designs front Spacer kit
Bump stops front and rear
Rear shock mount drop: Turbo8
Extended brake lines
Trimming of front bumper
Trimming of rear bumper and lower wheel well
Rolling of fenders
Well, a BL hasn’t ever been for aesthetics for me.
You have a nice long list of parts and processes that can help fit 37’s, but at least one person has done a 1.5” body lift and body mount chop and were able to start running 37’s. A body lift simply allows an easier fit of taller tires, at least on an LX. It meant a little less trimming for me. A LC still has to contend with the front KDSS.
Personally, I started with a body lift, body mount chop, and fender trimming/bumper trimming (additional inner fender “massaging”), and finally good offset wheels to put the tire where it tucked well, to get onto 37’s. This seemed like the easiest way to me, but I was also happy to trim my fenders.
This is more a list of parts you can buy for an LX rather than a recipe for 37s. You are sort of mixing the Long travel AHC thread and the running 37's threads together.
BMC - Needed for 37s
UCAs: to move the front wheels forward - This is for suspension lift, not necessarily adding 37s
Westcott Designs front Spacer kit - For some combination of lift/maintaining spring rate/longer travel depending on which parts you use.
Bump stops front and rear - Bump stops could be useful, but depending on the amount of body lift, maybe not necessary. Will reduce uptravel.
Rear shock mount drop: Turbo8 - This is to extend travel of rear axle.
Extended brake lines - Only needed if extending travel.
Trimming of front bumper - Really just the liner needs to be dealt with.
Trimming of rear bumper and lower wheel well - Same as above
Rolling of fenders - Might need this depending on wheel offset and tire width.
Starting with MTKIDs recipe and then adding these other parts for more travel is probably the best path for success on an LX.
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YES
Yes it's very possible to roll the fenders for more clearance on low offset wheel. Doesn't provide much more upward clearance if the tire sidewalls fit.
Couple challenges.
The front is very possible to roll. The rears are thick double stacked sheet metal so take a lot more force to roll. Possibly need to cut if rolling beyond the pinch weld.
The rolling tools also don't generally have the extension necessary for how much travel we have. AHC helps to lower to axle to the body. Or just lift that corner. Or custom mod the rolling tool.
More detail here
DIY Fender Rolling
Hopefully this helps the next guy either fitting big tires or those with aggressive offsets. The 200-series has some pretty beefy fender lips so I'll start by saying what's here will buy limited more clearance. Real clearance may require cutting the fender lip or getting more aggressive. I'm...
forum.ih8mud.com
