8x Series V8 Swaps (3 Viewers)

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Thank you for that info.....
Good to know all this.....
 
Thanks for that. The plug I removed on the 4l60 was not a normal pipe plug. It had a short extension on it.

Thoughts on putting a tee on a cooler line very close to the trans? No t-stat.
If I were going to do something like that I would put it on the input to the cooler for ease and ease of access if ever needed.
 
There are trans coolers with provisions for a sensor but most of those are for transmission cooler fan temp sensor. To be honest I would either put the sensor in the pan or figure out a way to use the temp sensor in the transmission but I already know that won't work with the speed hut gauges. Almost 8 years on the 4l80e with the temp sensor in the port I mentioned no problems no over heating zero issues and he drives it almost daily also back and forth from Colorado Texas and Ohio it's a 1984 fj60 lq4 4l80e and split case not an 80 not that matters. If you can @MANUCHAO put it in the transmission pan.
 
Thanks. I just pulled my cable off and it doesn't even move smoothly off of the trans. Thinking I am going to get a different cable. I would think if you go the rod route. If both ends of the rod are threaded enough...couldn't you just then adjust and cut this rod to the length you need? (Once you got the angle figured out.) I am sure I am oversimplifying this.
I built a whole new setup for the shifter. All is good on the shifting now.
Redhead rebuild on the steering box plus making sure everything is tight really helped the steering. Also got it aligned. So that is good.
(Have to start working on the steering wheel conversion now)
I finally found an engine tuner that is amazing. (My original tuner was not good. My fault as I suspected he wasn't good.)
The tuner I am using is on Youtube...check him out and give him some love. He has been super quick to respond. https://www.youtube.com/@Matt_Sanford


Finally...brakes. I have read many posts on here. My brakes are well bled...I say that, but maybe not. I have speed bleeders all around. So here are my questions:
1997 LX450
I replaced all 4 calipers. I need to adjust the Ebrake. (More on that later)
I had a shop bleed the brakes. I have bled them. Added speed bleeders etc. The pedal is still soft.
1) I have a 3" lift from Delta..... is there a way to properly set the LSPV? I did get a bracket (Dobinsons) for it and I wonder if I have it set too high so hardly any flow is going there. Could be part of my braking problem.?
2) Anyone else have their brake pedal soften up after a LS Swap?
3) I don't think I have to bleed the ABS, but curious if that has to be done too?
4) anyone go aftermarket on Master Cylinder? If so...what did you get. ?

Thanks again.
 
The factory manual as an adjustment procedure on the lspv. How old is your lspv, master cylinder, and booster? Personally I recommend going to hydroboost.
It’s all original. The thing is it all worked before I tore it apart. Sure I could have messed it up. But was hoping to get it to work.
 
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Sometimes if you bleed an old system you can easily ruin the master cylinder.
only way to be sure would be to toss another in there I guess. Which I have one, but I was wondering in general...should I be looking for a larger MC? Don't think I am going hydro at this time.
 
Did some searching and aside from the DBW mention, is anyone having luck with cruise control other than Dakota Digital (DD)?

My LS swap has been running DD for ~20k miles without issue but recently started acting up (it would go dead). Swapped in a new unit and problem got worse. Pedal would engage without having foot on the gas (super freaky). Remove DD and problem is gone so I'm not eager to try a third DD unit. I'd rather live without cruise control than have a runaway truck.

Wanted to check in here and see if anyone has successfully been using a third option.

(disclosure: posted in Ls3 thread in 60 section too)
 
Did some searching and aside from the DBW mention, is anyone having luck with cruise control other than Dakota Digital (DD)?

My LS swap has been running DD for ~20k miles without issue but recently started acting up (it would go dead). Swapped in a new unit and problem got worse. Pedal would engage without having foot on the gas (super freaky). Remove DD and problem is gone so I'm not eager to try a third DD unit. I'd rather live without cruise control than have a runaway truck.

Wanted to check in here and see if anyone has successfully been using a third option.

(disclosure: posted in Ls3 thread in 60 section too)
What unit are you using? I don’t know anything about your engine setup, but is wiring the factory cruise function not a option?
 
What unit are you using? I don’t know anything about your engine setup, but is wiring the factory cruise function not a option?
L99, 6l80e, factory PCM (engine, tranny and pcm was pulled together from 2011 camaro). Drive by Wire.

I want to say the dakota unit is their CRC-1000

We're using the factor cruise controls on the steering column now. The dakota unit sits between the pedal and the PCM as I understand it.
 
L99, 6l80e, factory PCM (engine, tranny and pcm was pulled together from 2011 camaro). Drive by Wire.

I want to say the dakota unit is their CRC-1000

We're using the factor cruise controls on the steering column now. The dakota unit sits between the pedal and the PCM as I understand it.
Would like to know more about how you got it wired to the factory switch
 
I don't think this is specific to a LS Swap, but driving the other night I noticed my Center Diff Switch, the Hazard switch, and the rear defrost backlights were not on on any of these. I ordered new bulbs for them. Put them in and no change. So then I got out the multimeter and noticed both sides of the connections where the lights go in product a positive signal. Should I assume I am not grounded somewhere along the way? Note this is for the backlights for those switches only.
 
I'll throw this pic out for the group. May not apply 100% because of the FJ60 radiator but it's V8 related. And my chassis is an 80 🤪


GM PWM fan assy.
20231209_191509.jpg


Right side needs trimmed, for my application, but you can make out the part # if you need one.
20231209_191501.jpg
 
I'll throw this pic out for the group. May not apply 100% because of the FJ60 radiator but it's V8 related. And my chassis is an 80 🤪...

Right side needs trimmed, for my application, but you can make out the part # if you need one.
...
EDIT: NM Found it. 39013322 2017-2018 Chevy Cruze
Zooming in the part number is difficult to make out. Do you mind sharing the part number?

Also, how are you controlling the fan? The GM PCM or standalone?

Screenshot 2023-12-11 at 3.39.01 PM.png
 
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Only system not working is the ac. I’ve got it electronically working. Took it in to be serviced and won’t hold a vacuum. I asked them not to troubleshoot it. With it being a mutant I did t really want anyone digging in her. I’ll sort it out soon enough. Need to buy a little pressure pump or somtfrom harbor freight. Also. Defrost makes a pretty nice sauna in the car. It makes it worst than the fog! Got. Hester core leak. Probably swap it and the ac evaporator at the same time. Since I think you dang near need to take the dash apart.

IMG_5766.jpeg
 

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