Builds 60 Frankenstein Build
- Thread starter CenTXFJ60
- Start date
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CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #722
A quick update on this blue 60. Typically I have a few things every year to get done prior to the Solid Axle Summit in Ouray (first week of August) and all years past I’ve been hustling at the last minute to get them done. This year is different as I started on it yesterday. Rebuilding the t-case (previous job was my first one 8 ish years ago) and needless to say it’s never held 4-low without a ratchet strap. I’m putting in all new internals which I sourced from Georg @orangefj45 which he’s been awesome to work with. I use him and Roark every chance I get. The tech support is incredible. Should have it back together once I get my next shipment. Also putting in new OME spring bushings. I learn from my mistakes and again, this was one of the first spring jobs with OME years ago. Needless to say I now know you need to grease them with polyurethane grease. You can see from the pics how much my bushings wore down in 25k mikes. I have upgraded to dobinson IMS shocks and will switch to their springs in due time. Also putting in a 12HT Aisen clutch kit. The 2F kit works but I’d not recommend it. Too much torque and I developed some pretty good clutch chatter in the 25k since I built this truck. Few more small items on my punch list and look forward to being ready for my trip a bit early 
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Looking good Jimmy!
Keep up the great work.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Keep up the great work.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Looking forward to SAS and visiting the barn in a few weeks, hopefully we can get a shot of the 60s side by side finally.
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Jimmy, can u explain to me the " clutch chatter", Never heard of that and fits a symptom I think I have.
Nice work by the way..
Nice work by the way..
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #728
Oh man!!! I don’t want to close it up. Had one last beer before I shut the doors to the shop and just spun the new gears. Everything down to the indent springs will be new. Just feels different .
And when I turned around this little dude was just watching me. Don’t think he understands
. And when I turned around this little dude was just watching me. Don’t think he understands
It's quite satisfying when you get it all back together and it just works. Are you keeping stock transfer ratios or changing low and/or high range?Oh man!!! I don’t want to close it up. Had one last beer before I shut the doors to the shop and just spun the new gears. Everything down to the indent springs will be new. Just feels different
View attachment 3360751
And when I turned around this little dude was just watching me. Don’t think he understands
View attachment 3360753
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Thanks, yeah, not the sane symptoms as mine, looks I gotta take the tranny out and check in there. Mine seems to be getting more vibrations at idle (Cold).
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #732
Ran into a snafu…went to install the new throw out bearing (bought an Aisen kit from Cruiser Outfitters) and the sleeve the bearing mounts to won’t fit. The ID on the new bearing is 48Mm and my current one has a 52.4 ID. Will figure out mamama if they put the wrong one into the kit.
I bought 3 of these kits a few months ago and this is the third install. Other two work out fine
I bought 3 of these kits a few months ago and this is the third install. Other two work out fine
Did you ever figure out the difference in the bearing style or look? I never have seen that kind you pulled out. They always looked more like the style of the smaller ID one.
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #734
The bigger bearing is from the 2F clutch I was running. But the retainer (and clutch fork) are from a 12HT. I have a handful of 12Ht forks/retainers in a tote and they are all the same as this one. The new bearing is the correct style, just can’t figure out why the ID is so much smaller on the new bearing
TLC Norway
woodwelder
ive had the same issue on 2h vs 12ht on small vs large id bearing. cant remember what i did. seem to remember that one is thicker than the other too.
@CenTXFJ60 Hey Jimmy, jumping back above the SAS prep/T-case/clutch posts you talked about the truck diving to the right under braking. Mine does the same. I've replaced: MC, both front calipers, both rotors, both sets of pads, all new extended soft lines, and flushed & bled the fluid. Perhaps I have a bunk reman caliper? They were from Napa, which people tend to talk about with respect here on Mud. I noticed on those that the bleeders tighten up ok, but the feel kind of loose when bleeding, like the threads in the calipers got "cleaned up" a little too aggressively. I've also got one-year-old rod ends on there, and did a knuckle job two weeks ago. All the suspension and bushings are new as of two weeks ago. (Damn, typing all of that out really makes me realize how far my truck has come)
I doubt it's the drums, but I will be doing new wheel cylinders and shoes back there in a few weeks as PM. Mine's an early 60 so it has the small proportioning valve bolted to the booster, which I think only delineates front-to-rear and not side to side. No valve on the rear axle.
Penny for your thoughts...
I doubt it's the drums, but I will be doing new wheel cylinders and shoes back there in a few weeks as PM. Mine's an early 60 so it has the small proportioning valve bolted to the booster, which I think only delineates front-to-rear and not side to side. No valve on the rear axle.
Penny for your thoughts...
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #738
Dam Jim…sounds like you covered everything. At least I can’t think of anything missed. So with mine it was definitely an issue with two of the pistons on one of my front calipers (can’t recall which one). Went away with the new ones I got from Oriellys (them and Napa are my go to). Did you by chance check your brake lines? I undo my soft lines and blow everything out to ensure there’s a good clean flow with the new fluid.
I installed the new softlines all around - every single one of them - when I installed the calipers and pads last summer. All four corners bleed just fine but maybe there’s junk stuck behind a piston. I only recently did the rotors when I did a knuckle job two weeks ago. No change before or after the calipers & soft lines last year, and no change before or after the rotors two weeks ago.
Truck tracks straight and true. 4* caster shims with my shackle reversal. I am not running a sway bar and I’m way up in the air, so I expect some anomalies.
