8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)

[bloc]

The toyota VSS has +12v power and ground, then the pulsed signal. That signal only goes to the speedometer, where the signal is processed then sent on to the cruise computer, toyota ECU, Diff lock ECU, and if it's a 93-94 the TCU.

Depending on how you did your wiring you may have removed the power wire from the IH1/IL1 connector.. circuit is in the following diagram. For some reason the pin # is cut off of the yellow wire in the IL1 connector.. it is pin 6 on a 97 LX. Pin 5 on a 94 LC. Any other models you'll need to consult your EWD

Which electronic locker? the engine/transmission harness shouldn't have anything to do with the front or rear axles. If you are talking about CDL then that should be bundled with all of the other transfer case sensors...

 

[Lionsgarage]

@bloc the late (2013) 5.3 vvt (LC9) Silverado pan clear the pinion flange and driveline with some trimming of the ribs on the side of the sump. (I have no lift yet and have trimmed the blob off of the bell housing and believe I'm close at full jounce to tapping the driveline on the bell.
Flywheel is still 1/2" away tho.
I'll post pics soon. Firewall is relieved, OE gm mounts, remote (early motorhome or big truck eaton remote p.S. reservoir for extra steering box clearance but I think it would have fit without it

 

[bloc]

@bloc the late (2013) 5.3 vvt (LC9) Silverado pan clear the pinion flange and driveline with some trimming of the ribs on the side of the sump. (I have no lift yet and have trimmed the blob off of the bell housing and believe I'm close at full jounce to tapping the driveline on the bell.
Flywheel is still 1/2" away tho.
I'll post pics soon. Firewall is relieved, OE gm mounts, remote (early motorhome or big truck eaton remote p.S. reservoir for extra steering box clearance but I think it would have fit without it

How is clearance to the tie rod when springs are fully compressed?

 

[Squad1]

I guess I' ve got two wiring questions

The speed sensor at the back of the TC seems to have a 3 pin plug. What goes where to connect to my OEM speedo in my dash? The pinouts only seem to have one wire into the dash.

Vortec Swap - Pin Out Sheets


Second question:

Has anybody re-wired in the electronic locker. Got pin out ?

I made no changes to the factory speed sensor or lockers other that adding the center diff lock switch to the dash. Factory speedo works great. I take some of that back, I did add a dakota digital speed sensor correction box inline to correct speedo. This has nothing to do with the drivetrain swap however. I did it to get my speedo correct with 4.10's and 315 tires. There is one wire that runs from the speed sensor to the gauge . You are correct in that. The sensor in the tcase does have 3 wires going to it
Go to alldatadiy and get a subscription to your year L/c. It will cost you $16.95 and is money well spent. You can print out every wiring diagram made for these trucks if you want

 

[Squad1]

@bloc the late (2013) 5.3 vvt (LC9) Silverado pan clear the pinion flange and driveline with some trimming of the ribs on the side of the sump. (I have no lift yet and have trimmed the blob off of the bell housing and believe I'm close at full jounce to tapping the driveline on the bell.
Flywheel is still 1/2" away tho.
I'll post pics soon. Firewall is relieved, OE gm mounts, remote (early motorhome or big truck eaton remote p.S. reservoir for extra steering box clearance but I think it would have fit without it

View attachment 1418171

View attachment 1418172

View attachment 1418173

That looks great, very similar to mine 2013 LC9/6L80E

 

[Lionsgarage]

I will post pics of the clearance once I get flywheel covers built and installed.
I'll pull the front springs and set it on the stops. I may have to extend the stops to make sure nothing hits.
I hope to save from lifting it in the end. It's much higher at this point but need to get the nose back on and radiator and other fluids full Etc.

 

[bloc]

I was going to wait but I'm too excited.. have to post.

Looks like I will be able to get the BCM programmed to use the Cruise switches for an adjustable fast idle. IMO that's reason enough to utilize the BCM.. "free" TUTD/cruise/tow-haul and (very) easy reverse lights are all icing on the cake.

On wiring.. I won't be able to get everything into the stock toyota fuse block but I am going to fit both necessary relays (PwrTrn and FuelPump) into existing slots using Toyota relays, and 3 of the 9 fused circuits will fit too. Everything should be modular and disconnect easily.. all significant changes to the toyota wiring will be on the front clip harness near the fuse block.. and I'm even reusing other wires passing through existing connectors to get signals like Tach and MIL to the places they need to be. I'll be adding one 10-pin connector to get the GM harness working with the toyota harness.. plus running water temp gauge and all of the transfer case wiring into the existing firewall pass-through.

Another note is that the 6L80E does have provisions for a Park/Neutral interlock, making the microswitch setup unnecessary. It is low-current though, so I'll be using that circuit to control a relay that will interrupt the start signal wire near IH1/IL1. I suspect that the BCM can somewhat easily be used to control the park/neutral interlock as well but it might add an element of complication (ECM controlled starter relay, and probably 2 DPDT relays to mimic the GM DLIS circuits) that I'd rather not bother with in the bigger picture of my wiring.

