Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (16 Viewers)

[TLC94LS]

2000 @ 65 is a good safe target for electronic V8. You can gear to lower RPM a little from that, but you can lose driveability quickly with a 4 speed auto if you lug it too far. There's a big gap between 3 and 4. You want to gear so you're not hunting between 3-4 or unlocking the converter frequently.

Another consideration is you have a 4L80E which has a tall 1st gear. I've had a few GM pickups with 4L80E's and used several more in conversions. They have this uncomfortably high take off gearing, you noticeably have to lay into it to get them moving, especially towing and starting out uphill. If you go to tall with the axle gearing you can hurt the low speed takeoff performance in high range.

Perfect thank you. Ill get some better data, and see where Im at and see if its worth the cost and effort of re-gear. I was looking to ensure I wasn't too far one way or another. Didn't want to needlessly be burning a fuel, not for cost, but from a logistics stand point of not wanting to stop constantly and worrying all the time about how far to next gas station and what not. I plan on trying to really get out there and put it to use.

Right now the drivability is great. Gets up and goes, no issue going down the road etc. Engine is running fantastic, trans is smooth. So real happy with that. I was concerned about heat saturation and eng temps, but so far the electric fans are kicking butt, and rarely has it reached a threshold to even turn on the second fan, but its only been driving since Nov with very cool temps out side.

 

[RivMan]

I would look into a transfer case overdrive for high gear before I tore into the diffs.

-Rob

 

[White Stripe]

The 4l80e is going to take away more gas mileage from its mass which makes the drivetrain a bit more inefficient. If you have a good scanner you can observe live data for the transmission and observe torque converter lock up. You will lose fuel mileage if the torque converter isn't locking. It's easy to wire the transmission incorrectly so that the ecu will fail to engage lockup. Making sure your getting closed loop status, power enrichment isn't over active, nobody has messed with spark tables at highway cruise rpms incorrectly, and that you have the gm fuel level sender wired will aid fuel mileage. I don't know if a couple hundred rpms will make a big difference at cruise unless the motor is in a corvette or camaro.

 

[TLC94LS]

I didn’t do a gm fuel sender. I’m not running any emissions. Not sure it’s necessary for a gen 3. I’m only running the front pair of O2 sensors.

 

[bart0]

Gday everyone. I posted in the regular 80-series forum, but was pointed to this thread.

I have an LS3-swapped 96 GXL where the previous owner had installed himself. He did his best to use the stock auto shifter but I'm not able to shift below D (into 2 and L). As a newb to car mechanics I've spent many hours today searching the forums (V8 swapped thread in particular) and haven't found a good answer for my situation. After watching this video (starting at 2:14) from B&M to help me understand how the shift-trans linkage works, the guy talks about GM having multiple holes in the bracket attached to the transmission, and to take care to mount the cable to the 'correct' hole. For reference, the cable for my vehicle is connected to the 'middle' hole:

View attachment 3520378

Questions:

1. Using the stock Toyota shifter, is it a matter of trial and error to find the correct mounting hole on the trans bracket and correct tension/cable length to get all the shift positions?
2. If yes, is it best to get access to the shifter side of the cable through the inside, i.e., remove the console trim to access?
3. Super-newb question: will I be able to move the shifter linkage freely, like the guy does in the above video, with my vehicle turned off and sitting in my garage? Or does the fact that the car is fully operational not allow the transmission to shift through gears unencumbered?

Sorry for the newb question on a technical subject. I'm slowly learning the mechanical side of things as I go

Cheers

 

[Gerry McGerry]

I have an LS3-swapped 96 GXL where the previous owner had installed himself. He did his best to use the stock auto shifter but I'm not able to shift below D (into 2 and L).

If it's got an LS3 I'm assuming it's got a 6 speed auto (6l80). They only have PRND shifter positions. Can you confirm what trans it's running?

 

[bart0]

If it's got an LS3 I'm assuming it's got a 6 speed auto (6l80). They only have PRND shifter positions. Can you confirm what trans it's running?

Hey Gerry, it’s the 4L80E.

