Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (21 Viewers)

[McDowra]

The GM 6 speeds are garbage. If one hasn’t failed it’s because it’s just about to fail. I will admit a big part of them sucking is because of the way DoD works.

4l60s are fine. There are millions and millions of them out there being abused. With very basic mods (that don’t require rebuild) and a decent cooler they hold up fine. Don’t tow with it in overdrive.

What I’m getting at is I would not put a used 6speed in anything.

Actually I'm gonna disagree, the trans are fine it is the programming that causes the problem which is usually torque convertor failure. If you get a good tuner that problem can be easily solved.

 

[NeverFinis]

That reminds me, I need to tune my 6L90. Remove torque converter lockup in gears 1- 4, and move shift points a little higher. Keep lockup in 5 and 6th gear.

 

[mehbohdi]

All I will say is if you think you can do it for $5000 great, but be prepared to spend $10,000. Your wallet never survives first contact/opening. Good luck and have fun.

 

[McDowra]

All I will say is if you think you can do it for $5000 great, but be prepared to spend $10,000. Your wallet never survives first contact/opening. Good luck and have fun.

this 100% but hopefully we are wrong.

 

[Wisco80]

All I will say is if you think you can do it for $5000 great, but be prepared to spend $10,000. Your wallet never survives first contact/opening. Good luck and have fun.

I'm not too stuck on the budget, I want to do it right as this is my dream vehicle. Whatever it is that I want with this truck, I'll find a way to do it

 

[goranvolvo]

That reminds me, I need to tune my 6L90. Remove torque converter lockup in gears 1- 4, and move shift points a little higher. Keep lockup in 5 and 6th gear.

you can also use bluecat and make new shift map and then load it with hp tuners i did my shift kit ,corvette servo and bunch other stuf but never liked way it shifted , at the ind the problem was with programing , now it shifts super nice and smoth

 

[goranvolvo]

Thanks brother. From my limited research it seems a custom exhaust should run me $1.5-2k. I do want to get a welder and learn, but I feel that I wouldn't do a very good job on the exhaust and I want it to last lol.

I don't mind going over 5k, especially if I buy a custom harness. My priority is to do it right, and that includes replacing as much maintenance stuff that I can all at once.

where are you located ? i m in Milwaukee if you want you can stop by and you can see how to do the swap

 

[TLC94LS]

Hey all been driving the truck around town all winter and no issues. She runs and drives. Did some mild trail riding last fall. Been trying to get ready for some spring camping soon. I’ve got an issue that’s eating at me. When I’m driving and the drivetrain is under load no issues. If I lift off the gas or coast downhill a bit. I get a what sounds like a groaning and gears kinda floating like backlash. It’s most noticeable on the 4Hi/Lo shifter. So I’m wondering if the shaft extension from the trans to center diff has play, the center diff itself needs repair? Or if it don’t matter and keep driving it.

I did open my center diff and I changed the output bearings at front and rear. Bearings inside I left alone. They looked fine. I need to crack the drain plug on center diff and front diff to see if something is in the oil. Any ideas??

 

[Heckraiser]

my guess would be wear/play in the slip yoke at the rear driveshaft. Pretty common once they get up there in age. Try pumping some grease into the slip yoke and see if it quiets down (don't over-fill, more problems). If that's the culprit, a new driveshaft is probably in your future.

 

[NeverFinis]

Hey all been driving the truck around town all winter and no issues. She runs and drives. Did some mild trail riding last fall. Been trying to get ready for some spring camping soon. I’ve got an issue that’s eating at me. When I’m driving and the drivetrain is under load no issues. If I lift off the gas or coast downhill a bit. I get a what sounds like a groaning and gears kinda floating like backlash. It’s most noticeable on the 4Hi/Lo shifter. So I’m wondering if the shaft extension from the trans to center diff has play, the center diff itself needs repair? Or if it don’t matter and keep driving it.

I did open my center diff and I changed the output bearings at front and rear. Bearings inside I left alone. They looked fine. I need to crack the drain plug on center diff and front diff to see if something is in the oil. Any ideas??

Mine is recently on the road, and I just noticed a similar drivetrain noise. I haven't paid too much attention to it to determine if it is underload or coast yet but I will now.

6.0L/6L90 and new driveshafts front and rear. Old t-case with just fresh gear oil.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Mine is recently on the road, and I just noticed a similar drivetrain noise. I haven't paid too much attention to it to determine if it is underload or coast yet but I will now.

6.0L/6L90 and new driveshafts front and rear. Old t-case with just fresh gear oil.

Did you recently lift it also?

 

[NeverFinis]

Did you recently lift it also?

I had a 2" OME lift, and now it has Dobinsons front C97-146VT and rear C97-147VT dual rate coils. Supposedly a 2.5" lift. I have added more weight: DeltaVS front and rear bumpers, winch, drawers, etc, which the OME 2" lift never had.

It is on my todo list to measure actual lift height, via DeltaVS method: Delta between Panhard Bolt on Frame to Axle

Edited to add: Measured: 2.5" and 4.0". Stock is about 1" at both locations. Netting 1.5" and 3" over stock height. More weight is expected to be added to the rear like a RTT.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I had a 2" OME lift, and now it has Dobinsons front C97-146VT and rear C97-147VT dual rate coils. Supposedly a 2.5" lift. I have added more weight: DeltaVS front and rear bumpers, winch, drawers, etc, which the OME 2" lift never had.

