99 miles to the new sty!

[scrapdaddy]

License Plate Light - OEM - FJ55 1969-1972

OEM Toyota - Fits FJ55 - 3/1969 - 9/1972 Dress up that Pig with a brand new Toyota - made license plate light.

cruisercorps.com

Cruiser Corps is out right now, restocking soon.

 

[Tomba]

+ Toyotapartsdeal.com online....

was hoping for just the gasket. part discontinued. looks like I'll need the whole unit

 

[Tomba]

yaba daba doo....rebuilding the carb and I am starting to piece it all back together. Thanks for the motivation btw.! Got the right kit after 2 tries. apperently, the stamp on the carb is not the bible for carb IDing. As it turns out, mine is from the yerar the car was manuf even tho the stamp indicates its a 1976 (6 H 30 stamp). I was abl to correctly ID it from the pictures on the SOR site.

So, the kit I recieved from Cruiserteq is the correct(71-73 fj55) kit but, it came with slightly different jet sizes than what I found in the carb.

what I found in the carb ------- kit came with

primary main 118 -------- 114
Secondary main 180 ------- 180
power valve jet 60 ------- 60
SLow jet primary 50 ------- 50
slow jet secondary 80 ------- 50

will these slight differences matter? Ive seen another thread from a decade ago that has these same sizes(found in the kit) were used and worked great but the thread was regarding driving at altitude. I am sea level. Any thoughts on this?? running slightly leaner

 

[PabloCruise]

Not sure! You could rebuild with what was in there and take it to an emissions test place where they could tell you if you were rich or lean?

Or read up on those jet sizes for sea level?

Maybe call Mark A and see if he would share his secrets for when he rebuilds...

 

[Blastservices]

The proper jet sizes are in the manual and is pretty self explanatory once it’s in your hands. Also, SOR offers new jets if any of yours are not in the right range.

 

[PabloCruise]

The proper jet sizes are in the manual and is pretty self explanatory once it’s in your hands. Also, SOR offers new jets if any of yours are not in the right range.

Darn - RTFM! Amazing how many times I don't think of that...

 

[Pigeaten]

Always my last choice

 

[Blastservices]

The factory manual even lists high altitude options as well!
SOR has just been around longer than most and their site is a pretty decent reference starting point and it also at least gives you the idea of cost if they aren’t your first choice for new parts.

 

[Tomba]

Thanks for the feedback. Just a bit impatient as I am waiting for the manual to be delivered and have some free time. THought I could get the info here w/o having to wait. 😏

 

[Tomba]

So the chart I found on SOR does in fact say 118 for the primary and 180 for the secondary main jets. I noticed that the plug cover Nut has a spare 114 and another that I cant make out the number on. The origninal power jet is a 70 and the kit came with a 60. I am chomping to get this done

 

[Tomba]

Spoke w SOR and they seemed clueless on where to find the correct jet sizes. Had better luck doing a search on the interwebs. Still hoping to confirm that the correct power valve jet is a 70. sounds like I'll have to wait for the .... manual

 

[Tomba]

Is there a trick to getting this accelerator pump retailer clip in? I am using hemostats but having a tough time. maddening... after trying for over an hour I got the clip in but it dosent hold the fing ball in place did that twice and still not holding the ball in. i think the clip must have a piece thats broken off.

I think

 

[deliverance]

Is there a trick to getting this accelerator pump retailer clip in? I am using hemostats but having a tough time. maddening... after trying for over an hour I got the clip in but it dosent hold the fing ball in place did that twice and still not holding the ball in. i think the clip must have a piece thats broken off.

View attachment 3215240

View attachment 3215378
I think

The clip looks to be missing the center portion that makes it look more like the letter “e.”

 

[Tomba]

Ok, the good /bad: I found a new retainer clip that was still in stoock at a local toyota dealer! Putting it all back together now and like a dingdong I decided to replace the gasket for the sight glass and broke the glass while tightening the screws back on . Does anyone know where I can finda used sight glass? its a 72 Aisan carb.

Thanks in advance-

 

[Tomba]

I’ll trade I have one in Sacto

Hey , still intereted in trading hoods??

 

[Tomba]

updates: Welp, I managed to wrestle the gas tank back in after having it cleaned and sprayed with bedliner. Also grabbed some new bolts to secure the tank as the originals were rusted. Rebuilt the Carburetor using a crusierteq kit.
Needed new studs for the too. bolted it on, adjusted the choke(still needs some work as its pretty sticky) fired up on the first try! She's running!
next up.... clutch cyliinder and the brakes....Thanks for all the advice fellas .

 

[Tomba]

I have a dome light...but I am going to play around and see if I can 3D print a new switch for it. Then I was going to put it up for sale. I will let you know if I am successful.

Were you ever able to print a switch ?? Bueller???

 

[Tomba]

progress: clutch master, clutch slave installed and goes into all thes gears.

Next up ...... brakes!

Question: looks like the resivors and lines are seperate systems for the front / rear. There are obvious leaks in the front wheel cylinders.
If the front wheel MS resivor looks like its been empty and dry but intact /no signs of leaking, can I get away with just replacong the wheel cylinders, clips, springs and pads if needed or since the resivor has been dry and potentially exposed to moissture should I replace the master as well?

Thanks in advance!

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Maybe... if the reservoir is dry, then the seals in the MS are probably dry. They could have shrunk or cracked and will need to be replaced... which means a rebuild or replacing the MS.

You are correct... the resivors and lines are seperate systems for the front / rear.

I would recommend replacing of rebuilding the wheel cylinders, put new pads, springs etc. Fill up to MS reservoir and bleed the breaks. It may work for you. If not… order a new MS and you should be good to go.

I would recommend flushing the old brake fluid out of the old lines while you are in the bleeding the breaks.

 

[Tomba]

Thanks. @DirtDauberGarage
I was thinking of taking that approach. these brake parts seem to be available at a number of different sites, even Napa auto. Is there any reason why I would want to use one brand , site or store vs another ? I get OEM is usually the way to go.