According to the rxmechanic website the 4L80E has: "four forward gears and one reverse gear in the following ratios: First gear:2.48, second gear:1.48, third gear:1:0, fourth gear:0:75, and reverse gear:2.07". The OEM Shifter on my vehicle only has 3 forward speeds, D, 2, L so I assume that to mate it up 'correctly' the 3rd gear (1:0) would become my L position and I wouldn't access the 4L80E's 4th gear of 0:75. Is this correct?

Thinking further, if the OEM shifter's pull ratio (?) for the installed cable differs, i.e., is larger than what 4L80E needs, the shift console inside might not physically allow the lever to go down to those lower positions. Right now I have plenty of room to move but it feels as though there's something physically blocking the OEM lever from going lower. This is where I might be able to twerk (not a typo ) the cable's lock nuts to get more movement. To do this I'd need to be able to freely move both the lever and the trans shift bracket like in the video linked above. Which is my Q3 above: will there components freely move between gears with a vehicle that is fully operational with the driveline all connected.

Another question: Does the OEM shifter itself have notches that 'click' into position, or is the shift notch feel coming from the transmission shift position? If the latter, I could in theory recreate the PRND2L decals on the EOM shift console to wherever the 4L80E notches are.

Again, please excuse my terminology, I'm not sure what are the correct words to use to describe all the bits.

 

[AcroSteve]

Got my ecu and fuse block mounted in my 60.

 

[bart0]

Ok, some more data hunting for the OEM shifter to 4L80E transmission issue. I got under the car with the wife at the controls. I shot this short video moving through P R N D and almost 2. You can see and hear something not quite right trying to move from D to 2. The cable looks like it could move a little further into the housing (the threads look smaller than the cable thickness) but it doesn't seem to want to. As far as I can tell, on the shifter linkage end there doesn't appear to be any physical restriction; the OEM shifter bracket looks like it could move further forward to pull more cable.

Here are some photos including step by step shifting through the available gears with cable measurements for reference (taken from the video linked above):

Transmission cable linkage:

Bracket close up:

OEM shifter bracket ( pulls cable as you move from P to D):

 

[bart0]

MOAR INFO!

So being new years eve with no work I got back under the car to test out a couple of extra things. Disconnected the cable from the 4L80E shift bracket thing and found:

1. the shift bracket can be manually moved through all gears (6 clicks in total, so from P to R N D 3 2 1
2. With the cable being detached, the OEM shifter moved smoothly between P and D, and was still some sort of binding preventing moving beyond D. It's not a hard stop though, it's slightly soft so no banging.

Given that I had previously visually inspected the shift lever bracket below the car and saw nothing that would be obviously rubbing/stopping movement, my current theory is that the installed cable does not have enough free length to pull for the 4L80E transmission. The cable measurements taken in the previous post show ~40mm cable pull between P and D+ (a bit beyond D before it binds). Looking at the photo on the B&M Racing webpage showing a shifter for a 4-speed GM transmission, I figured that the available cable length to pull was ~70+mm**. Could this be the culprit?

Here's how the shifter end of the cable looks when in P and then in D+:

** And here's my back-of-the-photoshop calculation method on the B&M shifter:

UPDATE: 2.5” (75mm) of “cable stroke” according to the specs

 

[White Stripe]

MOAR INFO!

So being new years eve with no work I got back under the car to test out a couple of extra things. Disconnected the cable from the 4L80E shift bracket thing and found:

1. the shift bracket can be manually moved through all gears (6 clicks in total, so from P to R N D 3 2 1
2. With the cable being detached, the OEM shifter moved smoothly between P and D, and was still some sort of binding preventing moving beyond D. It's not a hard stop though, it's slightly soft so no banging.

Given that I had previously visually inspected the shift lever bracket below the car and saw nothing that would be obviously rubbing/stopping movement, my current theory is that the installed cable does not have enough free length to pull for the 4L80E transmission. The cable measurements taken in the previous post show ~40mm cable pull between P and D+ (a bit beyond D before it binds). Looking at the photo on the B&M Racing webpage showing a shifter for a 4-speed GM transmission, I figured that the available cable length to pull was ~70+mm**. Could this be the culprit?

Here's how the shifter end of the cable looks when in P and then in D+:

View attachment 3521237

** And here's my back-of-the-photoshop calculation method on the B&M shifter:

View attachment 3521249

UPDATE: 2.5” (75mm) of “cable stroke” according to the specs

Do you have the fzj80 shifter or the fj80 shifter?

