Looking a bit dirty due to some slight off road use, but the engine is a new GM crate motor.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (22 Viewers)
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I meant clutch fan....
Is it hot only at idle or while driving at speed too? The flex a lite fans aren't really meant for good cooling, they're designed to create less drag on the engine. If it's hot while driving your rad might be old and blocked up with junk.
I curious about the radiator you used. Where did you get it ?Ok I'll play.
1997 LC:
- GM Erod 6.2 LS3 crate engine
- GM 4L70E transmission. Chose 4L over 6L for standalone trans controller, less weight, ease of install, and (hopefully) ease of servicing should anything go wrong on long hauls. Not planning to take the rig over 550 RWHP, and will be towing often.
- Cruise control (converted the shift knob's "overdrive" thumb button to cruise control button)
- Keeping full time AWD
- Frontrunner driveline kit
- Mechanical fan, 20" F150 fan blade, aluminum radiator
- Compushift controller
- Advance Adapters transfer case/adapter kit
- Borla Pro XS exhaust
- Added lots of other fun mods while in there!
Just started her up last weekend and will get a video up of that soon.
Have posted these pics in other discussions so apologies for those who have seen them already. Pics below are out of order on the build - will probably put up a full build detail when it's done:
It's perfect at idle but under a load, or while driving it runs hot. It has yet to over heat but I have not been driving it any real distance. Also, the a/c seems to really punish the temp gauge.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
These are OPINIONS formed both by doing a number of LS based swaps into Land Cruisers along with extensive and continuing research regarding all manner of issues that swaps present.
Here's the thing on cooling. These motors are not known for having over heating issues in the vehicles they are used in, from the factory. Whether they are using mechanical fans or electric fans the vehicles cool just fine.
One item talked about a bit regarding cooling issues across all vehicles having LS based swaps is that more often than not the radiator in the target vehicle is smaller in surface area open to air flow. This is true with Land Cruisers. In order to overcome this we have to present alternate ways of providing sufficient cooling. This is not rocket science, but it is expensive. I currently use Ron Davis radiators in my swaps. I do this because they build quality radiators that still have the tank welded to the core, not epoxied. Smaller surface area but better air flow and more cooling fins etc.
Next and as important to cooling area is air flow. A proper shroud is required no matter what fan system used. This is an item often either overlooked or thrown together in a rush at the end of a swap. In most cases you have at leas a condenser for the AC in front of the radiator, I mount coolers for PS and trans in front of them as well, cooling works well.
Another item is a heater valve that keeps coolant running through the water pump when the heat is off. I have found that it lowers temp 10-15 degrees across the board.
Using a mechanical fan with a crate motor has pretty much become extinct. There is a special water pump with a hub that allows mounting of a fan but at over $1K by the time it gets here from AUS it is cost prohibitive. I much prefer a manual fan but it also becomes a parts issue as well when the water pump goes south.
Bottom line on all of this, plan a good cooling system into the budget for your swap. This is NOT the place to cut corners.
Here's the thing on cooling. These motors are not known for having over heating issues in the vehicles they are used in, from the factory. Whether they are using mechanical fans or electric fans the vehicles cool just fine.
One item talked about a bit regarding cooling issues across all vehicles having LS based swaps is that more often than not the radiator in the target vehicle is smaller in surface area open to air flow. This is true with Land Cruisers. In order to overcome this we have to present alternate ways of providing sufficient cooling. This is not rocket science, but it is expensive. I currently use Ron Davis radiators in my swaps. I do this because they build quality radiators that still have the tank welded to the core, not epoxied. Smaller surface area but better air flow and more cooling fins etc.
Next and as important to cooling area is air flow. A proper shroud is required no matter what fan system used. This is an item often either overlooked or thrown together in a rush at the end of a swap. In most cases you have at leas a condenser for the AC in front of the radiator, I mount coolers for PS and trans in front of them as well, cooling works well.
Another item is a heater valve that keeps coolant running through the water pump when the heat is off. I have found that it lowers temp 10-15 degrees across the board.
Using a mechanical fan with a crate motor has pretty much become extinct. There is a special water pump with a hub that allows mounting of a fan but at over $1K by the time it gets here from AUS it is cost prohibitive. I much prefer a manual fan but it also becomes a parts issue as well when the water pump goes south.
Bottom line on all of this, plan a good cooling system into the budget for your swap. This is NOT the place to cut corners.
NCFJ, do you have more info on the heater valve yo use, I need to plumb the heater next...
Thanks
Thanks
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
The heater valve i use is a Murray 74781
It comes set up with a vacuum actuator. I remove that actuator and it is left with a little lever, it's on the bottom out of view. Move the lever twice a year for Summer and Winter.
It comes set up with a vacuum actuator. I remove that actuator and it is left with a little lever, it's on the bottom out of view. Move the lever twice a year for Summer and Winter.
NCFJ, I noticed you use the heat shrink tubing for hose clamps. Would you comment on the reliability and ease of use of such a clamp?
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I have been using them for a couple years now with no issues to date. They have been in use in the trucking industry for a while now with good results. I like them because they will tighten up on the next heat cycle if a gap somehow develops. They are also very clean visually. Lets face it, we all hate those metal clamps even if they are proper Toyota two band clamps
Simple to use, all you need is a heat gun. They make a special tool to cut them off, a box cutter works too.
Simple to use, all you need is a heat gun. They make a special tool to cut them off, a box cutter works too.
The TBI engines run a hotter stat and are designed to run at that temp. They use 195 degree stat and run over 200 degrees all day. LS engines run cooler.
I have been using them for a couple years now with no issues to date. They have been in use in the trucking industry for a while now with good results. I like them because they will tighten up on the next heat cycle if a gap somehow develops. They are also very clean visually. Lets face it, we all hate those metal clamps even if they are proper Toyota two band clamps
Simple to use, all you need is a heat gun. They make a special tool to cut them off, a box cutter works too.
Are those the same thing that this guy is going off about?
NCJF, Can you explain further on the heater valve? If I understand, in “W” mode it flows coolant to the heater valve on the firewall and in “S” mode it merely recirculates coolant avoiding the heater circuit altogether?The heater valve i use is a Murray 74781
It comes set up with a vacuum actuator. I remove that actuator and it is left with a little lever, it's on the bottom out of view. Move the lever twice a year for Summer and Winter.
Thanks...Don
NFCJ, thanks for the info, I'll pick one up today.
It will be the first progress on my swap in several months!
It will be the first progress on my swap in several months!
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
You are correct, Summer and Winter mode
bloc
SILVER Star
Well, my rig is up for sale. here's the classified thread: For Sale - 1994 + 6.2L LS.. and much more.
the 944 swaps forum had a thread on a heater valve out of a grand-am that opens when it senses backpressure.. maybe that would be easier?
Simple Heater Valve Solution for Early Cars (And Late)
the 944 swaps forum had a thread on a heater valve out of a grand-am that opens when it senses backpressure.. maybe that would be easier?
Simple Heater Valve Solution for Early Cars (And Late)
Whats the OBD version? My adapter isn't working either.
i have universal dakota tachometer and i cant get it to work looks like the unit is defective if i do self test it works sometime and most time does not
what settings and what output everyone else is using
what settings and what output everyone else is using
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
