Builds 76 Project Silver Back

[SMG]

Did a little work tonight. Installed my custom U.S. Navy steering wheel button.

Also, install a LED shift warning light.

 

[DTSkyCop]

You are an artist... Nice work! Subscribed for future progress...

 

[David70FJ40]

Navy? What part? I was a Seabee.

Looking forward to see where this build goes.

 

[SMG]

Navy? What part? I was a Seabee.

Looking forward to see where this build goes.

P-3 Orion's. Sub killers.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Did a little work tonight. Installed my custom U.S. Navy steering wheel button.

Also, install a LED shift warning light.

View attachment 1370069
View attachment 1370071

Man that dash looks good. I really like those Dakota digital gauges.

 

[David70FJ40]

P-3 Orion's. Sub killers.

Only saw one, in Bermuda. Buzzed the bay where we were on a water taxi. Great sight!

 

[SMG]

Finally got around to working on my telescoping steering shaft.

Parts,

Cutting the Toyota shaft to length.
Measured it over and over before I made the cut.

Truing the cut on my 1936 9" Southbend Lathe.

Machining the double D for the U-joint.

 

[SMG]

Test fit is good!

 

[65swb45]

Steve

What's the angle on your relay rod with that steering box location?

 

[SMG]

Steve

What's the angle on your relay rod with that steering box location?

Mark,

I just left for a soccer tournament for my kid and won't be back until the weekend.

Where should I measure the angle you are talking about?

Are you thinking that the box needs to be more level with the ground? (Angled up too much?).

Unfortunately, this Saginaw conversion was already complete by the previous owner. I did however make some improvements by adding sleeves inside the frame rail and the beefy doubler plate around the big hole cut out.

I thought about cutting the whole plate off and redoing it all together to try and get the box/pitman arm more level with the ground. I know this would put my U-joint at more of an angle, but at least my pitman arm wouldn't swing in a double arc.

What do you think? Should I just wait and see how it steers?

Thanks
Steve

 

[jim land]

my box is located like your and my pitman arm is too short (5.5") , with this position i need 6.5" - 7" to get the drag link parallel to the tie rod , so i think its better to push the box location more in the crossmember if your pitman arm is short

 

[65swb45]

my box is located like your and my pitman arm is too short (5.5") , with this position i need 6.5" - 7" to get the drag link parallel to the tie rod , so i think its better to push the box location more in the crossmember if your pitman arm is short

That's what I was getting at. Bump steer is caused by insufficient drop as well as placing the outer end of the pitman arm too far forward of the main steering rod. Custom pitman arms can bridge the gap, but their length substantially quickens the steering ratio.

 

[jim land]

or it could work if he push the front axle forward by turning the leaf spring 180 deg

 

[65swb45]

(

or it could work if he push the front axle forward by turning the leaf spring 180 deg

(Sound of snowball rolling down hill) redrilling axle bumpstops, moving shock towers, opening up fender skirts... Shall I continue?

 

[jim land]

you are right Mark ,that is not the best solution , except if he want to extend the wheelbase

 

[SMG]

Now I am debating removing the Saginaw plate or putting a new plate directly on top of the current one.

If I attempt to remove the current plate it will involve a ton of cutting and grinding especially since I don't own a torch or plasma cutter anymore.

Any suggestions?

 

[White Stripe]

Well it's pretty easy to access everything now, I would probadly just cut it apart and make it perfect. U could buy a used plasma cutter and sell it when your done. Also, I would drill and tap the box for hydro assist in case u want to bolt on a ram in the future. In addition I would consider installing a cooler for the steering as well. While your making hoses.

 

[65swb45]

Steve

No matter how many boxes I install, the part I always fuss about the most is steering box placement.

Think this thru. Are you otherwise DONE with this? Wendell at over the hill made me some hi-steer arms, and I can tell you hi-steer is a huge factor in setting up steering geometry. Are you sure all aspects of your lift are final? I have 5" of lift on my 45, and that was also a factor in setting my gearbox for and aft, as well as pitch.

In the end I ended up taking the plate that I offer and trimming it to rotate 1/8" to fit my exact needs. My steering turned out 100% bitchin.

 

[65swb45]

 

[White Stripe]

(

(Sound of snowball rolling down hill) redrilling axle bumpstops, moving shock towers, opening up fender skirts... Shall I continue?

Actually since he has shackle reversal already, it wouldn't be too much of a issue to swap the springs around. Flipping the springs would move the axle 3" forward as you know. But I found that if I moved my axle back one hole on my adjustable perches so it was only 2" that the only thing I needed to do was mess with the brake hose length, and relocate the bottom shock mounts. And I think 2" forward looks better overall than 3" or even the stock position. He may need to either lengthen his driveshaft or install a driveshaft spacer however. And since with the sr the tire moves up and back so it shouldn't hit the front lip of the fender like shackle forward stretched wheelbase does.