Builds 79 FJ 40 Rebuild (2 Viewers)

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fjc-man said:
Not gonna make any up travel difference, but I think they are upside down.
Click to expand...
I’ve found conflicting information on that but then there’s this

IMG_8482.webp
 
Before I brake anything else

Removing the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arm. The end “joint” does not thread into the knuckle arm correct? I should be able to hear it up and hammer it out?
 
Stevens79FJ40 said:
Before I brake anything else

Removing the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arm. The end “joint” does not thread into the knuckle arm correct? I should be able to hear it up and hammer it out?
Click to expand...
It does NOT thread in but you will likely find that a proper separation tool will be much easier. Even the pickle fork if you aren’t trying to save anything.

They rarely “hammer out” that easily.
 
Stevens79FJ40 said:
Before I brake anything else

Removing the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arm. The end “joint” does not thread into the knuckle arm correct? I should be able to hear it up and hammer it out?
Click to expand...
Pickle or tie rod separator. Don't hammer on it.
 
Stevens79FJ40 said:
Before I brake anything else

Removing the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arm. The end “joint” does not thread into the knuckle arm correct? I should be able to hear it up and hammer it out?
Click to expand...

It is a press fit tapered joint.

Are you trying to keep the boot or does it need replacing? If you don't need to keep the boot, you could use a pickle fork to separate. Heat up the knuckle a bit. It usually leaves some marks.

Keeping the boot? Flip the castle nut over and wind it down until its flush with tie rod, heat up the knuckle, and smack the nut dead center to separate. Last resort as this can easily damage things if you don't have good aim.

Or just go to Orielly's and rent their separator tool.
 
I got a ball joint separator from HF (easy to carry in trail tool bag too) - worked well except trying to get the center link arm off the center link bracket (great time to rebuild that and drag link too IMO).

Can rent from O'Reilly too - free if you return the tools.
 
I gotta pickle fork somewhere, I never use it. It's easier to find a hammer. Tapered joints will release with a shock. Smack the female portion of the steering arm. I screw the nut on a little bit leaving a slight gap so I can witness that the joint is loose and the tie rod doesn't just drop. It will protect the threads if your going to reuse the tre. It might take a couple of clean blows. Don't pound down on the threaded stud or the tre ball.

20250107_202845.webp
 
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pb4ugo said:
I gotta pickle fork somewhere, I never use it. It's easier to find a hammer. Tapered joints will release with a shock. Smack the female portion of the steering arm. I screw the nut on a little bit leaving a slight gap so I can witness that the joint is loose and the tie rod doesn't just drop. It will protect the threads if your going to reuse the tre. It might take a couple of clean blows. Don't pound down on the threaded stud or the tre ball.

View attachment 3810775
Click to expand...
This ^ everytime.
 
Thanks for the insight! Hopefully I’ll get the last one out in the next day or two, sand paint the linkage and reinstall with new joints. Then knuckle rebuild
 
3_puppies said:
top left is the fuel line pickup assembly
bottom middle is for the fuel level sending unit
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Okay. I’m excited to get the body back on but need to sort out this fuel situation. Finally got the new tank. Sending units are easy to find. The fuel pickup is another story. I don’t think I can salvage the original, so much rust. Any thoughts on alternative solution? Am I missing some obvious source or keyword search. I found this with the part number 77206 but seems to be discontinued. Planning on reusing the electric pump from PO.

The answers i’m finding on similar pests are, find a part out, make your own…

😬

IMG_8549.webp
 
If you're planning on using an electric fuel pump, the pickup should be available from the same manufacturer, or shoud be one of the manufacturer's recommendations. There is no reason to obsess over OEM parts if you don't have an OEM system.
 
deleted
 
Stevens79FJ40 said:
Okay. I’m excited to get the body back on but need to sort out this fuel situation. Finally got the new tank. Sending units are easy to find. The fuel pickup is another story. I don’t think I can salvage the original, so much rust. Any thoughts on alternative solution? Am I missing some obvious source or keyword search. I found this with the part number 77206 but seems to be discontinued. Planning on reusing the electric pump from PO.

The answers i’m finding on similar pests are, find a part out, make your own…

😬

View attachment 3816386
Click to expand...
I tried looking all over for alternative with mine recently - gave up. How rusty - my was bad too but cleaned up nicely. DM or post a picture of it.

EDIT: post pict of what mine was like

IMG_9638.jpg
 
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I don’t think you’re familiar with a Japanese supplier called tosshin.com but their site shows 19.86 usd and the part number is 77240-60050 for the pickup. You could reach out to them and have them verify stock.
 
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