I had this thought last weekend on the AZbDR. I tagged Phil hoping he will see this and chime in.
Builds 86 4runner build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
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Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
very nice build.
quick question, did the 31's go in with stock suspension and all? wanting to run 31's on my new '89 but dont really want to mess with anything as DD
quick question, did the 31's go in with stock suspension and all? wanting to run 31's on my new '89 but dont really want to mess with anything as DD
- Thread starter
- #163
The only thing I did was 1” lift blocks in the rear to level out the skinner sag.
- Thread starter
- #164
Got about 5k on the 3RZ swap. I give it a water pump gasket up.
- Thread starter
- #165
Went ahead and made a new channel from some .120. Welded one edge to a chunk of .25 I-beam and worked it over with a hammer. Cut the tracks off the old channel and welded them to the new one. Siliconed some rubber in, put in the glass and worked the channel with welding clamp vise grips until it was tight. It ain’t pretty or perfect, but it holds the glass and goes up and down.
- Thread starter
- #166
All that and I changed direction again. I came into a clean frame 88 v6 truck that’s worth saving. I went around and around about parting a cleanish running rig or selling it to fund the new build, but ended up trading the 3rz set up for a 3rd gen 5 speed truck and trading the 3rd gen roller for t-100 parts needed to make the swap work. The 86 will donate just about everything else
I started pulling the drivetrain today.
I’ll see if anyone wants a patched up 86 shell when I’m done. Hopefully everything good can live on.
I started pulling the drivetrain today.
I’ll see if anyone wants a patched up 86 shell when I’m done. Hopefully everything good can live on.
I may need some interior parts from the '86 when you get to that point.
- Thread starter
- #169
86 is all pulled apart
88 is all pulled apart
97 drive train is out
97 R150 needs an adapter to put a gear drive case on it. ORS wants $400 for a marlin adapter that requires an output shaft swap. AA seems to have one that has an adapter coupler for $340. T100 chain drive case from an auto does not fit. Auto would fit, and I think I can get the PCM and harness with the T100 A340f, but I think I want to stay manual.
Gonna keep the gray 88 interior. The brown dash pad is uncracked, so I got some vinyl dye. Duplicolor dark gray is too light, but close enough since I bought enough to do everything. Otherwise you get clean spots, and we can’t have that. I did the center console and I’m happy with the color and coverage.
Neither truck has a good DS A pillar cover. The gray one is missing altogether. The brown one was cracked badly. The local Parts Plus had a clearance cart with a couple of pillar gauge pods they wanted $3 each for. Some careful heat gun action and a lot of clamps and they fit tight, cover the cracks and strengthen the whole mess. Imma spend some time with filler to try and see if I can cover the seams and get the grain pattern close.
3.4 had a bunch of leaks. High mileage and plugged PCV. I was a greasy mess for a couple of days. Lots of time at the parts washer and blasting cabinet. All the parts are clean, but waiting on Amazon and Rock Auto to get me parts. Timing belt looked OK but had last been done about 160k ago. Oil pump housing has antifreeze crusties on it from a water pump at some point. Had a completely separated motor mount. Nothing unusual or unexpected. I haven’t plastigauged the rods and mains and cam bearings yet, but it ran strong.
Black top has a really nice gray interior. White top has perfect L trim. Gotta decide what to switch there.
Keeping me busy during lockdown.
88 is all pulled apart
97 drive train is out
97 R150 needs an adapter to put a gear drive case on it. ORS wants $400 for a marlin adapter that requires an output shaft swap. AA seems to have one that has an adapter coupler for $340. T100 chain drive case from an auto does not fit. Auto would fit, and I think I can get the PCM and harness with the T100 A340f, but I think I want to stay manual.
Gonna keep the gray 88 interior. The brown dash pad is uncracked, so I got some vinyl dye. Duplicolor dark gray is too light, but close enough since I bought enough to do everything. Otherwise you get clean spots, and we can’t have that. I did the center console and I’m happy with the color and coverage.
Neither truck has a good DS A pillar cover. The gray one is missing altogether. The brown one was cracked badly. The local Parts Plus had a clearance cart with a couple of pillar gauge pods they wanted $3 each for. Some careful heat gun action and a lot of clamps and they fit tight, cover the cracks and strengthen the whole mess. Imma spend some time with filler to try and see if I can cover the seams and get the grain pattern close.
3.4 had a bunch of leaks. High mileage and plugged PCV. I was a greasy mess for a couple of days. Lots of time at the parts washer and blasting cabinet. All the parts are clean, but waiting on Amazon and Rock Auto to get me parts. Timing belt looked OK but had last been done about 160k ago. Oil pump housing has antifreeze crusties on it from a water pump at some point. Had a completely separated motor mount. Nothing unusual or unexpected. I haven’t plastigauged the rods and mains and cam bearings yet, but it ran strong.
Black top has a really nice gray interior. White top has perfect L trim. Gotta decide what to switch there.
Keeping me busy during lockdown.
- Thread starter
- #170
Dyed the center console. Was brown, now gray. Still have a tan teq tshirt pad on top.
Dyed the gauge surround so it matches the dash pad I have to dye because it’s brown. Found the starts of a couple of cracks in the brown dash pad so those are glued and should be good for dye tomorrow. Pulled the cracked gray dash too. I hate pulling the far right vent even more than I hate the center bolt
It looks like the 88 dash loom is different being an auto truck. Imma have to use some 86 loom for the clutch switch and clutch bypass switch.
Timing belt, front cover seal and cam seals came today so I could put the cam sprockets and oil pump back on. Waiting on water pump and belt tensioner.
