99 miles to the new sty! (4 Viewers)

[Tomba]

Iam not a expert but sounds good, looks like it was the exhaust that had the Leak , but I think yes have it surfaced, I try not to separate intake and exhaust if I can, I am not sure of the process for surfacing good luck

Looks pretty flat to me and nothing a fresh gasket wouldn't fix. But yeah, might have re-surfaced anyway. I Like I said, I think I may have tightened the vertical bolts that hold the manifolds together before the head bolts... Oops

 

[knuckle47]

The Remflex gasket is supposed to accommodate a bit more of an irregular surface but I’m also thinking a fly cut, like on heads, insures a good surface. I bought the Remflex gasket for when I was going to do my Sniper EFI but my engine had been rebuilt only a few thousand miles ago so I never did get to try it. On the other hand, I have heard nothing but good things about it

 

[Tomba]

The Remflex gasket is supposed to accommodate a bit more of an irregular surface but I’m also thinking a fly cut, like on heads, insures a good surface. I bought the Remflex gasket for when I was going to do my Sniper EFI but my engine had been rebuilt only a few thousand miles ago so I never did get to try it. On the other hand, I have heard nothing but good things about it

Thanks. So I can assume any machine shop would know what a fly cut is? I wouldn't say that my manifold is highly irregular. Re gaskets, yes I've read decent reviews on them too but I am going to use an OEM Toyota gasket.

 

[knuckle47]

I would believe they do…. Is it possible there may be different “jargon” regarding g the process in different parts of the country? Maybe , but youre looking to remove very little material from the surface in order to create the best mating against the head….which of course needs to be equally clean

 

[Tomba]

Thinking about this I should probably change the gasket that is between the manifolds too even though there's only 500 miles on it ...

 

[bobm]

Buy a header and new gasket and get rid of Boat ️ anchor

 

[Tomba]

Buy a header and new gasket and get rid of Boat ️ anchor

I have considered a header instead of the but, I was hoping to keep as stock as possible. I thought the heat valve on the exhaust if frozen (in the open position)

is ok to use. Any idea if this is the case?

 

[RUSH55]

Is it blocking exhaust from exiting the outlet in any way? I think when it’s open it’s allowing exhaust gas to flow up to the bottom of the intake manifold and warm it (which also can cause cracking of the intake manifold).
It should be able to run fine with that valve open, but maybe check for a crack in the intake manifold.

 

[Tomba]

Is it blocking exhaust from exiting the outlet in any way? I think when it’s open it’s allowing exhaust gas to flow up to the bottom of the intake manifold and warm it (which also can cause cracking of the intake manifold).
It should be able to run fine with that valve open, but maybe check for a crack in the intake manifold.

After reading a few threads about using a block off plate (for 2f) I did take a look and didn't see any signs of any cracks but, is there a specific spot where this typically happens that I should pay close attn. too?

 

[RUSH55]

After reading a few treads about using a block off plate (for 2f) I did take a look ad didn't see any signs of a crack but is there a specific spot where this typically happens that I should pay close attn. too?

Yeah, right through that opening to the underside of the intake manifold. It’s one of the reasons lots of people have switched to the header.

 

[Pighead]

my exhaust manifold cracked back in 1989 or so, I've been running headers for a while. Tried a Remflex gasket once, it seemed thin and recommended a light torque for the manifold nuts. Did not work for me. I have had luck using two Fel-Pro gaskets stacked. After some recent head work and manifold/header matching, I get by with one fel-pro gasket. I also had the holes for the manifold studs drilled and tapped for the larger 2F size, they take a higher torque without breaking. I routinely snug up those nuts to a slightly higher torque than FSM calls for.
The block-off plate is a good thing. You don't mind the hot exhaust gases hitting the bottom of the intake manifold for a few minutes during a cold start, but not for a long drive.

 

[Tomba]

my exhaust manifold cracked back in 1989 or so, I've been running headers for a while. Tried a Remflex gasket once, it seemed thin and recommended a light torque for the manifold nuts. Did not work for me. I have had luck using two Fel-Pro gaskets stacked. After some recent head work and manifold/header matching, I get by with one fel-pro gasket. I also had the holes for the manifold studs drilled and tapped for the larger 2F size, they take a higher torque without breaking. I routinely snug up those nuts to a slightly higher torque than FSM calls for.
The block-off plate is a good thing. You don't mind the hot exhaust gases hitting the bottom of the intake manifold for a few minutes during a cold start, but not for a long drive.

Hasen't cracked so far and it's got 83k on it. That said, not sure if its been replaced either.. I need to be sure to retighten every so often too..

 

[Tomba]

Question on the manifold re-surface. Machine shop said to tighten it back on the head w the vertical bolts loose then retighten the 3 vertical bolts once its secured to the head. maybe 15lbs or so. Then, bring it in to re-surface. my question: Once its re surfaced flat and bolted together properly should I just bolt it on or go through that same process again with loosening the vertical bolts first then torgueing it back on ?

 

[knuckle47]

While this may be a technique, I never did it this way but know that my last foray with manifolds was over 25 years ago and things change..I would check the factory service manual and follow those guidelines they would be the most recommended

 

[Tomba]

While this may be a technique, I never did it this way but know that my last foray with manifolds was over 25 years ago and things change..I would check the factory service manual and follow those guidelines they would be the most recommended

I looked in the FSM first and there isn't much detail on this part of the installation unfortunately

 

[Pighead]

Question on the manifold re-surface. Machine shop said to tighten it back on the head w the vertical bolts loose then retighten the 3 vertical bolts once its secured to the head. maybe 15lbs or so. Then, bring it in to re-surface. my question: Once its re surfaced flat and bolted together properly should I just bolt it on or go through that same process again with loosening the vertical bolts first then torgueing it back on ?

I would loosen the vertical bolts just a bit.

 

[Tomba]

I would loosen the vertical bolts just a bit.

makes sense.

 

[PabloCruise]

But did they have good donuts?

Jelly filled!

 

[PabloCruise]

Round 2 fuel pump rebuild. Simple but somehow I didn't connect the baffle stem correctly, not getting any fuel. Removed the pump again and hoping my reassembly is correct this time. To be continued.View attachment 3750815View attachment 3750816

Good luck!
I tried to rebuild my mechanical pump in my 40 and could not get it to seal after that. It always smelled like gas until I replaced the pump.

 

[PabloCruise]

I was pretty excited to just drive it for a bit before the next lil project. From cold start it idles perfectly at low RPMs but I let it warm up &
check it again when temp gauge shows warm w/choke off and idles great close to 700rpms and close to 20 in.hg then, as soon as its warm and I hit the throttle it all goes to s*&^. wont idle, low vac , runs rough. engine dies w/o throttle or choke partially on.
No signs of vac leak. fuel in the sight glass(even after letting it dies then checking it). 2 new filters, new plugs. valves adjusted
, fuel pump has been rebuilt, tank cleaned etc. Erratic idling so thinking it could be plug wires, vac leak, fuel related.. after restart and revving the motor it does idle but at a much lower RPM. fing driving me crazy.

I feel for you Brother, that sounds maddening.