 

[NeverFinis]

MOAR INFO!

So being new years eve with no work I got back under the car to test out a couple of extra things. Disconnected the cable from the 4L80E shift bracket thing and found:

1. the shift bracket can be manually moved through all gears (6 clicks in total, so from P to R N D 3 2 1
2. With the cable being detached, the OEM shifter moved smoothly between P and D, and was still some sort of binding preventing moving beyond D. It's not a hard stop though, it's slightly soft so no banging.

Given that I had previously visually inspected the shift lever bracket below the car and saw nothing that would be obviously rubbing/stopping movement, my current theory is that the installed cable does not have enough free length to pull for the 4L80E transmission. The cable measurements taken in the previous post show ~40mm cable pull between P and D+ (a bit beyond D before it binds). Looking at the photo on the B&M Racing webpage showing a shifter for a 4-speed GM transmission, I figured that the available cable length to pull was ~70+mm**. Could this be the culprit?

Here's how the shifter end of the cable looks when in P and then in D+:

View attachment 3521237

** And here's my back-of-the-photoshop calculation method on the B&M shifter:

View attachment 3521249

UPDATE: 2.5” (75mm) of “cable stroke” according to the specs

Looks like you are using an unmodified Toyota shifter. The angle the cable attaches to the shifter and the arc the shifter makes are important.

My Post discusses this, but for a 6L80e/6L90e.

I looked at the B&M shifter and the shift cable attaches above its pivot, and not very high up. You need to know this distance as well as the angle of the cable relative to the pivot. You need to mimic this with the FZJ80 shifter.

 

[bart0]

Do you have the fzj80 shifter or the fj80 shifter?

FZJ80 shifter as far as I’m aware. I don’t think it’s been changed.

 

[bart0]

Looks like you are using an unmodified Toyota shifter. The angle the cable attaches to the shifter and the arc the shifter makes are important.

My Post discusses this, but for a 6L80e/6L90e.

I looked at the B&M shifter and the shift cable attaches above its pivot, and not very high up. You need to know this distance as well as the angle of the cable relative to the pivot. You need to mimic this with the FZJ80 shifter.

Thanks for the info. I’ve read through from your post on my phone, early on New Year’s Day, so I will take a proper look on the laptop and soak it all in later today.

But, if you weren’t worried about having the trans indents line up with the OEM shift markings in the cab, do measurements you’ve reported need to used? I think I can recreate the shifter markings to suit the 4L80E indents. So my reckoning has me thinking:

a) the total trans plate movement / total cable pull from P to L is the important measurement, in that as long as the shifter body channel in the cab is long enough to accomodate the lever’s full movement, the trans indents will fall where they may (and I can create the markings appropriately). Shortening the distance between the pivot point holes might help to line up with OEM shifter markings, but if I’m going to recreate them, maybe the OEM holes will be ok?

b) the shifter end of the cable has an eyelet so the angle relative to the shifter lever will change as it moves through the gears. Or is this connection meant to be tight and secure? You can see on my pics that the the level/cable connection is super loose (enough that I want to get in through the top and fix it) so I assumed the cable connection is meant to swivel a bit.

Thanks again for your info and response. Will have a non-groggy look later today.

 

[NeverFinis]

Thanks for the info. I’ve read through from your post on my phone, early on New Year’s Day, so I will take a proper look on the laptop and soak it all in later today.

But, if you weren’t worried about having the trans indents line up with the OEM shift markings in the cab, do measurements you’ve reported need to used? I think I can recreate the shifter markings to suit the 4L80E indents. So my reckoning has me thinking:

a) the total trans plate movement / total cable pull from P to L is the important measurement, in that as long as the shifter body channel in the cab is long enough to accomodate the lever’s full movement, the trans indents will fall where they may (and I can create the markings appropriately). Shortening the distance between the pivot point holes might help to line up with OEM shifter markings, but if I’m going to recreate them, maybe the OEM holes will be ok?

b) the shifter end of the cable has an eyelet so the angle relative to the shifter lever will change as it moves through the gears. Or is this connection meant to be tight and secure? You can see on my pics that the the level/cable connection is super loose (enough that I want to get in through the top and fix it) so I assumed the cable connection is meant to swivel a bit.

