Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)

[Albatross80]

...On the Interstate she slowly heats up when I get on the Interstate she is running 188-195 once on the Interstate she slowly gets hot till by the time I exit she is 215-220. I have Ron Davis radiator with his fans and all are working as they should, around town or backroad driving she always runs 188-195. ...

Where are you pulling the coolant temperature reading from? Does it ever get hotter than 220?

I get the same coolant temperature readings from my PCM via Car Scanner Pro and OBDX Pro Bluetooth dongle. If I accelerate hard I will see it go as high as you, but it will lower to 188-195 cruising. It seems to make sense since the thermostat at the bottom inlet opens at 187 and by the time it makes it through the engine it should be hotter. The PCM's water temperature sensor is just before the engine outlet; right before the coolant goes to the radiator.

 

[McDowra]

I think LS's typically run in the 210-220 range. I could me wrong, but when I Google'd where my Temps should be (2002 LQ4 6.0L), that's the range it said.

Don’t think it should with a 187 degree thermostat, but to be clear the temperature will continue to climb till I get off interstate

 

[McDowra]

Where are you pulling the coolant temperature reading from? Does it ever get hotter than 220?

I get the same coolant temperature readings from my PCM via Car Scanner Pro and OBDX Pro Bluetooth dongle. If I accelerate hard I will see it go as high as you, but it will lower to 188-195 cruising. It seems to make sense since the thermostat at the bottom inlet opens at 187 and by the time it makes it through the engine it should be hotter. The PCM's water temperature sensor is just before the engine outlet; right before the coolant goes to the radiator.

Temperature sensor is in cylinder head I believe but will double check. Temperature will keep climbing till I get off interstate

 

[Albatross80]

Temperature sensor is in cylinder head I believe but will double check. Temperature will keep climbing till I get off interstate

It sounds like you're pulling the reading from the coolant temp sensor that the PCM is using (two wire sensor at the front of the driver's side head) and getting the reading from the OBD II port using a scangauge or something similar?

If the coolant system is properly bled of air, I would look closer at the airflow through the radiator.

Can you go into detail on how the radiator fans are controlled?

 

[NeverFinis]

I am looking for some ideas on my swap. I drive it to work sometimes which includes 27 miles of interstate. On the Interstate she slowly heats up when I get on the Interstate she is running 188-195 once on the Interstate she slowly gets hot till by the time I exit she is 215-220. I have Ron Davis radiator with his fans and all are working as they should, around town or backroad driving she always runs 188-195. It runs great, isn't loosing water so I am pretty sure it is not a engine problem. I'm thinking bottom radiator hose is sucking shut but wondered if anyone would have an idea about what else it could be? View attachment 3641214

High temps at high speeds usually means a restriction in air flow across the radiator, or the radiator is too small.

Many OEM's fan shrouds have flaps that allow more air flow at highway speeds. Here is an DIY example.

 

[McDowra]

It sounds like you're pulling the reading from the coolant temp sensor that the PCM is using (two wire sensor at the front of the driver's side head) and getting the reading from the OBD II port using a scangauge or something similar?

If the coolant system is properly bled of air, I would look closer at the airflow through the radiator.

Can you go into detail on how the radiator fans are controlled?

I am using a scangauge for the temperature. Fans are turned on at 190-195 I don't know exact temperature but ecm does it. Radiator has the flaps for air flow I even bought the hood risers from solvefunction to see if they helped, don't think they did.

 

[White Stripe]

It night be how your cooling system is plumbed. If it's plumbed incorrectly you could be getting cavitation or inadequate flow. I don't know how your system is, but something you can research if you want.

 

[McDowra]

Seen where people have used the Gates 20230 for the bottom hose I am going to change to that hose to see if the problem goes away. Right now it has a off brand hose that can't get a number off of.

 

[Albatross80]

I am using a scangauge for the temperature. Fans are turned on at 190-195 I don't know exact temperature but ecm does it. Radiator has the flaps for air flow I even bought the hood risers from solvefunction to see if they helped, don't think they did.

There should be two fan speed settings. A high and a low setting. Both controlled by a separate ground wire from your ECM to the fan relays.

Without any wrenching, you could function check your fan control setup by running your engine from cold start in the driveway.

