Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (31 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Alright im goikg to do a little more digging and reading on the ls swap and see how much different it will be…

If I go this route i would go with the 5.3l 4l60e to my current Hf2a
Got two questions for those that are familiar with this kit
1. Will this work with my 92 xfercase
2. With this kit could I also use a 700r4 trans says its the same but want to make sure?

According to your link and the Mark's 4wd documentation, it will work. If you want to be sure just send an email to them, that way you have some recourse for a return/exchange if something doesn't fit.

As for the wiring, Driveway Engineer's videos and LT1swap were the main sources for information. I'm a huge proponent of pulling the drivetrain (engine + transmission) and the engine control parts (harness, computer, gas pedal, throttle body) from the same wrecked donor because you KNOW that the whole assembly worked together. Even if you don't end up using the stock GM wiring harness, going through the process of identifying/labeling the wiring and connectors goes a long way in your understanding of how it all works. If your swap goes anything like mine, you'll be diving back in to change/clean things up long after the truck starts and drives. If you end up getting the engine to start and drive using the stock stuff then all the better! "Free" OEM quality harness!
 
According to your link and the Mark's 4wd documentation, it will work. If you want to be sure just send an email to them, that way you have some recourse for a return/exchange if something doesn't fit.

As for the wiring, Driveway Engineer's videos and LT1swap were the main sources for information. I'm a huge proponent of pulling the drivetrain (engine + transmission) and the engine control parts (harness, computer, gas pedal, throttle body) from the same wrecked donor because you KNOW that the whole assembly worked together. Even if you don't end up using the stock GM wiring harness, going through the process of identifying/labeling the wiring and connectors goes a long way in your understanding of how it all works. If your swap goes anything like mine, you'll be diving back in to change/clean things up long after the truck starts and drives. If you end up getting the engine to start and drive using the stock stuff then all the better! "Free" OEM quality harness!
Thanks for the info

If I went that route I would most definately get all components from same donor vehicle….

The wiring im sure I could figure it out I am a but im also not trying to turn this thing into a year long or longer ordeal either + it will cost quite a bit more which isnt a deal breaker I dont have a set budget since I know it wont be cheap doing any swap, Id like to stay well under 10,000 more like 5-7 max which is why Im wanting to do a 350sbc 700r4 which I have available at very low cost, and wiring is not as complex even with the sniper kit then a Ls5.3 4l60e combo…
Im not looking for good fuel mileage or highway driving or anything like that…
 
Since the pandemic I've seen a couple guys, including close family, choose the old "proven" 350 over an LS swap only for it to cost a not so small fortune in parts to build a halfway decent 1950's technology engine.
In todays economy just about everything costs a small fortune and if it doesnt then its most likely junk..

Putting the budget to the side no matter the route i choose its not going to be cheap I get that. I also get why everyone does the LS swap it has just about every perk over a decent 1950’s engine.

Im sure im capable of doing it. But Im wanting to go a different route because I feel more confortable doing and have access to these type of engines already.
 
Gen III 4.8/5.3 LS engines are dirt cheap and plentiful. No one wants the 4.8, so they are even cheaper. 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 are more efficient, have more power, are cleaner running, and more robust with 6 bolt mains. It is a rare 350 with 4 bolt mains. Most have 2 bolt mains.

If money was a concern, I would choose a 4.8L over a 350 all day long. Then later, if you decide you want more power, it would be easy to throw in a bigger LS engine as they all have the same physical outside dimensions.

But you do you.
 
Gen III 4.8/5.3 LS engines are dirt cheap and plentiful. No one wants the 4.8, so they are even cheaper. 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 are more efficient, have more power, are cleaner running, and more robust with 6 bolt mains. It is a rare 350 with 4 bolt mains. Most have 2 bolt mains.

If money was a concern, I would choose a 4.8L over a 350 all day long. Then later, if you decide you want more power, it would be easy to throw in a bigger LS engine as they all have the same physical outside dimensions.

But you do you.
This.
 
Im wanting to go a different route because I feel more confortable doing and have access to these type of engines already.

img_1_1711344819709.jpg
 
Gen III 4.8/5.3 LS engines are dirt cheap and plentiful. No one wants the 4.8, so they are even cheaper. 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 are more efficient, have more power, are cleaner running, and more robust with 6 bolt mains. It is a rare 350 with 4 bolt mains. Most have 2 bolt mains.

