8x Series V8 Swaps (17 Viewers)

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Decided to try something new for the engine mounts. On both my 88 Fj62 and my current 97 Lx450, I used universal motor mounts. They work well, but are really stiff, so you get some vibrations at idle with the AC on. Brentok used f-body LS1 motor mounts on custom pedestals. Seem to not have the vibration problems as idle. I decided to try something similar.. I built mounts to set on the existing LX450 motor mounts pedsstals that utilized the F-Body LS1 motor mounts.
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New style vs 1st prototype
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I am putting an LS3 connect and cruise in 140 build. The compressor for the AC is a different model than the last LS3 crate I used and required a little frame work. Both "scallops are made from 4.5" x .250" wall tubing. Raising the motor any more would start to bring the drive train farther from level than I like.

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Thanks Cam, could not bring myself to weld in flat plate :)
 
Nice work @MarkN , I will probably be copying your idea, already have the Camaro mounts on the way.
 
I am looking at that AC clearance and I am jealous. That is the thing with Vortec/LS swaps, there are simply no two the same. I go out of my way to make all my swaps as similar as possible but it gets hard at times. Things change, and often.

Want to drive yourself crazy, go research how many changes have been made to starters, AC compressors, Alternators and Power steering pumps and reservoirs over the years. Then research the different arrangements of those components. Then research how the front drive assembly interacts with throttle body position. Then how water pump inlet and outlet position works with all of the above. There's more..........................
 
Hi, I have a LY5 engine with an H150F manual transmition (5 speeds) and it doesn't get over 4500rpm. Does anyone had this same problem? Any ideas about the possible cause? Txs
 
Sounds to me like you have an automatic tune and it thinks the transmission is in park all the time. You might be able to fool it somehow to think it's always in drive or get it reflashed by someone.
 
You need to have it set up so it's converting a 4 cylinder signal to a 6 cyl signal and have it connected to one of the black wires that went to the toyota PCM. You can also get the GM PCM tuned so it puts out a 6 cylinder signal which would eliminate the dakota digital converter
 
My steps on the previous (i think) page don't work?
i did not go by that wiring i did my own i even called dakota digital but i got not so helpful customer support the keep telling me it should work
but it is not working i have extra cluster swapped the original with extra one and it does not work , gauge jumps at start up to about 800 rpm and after that it is dead after that
 
Why you guys insist on keeping crappy old gauges is beyond me. It is not that hard to retrofit new, up to date gauges to communicate with your new, up to date motor. There are all kinds of custom and standard gauge faces to choose from. It might be a shock for OEM gauge lovers though. There are actually numbers on the temp and oil pressure gauges. I know, I know, C and a half is normal running temperature for a Land Cruiser. :)
 
I am looking at that AC clearance and I am jealous. That is the thing with Vortec/LS swaps, there are simply no two the same. I go out of my way to make all my swaps as similar as possible but it gets hard at times. Things change, and often.

Want to drive yourself crazy, go research how many changes have been made to starters, AC compressors, Alternators and Power steering pumps and reservoirs over the years. Then research the different arrangements of those components. Then research how the front drive assembly interacts with throttle body position. Then how water pump inlet and outlet position works with all of the above. There's more..........................


All of my builds have been Gen III truck engines (low budget... LOL). Very consistent in how the accessories mount. I can only imagine how many different combinations there are for car and crate engines.
 
I have literally not put the exact same engine package in twice. This latest AC package takes up a lot of real estate. The alternative is to go with a top mount AC but that starts getting into space the intake and upper radiator hose occupy.

I like the truck package best, the mechanical fan is a big preference of mine but not supported on non truck motors. I also feel that the iron block 5.3L is the best overall package for the LC. The LS3 is nice, but way more than really needed for day to day driving. Unfortunately the 5.3L crate truck motor is no longer available and most of my customers have been leaning toward crate motors over pull out motors.
 
i did not go by that wiring i did my own i even called dakota digital but i got not so helpful p2060353.m2749.l2649keep telling me it should work
but it is not working i have extra cluster swapped the original with extra one and it does not work , gauge jumps at start up to about 800 rpm and after that it is dead after that
I have the same problem. I believe the issue is with 91 and 92 tachs. I think the Dakota converter sends out square wave voltage pulses and the 91 nd 92 needs voltage spikes is my theory. I bought a adapter to convert the Dakota signal to spikes but have been too busy to install it.

TACHOMETER SIGNAL BOOSTER / SPARK COIL SIMULATOR, 3~16V Input -> 55V+ Output 669439381151 | eBay

Interestingly the same vendor on ebay sells a tach converter like the Dakota one for about half the price.
 

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