It is on my todo list to measure actual lift height, via DeltaVS method: Delta between Panhard Bolt on Frame to Axle

Edited to add: Measured: 2.5" and 4.0". Stock is about 1" at both locations. Netting 1.5" and 3" over stock height. More weight is expected to be added to the rear like a RTT.

Reason I ask there are many threads about gear noise after certain lift lights. My 94 is on j springs po had them installed I'm currently running metric 33 size tire I've had the noise ever since ownership installed Tom Woods DC front driveshaft didn't help but if I load the cargo area with blocks was a honey do project at the house the noise went away noise isn't an issue on throttle always at coast or coasting down hill my 80 isn't swapped. Now current customers 80 is swapped with manual transmission brand new tcase all new Tom Woods DC driveshafts no issues but also less lift not sure of lift but definitely less than mine. On mine I'm thinking driveshaft angles aren't correct or need a new rear driveshaft I just haven't gotten around to messing with it and I really don't even need the lifted springs with the tire size I'm currently running.

 

[NeverFinis]

Reason I ask there are many threads about gear noise after certain lift lights. My 94 is on j springs po had them installed I'm currently running metric 33 size tire I've had the noise ever since ownership installed Tom Woods DC front driveshaft didn't help but if I load the cargo area with blocks was a honey do project at the house the noise went away noise isn't an issue on throttle always at coast or coasting down hill my 80 isn't swapped. Now current customers 80 is swapped with manual transmission brand new tcase all new Tom Woods DC driveshafts no issues but also less lift not sure of lift but definitely less than mine. On mine I'm thinking driveshaft angles aren't correct or need a new rear driveshaft I just haven't gotten around to messing with it and I really don't even need the lifted springs with the tire size I'm currently running.

Yep, I am not too concerned about the noise until I get the truck to its final weight. That is a good point about driveshaft angles. I should check mine. I was just there measuring front castor... (4.4°)

Since I am here. Anyone hook up the speed output of the Swaptime Muscle Car module to the Toyota Speedometer? As far as I can tell, it should work, and give you the correct speed, assuming tire size and gear ratio are setup in the ECM. No modifications needed, other than maybe wiring to let the ECM know when you are in 4 Low.

 

[thatcabledude]

I had the same problem for years. (4” lift, part time) Literally tried everything to fix it. Had to have a D/C rear driveshaft made. Problem solved.

 

[White Sheep]

I had the same problem for years. (4” lift, part time) Literally tried everything to fix it. Had to have a D/C rear driveshaft made. Problem solved.

Same ^

 

[TLC94LS]

Thanks all! I greased them up. We’ll see. Good to know it’d not a serious issue. I’ll guess I’ll get it it eventually!

 

[Inukshuk]

Thought I'd make a post on how I'm doing my ECU brake signals.
The PSI Conversions harness I'm using calls for:

12V Brakes Applied - Yellow wire
12V Brakes NOT Applied - Purple wire

The first is the typical brake light/ torque converter unlock signal. You could get the second output from that with a relay.

But the Land Cruiser has a double pole stop light switch. Turns out the cruise control system need a connection to ground when the brakes are NOT applied, which opens when the brakes are applied. From the CC wiring diagram:

View attachment 2433750

The Green-Light Blue (G-L) wire into the top right of the stop switch is 12V straight from the fuse.

So if I join that to the Red wire at the top left of the stop switch, I should get what I need out of the Red-Green and Green-White wires at the bottom of the stop switch.

The Red and Green-Light Blue wires are accessible at the plug for the Cruise Control ECU under the DS dash.

The Green-White wire comes out at pin 8 of the IH1 connector at the PS firewall. Connect to the Yellow wire for the GM ECU
The Red-Green wire is accessible at the Cruise Control Actuator plug at the PS fender. Connect to the Purple wire for the GM ECU

If anyone sees anything wrong with this, light me up!

Is it any issue that since the G-L wire is always 12+, the GM ECU TCC input will always be getting 12v even when the truck is turned off? As opposed to using an ignition on 12v source.

 

[Maddjack]

Reason I ask there are many threads about gear noise after certain lift lights. My 94 is on j springs po had them installed I'm currently running metric 33 size tire I've had the noise ever since ownership installed Tom Woods DC front driveshaft didn't help but if I load the cargo area with blocks was a honey do project at the house the noise went away noise isn't an issue on throttle always at coast or coasting down hill my 80 isn't swapped. Now current customers 80 is swapped with manual transmission brand new tcase all new Tom Woods DC driveshafts no issues but also less lift not sure of lift but definitely less than mine. On mine I'm thinking driveshaft angles aren't correct or need a new rear driveshaft I just haven't gotten around to messing with it and I really don't even need the lifted springs with the tire size I'm currently running.

Swaping my 97 fzj80. What is the best shifter cable to use for the 6l80e?
Wanting to keep my stock shifter.

 

[Maddjack]

Yes, started at the cross member to position everything. The Mark's adapter kept the HF2A transfer case in the OEM position, which was attractive to me. However, I utilized a 6L80E, so it may be different for the 4L trans. The guys at Mark's were very easy to deal with and super helpful in sorting everything out on the phone.

Just jump in and getting going on it. It's the single best thing I ever did to my 80. Totally transformed the truck. It's a hoot to drive now!

PM me if you have any questions.

What cable did you use for the 6L80 shifter?