If money was a concern, I would choose a 4.8L over a 350 all day long. Then later, if you decide you want more power, it would be easy to throw in a bigger LS engine as they all have the same physical outside dimensions.

But you do you.
What!!!!!
 
Ive been reading all information that Ive found so far on different options LS, LT, TBI, SBC , etc... And like most of you guys said most people do LS swaps so there is much more information.....
Which is the one of the reasons I posted on this thread to see If anyone had or knew where I could find some more info on TBI or 350 SBC swaps
 
Ive been reading all information that Ive found so far on different options LS, LT, TBI, SBC , etc... And like most of you guys said most people do LS swaps so there is much more information.....
Which is the one of the reasons I posted on this thread to see If anyone had or knew where I could find some more info on TBI or 350 SBC swaps
For a carbureted 350 swap you get a Marks 4l60e adapter for the tcase. The 4l60e and 700r4 are the same except the 700r4 is not electronically controlled. Bolt your 350 to the 700r4 and weld in the motor mounts. Hook up the alternator, fuel lines, remove toyota in tank pump, weld up an exhaust, and drive it.
 
Ive been reading all information that Ive found so far on different options LS, LT, TBI, SBC , etc... And like most of you guys said most people do LS swaps so there is much more information.....
Which is the one of the reasons I posted on this thread to see If anyone had or knew where I could find some more info on TBI or 350 SBC swaps

It's true this is a general V8 swap thread, but in practice it's a dumping ground for all LS swap info.

As for less spending less than $10,000: Homegirl did it for $2,200 and it looks very sorted.
 
For a carbureted 350 swap you get a Marks 4l60e adapter for the tcase. The 4l60e and 700r4 are the same except the 700r4 is not electronically controlled. Bolt your 350 to the 700r4 and weld in the motor mounts. Hook up the alternator, fuel lines, remove toyota in tank pump, weld up an exhaust, and drive it.
Correct me if Im wrong If I use the 4l60e adaptor instead of the 700r4 arnt they different lengths and wont bolt up to the stock mounting/ crossmembers
 
Correct me if Im wrong If I use the 4l60e adaptor instead of the 700r4 arnt they different lengths and wont bolt up to the stock mounting/ crossmembers
It would be hard to get a better answer to this question than from the people who make the adapter.


 
Correct me if Im wrong If I use the 4l60e adaptor instead of the 700r4 arnt they different lengths and wont bolt up to the stock mounting/ crossmembers
I forgot they have a 700r4 adapter. The 4l60e adapter comes with a spacer that's not used if you use a 700r4. So a 700r4 adapter is the same but without the spacer.
 
It would be hard to get a better answer to this question than from the people who make the adapter.


Which I have reached out to them as well still waiting on response….
 
I am looking for some ideas on my swap. I drive it to work sometimes which includes 27 miles of interstate. On the Interstate she slowly heats up when I get on the Interstate she is running 188-195 once on the Interstate she slowly gets hot till by the time I exit she is 215-220. I have Ron Davis radiator with his fans and all are working as they should, around town or backroad driving she always runs 188-195. It runs great, isn't loosing water so I am pretty sure it is not a engine problem. I'm thinking bottom radiator hose is sucking shut but wondered if anyone would have an idea about what else it could be?
IMG_8497.jpeg
 
I am looking for some ideas on my swap. I drive it to work sometimes which includes 27 miles of interstate. On the Interstate she slowly heats up when I get on the Interstate she is running 188-195 once on the Interstate she slowly gets hot till by the time I exit she is 215-220. I have Ron Davis radiator with his fans and all are working as they should, around town or backroad driving she always runs 188-195. It runs great, isn't loosing water so I am pretty sure it is not a engine problem. I'm thinking bottom radiator hose is sucking shut but wondered if anyone would have an idea about what else it could be? View attachment 3641214
I think LS's typically run in the 210-220 range. I could me wrong, but when I Google'd where my Temps should be (2002 LQ4 6.0L), that's the range it said.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom