Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (20 Viewers)

[gahi]

I'm using the stock "p" series gm pump that came on my 2013 avalanche engine. pretty much the same pump that's been used for years. I did rebend the return line slightly to clear the steering box. It really wasn't a big deal just tweaked it a little tighter to the pump. I used an o ring to an #6 adapter on the pump and an inverted flare to an #6 adaptor on the box and connected the two with 36 an high pressure power steering hose. The teflon stuff with the stainless braid and field attachable aeroquip fittings. The steering works just like stock.

Do you remember what size the inverted flare fittings were at the steering box?

 

[bloc]

IIRC M16-1.5

but double check that

 

[JeepinPete]

Either way, it gives options, and personally I really like the idea of reusing as much of the existing wiring as possible.

No doubt that is the way to do things. A home mechanic cannot do better than the millions spent by the OEMs to make reliable electrical systems.

 

[Squad1]

Do you remember what size the inverted flare fittings were at the steering box?

I believe it was a 16mm x 1.5mm inverted flare.

 

[Squad1]

Do you remember what size the inverted flare fittings were at the steering box?

That was supposed to say Aeroquip #6 AN power steering hose

 

[Squad1]

I chose to lay the GM transmission and DS O2 sensor harness parallel to the Toyota transfer case wiring.. for which toyota installed a large waterproof plug. I could have eliminated this and spliced/soldered everything but there is plenty of room, any splice/solder might not be quite as durable as factory toyota, and this connector is well waterproofed. So it stayed. Also visible is my joining of the oil pressure sender circuits. The gray/purple one is GM, the black and white ones and plastic box (diode) are for the toyota sender. I basically just copied the shielded setup toyota used with some shielded wire out of the toyota harness. This will run along the MAF wiring then drop down to the area of the AC comp clutch wiring and ED1 connector into the toyota front clip harness.

One important note about the transfer wiring.. in stripping the unused toyota transmission wiring a couple ground wires are eliminated, and these are necessary for some of the transfer case functions. Make sure you find a ground for these. The GM harness happened to have the wires I needed, but they'd be easy to overlook and whether those wires are so easily available is highly dependent upon each individual wiring setup

View attachment 1430352
View attachment 1430353
ECM end. Pink wires go to the (now wired) new fuse block. Coiled stuff is for throttle/BCM/GMLAN. Gray round connector is my primary method of integrating tach/power/MIL into the factory front clip harness and fuse block. There is now another connector with large gauge wire parallel to the round gray one. I'll get more pictures but I decided to use the factory toyota block for the 2 relays I needed.. fuel pump and pwr trn. The old EFI Main relay (and fuse) is now fuel pump, triggered by one of the circuits in the round connector. In addition I added a relay exactly like the EFI Main to a blank spot in the box for Pwr Trn. This higher-current circuit goes through the other connector I mentioned then to the fuse block wired into all of the pink wires.


View attachment 1430354

One (IMO) clever thing I did is repurpose existing wires in the toyota harness. For instance.. the black/red wire on AM1 from the ignition switch goes through the body harness into the front clip harness via EA2 connector.. then on to the coil. I don't need that coil wire anymore. Now it is the Ign switched +12v for the Gm ECM and TCM. Each of those circuits needed fuses.. so they were added to the toyota block. This used up all of the available fuse space in the toyota box, so I did the rest of the fusing in a waterproof block made by littelfuse. More details on that later.

The toyota Red and red/yellow wires from the toyota EFI Main relay take a similar path to the area of the toyota ECM. One is now a tach signal.. which will get joined (through a SGI-8 to make up for 8-cylinders) with the stock tach wire from the toyota ECM to the cluster. The other is now the MIL. This minimizes the number of wires that need to be added to the engine harness across the engine bay, and reduces required trickery at IH1/2.

The white/black wire that went from the toyota ignitor to the coil isn't used.. so it is now moved to take +12v from what is now the fuel pump relay in the stock toyota block, through EA2, where it was joined with the red/black full-voltage wire under the DS hood strut to the stock toyota fuel-pump relay.

Hopefully when I get the BCM in I'll be able to run the alternator on two wires from the ECM.. if that's the case I pick up a few more potential circuits through EA2 that aren't used (and a spot in the block) for other accessories to be added without running new wires all over the place.

View attachment 1430355

Said round connector is what came off the toyota cruise control module. Fully waterproofed.

The seven wires are as follows:
+12v IGN to ECM
+12v IGN to TCM
+12v constant to 2 circuits in secondary fuse block for ECM/TCM memory
MIL
Tach
ECM trigger for PwrTrn relay
ECM trigger for fuel pump relay

The other connector with much larger pins not shown brings +12v from PwrTrn relay to the secondary fuse block for all of the engine electronics (injectors/maf/etc)

I'll try to get pics of the modified toyota and secondary fuse blocks tomorrow

View attachment 1430356

Edit: Also, while I'm not using electric fans the trigger wires are there for them. They'd be too high-current to use the toyota or small waterproof box I got, so I have a plan for them too.. the old ABS power wires provide a convenient 60A fuse in the toyota block.. all of this is IF I end up going that way. I hope to not need them.

