Anyone found a small charcoal canister for the fuel tank vent, I don't have room for the old one.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (15 Viewers)
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Looking for solution here as well. Venting to atmosphere is fine for the street but when wheeling the fumes are pretty strong.
I ultimately just used the OEM canister. Did you pin the PCM for an EVAP sensor?
That is a good question, I had it tuned and I don’t believe it was
I believe newer chevy trucks have the cannister along the frame somewhere. It's a box, not cylinder.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I am using the common AC/Delco aftermarket replacement for the Toyota one, but I am considering using the GM square one that fits on the frame rail. It would make plumbing and wiring the evap vent solenoid a bit easier and free up engine room space. It is on my figure out later list.
Amazon product ASIN B0BLZ8K8N6
This one may be what I need
This one may be what I need
IMO it is more important to remove the vapor and depressurize the fuel tank.
Either you use PCM with a sensor and engine vacuum or you manually do it with an AUX 12v vacuum and switch.
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NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I am working on this now. @thatcabledude is it impossible to run the transmission backwards instead of forwards?
I am thinking of cutting 20 mm from the Toyota's transmission gear select arm to move the connection point up, but also changing the angle to rotate the arm and rewelding it so that it points down instead of backwards when in Park. This should fix the issue with clearance with the floor pan and cable behind the lever. This should also let the transmission cable come in at a better angle. The angle is critical because it impacts the distance the cable moves with each gear shift.
This will move the connection point towards the center of the vehicle a bit also because material will be taken out of the angled section. I checked the t-case relay rod clearance I should be fine there.
As an aside, there is no straight mapping between Toyota PRND2L vs 6L90e PRNDM. Toyota is about 20mm from P to R, while the 6L90e is 21mm. About the same, but RND distance average is 15.5mm on the Toyota, while 10.5mm in the 6L90e. This makes the angle of how the transmission cable attaches very important.
Me testing and measure attachment points and angle, and the proposed cut.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I did this well kinda on a 60 but using a lokar floor mounted shifter because the shift rod angle was really steep and transmission 4l80e was back pretty far . I tried modifying the shifter arm of the floor shifter and that messed up the shift points I tried adjusting my shifter rod in and out but couldn't get it to in the right gear in the transmission copiared to the floor shifter. I ended up just going back to the length it was from lokar and dealing with the angle of the shifter rod. All in all its a finicky process once you start changing the geometry of the arm throw.
I've built a lot of linkages, shifters, clutch stuff, etc. My advise would be measure, draw, calculate, redesign, then cut.
If you take the time to reverse engineer the existing parts and make calculated changes you will get a good result every time. You will eventually get there with trial and error, but it can be a long road.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I 100% agree.
I went back and took some angle measurements of Toyota's gear lever in each position. I am measuring where the lever has a straight section at the bottom, relative the transmission console base plate. The straight section is obviously after an initial bend at the top. One could measure the angle of a straight line between the two pivots, but the way I did it was just easier for me for measure.
Also, assume there is error with the measurements but this is what I came up with for a 6L80/90e transmission with the spacing I posted originally. I doubt GM used different spacing with other transmissions, but I don't know.
The transmission cable needs to be attached to a new pivot point 96.1mm below the top pivot point (center to center). It should also be 129° to the final straight secition of the gear lever when it is in the Park position. Toyota's original spacing is 120mm center to center. A reduction of close to 24mm to work with a 6L80/90e.
Worse case: out 0.5mm in the last gear (L). That is within my measurement error.
At 129°, the transmission cable would have interference issues with the floor pan. This is what I original suspected. Which is why the @thatcabledude put the transmission cable in front of the lever as it would be pointing down, not up.
Cutting and rotating the transmission lever
YMMV..don't trust me...
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I love this. I don't however think I could accurately make this cut and weld to be this close.I 100% agree.
I went back and took some angle measurements of Toyota's gear lever in each position. I am measuring where the lever has a straight section at the bottom, relative the transmission console base plate. The straight section is obviously after an initial bend at the top. One could measure the angle of a straight line between the two pivots, but the way I did it was just easier for me for measure.
Also, assume there is error with the measurements but this is what I came up with for a 6L80/90e transmission with the spacing I posted originally. I doubt GM used different spacing with other transmissions, but I don't know.
The transmission cable needs to be attached to a new pivot point 96.1mm below the top pivot point (center to center). It should also be 129° to the final straight secition of the gear lever when it is in the Park position. Toyota's original spacing is 120mm center to center. A reduction of close to 24mm to work with a 6L80/90e.
Worse case: out 0.5mm in the last gear (L). That is within my measurement error.
At 129°, the transmission cable would have interference issues with the floor pan. This is what I original suspected. Which is why the @thatcabledude put the transmission cable in front of the lever as it would be pointing down, not up.
Cutting and rotating the transmission lever6123 degrees towards the front should put the transmission cable parallel to the floor pan.
YMMV..don't trust me...
View attachment 3475278
View attachment 3475299
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Lest see it for real not on paper or computer program. HahaI 100% agree.
I went back and took some angle measurements of Toyota's gear lever in each position. I am measuring where the lever has a straight section at the bottom, relative the transmission console base plate. The straight section is obviously after an initial bend at the top. One could measure the angle of a straight line between the two pivots, but the way I did it was just easier for me for measure.
Also, assume there is error with the measurements but this is what I came up with for a 6L80/90e transmission with the spacing I posted originally. I doubt GM used different spacing with other transmissions, but I don't know.
The transmission cable needs to be attached to a new pivot point 96.1mm below the top pivot point (center to center). It should also be 129° to the final straight secition of the gear lever when it is in the Park position. Toyota's original spacing is 120mm center to center. A reduction of close to 24mm to work with a 6L80/90e.
Worse case: out 0.5mm in the last gear (L). That is within my measurement error.
At 129°, the transmission cable would have interference issues with the floor pan. This is what I original suspected. Which is why the @thatcabledude put the transmission cable in front of the lever as it would be pointing down, not up.
Cutting and rotating the transmission lever6123 degrees towards the front should put the transmission cable parallel to the floor pan.
YMMV..don't trust me...
View attachment 3475278
View attachment 3475299
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I agree...I don't trust myself either.
I don't think you need to be accurate...
I think it would be fine to be off by a few millimeters with the cut and off with the angle.
It just needs to move the transmission selector into the next indent and the indent will take care of the rest.
The rubber bushing on the lever is important to help with this. Mine is old and stiff, so I need to get a new one.
I tacked it up yesterday. Setting the cut was easy. I just measured ~96 mm on my work bench. I cut apart the lever, then set the center of the holes at the marked locations.
I used a deep socket to align the part that jogs out. Clamped everything down, and tacked it together. The angle that you tack the two parts together isn't critical. You just want to make sure that the transmission cable has clearance from the floor pan.
The markings below correspond to P,R,N,D,2, and L and it is setting accurately at the last L.
I don't have a protractor to set the cable angle, so I ordered one yesterday. So, below was just changing the cable angle until the gear selector was able to hit all the markings.
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It's too bad my 80 series 6l80e bolt-on linkage isn't going to be ready for another few months. (4l60/80e) going to be available as well.
Me and @TYM4FUN have both used this canister in slightly different locations with good results. Working great here. Very simple and using the existing lines minus a new short vent line. We each have a writeup in our builds.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I am a buyer if you bring it to market but I would need to find another shift lever..
Although a Trailblazer transmission cable will work, the gear shift side of the cable was designed to be inside the vehicle, not outside. I am not sure how long it will last being exposed to the elements.
