Builds 76 Project Silver Back

[SMG]

Gents,

Thanks for all of your inputs, you both are correct. I really want this to be right.

I knew the geometry and measurements definitely are not ideal. I was planning putting this off, but knowing all along that it's just not right would eat at me.


Mark,
I really like the position of your box. It looks real close to how my first Saginaw conversion turned out before making the partial trade for this rig....Level and as far back as I can get it.

I also have a pair of 60 series Knuckles and some forged hi-steer arms waiting to go on.

This is what I will be shooting for.
3rd times a charm!! LOL!!!

White Stripe,

I have been thinking this over about the springs as well. I really like your ideal too. My only hang-up is, I'm not quite sure what the previous owner as done to the leaf packs.....What I do know is that all of the Fabrication done before my time was done quite well. (Minus the steering box!)
The axle has been cut and turned and shackle reversal with the shackle through the frame and extending the frame 1.5 inches. Whoever did the work, knew what they were doing. That is why I am scratching my head about the steering box.

Questions;

I would like to keep the Military wrap pointing forward (up front) or does it really matter?

If it does matter, can I take apart the packs and only spin around the other leafs leaving the one with the wrap?

If so, how much will this effect my castor?

I really like the ideal of extending the wheelbase a couple of inches.
I also am planning on having a new front drive shaft made up so this is a non-factor.

What are your guys thoughts?
Thanks again for your knowledge!!!!
Steve

 

[White Stripe]

Gents,

Thanks for all of your inputs, you both are correct. I really want this to be right.

I knew the geometry and measurements definitely are not ideal. I was planning putting this off, but knowing all along that it's just not right would eat at me.

Like a doctor, I now am continplating on how to attempt this surgery.

Mark,
I really like the position of your box. It looks real close to how my first Saginaw conversion turn out before making the partial trade for this rig....Level and as far back as I can get it.

I also have a pair of 60 series Knuckles and some forged hi-steer arms waiting to go on.

This is what I will be shooting for.
3rd times a charm!! LOL!!!

View attachment 1372578
View attachment 1372580

White Stripe,

I have been thinking this over about the springs as well. I really like your ideal too. My only hang-up is, I'm not quite sure what the previous owner as done to the leaf packs.....What I do know is that all of the Fabrication done before my time was done quite well. (Minus the steering box!)
The axle has been cut and turned and shackle reversal with the shackle through the frame and extending the frame 1.5 inches. Whoever did the work, knew what they were doing. That is why I am scratching my head about the steering box.

Questions;

I would like to keep the Military wrap pointing forward (up front) or does it really matter?

If it does matter, can I take apart the packs and only spin around the other leafs leaving the one with the wrap?

If so, how much will this effect my castor?

I really like the ideal of extending the wheelbase a couple of inches.
I also am planning on having a new front drive shaft made up so this is a non-factor.

What are your guys thoughts?
Thanks again for your knowledge!!!!
Steve

Its up to u about flipping the military wrap. U would have to pull that leaf off, punch a new center hole in the correct spot and then put the pack back together. If it was me personally I wouldn't do it just because I know quite a few guys Ive seen online don't bother and haven't heard much issue from it. As far as caster, I would just measure the pinion flange angle before flipping springs, and then measure again after. You can always add degree shims under the leafs to rotate the housing a little if u need too.

 

[65swb45]

Install the 60 knuckles and hi-steer and re-evaluate.

Mark

www.marksoffroad.tripod.com

 

[SMG]

Here is the link to my front leaf spring dilemma.

White stripe and Mark please chime in...

Help with my front leaf springs. (76 FJ40)

Moving my axle forward should really help with my drag link not being parallel to the axle.

Thanks for everyone's help. This forum is such a great asset!!!

 

[SMG]

I know I have another thread in regards to my front wheelbase/steering, but I wanted to document it on my build thread.

Here are some pictures showing the removal of the front axle and leafs.

My plans are to rotate the leafs 180deg
except the military wrap which will stay in the forward fixed position. This should put my wheelbase around 93.5".

 

[SMG]

Since the leafs are apart, I took the time to clean, sand, paint and ream the center bolt hole to 3/8".

 

[White Stripe]

Cool u drilled the center pin hole bigger. So what are u going to be using this rig for when your done? Think you'll wheel it much or more like a camping exploring rig?