Still trying to find a 6-fuse block I like (splash/dustproof, preferably bussed, not complete overkill (I love the cooper-bussman stuff but I don't need 20 positions and using this block for light/aux circuits would complicate things further)) then it's off to the races with the harness integration.

Obviously I'll post pics of all this stuff as I get it going.

For now a little dipstick-tech though.. Left is the LS3 dipstick in it's tube, right is the H3 setup. GM clearly likes keeping the overall oil level lower in the LS3. Maybe because of the potential for high-G cornering?

I haven't got the pan back to confirm axle clearance but the plan is to use the LS3 pan with the H3 dipstick. It'll just mean even more oil in the sump, I guess. The LS3 dipstick tube won't clear the Dirty-Dingo motor mount plates.. seems it curves into the block much more closely for the tighter LS3 headers. The H3 tube hit the edge of the mount plate slightly so I'll try to tweak it enough to avoid contact and eventual rub-through.

 

[bloc]

Got the corvette pedal mounted today, 3/16" plate steel, uses stock pedal mounts, as well as one of the stock throttle cable mounting bolt locations to add stiffness.

The bar sticking off to the left is to add rigidity if I find the pedal mount moves around too much. It is lined up with the brake booster bracket and the plan is to drill/tap it for a long 8/1.25 bolt that I can run against the bracket and put a little tension on. This should allow me to have it pre-tensioned, and avoid any vibration.. without drilling into the brake hardware for another mounting point.

Here you can also see that I cut the bottom off the corvette pedal and welded the stock landcruiser throttle pedal on. The angle of the pedal itself was much better. probably because of the much higher seating position.

HUGE advantage to the corvette pedal.. it can be bent/cut/welded.. and not too expensive.

The tube is to account for the throttle cable mounting face being on a different plane than the throttle pedal mount. Happened to have this in my bolt bucket and it was the perfect length.

Red lines were the side-to-side location of the stock pedal shaft. Not the best welds, but I was trying to avoid heating up the corvette pedal bracket too much.

The top and bottom right holes are for the M6 mounting bolts that go into the chassis. The other two are drilled/tapped for M8-1.25" bolts. The upper one doesn't have much room behind it to the firewall insulation so I couldn't weld a nut on the back. I don't think it's necessary anyway.


The corvette throttle pedal is PN 25835421 and about $80 on amazon. Note that if you are using this with a vortec (truck) engine/ECM you'll need to switch a couple pins in the wiring harness. I can't remember which, but the info is easily available online.

 

[thatcabledude]

Very nice.

 

[cme4lyt]

View attachment 1423163 View attachment 1423164 View attachment 1423165 Yesterday I picked up a dead 01 Camaro project motor, 2001 LS1 5.7L freshly built from a 70k mile salvage as a reliable street cruiser, standard bore, performance pistons, ARP rod bolts, cam and a rebuilt set of Z06 Corvette heads with springs to match the new cam, I got the original 01 computer and harness but I bought an 04 4L80e 4x4 tranny with the right flex plate and torque converter to mate to the LS1, also got the Camaro exhaust manifolds,
I chose this motor because the build was done and the older LS1 car platform had the accessories in a nice location for the 80, also it comes with a throttle body so I can use my stock pedal and modified cable, the motor was built to overcome the original shortcomings of the LS1 platform and will have less modern electrical pitfalls to traverse, the shallow design oil pan and shorter car intake are also a plus to me, since I wanted a throttle body, I would have had to put a car style water pump and intake on anyway, the newer truck water pump pipe comes up, the older car style water pipe comes forward, seems to me that this rebuilt motor was my best option for an LS swap in the 80, Totally new to the LS swap tech, so any input is much appreciated! Getting ready to pull the 1ZFE so need to buy adapters and motor mounts, radiator, fan shroud, shifter mods, redo harness and computer, also need to decide exactly where to locate the 5.7/4L80e in order to make the least amount of compromises, plan on using my stock case and electric lockers.

FYI, if the tranny is indeed the 4wd 4L80 version then you will need to modify the output shaft to work with the Marks Adapter piece. Lots of info online about how to do it....

Looks like a great combo you have there, best of luck in your build !

 

[cme4lyt]

Yeah, something like that ! Sounds like you have it all figured out then.

 

[bloc]

Dirty Dingo "hot rod" mounts seem to be the most recommended. That's what I used and they are great. Very customizable. Only issue is the substantial motor side of the plate contacting the dipstick tube slightly. You'll also need to cut some plates to weld to the frame.. the footprint of their frame-side legs is pretty small and would be better off welded to some steel thicker than our frame rails.

