8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)

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So, has anybody been able to use the vortec truck pan or are we going with the f-body oil pan? Also, what exhaust manifolds are people using? I saw cts-v manifolds but are there others? I have an 03 lq4 with a 4l80 thats going in my 92. Working on wiring right now but those 2 things are soon to be done.
 
Work the selection of an exhaust manifold and the selection of engine mounts together. I took Hooker Headers 2313HKR - Hooker Super Competition Block Hugger to the shop. These are more or less, center dump, the factory manifold is rear dump. The shop ended up using the factory manifold, but in the end we figured each approach had its own set of problems to be worked. I had dirty dingo universal hot rod engine mounts
 
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So, has anybody been able to use the vortec truck pan or are we going with the f-body oil pan? Also, what exhaust manifolds are people using? I saw cts-v manifolds but are there others? I have an 03 lq4 with a 4l80 thats going in my 92. Working on wiring right now but those 2 things are soon to be done.


As for the cts-v manifolds we tried them and they point straight at the frame. If you cut and weld and put some fab work into it they will work. The most popular bolt on manifold that fits without any fab work is the Hooker LS Cast Iron manifold. Keep in mind the cts-v manifold looks factory and is CARB legal and would get past the emissions visual inspection a little easier than the Hooker which is not CARB legal. Depends if you get a nice guy when you go to get a waiver and in many cases it's all about which state you live in.
 
Folks, how can I get a signal from the OEM Oil Pressure sender to the dash gauge?
Seems like the sender has a terminal top/center with a connector that slides on from the side.
How is this sender grounded? Do I need any other connections ?
 
Gorgeous setup! Great job!


Today's update. The motor started on the first turn of the key! The tach is working, oil pressure gauge, and all other factory lights and sensors are hooked up and working. Engine and trans tuning tomorrow. Dyno runs after the holidays and lot's of testing before I pick it up in January. The blue tape has been removed from all the aluminum parts and it did it's job to protect during the build. Lot's of aluminum fittings and stainless fittings and a bunch of heat shields were made to keep the heat from the cats away from everything. Here is the last picture I received tonight.


View attachment 1370649 View attachment 1370650 View attachment 1370651
 
Folks, how can I get a signal from the OEM Oil Pressure sender to the dash gauge?
Seems like the sender has a terminal top/center with a connector that slides on from the side.
How is this sender grounded? Do I need any other connections ?
The factory oil sender plugs into the chassis harness not the engine harness. the plug is right behind the air cleaner and also has to wire in it for the a/c clutch. I just extended the wiring so it would route cleanly over to the sender. yes it does have 2 wires going to it. the second one is a ground to ensure it reads correctly
 
Has everyone been using the Dakota Digital tach interface to get a stable tach signal with your LS swap? Do you get a 3 second delay before your factory tach displays rpm? Must be the process of going through the box that causes this. Just curious.

We tried the MSD and the Dakota and liked the Dakota better.
 
funny you bring that up. I have a Dakota Digital for the speedo re calibration and one for the tach. I have not been able to make my tach work yet. The DD box says it's not getting an input signal. I have the E38 ecm and the harness maker provided the tach output signal wire. I can use the test function on the DD to make the tach show 2000 rpm but it appears I either have no signal or a very weak signal going in or a prob with the DD box. I am figuring it is a low signal input problem. I tried several size pull up resistors with no luck. I have a working autometer tach for the GEN III 6.0L in my jeep so I will try to use some of the working parts from that to cross test the ecm in the Lexus and post what I find. This is the last piece of the swap to finish
 
funny you bring that up. I have a Dakota Digital for the speedo re calibration and one for the tach. I have not been able to make my tach work yet. The DD box says it's not getting an input signal. I have the E38 ecm and the harness maker provided the tach output signal wire. I can use the test function on the DD to make the tach show 2000 rpm but it appears I either have no signal or a very weak signal going in or a prob with the DD box. I am figuring it is a low signal input problem. I tried several size pull up resistors with no luck. I have a working autometer tach for the GEN III 6.0L in my jeep so I will try to use some of the working parts from that to cross test the ecm in the Lexus and post what I find. This is the last piece of the swap to finish

Remind me are you using HP tuners? What did you set the cylinder count to?

