Yeah man. Anytime
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Definitely worth it! I wish I looked at TorFab as well though, the shipping for the radius was nearly as much as the parts.
I’ve got the same water pump, no spacers. You just need them if you use the ls3 water pump. It could just be how I positioned the engine but that shorter water pump neck ends about even with the middle of the intake pipe when using the radius fab air box. I could run under the intake but it bends the radiator hose a little more than I would like. I also had to shim the air box up about 1/4” on the corner where the intake pipe comes in. The pipe was 1/8” from the belt tensioner pulley that bolts to the water pump.
90311-48016 or NOK # AH2774F
i need to replace mine, started to leak slowly
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Did mine a few days ago and realized the OEM tease input seal is the same specs. Not sure why Marks doesn’t just supply that. Definitely better quality.
She's alive!
But I've got a bit of rough idle.
Factory pcv valve is still connected to the left valve cover, and with the right vent hooked to the intake, it's rough. Unhook it and it smooths out.
Idle is about 550-600 at 18% throttle "D"
But I've got a bit of rough idle.
Factory pcv valve is still connected to the left valve cover, and with the right vent hooked to the intake, it's rough. Unhook it and it smooths out.
Idle is about 550-600 at 18% throttle "D"
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Is that the a way it was in the donor vehicle straight to the intake or was it off the air filter housing just thinking out loud here maybe to much vacuum?
Also started mine for the first time today too
Any way to use the toyota switch we have to run the cruise control on my dbw?
Easiest way I know of is to use a dakota digital or rostra kit with a cable linkage on the accelerator pedal wired to the toyota switch. But I haven't looked into it much.
I finally got Rose out. I have run through a tank and a half. Still quite a few things to address:
Steering wheel play is #1 on the list. I have about a 1.5-2" left and right movement before the wheels are moved. I went through and tightened the septor shaft, but to no avail. I live near red head so I will just have my Box rebuilt.
While on steering, I am curious what others are running. I have a PS Pump that goes to the Steering Box and I had a cooler after the box and it went back to the pump. Funny thing is I removed the cooler because I was leaking then this AM I blew the end of the line off. The crimp stayed, but the hard part of the line blew out. I assume I am running way too much pressure. Curious what others are running. I may be in the market to re-do my steering setup.
Steering wheel play is #1 on the list. I have about a 1.5-2" left and right movement before the wheels are moved. I went through and tightened the septor shaft, but to no avail. I live near red head so I will just have my Box rebuilt.
While on steering, I am curious what others are running. I have a PS Pump that goes to the Steering Box and I had a cooler after the box and it went back to the pump. Funny thing is I removed the cooler because I was leaking then this AM I blew the end of the line off. The crimp stayed, but the hard part of the line blew out. I assume I am running way too much pressure. Curious what others are running. I may be in the market to re-do my steering setup.
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Is this your first land cruiser or solid axle 4x4?
I tightened mine as well with slot of slop still. Not expecting it to be super tight, but it’s pretty dang sloppy still. Im going to try and tighten the preload on the interior bearing caps. See if that helps.
No. I've had 3 3rd gen 4Runners that were at various levels of wheelers. I've had multiple built Jeeps as well. The situation I am referencing is that there is slop yes, but ALSO when driving down a regular road, it shouldn't be white knuckles to keep it in a single lane. Which is where I'm at rn. I took the steering box to Red Head today and they confirmed some of what I thought already. My rig, while it has a loud LS and is lifted will not see anything significant in an off-road setting. I would expect to be able to drive 1 handed and have a conversation with my passenger etc. Which one could not do with mine.
Since you are here. Did you adjust the PSI on your PS pump down on the LS after you swapped it?
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I considered this and talked to the guys at Redhead about this very thing while there. I have rebuilt everything else on this guy up to this point so I just went ahead with the rebuild.
How’s your rear track bar angle, if it’s not flat you will be steering for every bump in the road, guess it’s different from slop though.
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Does it have caster correction? Did you correct the rear panhard angle?
No I have never installed on of those flow restrictors on any of the swaps I’ve done.
I ended up rebuilding my box - it was definitely due. Also replaced TREs, set proper steering preload, changed to a dobbie stabilizer, added Delta arms up front and panhard correction in the back and had a 4-wheel alignment. so it's hard to say how much difference the box alone made.
Result was what you're looking for though. 1 hand on the wheel at highway speed and no drama.
Have you checked the wheel bearing preload?
Thanks. I have the same setup a Feldrain from Delta. I have rebuilt all 4 corners. Once the box is back I’ll get a 4 wheel alignment. I’m close enough I Feldrain to drop by his place. We can do side by side test.
Thanks for the help. Sorry my phone is terrible...so everything is misspelled
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