 

[bloc]

When adapting a GenIV harness most of us will end up removing quite a few wires from the ECM connectors. On the E38 ECM which is what most of the truck engines will have, the connectors are Molex type 123. More info on those connectors here: http://www.molex.com/mx_upload/family/MX123UserManual.pdf

When you remove those wires it will leave behind holes in the silicon gasket that seals the ECM connectors from the back (harness/wire side). Molex makes a part designed to insert into a retainer tray on this side that seals the holes.. it is Molex PN 34586-0001 or called "MX64 cav seal plug". I paid about $13 shipped for 50. I forget how many I needed exactly but the 10-pack wouldn't have been enough.

Here are some pics of the connector and where they go. The black pins are molded into the retainer and pop out once that position is populated with a wire. For my swap I needed to move a wire to a pin to get a tach signal my swap could use, for instance. These gray cav seals take over the job of the black pins.

Retainer pulled back. I cleaned all of the dust off before reassembly.

Fifty cav seals

A few installed. They snap in from the outside so pulling the retainer out isn't necessary, but I wanted to clean things up anyway.

All of my cav seals installed

If you pull the retainer back (again, not necessary.. even for wire removal. The connectors are very small and will pull through the gasket without damaging it) be careful when you push it back. It is pretty easy to fold one or two of the many thin wires over under it.

A video on how to take apart the other side of the connector for pin removal


I'd guess most ECMs of this generation are similar.

 

[cme4lyt]

If you read many of the V8 swap postings on MUD you will read about the issues with the Marks Adapter bracket. Most have said is doesn't line up, don't remember why, but they end up welding an adapter plate to make it line up.

If you ping RockJock82 on this forum he might explain better....since he did mine !

 

[cme4lyt]

So I'm rethinking the 4L80e choice, is there a longer tranny that helps not to relieve the firewall, and has an adapter that actually locates things where it should? Don't really want to have a six speed.

I believe all the tranny options have the same issue with the Marks Adapter, see my previous posting...

 

[bloc]

The shifter thing has been covered a lot in 4lXX conversion threads. In my case with the 6l80 and appropriate marks adapter it is located perfectly.

To address the shifter bolt pattern.. find an earlier shifter. Most likely cheap.. they rarely fail and 91-94 are getting old and lots are getting scrapped.

As to firewall relief, basically all swaps that I've seen have required some hammering to varying degrees. One potential solution would be using a 6l90 which is 35mm longer than a 6l80, AND moving the transfer case forward an inch as instructed by marks. This would get you 2.5" more room behind the engine. The problem with that is as far as I can tell all US 6l90s had a tailshaft that is too large for the marks adapter. You'd need to find the smaller tailshaft and put that into the transmission to use the marks adapter.

 

[cme4lyt]

The shifter thing has been covered a lot in 4lXX conversion threads. In my case with the 6l80 and appropriate marks adapter it is located perfectly.

To address the shifter bolt pattern.. find an earlier shifter. Most likely cheap.. they rarely fail and 91-94 are getting old and lots are getting scrapped.

As to firewall relief, basically all swaps that I've seen have required some hammering to varying degrees. One potential solution would be using a 6l90 which is 35mm longer than a 6l80, AND moving the transfer case forward an inch as instructed by marks. This would get you 2.5" more room behind the engine. The problem with that is as far as I can tell all US 6l90s had a tailshaft that is too large for the marks adapter. You'd need to find the smaller tailshaft and put that into the transmission to use the marks adapter.

My understanding is that if you use a 2wd version of the 4L65e you only have to modify the shifter plate, the tail shaft is correct for the Marks Adapter standard configuration.

 

[bloc]

In modifying tailshafts I'm only talking about 6L80/90. My 2wd 6L80 shaft had to be shortened by was correct otherwise. The 6L90 comes with a much larger 36-spline output and won't work without switching it out.

I thought I remembered reading that 2wd 4l60 AND 65 had to be shortened, but I could be wrong.

 

[bloc]

So Bloc, you did this conversion and with the Marks adapter for the six speed trannies, they've done a better job lining up the shifter with the floor??? I shy'd away from the six speed after two GMC 4x4 trucks that drove me crazy shifting into overdrive when I needed torque! Didn't want the extra electrical issues either, but I respect the ability of those who have mastered the intricacy of the six speed, and it probably shifts great once reprogrammed!

Yes to the shifter location. I assumed the odd placement on 4LXX adapters was due to a different floor position on Aussie rigs but maybe not if the 6LXX adapter is spot-on for US rigs.

And I will be incorporating "tap up tap down" shifting so it'll be in whatever gear I want. As well as have tow/haul mode for that programming when needed.

Edit: and, did your 6-spd 4x4s have larger than stock tires? If so were they regeared? If not all tranny programming goes out the window.

 

[Lionsgarage]

My 6L80 install with O.E. t/c location require shifter relocation but only about a half inch, easily handled with a piece of alum bar stock.
As for the firewall, I hammered a fair amount, but I wanted a nice bit of clearance and ease of maintenance.
I moved the right rear coil forward a bit as well.
Better to take a little time now rather than cuss it later.