Waiting on black wrinkle coat paint to show up for intake and V/Cs. On the hunt for a cheap electric oven for exhaust manifold paint.
Dyed the gauge surround so it matches the dash pad I have to dye because it’s brown. Found the starts of a couple of cracks in the brown dash pad so those are glued and should be good for dye tomorrow. Pulled the cracked gray dash too. I hate pulling the far right vent even more than I hate the center bolt
It looks like the 88 dash loom is different being an auto truck. Imma have to use some 86 loom for the clutch switch and clutch bypass switch.
Timing belt, front cover seal and cam seals came today so I could put the cam sprockets and oil pump back on. Waiting on water pump and belt tensioner.
Waiting on black wrinkle coat paint to show up for intake and V/Cs. On the hunt for a cheap electric oven for exhaust manifold paint.
GEEZ... did you pluck that engine off the beach after the Exxon Valdez spill? WOW what a mess! Looks great now.
- Thread starter
- #172
Thanks. Looks even better in wrinkle black paint.
The valve cover seals were hard as a rock and split. Front and rear mains were leaking pretty good. PCV was plugged. Kept everything from rusting.
Frame springs axles, and gumby are POR15ed.
Engine bay is cleaned and painted. 3rd gen booster and master installed.
Paint is bought. Going with original 147 silver.
The valve cover seals were hard as a rock and split. Front and rear mains were leaking pretty good. PCV was plugged. Kept everything from rusting.
Frame springs axles, and gumby are POR15ed.
Engine bay is cleaned and painted. 3rd gen booster and master installed.
Paint is bought. Going with original 147 silver.
- Thread starter
- #173
- Thread starter
- #174
POR-15 on the frame,
Axle from the 86
New fuel pressure, return and vent lines
New brake lines
New brake hoses
97 3.4l with new water pump, timing belt and resealed
T-100 oil pan and pick up and dipstick
T-100 A340f and j shift passenger drop transfer.
Axle from the 86
New fuel pressure, return and vent lines
New brake lines
New brake hoses
97 3.4l with new water pump, timing belt and resealed
T-100 oil pan and pick up and dipstick
T-100 A340f and j shift passenger drop transfer.
- Thread starter
- #175
The tale of trading the R150 for the 340 is a familiar one.
Had to find a adapter.
Marlin makes, but doesn’t.
Other vendors get from Marlin so can’t
TG has a copy. Way more expensive and customer service experience makes me throw phone.
Came up with a different solution
Had to find a adapter.
Marlin makes, but doesn’t.
Other vendors get from Marlin so can’t
TG has a copy. Way more expensive and customer service experience makes me throw phone.
Came up with a different solution
- Thread starter
- #176
For anybody thinking about a 3.4 swap start with a whole T100 and a 3.0 1st gen.
I built the crossover from looking at the stickies thread on Yotatech.
Kept the cat from the 3rd gen. O2s May have to be moved, but they clear the torsion bar with a little pipe tweakage.
The stock cross member is super easy to modify
The driveshaft from the T100 fit in front and the one from the 86 fit in back.
3.0 motor mounts are supposed to be shorter, but the ones I bought were the same as the old 3.4.
The 3rd gen battery tray still fits great on the driver side of the 1st gen. Just gotta drill out the spot welds.
I built the crossover from looking at the stickies thread on Yotatech.
Kept the cat from the 3rd gen. O2s May have to be moved, but they clear the torsion bar with a little pipe tweakage.
The stock cross member is super easy to modify
The driveshaft from the T100 fit in front and the one from the 86 fit in back.
3.0 motor mounts are supposed to be shorter, but the ones I bought were the same as the old 3.4.
The 3rd gen battery tray still fits great on the driver side of the 1st gen. Just gotta drill out the spot welds.
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- Thread starter
- #177
White uncut goyim fenders are blocked down
Mystery hood blocked down. It’s not from the 88. That one had a scoop. It is OEM and was silver once, so I’m using it.
Using the silver doors. I repaired the dents on the ds, and had to replace the rear corner of the ps. All primered up and blocked down.
White tail gate was in better shape, but the silver truck had a great glass channel. All ready for paint too.
Since I’m not changing colors and don’t have to do jams or edges except on the gate, I’m going to paint everything back on the truck, I think. Everything is gone stay off until I’m ready.
I’m gonna go back and do the bedsides later. I’m wasting summer now.
Mystery hood blocked down. It’s not from the 88. That one had a scoop. It is OEM and was silver once, so I’m using it.
Using the silver doors. I repaired the dents on the ds, and had to replace the rear corner of the ps. All primered up and blocked down.
White tail gate was in better shape, but the silver truck had a great glass channel. All ready for paint too.
Since I’m not changing colors and don’t have to do jams or edges except on the gate, I’m going to paint everything back on the truck, I think. Everything is gone stay off until I’m ready.
I’m gonna go back and do the bedsides later. I’m wasting summer now.
Gums,
So you are putting in a 3.4 in the Runner? How goes the great northern woods?
SS in TN
My 80 has almost 400K on it and still purring.
So you are putting in a 3.4 in the Runner? How goes the great northern woods?
SS in TN
My 80 has almost 400K on it and still purring.
- Thread starter
- #179
The great north woods is great. Wish I did the move long ago
Putting a new frame, body, 3.4 and auto in the 4skinner.
Putting a new frame, body, 3.4 and auto in the 4skinner.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
just curious, instead of doing all that work why not find another 4runner body? A second gen maybe?
