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For what it’s worth
If I were going to do something like that I would put it on the input to the cooler for ease and ease of access if ever needed.Thanks for that. The plug I removed on the 4l60 was not a normal pipe plug. It had a short extension on it.
Thoughts on putting a tee on a cooler line very close to the trans? No t-stat.
I built a whole new setup for the shifter. All is good on the shifting now.Thanks. I just pulled my cable off and it doesn't even move smoothly off of the trans. Thinking I am going to get a different cable. I would think if you go the rod route. If both ends of the rod are threaded enough...couldn't you just then adjust and cut this rod to the length you need? (Once you got the angle figured out.) I am sure I am oversimplifying this.
It’s all original. The thing is it all worked before I tore it apart. Sure I could have messed it up. But was hoping to get it to work.The factory manual as an adjustment procedure on the lspv. How old is your lspv, master cylinder, and booster? Personally I recommend going to hydroboost.
Sometimes if you bleed an old system you can easily ruin the master cylinder.It’s all original. The thing is it all worked before I tore it apart. Sure I could have messed it up. But was hoping to get it to work.
only way to be sure would be to toss another in there I guess. Which I have one, but I was wondering in general...should I be looking for a larger MC? Don't think I am going hydro at this time.Sometimes if you bleed an old system you can easily ruin the master cylinder.
What unit are you using? I don’t know anything about your engine setup, but is wiring the factory cruise function not a option?Did some searching and aside from the DBW mention, is anyone having luck with cruise control other than Dakota Digital (DD)?
My LS swap has been running DD for ~20k miles without issue but recently started acting up (it would go dead). Swapped in a new unit and problem got worse. Pedal would engage without having foot on the gas (super freaky). Remove DD and problem is gone so I'm not eager to try a third DD unit. I'd rather live without cruise control than have a runaway truck.
Wanted to check in here and see if anyone has successfully been using a third option.
(disclosure: posted in Ls3 thread in 60 section too)
L99, 6l80e, factory PCM (engine, tranny and pcm was pulled together from 2011 camaro). Drive by Wire.What unit are you using? I don’t know anything about your engine setup, but is wiring the factory cruise function not a option?
Would like to know more about how you got it wired to the factory switchL99, 6l80e, factory PCM (engine, tranny and pcm was pulled together from 2011 camaro). Drive by Wire.
I want to say the dakota unit is their CRC-1000
We're using the factor cruise controls on the steering column now. The dakota unit sits between the pedal and the PCM as I understand it.
I can't help much there, as a shop did my swap.Would like to know more about how you got it wired to the factory switch
EDIT: NM Found it. 39013322 2017-2018 Chevy CruzeI'll throw this pic out for the group. May not apply 100% because of the FJ60 radiator but it's V8 related. And my chassis is an 80 ...
Right side needs trimmed, for my application, but you can make out the part # if you need one.
...
That's the part #EDIT: NM Found it. 39013322 2017-2018 Chevy Cruze
Zooming in the part number is difficult to make out. Do you mind sharing the part number?
Also, how are you controlling the fan? The GM PCM or standalone?
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