Not sure if any of this helps but here is a link with some useful info.
GEN IV E38 Tach Settings for aftermarket tach (autometer)
 
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funny you bring that up. I have a Dakota Digital for the speedo re calibration and one for the tach. I have not been able to make my tach work yet. The DD box says it's not getting an input signal. I have the E38 ecm and the harness maker provided the tach output signal wire. I can use the test function on the DD to make the tach show 2000 rpm but it appears I either have no signal or a very weak signal going in or a prob with the DD box. I am figuring it is a low signal input problem. I tried several size pull up resistors with no luck. I have a working autometer tach for the GEN III 6.0L in my jeep so I will try to use some of the working parts from that to cross test the ecm in the Lexus and post what I find. This is the last piece of the swap to finish

Funny that YOU bring that up!

I had the exact same problem with mine (E38/Gen IV/Pac Fab Harness), in not getting the Dakota Digital tach adapter to work off the tach signal wire. Never could resolve it.

Ended up using Dakota's adapter that runs off the OBD port. Works like a champ. Even use an OBD splitter to run a Scan Gauge.

IMG_9591.JPG
 
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The alternator looks somewhat close to the battery box.. how much room is there?

Also does that outboard alternator setup move the power steering pump in or up to make more room between it and the PS box?

Otherwise, amazing looking rig.
 
6L80/90E tuning

Can we talk a bit about the 6L options? I'm looking at dozens of engines on ebay, and many don't come with transmissions. I'm seeing advice to run a transmission from the exact vehicle, but sometimes that is prohibitive.

Are there general guidelines as to which PCMs can be flashed to which transmission? Which ones need special tone rings?

Are there options besides fabricating the addition of bolts and microswitches to get P/N interlock and Reverse lights? I know there's a dakota digital adapter to eliminate the GM body control module from being necessary for DBW cruise... but something for P/N/R?
 
@bloc It's good advice to get all the pieces from the same donor. When it gets down to troubleshooting 1st start, it just helps eliminate possible causes for issues.

I used this web site to find the year make and model(s) that had the engine(s) I was looking for

LSx Engine Identification - LS1TECH

Then this web site to find engines

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market


Turns out a yard just down the street was listing an AL 5.3 with 6,000 miles. Drove out and made a package deal for engine+AT+peddle+PCM+MAF+o2+harness
 
Funny that YOU bring that up!

I had the exact same problem with mine (E38/Gen IV/Pac Fab Harness), in not getting the Dakota Digital tach adapter to work off the tach signal wire. Never could resolve it.

Ended up using Dakota's adapter that runs off the OBD port. Works like a champ. Even use an OBD splitter to run a Scan Gauge.

View attachment 1373743
I have th DD SGI-8E tach adaptor so I may have to try the one you are using. Going to try mixing and matching with my Gen III 6.0 to see where the prob might be
 
6L80/90E tuning

Can we talk a bit about the 6L options? I'm looking at dozens of engines on ebay, and many don't come with transmissions. I'm seeing advice to run a transmission from the exact vehicle, but sometimes that is prohibitive.

Are there general guidelines as to which PCMs can be flashed to which transmission? Which ones need special tone rings?

Are there options besides fabricating the addition of bolts and microswitches to get P/N interlock and Reverse lights? I know there's a dakota digital adapter to eliminate the GM body control module from being necessary for DBW cruise... but something for P/N/R?
 
look at my earlier post on this thread about how i hooked up the neutal safety and reverse lights. so far it has been orking very well and was inexpensive to fabricate. It would make a good fab project. i used a couple b&M shifter micro switches. dbw cruise seams to be tied right into the throttle pedal with a plug in harness and a module. I haven't crossed that bridge yet. I did use a corvette pedal purchased from speartech and with a simple flat plate bolted to existing holes if the firewall had a place to bolt the pedal without modifying it.
As far as i can tell you can buy the trans separately as long as you have it connected to the wiring harness for programming. What i mean is that the trans ecm is built into the trans harness in the oil pan and can only be programmed through the obdII plug hence it needs to be connected to the data bus. the 6l80e and 6l90e use the same plug on the trans so I don't think it would matter winch trans you use. The proble would be finding an adapter for the 90e. THe 6l trans only work with the genIV engines . The 6l have all the speed sensors built right into them. nothing external because their wiring harness is all internal. Mine shifts great with no codes or hunting. I am not sure what tune pacific fab put in there but it shifts really nice
 
use the same plug on the trans so I don't think it would matter winch trans you use. The proble would be finding an adapter for the 90e.

According to Mark's 4wd site the 6LXX adapter works for 80 and 90E.. though they say the 90E is 35mm longer so you need to move the transfer case back. Since I'm not using the Marks motor mounts I'd consider moving the engine forward, personally.. should cut down on firewall modifications and from what I'm seeing there is also room between the engine accessories and radiator. I may not know enough about oilpan and tierod/frame crossmember clearance, though..

6L80E to LandCruiser 4-speed auto HF2A transfer case
 

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