Builds 86 4runner build (1 Viewer)

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Just a couple of test drives. I went to drive it to work and it didn’t want to start. Gonna scan the codes and the data and see what’s what.

I like it more better that the 22r. It’s not super fast. It is modern acceptable, where the 22re wasn’t to me.

My other vehicles are a 10 tundo, a 14 F6B Goldwing, and a 400 hp fj45, so ymmv.
 
Well, crap. Hard start is because the ECT is reading -40c. Probably open. Either it’s not plugged in all the way or the sensor is dead. I’ll back probe the pcm to make sure it’s not wiring because there’s a lot of solder joints and I’m not unplugging that thing any more than I have to. It’s in a miserable place.
 
Confirmed the ECT was bad. I had a couple of resistors around from making the O2 emulator. Stuck one in the plug and the value on the scan tool went from -40C to -20C, so clearly, the refV and signal were both working out to the plug. I ordered a new sensor, but didn't want to pull the motor back out to change it.
The 3RZ has two coolant jacket plugs just forward of the oil filter. One is a large plug with a 14mm thread. The other is a block drain with about a 10mm thread. The new sensor threaded right in the block drain. I extended the wires for the sensor plug and it works great.

for searches: 3rz ECT relocation

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Drove it the 20 miles to work yesterday afternoon. Drove it in again this morning.
Exhaust leak from the manifold flange. It's on a hoist now cooling off.
downstream O2 is reading 0V and popped a heater circuit code. Probably have the wires messed up. For reference: Bosch O2 sensor wiring - 2 whites are the heater, gray is ground, black is signal.
LTFT is reading high. About 16. I suspect the exhaust leak before the O2. Hopefully, that clears up. So far only the B1S2 HO2S heater code is the only code.
I drilled out the holes on the 22RE fan and used it with the 22RE radiator and shroud. It was hitting on the top arc of the shroud. The 2000 4runner shroud has a removable arc on the top half. I took that off. cut the top arc out of the 22RE shroud. epoxyed the 3rz arc in place. Looks acceptable. Works well. Temp stays right at 89C
Pulls much better at any RPM. Lots less rowing to get it up and down hills. Just way nicer to drive.
 
I drilled out the holes on the 22RE fan and used it with the 22RE radiator and shroud.

I think you mentioned this before, and it has me confused. On mine, the 22RE fan fits the 3RZ clutch, though I haven't been able to measure the height of the clutch yet to see if they are different. Which clutch are you using?
 
I think you mentioned this before, and it has me confused. On mine, the 22RE fan fits the 3RZ clutch, though I haven't been able to measure the height of the clutch yet to see if they are different. Which clutch are you using?

The 22RE clutch. It didn't look like the smaller fan would fit on the bigger clutch.
 
Umm, I have a fan that I thought was from a boneyard 22RE. It fit the 3RZ clutch. Now I'm wondering what I have.
 
Finally got the interior all buttoned up. Fit the PCM in the stock location under the kick panel. Wired up the emulator so it works right. Scan tool says its working good. I'll have to see if the PCM kicks the light on. Finished putting the dash back together from the heater core fiasco. Needed to put a gasket between my turbo type v-flanges. Still need to replace the round gaskets between the manifold and collector again. Parts are supposed to be here today, but I generally don't trust USPS to do the Sunday delivery thing.
 
Once things settle out for a bit, I’d be grateful to hear about mpg. My 22re gets 19 mpg around town, but I’m tired of the anemic highway performance. I’ve been window shopping for a donor for about 6 months.
 
first tank was 20 mpg running fat because of the exhaust leak. Highway performance is greatly improved. Accelerates to 75 with ease. holds 75 (MI speed limit) on hills without downshifting. It has options at 75 the 22re didn't have, like the ability to pass someone. All around it's just more like a modern car. Like a 3rz 3rd gen without the extra 450 lbs. I imagine with a soft top or no top, it'd be better yet.

I had two codes last I checked. P0100 MAF signal. MAF works fine. Must have an intermittent drop out of signal, although it doesn't glitch or run poorly. I did solder every wire to the engine harness twice, so its possible theres a bad solder joint. The other code is EGR flow too high. I need to hook it up to a better scan tool so I can monitor the temp sensor and command the EGR at the same time.
 
first tank was 20 mpg running fat because of the exhaust leak. Highway performance is greatly improved. Accelerates to 75 with ease. holds 75 (MI speed limit) on hills without downshifting. It has options at 75 the 22re didn't have, like the ability to pass someone. All around it's just more like a modern car. Like a 3rz 3rd gen without the extra 450 lbs. I imagine with a soft top or no top, it'd be better yet.

I had two codes last I checked. P0100 MAF signal. MAF works fine. Must have an intermittent drop out of signal, although it doesn't glitch or run poorly. I did solder every wire to the engine harness twice, so its possible theres a bad solder joint. The other code is EGR flow too high. I need to hook it up to a better scan tool so I can monitor the temp sensor and command the EGR at the same time.

That is awesome news. I was guessing/hoping it would be similar mpg. I just need to get off my lazy a$$ and search for a donor. My Napa parts guy bought his sister's wrecked Tacoma for $1000. I doubt I'll get that lucky.
 
Gums, Nice Job! I am going to take a few pictures of mine soon. I got the frame on for the Canback, have the top at Upholstery Shop, he is putting in new "glass". He is also resewing everything, stitching is rotten on top.
 
1000 miles on the 3rz. Runs great. No problems.

Good News. It would be very nice to pass at 75 mph.

1st Generations are a blast to drive....

Taking the hard top off makes it extremely light in the rear end.
 
Cool swap. I Have all the stuff to do my 3RZ myself. Hope to be starting in a few weeks. I am curious to see how you fit your exhaust in there with the IFS/torsion bars and what not.
 
Its tight to the passenger side firewall at the flange. Runs down next to the torsion bar, above the trans crossmemebr, then makes a right turn, passes under the rear driveshaft flange. Another right angle turn to the muffler in the stockish location. Like Ocho's without the cats.
 

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