8x Series V8 Swaps (13 Viewers)

[Feldrian]

Did you buy that adapter? I mean if you did and you can’t use it. I’m just down the road...I think I found a LQ9. So I could make that happen. But then also part of me says can I do this swap without the adapter?

you mentioned atlas. Those guys are Spendy but is it really that much more for an Atlas vs the Marks adapter?

Tor had a Mark's on the shelf and determined it didn't fit. He's in the middle of creating a cool solution for the 8-speed that I'm sure I'll get to post about here at some point in the next few months.

If you're thinking of swapping the whole package let me know what you find a right hand drop NP205 in ... and I'll buy one too. It'll be nice to have on the shelf for when I have a bad day and decide tons with Rockwell knuckles, coil overs and a 3 link front end are a good idea.

 

[250below10]

Hey guys, rookie question from someone that just started researching and hopes to one day do the swap.
Seeing that the most "complex" part about the swap is the wiring integration, if one were to use aftermarket gauges like the Dakota Digital and use one of the OBD II interface and the gear position sensor , would that "simplify" the process?
TIA

 

[thatcabledude]

Hey guys, rookie question from someone that just started researching and hopes to one day do the swap.
Seeing that the most "complex" part about the swap is the wiring integration, if one were to use aftermarket gauges like the Dakota Digital and use one of the OBD II interface and the gear position sensor , would that "simplify" the process?
TIA

IMO, not really. The gauge integration is incredibly easy.

Fuel gauge-- untouched
Speedo-- untouched
Voltage-- untouched
Water temp-- toyota sensor retained, wiring untouched (other than rerouted)
Oil pressure-- toyota sensor retained, wiring untouched (other than rerouted)
Tachometer-- 1 wire ran from GM ecm into a converter 1 wire from it to gauge.

Position indicator-- not difficult, but do you really even need it?

 

[250below10]

IMO, not really. The gauge integration is incredibly easy.

Fuel gauge-- untouched
Speedo-- untouched
Voltage-- untouched
Water temp-- toyota sensor retained, wiring untouched (other than rerouted)
Oil pressure-- toyota sensor retained, wiring untouched (other than rerouted)
Tachometer-- 1 wire ran from GM ecm into a converter 1 wire from it to gauge.

Position indicator-- not difficult, but do you really even need it?

Nice, this is good news!
And how would you go about the activation of the reverse lights?

 

[thatcabledude]

Nice, this is good news!
And how would you go about the activation of the reverse lights?

I’m not sure about these much newer transmissions, but the 4l60 and 80 have a “output” from their position switch on the side of the trans. For example pin F:

 

[Stoshu]

Nice, this is good news!
And how would you go about the activation of the reverse lights?

If using a 6L80E, you'll need to get a module that picks up the canbus signal and generates a +12V signal for the reverse lights. This is one of the options, but there's other choices out there too.

6L80E - 6L90E Reverse Lamp Module

6L80E - 6L90E Reverse Lamp Signal Module: Most newer transmissions are computer controled and do not have any type of external mode switch. All the data is transmitted on the CANbus to the other computers. While this may be a great solution for the OEM manufactures it creates a issue when your...

www.rpmextreme.com

Saw a couple swaps on other forums that utilized limit switches to generate a signal, but that looked fragile and complicated to me.

 

[thatcabledude]

 

[250below10]

IMO, not really. The gauge integration is incredibly easy.

Fuel gauge-- untouched
Speedo-- untouched
Voltage-- untouched
Water temp-- toyota sensor retained, wiring untouched (other than rerouted)
Oil pressure-- toyota sensor retained, wiring untouched (other than rerouted)
Tachometer-- 1 wire ran from GM ecm into a converter 1 wire from it to gauge.

Position indicator-- not difficult, but do you really even need it?

Another question came up if you dont mind me picking your brain.
So, the signal for Oil pressure and water temp goes direct from the engine to the gauge, correct? If that is the case, doesnt the GM ecm needs this info too?

 

[JohnnyFish]

Another question came up if you dont mind me picking your brain.
So, the signal for Oil pressure and water temp goes direct from the engine to the gauge, correct? If that is the case, doesnt the GM ecm needs this info too?

You'll run two senders for each signal. The stock LS senders connected to the ECU, and a second that drive the gauges.

 

[250below10]

You'll run two senders for each signal. The stock LS senders connected to the ECU, and a second that drive the gauges.

Gotcha, by running two senders you mean the same sensor sending signal to the ECU and gauges, or 2 different sensors?
I appreciate the help and apologize for the basic questions!

 

[JohnnyFish]

Gotcha, by running two senders you mean the same sensor sending signal to the ECU and gauges, or 2 different sensors?
I appreciate the help and apologize for the basic questions!

The stock oil pressure and water temp sensors are connected to the ECU.

A toyota oil pressure sensor with a thread adapter will drive the oil pressure gauge. Same deal with water temp, though my memory's a little foggy there.

8x Series V8 Swaps

aeromotive pump Aeromotive Stealth Electric Fuel Pumps 11540 i cant hear other than when the vehicle starts and isnt running im also the crazy bastard that has a second pump in the system with a 1/2" line plumbed out for future use and now a surge tank/pump ill be putting in not to mention...

forum.ih8mud.com

8x Series V8 Swaps

this is also my concern am I choking it down, the diesel guys have found the need, had a really good chat with Dustin today and it uses a dodge cummins factory filter which is a plus for me, as they can push out 350-400 on the stock filters and diesels use 30% more air than a gas engine on top...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[250below10]

The stock oil pressure and water temp sensors are connected to the ECU.

A toyota oil pressure sensor with a thread adapter will drive the oil pressure gauge. Same deal with water temp, though my memory's a little foggy there.

8x Series V8 Swaps

aeromotive pump Aeromotive Stealth Electric Fuel Pumps 11540 i cant hear other than when the vehicle starts and isnt running im also the crazy bastard that has a second pump in the system with a 1/2" line plumbed out for future use and now a surge tank/pump ill be putting in not to mention...

forum.ih8mud.com

8x Series V8 Swaps

this is also my concern am I choking it down, the diesel guys have found the need, had a really good chat with Dustin today and it uses a dodge cummins factory filter which is a plus for me, as they can push out 350-400 on the stock filters and diesels use 30% more air than a gas engine on top...

forum.ih8mud.com

Awesome! Thank you!

 

[Stoshu]

Gotcha, by running two senders you mean the same sensor sending signal to the ECU and gauges, or 2 different sensors?
I appreciate the help and apologize for the basic questions!

There are a few options to get signals to the factory gauges. Wit's End sells an OEM Toyota water temp sending unit that is turned down and re-threaded for the LS port on the cylinder head. This is super easy and plugs directly into the original Toyota harness to the temp gauge.

Modified Toyota Temp Sender for Modern GM V8 Swaps into an 80 Series

Modified Toyota Temp Sender for Modern GM V8 Swaps into an 80 Series (MTS-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

For oil pressure you just use the OEM Toyota sending unit and adapt it to the fitting size on the LS motor. Only hang up is that the thread pitch is 1/8 BSP, which is harder to find adapters for. I went with this solution from JTR Stealth, as it utilizes the stock oil pressure port behind the intake on the LS and both sending units thread right in to it. The compression fitting allows you to index it where it fits best between the intake and firewall.

Oil Pressure Sending Unit Adaptor Toyota FJ40/FJ60 LX engine swaps

The Toyota FJ40 LX oil pressure sending unit Adaptor allows installing the FJ-40, FJ60 oil pressure sending unit on the LSX engine block, while retaining the stock GM oil pressure sender. The Toyota FJ oil pressure sending unit uses a 1/8 BSP (British Pipe Thread). The stock GM sensor uses a...

jagsthatrun.com

I'm sure there are a bunch of other ways to get the same results.

 

[250below10]

There are a few options to get signals to the factory gauges. Wit's End sells an OEM Toyota water temp sending unit that is turned down and re-threaded for the LS port on the cylinder head. This is super easy and plugs directly into the original Toyota harness to the temp gauge.

Modified Toyota Temp Sender for Modern GM V8 Swaps into an 80 Series

Modified Toyota Temp Sender for Modern GM V8 Swaps into an 80 Series (MTS-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

For oil pressure you just use the OEM Toyota sending unit and adapt it to the fitting size on the LS motor. Only hang up is that the thread pitch is 1/8 BSP, which is harder to find adapters for. I went with this solution from JTR Stealth, as it utilizes the stock oil pressure port behind the intake on the LS and both sending units thread right in to it. The compression fitting allows you to index it where it fits best between the intake and firewall.

Oil Pressure Sending Unit Adaptor Toyota FJ40/FJ60 LX engine swaps

The Toyota FJ40 LX oil pressure sending unit Adaptor allows installing the FJ-40, FJ60 oil pressure sending unit on the LSX engine block, while retaining the stock GM oil pressure sender. The Toyota FJ oil pressure sending unit uses a 1/8 BSP (British Pipe Thread). The stock GM sensor uses a...

jagsthatrun.com

I'm sure there are a bunch of other ways to get the same results.

This is really good info! Thank you

 

[masong]

So... here's where I ask the tough question.

Does anyone have any regrets? I'm not talking regretting the swap, but is there anything you wish you'd done differently? Anything you would have added? @White Stripe mentioned wishing they'd added some heat shielding to the outeside of the firewall/tunnel I believe. Anything else?
How many have added a oil cooler? Should I use both the in radiator cooler and additional cooler for the Transmission(mine came this way from the dealer) or should I use one of those for engine oil? Do I need a Power Steering cooler?

 

[thatcabledude]

So... here's where I ask the tough question.

Does anyone have any regrets? I'm not talking regretting the swap, but is there anything you wish you'd done differently? Anything you would have added? @White Stripe mentioned wishing they'd added some heat shielding to the outeside of the firewall/tunnel I believe. Anything else?
How many have added a oil cooler? Should I use both the in radiator cooler and additional cooler for the Transmission(mine came this way from the dealer) or should I use one of those for engine oil? Do I need a Power Steering cooler?

It was me who mentioned the quality heat shielding on the lower firewall/in the tunnel. That’s my only regret. The only time that it’s noticeable is when I’ve been driving down the highway for a long period and crack the window at highway speed. It’s like the heat is drawn out from behind the dash and onto my legs. Close the window and it’s gone. -No it’s not the steering shaft seal lol.

SmalI thing I’d change:

I like the perception of “raw power” stiff motor mounts give, but I wish I had used a OEM rubber of some sort. (I think you have that covered) It really only a minor annoyance for a second when the A/C kicks on.

My opinion on the transmission cooler: I would definitely keep the trans “cooler” that is in the radiator. I look at it more as a “temp stabilizer”. I bypassed it on a vehicle years ago and it took a while longer for the trans fluid to reach the temp required to shift to O/D. I think you would definitely want it as far north you are.

IMO, you definitely need some sort of power steering cooler. I recently installed one of those Derale heat sink cylinder style ones.

 

[masong]

It was me who mentioned the quality heat shielding on the lower firewall/in the tunnel. That’s my only regret. The only time that it’s noticeable is when I’ve been driving down the highway for a long period and crack the window at highway speed. It’s like the heat is drawn out from behind the dash and onto my legs. Close the window and it’s gone. -No it’s not the steering shaft seal lol.

SmalI thing I’d change:

I like the perception of “raw power” stiff motor mounts give, but I wish I had used a OEM rubber of some sort. (I think you have that covered) It really only a minor annoyance for a second when the A/C kicks on.

My opinion on the transmission cooler: I would definitely keep the trans “cooler” that is in the radiator. I look at it more as a “temp stabilizer”. I bypassed it on a vehicle years ago and it took a while longer for the trans fluid to reach the temp required to shift to O/D. I think you would definitely want it as far north you are.

IMO, you definitely need some sort of power steering cooler. I recently installed one of those Derale heat sink cylinder style ones.

Lol my bad- reading so many posts lately it all runs together. Been reading about some of the paint coatings contains ceramic beads for that, I just don’t really like the idea of the adhesive backed stuff(I feel like I’m making a place for moisture to accumulate).
I’ve seen the Derale heat sink style. Seems like they are popular here.

 

[EricG]

Gotcha, by running two senders you mean the same sensor sending signal to the ECU and gauges, or 2 different sensors?
I appreciate the help and apologize for the basic questions!

FWIW, the Toyota and GM temp sensors have very similar response near the temperature range of interest (8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/page-95#post-12724834). Both cylinder heads are set up to receive a temperature sensor, so I'm simply using a second GM sensor in the PS cylinder head. Stock gauge reads right about where it always did.

 

[White Stripe]

Im installing a engine oil cooler, but I tow with mine up mountain passes. However it should help keep the motor cooler overall as well. The more factory feel you can make it the more enjoyable to drive long term. This takes more time to do. I probably would only do 1.75" pipes going into a single 3" pipe if I were to do the exhaust again. Dual 2.5" to 3" is pretty tight, and with cats its even more tight. I can't run anything but stiff motor mounts, not enough clearance to let the motor flex much at all. Also I should have beefed up significantly the amount of heat shielding in the transmission tunnel. I lot of heat settles their.

 

[EricG]

Im installing a engine oil cooler, but I tow with mine up mountain passes. However it should help keep the motor cooler overall as well. The more factory feel you can make it the more enjoyable to drive long term. This takes more time to do. I probably would only do 1.75" pipes going into a single 3" pipe if I were to do the exhaust again. Dual 2.5" to 3" is pretty tight, and with cats its even more tight. I can't run anything but stiff motor mounts, not enough clearance to let the motor flex much at all. Also I should have beefed up significantly the amount of heat shielding in the transmission tunnel. I lot of heat settles their.

Huh ... that was one of my complaints with the 1FZ - the center console got so hot. Was hoping this would be better in that respect.