Your wiring efforts look great. Just curious if you have tested you park/neutral circuit yet? When I did mine ,I couldn't find any wire that was available to get a P/N ground signal from. They appeared to be all internal and or on a data bus . I copied a wiring diagram I used. I am not using a BCM (didn't see the need with my harness) thats why I did my P/N and reverse light circuits the way I did( with micro switches)
Curious if you got it to work.

 

[bloc]

Your wiring efforts look great. Just curious if you have tested you park/neutral circuit yet? When I did mine ,I couldn't find any wire that was available to get a P/N ground signal from. They appeared to be all internal and or on a data bus . I copied a wiring diagram I used. I am not using a BCM (didn't see the need with my harness) thats why I did my P/N and reverse light circuits the way I did( with micro switches)
Curious if you got it to work.

The wire is right there on your schematic.. the OG/BK running from the automatic transmission to ECM X1-1. Also in the one on LT1swap.com here: http://lt1swap.com/pictures/6Lx0 Transmission Range Signals and Driver Shift Request.gif

I just went out and verified that the wire I spliced in acted like I expect.. ground in Park and Neutral.. though it did seem a little fiddly. If you put any pressure on the shifter it would break continuity.. not sure whether that's important at all.

Just so people know what we are blabbing about.. on the factory GM install the ignition switch is very low current and has something called "discrete logic" that has a few positions sending signals to the BCM which is the brains of the whole operation. There is a high-speed communication network between the BCM/ECM/TCM that can communicate when you want to start the truck, and if the engine/transmission is happy (park/neutral is just one issue.. anti-theft is another) the BCM sends a high-speed "GMLAN" signal to the ECM to start. The ECM itself triggers the starter solenoid. Most of us are not doing things this way.. even though I am using the BCM I don't want to use the DLIS (Discrete Logic Ignition System).

But to answer your question, no I haven't got the circuit set up yet to test. Only today did I get battery/starter cables made up and turn the engine over. Still have to handle the fuel system before first start. Then exhaust & radiator hoses.. still procrastinating on finding someone to machine my water temp gauge sender. Then trans cooler lines... and LOTS more.

 

[bloc]

So I said I'd get pics and this is somehow the only one I snapped today. The installed relay and fuses are all new/repurposed.

I used parts from a spare box to add the terminals I needed.. the yellow 20 was the old "telephone" circuit which my truck didn't have installed, it now sends constant +12v to my secondary block where it splits off two 10A fuses to provide constant +12v to the ECM and TCM. the two 15s are totally new, the fused Ignition +12v to the ECM and TCM. The relay is the "PwrTrn" relay that the ECM uses to control +12v to the coils/injectors/sensors/etc. The old EFIMain relay is now the fuel pump relay, and the EFI fuse circuit is now just for the fuel pump. I plan to get a vinyl sticker made representing the new fuse block key.. or maybe I'll just get a label maker.

You can also see my new engine fuse block attached to the left on the main block.
I'll get some better pics eventually


Furthering my goal of having my truck be as many different colors as possible... My old inner fender had a bit of rust around one of the airbox mounts.. so I swapped that out with one I got for free today

I would kill for a real garage door and work bench.. as it is we only have a walk door and it has a large step so I can't even wheel my toolbox out to set things on top and organize tools as I use them. Wish list...

 

[Squad1]

The wire is right there on your schematic.. the OG/BK running from the automatic transmission to ECM X1-1. Also in the one on LT1swap.com here: http://lt1swap.com/pictures/6Lx0 Transmission Range Signals and Driver Shift Request.gif

I just went out and verified that the wire I spliced in acted like I expect.. ground in Park and Neutral.. though it did seem a little fiddly. If you put any pressure on the shifter it would break continuity.. not sure whether that's important at all.

Just so people know what we are blabbing about.. on the factory GM install the ignition switch is very low current and has something called "discrete logic" that has a few positions sending signals to the BCM which is the brains of the whole operation. There is a high-speed communication network between the BCM/ECM/TCM that can communicate when you want to start the truck, and if the engine/transmission is happy (park/neutral is just one issue.. anti-theft is another) the BCM sends a high-speed "GMLAN" signal to the ECM to start. The ECM itself triggers the starter solenoid. Most of us are not doing things this way.. even though I am using the BCM I don't want to use the DLIS (Discrete Logic Ignition System).

