Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (12 Viewers)

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I thought about doing this as well, but budget is tight.



I looked at the Dakota boxes, but a 25ish dollar dash cluster vs a 200 something for the box to get the tach to work... Again my budget is tight. My main focus is to make it work and function as "cheap" as possible.
I've never tried to retrofit a gm cluster. My gut tells me it will be more labor than its worth. Personally I would just connect everything but the tach, all the other gauges are easy to make work. Set the tach wire aside for later. Then when u have more funds hook up the tach. That's what I did anyway. I think that would be easier than spending 2 or 3 days on the gm cluster only to find it won't work possibly. But maybe on the other hand you have it figured out with the gm tach. If so great.
 
I’m about to do a swap on my 91 as well. How did you do the mating the gm to Toyota harness? I know there’s a lot that can be eliminated from the Toyota harness.
You have to become familiar with the toyota wiring diagrams and the gm wiring diagrams and then remove and add circuits as necessary.
 
I’m installing a shifter out of a (I think) 94’ cruiser, because of the extra shift you get with them. It seems there’s no stopper in between D and 3rd gear though. Can’t you accidentally shift into 3rd going 70mph?
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I’m installing a shifter out of a (I think) 94’ cruiser, because of the extra shift you get with them. It seems there’s no stopper in between D and 3rd gear though. Can’t you accidentally shift into 3rd going 70mph?View attachment 2308234

I believe it has to be from a 92 or earlier; that’s what gives you the extra position. The FJ80, not the FZJ80, is where you find that shifter.
 
Did this today. 👍
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Has anyone run a Chevy dash cluster instead of the factory cluster? Seems it would eliminate a lot of work on the oil pressure, temp, and tach.
This is the route I plan to take..
I was also running on the cheap as possible side, i tried to fit the gm cluster in there but it wasn't going to work without hacking up the whole dash, and then you would still have to live without your blinker/ high beam/ odometer/ fuel tank level and other things. The problem is really the circuit board on the back of the gm cluster doesn't allow for easy modification. I just ended up putting an after market tach in the place of the factory toyota one and running it off of the gm tach signal wire.
 
So the motor is wired and ready to fire. Obviously I have a lot more to go. I am just going to stick w/ the stock cluster. I hoped that the GM one could work but it’s not.


I was also running on the cheap as possible side, i tried to fit the gm cluster in there but it wasn't going to work without hacking up the whole dash, and then you would still have to live without your blinker/ high beam/ odometer/ fuel tank level and other things. The problem is really the circuit board on the back of the gm cluster doesn't allow for easy modification. I just ended up putting an after market tach in the place of the factory toyota one and running it off of the gm tach signal wire.
Got a pic?
 
I was also running on the cheap as possible side, i tried to fit the gm cluster in there but it wasn't going to work without hacking up the whole dash, and then you would still have to live without your blinker/ high beam/ odometer/ fuel tank level and other things. The problem is really the circuit board on the back of the gm cluster doesn't allow for easy modification. I just ended up putting an after market tach in the place of the factory toyota one and running it off of the gm tach signal wire.
i do not get some people what is the problem with toyota cluster i made all my stuff to work same like with toyota engine only extra part i used was dakota RPM converter
 
i do not get some people what is the problem with toyota cluster i made all my stuff to work same like with toyota engine only extra part i used was dakota RPM converter

nothing wrong w/ trying something different.
 
This thread is for V8 swaps to 80 Series Toyota Land Cruisers.

Your truck frame must start with the following: FJ80-0xxxxxx or FZJ80-0xxxxxx. Of course, it can also start with an HDJ/HZJ iteration. Only the Aussies yank out perfectly good Toyota diesel engines to swap V8 power into them... Oh and our friends in the ME as well. :)

Your frame number will always be on the RH side of your truck, on the frame, right near your front RH shock.

Please post direct links to your build thread, post pertinent technical information, and discuss TECHNICAL aspects of V8 swaps into the 8x platform.

No diesel V8's; only small block or big block petrol V8's.

And, yes, Toyota Industries and Bodine Alumimum 4.7L and 5.7L engines are included. One cannot discount how perfect Toyota V8's are in the 8x Series Chassis. Of course, this option requires the serious expertise.


Please keep all discussions pertinent to only technical aspects of petrol V8 swaps--the real "doing" of a swap; no selling of swaps, no vendor sales, no discussions of merit vs a Toyota power plant.

Just: "I did a LT-1 swap and this is how I did it, these are the parts I used, these are the resources I relied upon (pertinent informational resources), this is how much it cost, this is what I would do differently next time, these are the people that did my swap, this is something new I discovered about X."

Keep it empirically-based and keep it authentic.

Drive fast and take chances.
This just what us newbs need as this Ls swap can get confusing and for most of us that don’t have brinks truck full of money need in the DIY world! Good for you Thanks
 
i do not get some people what is the problem with toyota cluster i made all my stuff to work same like with toyota engine only extra part i used was dakota RPM converter
For me half of my guages were broken already lol.
 
Quick question and I may have missed it, but did anyone have to add any type of restrictor to the power steering pump?
 
Nope, LS pump straight to steering box and return.
 
i do not get some people what is the problem with toyota cluster i made all my stuff to work same like with toyota engine only extra part i used was dakota RPM converter
As i said, "cheap as possible", i had a tach and didn't want to pay $100 for a signal converter.
 
still a lot to do, but fired up the motor last night!
I can't figure out how to load a video from my iPhone... :bang:
 

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