thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Lol. Thanks
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The only pictures I have right now were posted in the earlier pages of this thread. I can call and ask Josh to get some more detailed pictures of both but it takes a while for him to get back to me since they are so busy right now. Let me see what I can come up with for you.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I'd like to see a close up of their engine mounts if possible. Looks like factory rubber is retained.
I can tell you my experience with the marks mounts was that the engine sat way to high. They told me they were for a left hand drive truck but im not sure that was correct either because i couls get the passenger side to line up ok but was going to have to cut apart the drivers side mount to get it to fit correctly. The angle were all wrong on it. With it sitting on just the pass mount ,and the engine supported so level , There was about 3 inches from the bottom of the fbody pan to the round tubular cross member. It left the engine sitting so high that the hood wouldn't close. The engine is a 5.3 gen IV with the truck intake. After i took them out and made my own mounts i could close the hood with the plastic engine cover on and the oil pan to cross member clearance was reduced to about 3/4" I like the way it fits much better. Truck has no body lift or firewall/ trans tunnel mods
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Thanks for the info. It looks like it would be too easy to make mounts that the $200 price tag pretty much rules them out for me although plug and play is always nice. Was mainly curious why hadn't ever seen any mention of them. Kinda seems like over in Australia their swaps always have car intakes. Maybe that's part of the issue.
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Found a way to help keep the fluid boiling under check. Also rerouted the fuel lines away from the exhaust.
Good point. When I go through emissions in AZ I always run the hell out of my car's on the way and keep things nice and warm before I get on the rollers. This definitely helps to reduce nitrogen oxides and hydrocarbons.
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Here are some pics of my completed exhaust. I opted to build it all from 304 stainless, helps that my friend offered to tig weld the whole thing. I used Cadillac CTS-V manifolds and went 2 1/2" into a Y collector. 3" from there to the back. I went over the transfer case output with the pipe and there was plenty of room to do it with 3" mandrel bends and no rattling. Let me know what you all think. I have been driving it for the past week and am very happy with the way it all came together
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
So CTS-V manifolds clear the frame OK?
Yes ,they clear fine. I am using the truck front accessories and shifted the engine slightly to the passenger side for power steering pump clearance. I did put a small notch in the frame rail ( passenger side inside) to make getting the pipe on and off the collector easier. The flanges on the manifold were also trimmed down to eliminate a bunch of extra material that overhung the flanges. I just bolted on a set of 2 1/2" flanges and trimmed the manifold to match the shape of the flange. I can't say enough about the performance and flow of the CTS-V's. my engine "only" makes 330 hp which is a lot less than the 6.2 in the caddy so it's not a restriction. The pictures are kind of dark i'll put up some better ones.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Thanks for that info. More pics would be awesome too.
Ok it is official. The +/- shifter works as well as the factory gear position indicator in the dash. This took a little work to make it all come together and play nicely with the 6L80E.
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@azcrackshot ive had to take a break from my build, and have not been following the builds in progress.
Did you post a p/n for the tap shifter you used ?
Did you post a p/n for the tap shifter you used ?
Aktundra,
No nothing was posted about the shifter yet. There really isn't a part number that you buy off the shelf that will work without some fabrication. I will post all of the info once the build is complete and I have confirmed for myself driving it that everything works as it should. The videos are sent to me from Horsepower Solutions the shop I hired to do the build for me. I can tell you that it's not even close to plug & play. Lot's of hours into making it work. You have to fabricate custom shifter rods and ditch the cables and it gets more involved making the gear indicator work on the dash. I will leave some of this for Josh from Horsepower Solutions to elaborate on as he spent the time figuring it out. He plans on posting a build thread but I am not sure when. They are a busy shop. I told them to put a kit together and offer it for sale to others that want this. I am picking my 80 up in January and plan to take some of my own pictures and post a few details once I have it. Sorry I couldn't help much more than this at the present time.
Today's update. The motor started on the first turn of the key! The tach is working, oil pressure gauge, and all other factory lights and sensors are hooked up and working. Engine and trans tuning tomorrow. Dyno runs after the holidays and lot's of testing before I pick it up in January. The blue tape has been removed from all the aluminum parts and it did it's job to protect during the build. Lot's of aluminum fittings and stainless fittings and a bunch of heat shields were made to keep the heat from the cats away from everything. Here is the last picture I received tonight.
duggy
SILVER Star
That looks killer
