Ill try it out this weekend. I assume that red wire also goes to your GM ecm.
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@TLC94LS Sorry, I don't check this thread often. No, the red wire is a +12V Ignition feed with an inline 470 ohm resistor. To sum up the extent of the alternator one wire circuit. I supplied a +12V Ignition with a red wire that has the 470 inline resistor, the same red wire is spliced about a foot from the alternator and connected (with another splice) to the yellow with blue strip wire near EA1, which I mentioned a few posts back. Hopefully that helps.Ill try it out this weekend. I assume that red wire also goes to your GM ecm.
Makes sense. I just left the one wore connected to the ECM. I may move on from this for now. I don’t feel like digging out an ign hot and messing with it. Thanks for the input!@TLC94LS Sorry, I don't check this thread often. No, the red wire is a +12V Ignition feed with an inline 470 ohm resistor. To sum up the extent of the alternator one wire circuit. I supplied a +12V Ignition with a red wire that has the 470 inline resistor, the same red wire is spliced about a foot from the alternator and connected (with another splice) to the yellow with blue strip wire near EA1, which I mentioned a few posts back. Hopefully that helps.
I do have vents on my hood, and hood rises. I never did a before and after for temps though. I don't think it significantly lowers temps. Mechanical fan clutch and blade may be the way to go.Anyone try louvres, did they seem to help?
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Visually - BIG DIFFERENCE. Technically - seems like a big difference as the interior cab does not get as heated after running the truck then stopping. Usually on trail I would open my hood at every stop as the interior cab of the truck would get heat soaked. Now I don't have to have everyone...forum.ih8mud.com
My limited knowledge would say that is not a splice where as (I12) would be.Thanks for the replies. Based on what you did I think this should work on my 94. All the wires were on the old alternator. Use the blue/black 12v IGN, add in the 470 ohm resistor, then splice the blue and yellow wires together. My only question is if the yellow wire needs to be spliced before or after the resistor on the 12v ign source.
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Assume you mean the blue side. The second pic is it running with AC on.When running does the suction side drop way down and cut off on low pressure
Those pressures are almost equal not supposed to be like that . I can tell you I start off with 2 of the small cans you can buy at local hardware store. Is the compressor engaging the high side red should be way higher in pressure than that . There are some variables to this. I do my own ac stuff and home hvac.Assume you mean the blue side. The second pic is it running with AC on.
Thanks. Oddly enough in WA you can’t buy the cans. But we have no emissions requirements. So go figure. The pics are backwards. The 1st pic was with the AC running. I did check the clutch. I watched prob 10 or so YT videos to diagnose before coming here. I assume the system is low and it may have a leak. I have a buddy that is a mechanic who has offered to let me use their machine to evac the system and test it. So I guess that’s the next step.Oh and not hardware store auto parts store.
What’s your channelIf you search you’ll find that easy, CEL is little bit more tricky, Gm puts out 12v I believe and Toyota needs a ground or the other way. Look at my YouTube videos. I show all of that.