1. Let engine run in driveway from cold start.
2. Confirm the low speed setting comes on and note the temperature on the scanguage.
3. Confirm high speed setting comes on and note the temperature. (You might have to block airflow to the radiator with cardboard to get temp to rise if the low speed setting is sufficient enough to maintain coolant temp at idle speeds.)

If you're not certain that you know when each of the settings come on, I would check. My aftermarket fan relay harness had the low/high wires switched, which I didn't notice until I grounded each wire manually.

If your fans are controlled by your ECM there is also a setting that will turn off your radiator fans when your car is at a certain speed; since the car in motion will move enough air through the radiator without help of fans. This speed setting and the temperatures to activate low and high speed are all programable in your ECM.

Hood risers in theory only vent heat at very low speeds. At high speed the base of the windshield is a high pressure zone, which would cause air to be drawn into the engine bay (hence cowl induction). So at high speed the raised hood creates a higher pressure inside the engine bay, which reduces the effectiveness of air to pass through the radiator. Pressure map from an excellent flying' miata video.

Your fan shroud looks good to me, which is fundamental in the effectiveness of the fans to draw air through the radiator.

 

[thatcabledude]

It’s extremely rare that my swap hits 200°. And when it does it’s when I’m running 80mph for hours across Texas in August loaded down with AC running. In normal circumstances during a Florida summer and running 80mph it’s typically 194-197°

-Stock 80 series radiator with homemade shroud
-Stock fan clutch with fan from Express van.
-187° t-stat
-temp reading pulled from stock sensor/ECM

 

[thatcabledude]

LS3 by TLC

Dang, they took a great looking 80 and made it hideous. The swap is great though.

 

[Albatross80]

Dang, they took a great looking 80 and made it hideous. The swap is great though.

This build was commissioned by a former Eddie Bauer executive.

Edit: sorry my tone didn’t come across this was just a joke on the color scheme.

 

[thatcabledude]

This build was commissioned by a former Eddie Bauer executive.

Ahhhhhh. Now that makes sense. Lol

 

[Zero Emissions]

This build was commissioned by a former Eddie Bauer executive.

Oh thats why they picked the 2 tone just like my Eddie Bauer Bronco i had. That makes sense. The guy in the video said something but I missed it

 

[Feldrian]

I'd look at air flow in your engine bay. If it's exclusively an interstate problem at speed it sounds like the air can't get in to the front of the rad (big bumper, winch or lights blocking flow or causing a lot of turbulence) or it can't get out efficiently. My problem was the later, so i had louvers cut in the hood which significantly changed the temp in my engine bay.

I run 196 - 202 coolant temp all day long, no matter what I'm doing or what the ambient temp is. 2x 3 speed PCM fans. Stock radiator. Crate LT1. Previously I'd be up to 212 - 220 if i was on it.

 

[William839]

The 93-94 tcase shifters use a very different base from the 95+ so it's hard to make a mount that works for everyone.

I make HF2A/V shifter mounts for NV4500's. They ditch the 4 bolt base completely using any 91-97 shifter in a new billet housing that bolts to the NV4500's top shift plate.

I've been watching 80 series LS and LT swaps for awhile and haven't seen anough standardization across swaps done by individuals to feel like I could make a tcase shifter more than a handful of people could use.

Are there anymore write ups on people making these brackets ? I’ve researched a ton and can’t find much info on this part of the swap

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Are there anymore write ups on people making these brackets ? I’ve researched a ton and can’t find much info on this part of the swap

Adapter didn't come with it?

 

[PIP]

Are there anymore write ups on people making these brackets ? I’ve researched a ton and can’t find much info on this part of the swap

I make HF2AV shifter mounts for my products. I cannot comment on products from a different manufacturer. I recommend you contact them directly with your questions.

 

[White Sheep]

Now since my build is almost complete, yall have me looking at temps. Hooked up the scan gauge and my temps are high. Mostly just sitting in the driveway. I'm in the test driving phase, but when sitting in the driveway it hit 222° . When i accelerate, drive down the block its in the lower 200s. I dont think ive drove faster than 50mph yet.

I have two electric fans and they come on at thier separate temps.

 

[McDowra]

Mine is the opposite, i can idle all day long at 188, but overheat on the interstate.

Albatross80 and Feldrian has given me some great ideas on things to check and I appreciatte it​