But to answer your question, no I haven't got the circuit set up yet to test. Only today did I get battery/starter cables made up and turn the engine over. Still have to handle the fuel system before first start. Then exhaust & radiator hoses.. still procrastinating on finding someone to machine my water temp gauge sender. Then trans cooler lines... and LOTS more.

I thought about using the OG/BK wire to trigger a relay to work as a neutral safety switch but decided against it partly because It fed a signal to the ecm and I didn't want to interfere with whatever the ecm was using it for. The other reason was that there did not appear to be a reverse signal coming out of the trans plug and I was going to have to add a switch for that anyway, so I doubled them up. I do like your idea of using that P/N signal wire if it works. I thought about adding a reverse signal wire to the trans plug and run it all the way up to a reverse light relay in my fuse box. My trans shop advised against tearing into the trans harness to do that how ever. I'll see how hard it would be if and when I have the trans pan down

 

[bloc]

I thought about using the OG/BK wire to trigger a relay to work as a neutral safety switch but decided against it partly because It fed a signal to the ecm and I didn't want to interfere with whatever the ecm was using it for. The other reason was that there did not appear to be a reverse signal coming out of the trans plug and I was going to have to add a switch for that anyway, so I doubled them up. I do like your idea of using that P/N signal wire if it works. I thought about adding a reverse signal wire to the trans plug and run it all the way up to a reverse light relay in my fuse box. My trans shop advised against tearing into the trans harness to do that how ever. I'll see how hard it would be if and when I have the trans pan down

As far as I can tell there is not a simple reverse signal coming out of the transmission like PN, so yes for that without a BCM you'd need some kind of switch on the shifter. And yes if you are going to do that PN is easy to add as well. It does appear the BCM can control reverse lights easily though, so that is my strategy on the topic.

I suspect regulations on how vehicles are built mandate a physical switch to prevent starting in drive/reverse for safety.. but reverse lights are up to the manufacturer. With the move toward more sophisticated communications between modules reverse lights and many other things like cruise control are "easier" this way. Good for GM. Not for us. Though I do think it helps make the case for what I'm doing.. and while I haven't got it all working yet I really don't think it'll be that difficult.

 

[bulhas]

i was lazy..... hahahaha I just ordered this

on top of that using my racepak I want to know what gear im in

 

[bloc]

i was lazy..... hahahaha I just ordered this

on top of that using my racepak I want to know what gear im in

Between the extra wiring and mounting bracket that doesn't seem any easier, personally.

Out of curiosity how does the racepak figure out what gear which transmission is in?

Also, I'm planning on seeing if an ultragauge/scangauge or similar can display transmission gear. I know it's possible via OBDii as that is how speartech's unit works. I've talked with scangauge and they say I'll need a unit to test it on to find out for sure

 

[bulhas]

Between the extra wiring and mounting bracket that doesn't seem any easier, personally.

Out of curiosity how does the racepak figure out what gear which transmission is in?

Also, I'm planning on seeing if an ultragauge/scangauge or similar can display transmission gear. I know it's possible via OBDii as that is how speartech's unit works. I've talked with scangauge and they say I'll need a unit to test it on to find out for sure

this is less wiring for me, I dont need to pull wires to the trans for the PnP as this will be mounted inside the cab, so to the dash, and than to my start wire on the pcm for the starter relay to activate!

racepak is all seperate inputs another plus for me to use this, as now I dont need build a decoder to use the discrete programming off the factory PnP switch

 

[bloc]

I haven't seen much discussion amongst cruiser people on EFILive vs HPTuners. Has anyone used both?

I am still trying to decide, and am leaning HPTuners pro setup. One potentially important factor for me is the tune repository. To get the fast idle for my L92 I'm going to need to find an LY6 ECM program that has the fast idle (UF3) RPO. Without buying hpt I can't get into their repository to see if one is there though..

Either way it got me thinking some people here might have input on the merits of each.

 

[alia176]

WTH is Racepack?

 

[scottryana]

It is a company that makes digital dashes.

WTH is Racepack?

 

[alia176]

Man, you guys are all sosphisticated and s***!!!

 

[Squad1]

I found this while contemplating whether to modify or swap out my Gen IV alternator. I think I will modify mine as I already own it and am currently stuck with it fixed at 13.8V. The article details how to modify a DR44 pwm type alternator with a "conventional" regulator. I know there is at least 1 person on here who has done this.

Gen IV Swap -- Alternator Wiring - TriFive.com, 1955 Chevy 1956 chevy 1957 Chevy Forum , Talk about your 55 chevy 56 chevy 57 chevy - Belair , 210, 150 sedans , Nomads and Trucks, Research, Free Tech Advice

 

[bloc]

I'm reading that HPTuners allows you to modify an alternator table without needing the BCM or 4-wire conversion.

 

[Squad1]

I'll have to get on the hp tuners site and forum and dig around