 

[SMG]

Cool u drilled the center pin hole bigger. So what are u going to be using this rig for when your done? Think you'll wheel it much or more like a camping exploring rig?

Yes, just reamed it to 3/8". It hardly removed any material. Plan on using a 3/8 cap head bolt.

Probably more of a trail rig.....
Not much rock crawling in The arm pit of American (Indiana). Ha Ha!

I basically just want it to drive good and a occasional off road trip.

 

[SMG]

Update,

Springs back in, new beefier leaf skids, wheelbase is around 93" I am very happy with the way everything turn out.
My caster is between 3 to 3.6 degrees.
This should be perfect since I am planning on running 35" tires.

 

[SMG]

Ordered a set of Ford shock towers.

Removed stock towers.

I hope not to trim my fenders, so I
started modifying the new Ford shock towers.

I made little wedges so they would stay flat while I welded them up.

 

[65swb45]

Not seeing the logic for that particular reshape .

 

[SMG]

Not seeing the logic for that particular reshape .

Mark,

By straightening out the Ford towers, this will allow the towers to pass directly through the inner fender-well opening and it also keeps the tires from rubbing the towers during compression.

Without flattening the towers you have to cut the inner fender-well a pretty good amount.

I probably should have waited to post all of the pictures once the mod is done. Still a lot of grinding and welding to do.
I am planning on making a rear gusset to pickup the original shock tower rivet holes on top of the frame.

I'm not sure if I want to weld these on the frame. I guess it's just a matter of cutting and grinding if I decided to remove them.

Here is the link on which I based the mod on.

Any modified F shock-tower installation pics out there?

 

[65swb45]

So you will still need to open up the front of the fender skirt for the shock? And you will still need to build a secondary brace to support the straightened Ford tower? And you still have the issue of deciding how to mount the tower.

I don't see how that ends up being a better option to the one I outlined earlier.

 

[SMG]

Mark,

Keep in mind, I had to move my shocks forward due to the lengthening the front wheelbase. And no, I will not have to open up the fender skirt.
By using the Ford towers I will be able to Place them exactly where I want them.

I never said this was a better option then the ones you make. I had already ordered these before you had mentioned your fix.

 

[White Stripe]

Ive seen that mod done b4 of modding the ford tower. Seems like just a little bit of fab to make them tuck in the fenders nice. Im not sure if reinforcing the back is necessary but would add some beef. If you want to add some old school toyota badge gussets check out jester fab. I used them for my rear shock mounts. If you bolt them in would you drill 4 holes so it will bolt into the factory frame holes or drill new frame holes to use the holes the shock tower has in it already?

 

[SMG]

Ive seen that mod done b4 of modding the ford tower. Seems like just a little bit of fab to make them tuck in the fenders nice. Im not sure if reinforcing the back is necessary but would add some beef. If you want to add some old school toyota badge gussets check out jester fab. I used them for my rear shock mounts. If you bolt them in would you drill 4 holes so it will bolt into the factory frame holes or drill new frame holes to use the holes the shock tower has in it already?

From just holding them up in the fender-well, it looks as if I'll have nice even gap all away around the original opening.

I'll have to check out Jester Fab, sounds cool.

I'm still up in the air about bolting them in or welding them in. If I bolt them in, I think I will fill the holes on the towers themselves and then pick-up the original holes from the back. I really don't want to drill new holes. Either way I plan on using a gusset on the back side.

I'm starting to think I might just weld them on.

 

[White Stripe]

From just holding them up in the fender-well, it looks as if I'll have nice even gap all away around the original opening.

I'll have to check out Jester Fab, sounds cool.

I'm still up in the air about bolting them in or welding them in. If I bolt them in, I think I will fill the holes on the towers themselves and then pick-up the original holes from the back. I really don't want to drill new holes. Either way I plan on using a gusset on the back side.

I'm starting to think I might just weld them on.

FYI, your spare decals are on the way.

Oh cool thanks man!

 

[Jdc1]

The extra amount of time is worth not having to cut an OEM fender. Looks good Steve.

 

[SMG]

Straightened Ford towers look to be a good fit.

No cutting on the inner fender.

 

[SMG]

Decided I'm going to weld these on with gussets on the back side.

Cleaned up the welds, filled the mounting holes and bead blasted.

I drew up this gusset but I'm not sure if our water jet has the resolution to do it.