Thanks again for your info and response. Will have a non-groggy look later today.

A) There are hard indents (gates) on the Toyota transmission shifter that force PRD2L positions. The gates are internal., rather than external like the B&M shifter.

B) Yes, the relative angle of the shift cable will change as it exits the cable housing. The 6l80e shifter cable end has provisions for slight angle changes as the transmission shifter travels through its arc. There should be zero back and forth movement in the cable to shifter connection, other than rotational.

 

[bart0]

A) There are hard indents (gates) on the Toyota transmission shifter that force PRD2L positions. The gates are internal., rather than external like the B&M shifter.

B) Yes, the relative angle of the shift cable will change as it exits the cable housing. The 6l80e shifter cable end has provisions for slight angle changes as the transmission shifter travels through its arc. There should be zero back and forth movement in the cable to shifter connection, other than rotational.

Thanks for the info. Yes, it makes sense that there should be no forward back slop in the connection

You're right about the internal gates on the OEM shifter for P R N but below D the are no gates. I will have to attend to these if/when I try to restore my 2 and L gears. Currently P R N D are almost perfectly aligned to the trans indents. Hopefully I can get to this connection through the top rather than below as the exhaust and other bits are in the way. I've also noticed there is no heat shielding of the cable from the exhaust as is specified with a B&M shifter install. I wonder if 7+ years of LS swap driving has affected the cable somehow in the less-used gears

OEM shifter gates FZJ80:

 

[kvncssdy]

Howdy, I am new to this website and am having trouble navigating it but I am saving up the money to swap my stock 1991 Landcruiser to what I anticipate will be a 5.3 L Chevy vortec with a 4L60E transmission with a adapter to fit it to the stock transfer case. I am having trouble getting the bolts connecting the drive shafts and the transfer case to get loose even with heat. I came to stop on I-5 almost a year ago with what I have been told were transmission issues and my rig has been sitting in a barn since then. Any advice and recommendations are welcome. Sorry If I am posting in the wrong place.

 

[NeverFinis]

Howdy, I am new to this website and am having trouble navigating it but I am saving up the money to swap my stock 1991 Landcruiser to what I anticipate will be a 5.3 L Chevy vortec with a 4L60E transmission with a adapter to fit it to the stock transfer case. I am having trouble getting the bolts connecting the drive shafts and the transfer case to get loose even with heat. I came to stop on I-5 almost a year ago with what I have been told were transmission issues and my rig has been sitting in a barn since then. Any advice and recommendations are welcome. Sorry If I am posting in the wrong place.

Removing bolts not really a post for this thread but since you are here, those bolts can be very tight. It takes muscle and leverage to break them free. With very stuck bolts, I do use heat (and don't be gentle) and wax/penetrant (with plenty of soak time).

Since I am here...this is a beautiful thing for bleeding brakes. 15-20psi...just crack the lines... I don't know if it works yet since it isn't a runner yet, but it sure beats me yelling at my wife to "pump" and "hold".

 

[MUDZLLA]

Removing bolts not really a post for this thread but since you are here, those bolts can be very tight. It takes muscle and leverage to break them free. With very stuck bolts, I do use heat (and don't be gentle) and wax/penetrant (with plenty of soak time).

Since I am here...this is a beautiful thing for bleeding brakes. 15-20psi...just crack the lines... I don't know if it works yet since it isn't a runner yet, but it sure beats me yelling at my wife to "pump" and "hold".
View attachment 3529519

Yeah what is that thing? Does it work with no-one pressing on the pedal? To get all the fluid out of the master I would think one or two pumps is required. Beats my check valve on the drain line method if it works.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Yeah what is that thing? Does it work with no-one pressing on the pedal? To get all the fluid out of the master I would think one or two pumps is required. Beats my check valve on the drain line method if it works.

I used a similar one for another of my cars that was being painful to bleed, worth every cent. Pressurize system, bleed at each caliper as per usual bleed, depressurize and replace cap.

Awesome tool to have. Looks like that one has a universal clamping reservoir lid, very cool.